Another enjoyable video, thank you. I really like your sharpening bench. Do you have a preference for soaking or splash & go stones. Looking forward to more videos.
@kencrane9726 depends. But if I really want to enjoy myself, i tend to prefer soft soaking stones. In general if I just need to get stuff done, it's handy to have a good coarse splash and go to set you off 🤓 thanks for the comment, and hope you have a great day
That is interesting to see. I have only King 300 grit that is very good especially for the low price (but a bit small). 1k Deluxe is pretty good too, as is the 6k. None of those is the best in my collection but I could live with them easily and they are pretty affordable. I have mostly normal sized stones but with over sized MD-21 the King 300 seems so tiny, seems about similar to the 220 in your video.
I have this 220 and the deluxe 300. The 300 is a bigger stone than the 220, in all dimensions. The 220 cuts faster but it's far more friable. The 300 is harder and doesn't give up abrasive easily like the 220, which I suspect green SiC
@@AnarchAngel1 I've sometimes seen also different sizes of same King stones. For example I have a pretty small 6k that is available in larger sizes too. I think one just have to read carefully the dimensions, they're not all "standard size" like most other manufacturers have. But cheaper too, especially when smaller. Even a smaller one has a huge life time in normal home use.
@hoggif Yeah, King definitely has a way of making their stones in various sizes, which I actually like. You just have to pay attention, like the 6k comes in S-3, S-2 and S-1 being the largest. They make this small 4k that's a really good stone that I never here people talk about, probably because it's so small. I think it's called the s-45. It's hard and gives more like a 5-6k finish. The King Neo 800 is an awesome stone too. Again ST-4 is smaller and ST-2 is the large version. That stone is great for more stubborn steels, it's green SiC
Nice video ! I am interested to restore my whetstones i have 3 of them (400 , 1000 , 3000 grit) can u suggest in general what sandpaper grit is appropriate for every stone . Thank you !
@morehn these are not natural stones, but i believe it is a blend. Tanaka toishi is the supplier, and aki, shiro, suki -monogatari is the name of each stone In this series.
I have every Chosera, and like you all mine except the 10k are on the base(since 10k never came on a base) since i prefer they are a little thicker than the Pro chosera without a base. I must say the 800grit is the least favorite and least used for me. I have found the $1k to just be better everywhere from tactical feel, and feedback but i do not know how consistent they can vary in their production. Stones that really stand out in that set for me are the 400, 1k, 2k, 3k and it took awhile to break in but once it did that 5k really started to become a great stone and though its may seem like a high jump, it sets u up for the 10k perfectly. Ive used the 400 and 2k so much im on my third 400, and second 2k
Hello, I’m a huge fan of your videos. I learn a lot from you, thank you man! Now I wanna ask you a question: Do you know how to remove the plastic base from a stone? My Suehiro Rika has a glued base. In some of your videos, you said that removed the base of your new Cerax. Could you please explain how, or make a video about it? Please?
@AdriPereira76 it's pretty boring. I removed it carefully by sticking a butter-knife between the stone and the base 😅. Gotta be very careful though, because it very well may chip or even crack in the process 🤓
Hello, love your videos. They gave me lots of information and you present the topics in a very nice way, thanks. Question : I generally use some out of these : Naniwa pro 400, 800, 2000, 3000 and kitayama 8k. Wondering if buyong the Naniwa pro 5k (or Suehiro 5k) would be worthwhile adding to the collection. I used to stop often at the 3k, but since I have the 2 k it seems quite ok as a last stone. Regards, Hubrecht
@hubrechtpeeters644 Hi, and thx for the kind comment. You have a good line-up there. So if you enjoy the naniwa pro you know you won't go wring with the 5k. On the other hand, something new could also be exiting. I would recommend the suehiro rika 5k. It would fit nice in between, and is a faster, softer stone than the naniwa 5k m, if my memory serves me right :)
Hi there! thanks for the really comprehensive video! I'm surely gonna get the King 6000 now as it is in my budget. I want to know what you think about differential grit sharpening where one side is sharpened to a higher grit than the other 1000 one side and the other side is taken to 6000, I heard it does really well especially on tomato and peppers and still cuts meat smoothly
Personal preference is one thing, but steel type another. For example Morihei can feel very nice for carbon steel but for harder tempered steels quite ineffective or even like nothing happens with something like VG10, S30V and similar. It also depends on what you are doing, you don't always want the fastest speed there is. For polishing, making kasumi and what not I sometimes like to use different stones of same grit in order like a harder stone followed by a slurrier softer stone. To me 6k is a bit of odd ball. I tend to have 1k, 3-5k, 8k as most common series. I think the difference of 4k to 6k or 6k to 8k is not that big, which is why I don't have 6k for many of the stone series I have. Oh, no mention of the diamond in description. Looks like Atoma 400 that I think you've also used before. Both 140 and 400 are great for slurry and/or flattening stones.
@hoggif thx man. I totally forgot to put that In the description. It's a worn atoma 140, my fav. For flattening and working up slurry. My 400 atoma sticks a bit to theese so I use that one mostly with naturals. I got a video in the cooker about soft vs hard steel on the same stone. I got the microscope photos down, just need to film it :) and lastly about the 6k as an oddball. I would be happy to have it as a finishing stone for harder steels following a medium 1k on secondary bevels. But I do agree that most times, at least for larger surfaces I would omit the 6k grit. However the suehiro one is soft and fast and can be a great addition to a polishing progression. Thanks for commenting, good insights and valuable both for myself and whoever reads it 🤓 hope you stick around for more 😀
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 Worn atomas are great too. 400 is a bit sticky sometimes but nothing compared to 1200 that I never use. Mostly 140/400. They last well too. As a flattening stone/slurry stone and some sharpening, I got about 20 years out of my 1st Atoma 400. Still fine for slurry quite a bit slower than the new one I got. Haven't thrown it away yet. I have no suehiro 6k but if I noticed you told it's bit like 5k (Rika). Assuming that, it should be a lovely stone for a suehiro stone like me and Rika 5k works well for difficult steel types too.
Been in love with king since the start. The 1k was my first proper Japanese stone :) The s-1 6k has a lot of the features i love about the g-1 8k, just with a little more speed. Great stone overall. Thx for commenting 😁
Hi there I love your thorough and honest review! Could you do a video on the king 6k? I wanted to get the king 8k but I don't really like working with all that slurry, my choice right now is between a king 6k or 4k and I'm really leaning into the 6k but I would love to see it perform first.
@@randyarthur2942 thx for the kind comment. That is definitely a possibility. I actually got a brand new 6k king the other day that I haven't tried yet 😁
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 thank you!! Could you also do some testing regarding differential grid sharpening where one side is kept at a lower grit and the other side is brought to a high grit
@t.michaelbodine4341 thx for commenting :) it is. King stones have always given you alot of stone for your money. It's the first japanese brand I bought :) good luck on your sharpening endeavours , and don't be afraid to ask. I try to answer as much of the comments I can 😁
Dear NPC. RU-vid doesnt read your comments :) i however find them amusing. Especially since you commenting will lead you down the rabbithole and now youtube will find more content like this for you <3. keep scrolling and thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.
Can you compare the feel of the Naniwa pro 5000 to the Shapton pro 5000 ? I work mostly on the Naniwa Pro 400/800/2000/3000 and I would like to decide on on of these 5000 stones. Love your videos, they gave me plenty of infotainment. Kindest regards Hubrecht
The Naniwa will feel smother and give you just a hint of a finer result than shapton pro would. Although i generalize because i havent had the pleasure to work on the pro 5000 yet. But in general if you enjoy your other Naniwa stones, i would definately recommend you stick to what you know you like :) And thanks for leaving a comment :)
I have a very large collection of stones and I really like Shapton 220 and especially 320, sometimes even 1k. The coarse stones are very fast when you need coarse stone, one of the best ones in grit range that I've tried. 120 is not that efficient but still feels very gritty. At least my versions of 5k and up are not that good. Sure, they do the job but feedback and even power is much better on many other stones. For thinning or large flat surfaces my 5k seems to have grab/skip/grab/skip style effect. No way to get large surface running smooth on it. I've not seen many others complain about that though and my stones are well flattened several times. I'm surprised to see you like feedback on 5k. I've always found it at most average, but I prefer a stronger feedback like on Suehiros. Atomas are so great (140 or 400). I got about 20 years of use as flattening stone as a hobbyist from my first atoma. Replaced it with another Atoma.
from shapton the 320, and 1000 are the ones i use(d) the most. However since i got the Suehiro ld-21, that has taken my top spot for coarse stone. my top 1k atm is the Tsukimonogatari wich is soft as butter, or gouken kuroto from naniwa (hard). I was more surprised with the shapton 5k, its been a while since i had it out :) it did a good job. thinning though is a different beast all together, and for finer finishes i think i would rather go for a Ouka - Rika - Shiramine combo before polishing :) but i rarely do thinning though. Thanks for the comment man. keep posting, i love hearing from you!
@@lofotenknifeworks2278 I have a LD-21 too and it's great. King 300 as a cheap stone was a real surprise too, quite good. I like Tsukimonogatari too, but have so many choices for 1k grit that the best is very difficult to pick, probably some Suehiro unless I want s&go. As a hobbyist I often pick the stone that I feel like would be the style I like today.
It surprised me this time around, but i must say i have a few others tha puts it to shame ;) (they are all good stones though, and will get the job done)
Very good content and a dream setup/collection my friend, I hope i like the 180 as a material hog I just ordered one after looking at so many positive reviews yours included
Hi, thanks for your review ! I am new to this and i want to have Luxuary knives in future ! (now i only have one) my main use is for home kitchen and i want to have one stone for now ! is it okay if i go with rika 5000 ? (is it okay for 6000 or 8000?) because my use is for home and knives wont get dull !
For only one stone its a bit hard. because if you knife dulls it will take very long to sharpen on 5k only. I would look into a double stone with 1000/3000 grits. Or if you are insisting on only one i would go for Suehiro Ouka (3000) instead of the rika. A very similar stone, but a little faster :) Naniwa Aotoshi (2000) is also something to consider, although not as fast as the ouka. Even a 1000 grit stone will give you a good edge, here you can look at the Suehiro Ld 101. its an excellent stone
Just bought 1000 and 4000 Shapton glass stones. Moving up from a cheaper king stone they are leagues ahead. I probably need to buy a lower one though as I found it best to use the 1000 side of my cheap stone to get bur/ bite first as it made sharpening a lot easier( this was on an already fairly blunt knife)
Hi, your reviews have been excellent! They've really helped me in figuring out how a stone would feel like, hearing the sound they make and seeing the slurry and the feedbacks, your microphone is excellent! After getting my 1st japanese knife, a cheap one, but carbon steel, a teruhide shimomura, 4 years ago I had been using local natural stones (very hard stones, 400-6K) to sharpen it, and some other knives. I them got my 1st japanese whetstone 2.5 months ago, a King KDS 1K/6K, that I reallly like. Then a Shapton Pro 120, to thin the teruhide, that has a zero bevel, I believe. What I think of the Shapton Pro, is that while it's a fast cutting stone, but it needs to be constantly refresh. That 120, if not refresh, would polish so well as if I was using a 3-5K stone. Then a month ago, I started getting the "chosera" line, a Miyabi Toishi Pro 400, and the Aratas, 1K, 5K, and 10K. These are excellent polishers, I think that those 4 cover everything I might need. With loaded balsa strops with 20K, 30K, and 100K powder/paste,as well as a couple of blank leather strops to finish. Anyway, may ask about your spring-loaded holder? How deep is the "lips" on that one? The ones holding down the bottom edgese of the whetstone. I want to get one, it looks pretty thin. I missed out on the Naniwa holder, that looks like it's only 3mm deep, but able to hold down whetstones firmly. The case that comes with the Aratas isn't as tightly fit as the Shapton's. Thanks again for the reviews! Surely made me feel like what I've spent have been worth every penny. Keep 'em coming...
I have cheap chinese stones and they´re just not very good. They´re very soft and the grit is all over the place. Don´t expect a 6000 grit even if it says 6000. It´s not much finer than the 1000 side. For the rough work they still can be used. You can get a sharp knife using such a stone but you can get a sharp knife with almost anything.
10mm is really thin. I always felt like it could break at any moment. That´s why I glued it to a 8mm glass plate the exact size of the stone with 2k epoxy. Now can use it untill nothing is left without the fear of breaking the stone in half.
apart from the excelent technical considerations , "there is never an easy answer without having a context" is by far my takeaway from this, thanks a lot!
hi i have 2 questions 1 do you have to make a bur each of grit progression? or its only for coarse stone? 2. if the knife already not sharp do you start again from the coarse or you can start again from fine stone ?
Not a pro here, just purely my opinion: 1. bur is "dangling" material from the grinding of metal. In theory, each progression will create a bur as each progression grit will grind off some material. The more coarse the stone, the quicker the bur creation. 2. as long as the stone is harder than the knife, any stone will sharpen the knife. It is the matter of how quickly the knife will be sharpened and how mirror finished the edge becomes. Ex, it will take 20 mins to sharpen a dull knife by hand with a 18000 grit whetstone.
