Solar electrical energy from grid : 20kwh * 0.28 Euro for 146km = 3.8 cents / km (based on 28 cents/kwh) 😘 Solar own panels : 20kwh * 0.00 Euro / 146km = 0.00 Euro = 0 cents / km Solar own panels based on grid return price : 20kwh * 0.09 Euro / 146km = 1.2 cents / km (based on 9 cents return fee that you do not get because you charge car) Economical diesel powered car : 146km / 1:25 = 5.84liter * 1.60 Euro = 9.34 Euro / 146km = 6.4 cents /km (based diesel 160 euro / liter)
This is me again - 5 minuts later. One of my dreams in life would be to drive this car. It's not likely to ever happen, but it's always good to have a dream. I'm 100% sure one day that I will do this one day. Not sure which car to choose though. Thatnks for the inspo. Takk så mye! :)
pfff why these car became rarest so i don t understand this but its your car and your choice but i dont think this is funny i never want this in my golf2 gti
I would remove the 12 volt battery for winter. Then the system always stays off. I would charge the HV battery to 60%. Then you can leave the car for 6 months without any problems 👍 With 50% you are currently the best off electrochemically 👍👍😎
Hej ja absolut. En CCS kabel är redan beställd.😉 Men mest för att kunna ladda snabbare då jag redan har ett både större och kraftfullare batteri till villan. Tack för din fråga👍🏻☺️
@@flyingtools Tack för svaret. Låt oss vara med på din resa och gärna berätta hur du kommer fram till din lösning. Jag har en MG4 med V2L, man kanske ställer den några månader på sommaren och cyklar till jobbet istället så man kunde göra någon smart lösning.
Sadly I don't believe it is legal in the UK to replace a Halogen headlight bulb with a LED bulb. Some do it but switch back to OEM bulbs for inspection. It might be legal to replace the entire headlight as I have seen some Landrovers with LED headlights but I'm not sure.
Absolutely 👍🏻 I will have it as a backup battery to my existing battery if the energy price goes through the roof😉 I have 9 modules to my house so sadly I can not have them in parallel. I also like to have the extra amount of power due to the higher voltage that an extra module will give me. That’s why I whent with the id3 battery from the beginning😉 Thank you so much for your input 👍🏻👍🏻
@@andreasstromberg yes absolutely, if didn’t already have an even bigger battery to me house😅. For me this will be a down grade if so both in power and kWh. I will only use it as an emergency backup battery.
it also depends on the chemistry cause the LFP are a complete different thing. Those have nominal 3,2 V and not the 3,6 to 3,7 V But at 3,2V a LFP cell is far below the 30% SOC . My 14 kWh LFP cell battery (51,2 V nominal) running under a 1 kW load aka 20 A is around 25% but just 0,1 V difference can make a huge difference or dropping the load to 10A only cause the voltage will increase.
I am interested in your alternative lid for the PDM. I read another comment that this was basically for aesthetic reasons to match the original. I am considering this to see if I can reduce the height a little also. Did you save some height when you did this redesign, or is the high point on the domed Nissan lid the height of your new lid? The Nissan lid also has some thick honeycomb structure, whereas I guess yours is a thin sheet? Any details you can share would be useful. Steel or aluminium? Thanks.
Greetings from Finland. Always glad to see your project videos, especially solar stuff. Water heating has become interesting too since we bought a house outside of city area and there are now more options to choose from when it comes to power generation. Keep up the good work!
very cool project! If you want to squeeze the last killowatts into the storange tank, you can use a phase angle power controller. I used such a set up with a convection heater, and it's rewarding to hear the dutycycle throttle up and down as the sunshine varies. The power controller I bought can pull 30A, but it is monophase and if you are concerned about equally loading phases might not be what you want. I wrote about it on my homepage at thouters dot be, I tried to leave a comment earlier but it must have been flagged as spam due to the URL.
Hi sorry if I ask again, why do you use the lead acid mode ? And do you use the BMS of the ID3 System? You read only the U Batt upper and lower cut of voltage? Why it is not possible to use the Lithium Mode?
Hi. I use a standalone BMS so no communication goes to the inverter therefore the lead acid mode. if I set it in lead mode it will go into fault mode and complaining on BMS communication lost. I have more videos when I am building and explain the system on my channel.
One small tip, if you connect your old heating system, you maybe install a magnetic filter as well, keeps your boiler cleaner and saves your system from issues. Nice you have a boiler room to manage this all, Dutch houses are mostly to cramped to change a lot.
Great to see the project progressing. Be careful with the asbestos, the fibres are extremely dangerous regarding health problems. One suggestion woukd be to paint it with a good quality paint to seal it which minimises the risk of fibre loss. The laddomat is a great idea, it will protect your stove,tank and pipework from thermal shock which will extend the lifespan of your system. Looking forward to the next update.
Can you tweak the controller to lower the power at low rpm to reduce wheel spin? If not have you considered the Zombieverter controller. I don't have one but believe they are highly adjustable and are still being constantly updated. They also have built in control for DC charging.
@@flyingtools killing a classic car and anything electric a downgrade. Not trying to be awful towards you really though as it is a personal choice like my opinion is mine. I’m sure it goes like hell and a lot of fun, just love the feel, drive and sound of a combustion engine. Also my clutch and manual gear shift. Marmite? 🤷🏻♂️
But this is an electric version of golf called citystromer made between 1983-1993 by Vw. I have just made it more useful with the today’s standard. (Or i was forced to do it, the original drive unit was missing.) I highly respect your feelings for old fossil car, but I guess I’m the lucky one, I love both 😅 And no fossil car was destroyed.
Great work, now you'll be looking for an auto brake pedal. 🤣 I didn't bother and just pushed my clutch pedal all the way in so it's still there but I don't even see it.
I didn't realise you are using a Leaf BMS. Do you monitor it with Leafspy? It's pretty easy to connect up with a Bluetooth ODB2 dongle. I'm using a Leaf BMS with my eGolf battery pack but I cannot use it while driving due to the voltage drop between the front and rear battery boxes. I can see an issue in Leafspy at the cell which connects to the front battery box.
Yes, leaf spy it is. It seems to be sensitive with different lengths of the balance leads. It works ok for me, I which I had the 62kwh BMS though. What kind of issue do you have with your setup? How is the car behaving?
@@flyingtools My BMS is not controlling anything. I can only use it to monitor the cell voltages when the car is stationary as cell 40 (the last at the front of the car) shows very high or very low depending on whether I'm driving or charging. This is because of the voltage drop between cell 40 and 41 due to the length of cable between them even though it is 50mm2. The BMS is not designed to have long connections between the cells. I just keep an eye on the pack voltage to know if I'm close to running out of electrons.
very interesting again, and I absolutely agree to keep the asbest untouched! Here in germany we had a lot of houses insulated their roof with asbest mats. A lot of stupid people, when they were aware of the negative side effects of the basically good product started to tear apart the whole roof construction , which makes things even worse. Especially for the workers who are not working protected with proper masks an the micro fibers caused caused cancer in their lungs! Better to leave it where it is! I was also laughing about the family-friendly migration of the old hot-water tank to the new one, which gives the project more time for careful preparation! You are a really professional - it was not luch that the new connection to the old boiler fits perfectly!👍👍👍 Looking forward to thext episode!😊
great progress - even though we had made a similiar mistake, buying a heatpump cylinder with 270 L and with an additional heatexhcanger aka coil, Atlantic Explorer V4 . This can be "charged" from the oil condenser boiler but attention: vice versa it can heat up the water inside the cattle of the boiler and then it can be used to heat the house. But: the usefull SOC is from 60°C to 42°C or so and then the amount of energy being discharged is limited. Such usual heatpump boiler can use (they have usually limited run time per day = up to 14 hours) 700 Wx 14h =9800 Wh and deliver based on cop 3 to 3,5 heat in the water from 30 to 35 kWh. For the home usage = warm water we need about 10 kWh, which means 20 kWh can be transfered for heating in the spring and autumn before the oil condenser kicked in. BUT : just 1 year old and 2000€ invested it is already outdated cause we were not aware about the prices of a heatpump and that those are widely used in scandinavia, in particular norway. And they are importing from china a 12 kW heatpump for roughly 1600$ OSLO (cif, not ddp which means you have to pay customs and 25% VAT in norway and the handling and operating and shipping fees from OSLO harbor - but we choose in germany a ddp delivery to our door which is about 2000$ incl. 19% VAT or 7% VAT. This heatpump will now be added to condensed oil boiler and pumps warm water through its cattle and from there into the heating system or warm water boiler. If it gets below 0°C we will run the oil boiler only in a monovalent way and heatpump will be turned of. Same as the norwegian guys did. Unfortunatelly the Altantic heatpump cylinder is no longer needed and will be replaced by a cheap good chinese heatpump from Solar east BLN-012TC3 for 3 phase and 12 kW output or similiar BLN-008TC1 as a single phase 8 kW output atw heatpump. And it comes with modbus and the protocol has been published, also a nice 5 inch touch screen, app support and browser support important for handicapped people with limited sight or just 1 eye. Therefore we stopped the big boiler usage cause too often too much warm water inside the tank and only limited usage cause you can only heat it up to 63°C with a heatpump and roughly 40 to 43°C the discharge capability will be gone cause you need 5°C more in the source water to heat the "target" circle up. 40°C to 38° will not really work.
