My goal is to inform you about the less common aspects and features of various lawn and garden equipment, including reviews, impressions, DIY's, real world use and more! My intent is to show you questions and concerns I have when looking at a piece of equipment (or things I wonder about), and debunking or confirming some negative reviews out there. I also encourage you to ask your own questions to which I'll do my best to answer, compiled with others, in video form. Hope you enjoy!
Power Equipment: - 2013 John Deere D105 (Sold) - 2021 John Deere X580 (Traded) - 2022 John Deere X758 - 2020 Stihl FS91R Trimmer - 2021 Stihl SR200 Mistblower -1999 John Deere 724D -1980 John Deere 210
Accessories & Implements - John Deere 8Y cart (Sold) - John Deere 10PX cart - John Deere 40" thatcher (W/ two, 8" extensions) - John Deere 42" yard sweeper - John Deere spike aerator/drop spreader - Frontier Box 48" Blade - And more!!!
I bought a e100 a year ago that had 26 hours for $500. I’m very happy with it and haven’t had any issues. I use it to mow a 1/4 acre lot that’s all. A lot better than using a push mower for sure.
My brothers chain came off his. The clip that secures on broke off the nipples now needs to replace the chain can't I use a bike chain as a replacement? Or have to order one.
I bought a 730 last week and stumbled on this video. My daughters bought me the kit for Father’s Day. My holes weren’t threaded, so I bought 6 self tappers and used those instead. I appreciate all these videos you have, but they’re going to cost me more money! 😂
I would not do any of that. The motor is designed to be run with certain parts. A pre filter may restrict it, probably not be a big deal, but they don’t come from factory that way, nor would I oil anything… I used to think that was good, but a good filter will capture everything just fine.
The ripper? Well I upgraded the tractor, now I have an X758, I modded the ripper to a 3 point setup, works amazing now, can get it to weight like 360lbs now!
@JoshsGreenGarage I have a Z315E (zero-turn residential mower) and it works for me. You can also set the tow rod to the left, so the sweeper is positioned to the right, to sweep up from the discharge shute.
Yeah, I WAS going to get these - they were only $16.19/ea when you buy 2. Then I went to check out.... FORTY DOLLARS FOR SHIPPING! I'll stick with my dim bulbs.
@@JoshsGreenGarage I'm in MO, so that much for shipping something that small and light is WAY too much! I found some on Amazon, cost me $15.99, and FREE shipping, for TWO of them. Just waiting on delivery now. I'm planning on taking the headlight covers off and lining the back of the area with aluminum foil to act as a reflector. That should help throw more light forward.
Thank you! This is a great video! A lot of others skip steps, making them essentially useless. You did a nice job. I'm having issues getting my new belt on, specifically with the wheel in the middle/front that is sitting on a little metal arm. The metal piece that helps keep the belt on isn't movable like on the other wheels. How do I get the belt in? Do I have to take the little wheel off? If so, any ideas on loosening a stuck nut/screw?
Sounds like the tensioner you are having trouble with? Might have to put a socket wrench on it to pull it back to where you can put the belt on. If need be, email some pictures of your issue. Be better if I can see exactly what it is.
I'm new to your channel and I have noticed that you have added weights to your rear tires. Mo local dealer cautioned me on adding fluid or weights to my tires. They said hanging weight was the way to go. Their reason was on these smaller machines that the extra weight that the trans would have to rotate would put a strain on the system, but rolling weight was fine. Great channel by the way.
Hi Josh, good mounting demo. I've got a X739 with a 60 inch deck. I want to reiterate the importance of lifting the deck slightly to allow the blades to turn when removing and installing the drive shaft. If you don't you will fight to hang the shaft out of the way when removing the deck, as well as removing the shaft from it's hanger on install. Other than that trick, and lubing the shaft coupler (prevents the balls from seizing), the standard drive shaft is fairly easy to install. The only downside, compared to the quick connect, is you have to get down on the ground to reach up there and slide it on. On the plus side the standard shaft is simple and durable. A few extra tidbits: My model is all wheel drive so it climbs the deck well in both directions but I still find it's easier to mount in the grass to prevent deck sliding. If you turn your wheels in either direction you can pull the brush guard pin out from the side too (remove only one clip). The front deck wheels on the X700's decks are fixed skid type normally found on suspended decks. JD needs to replace them with a caster type as they will dig in a tight turn. If you cut around a crowned tree base, they we dig a circle in the ground. This is especially true with the X739 as it has a 6-8 inch turn radius (with the 60" deck). If you can afford it, buy a second deck. I usually get at minimum 15 years on the body of a well made garden tractor. I still have a cub (nearly identical to the JD X730) that is still in service after nearly 30 years. But... the decks will not last that long and you will find it nearly impossible to get a new deck in the tractors later years. The HC Decks come with the holes pre-bored for the hydraulic mulch kit. You may want to plug them so sand doesn't wear the holes larger over time. Overall the decks preform very well. They are set flat to the sides so anything the deck frame touches is getting cut. Add to this there is a raised front lip, so you have to be a little extra careful not to shave a raised surface like a sidewalk. They lift the grass very well and run fairly clean. Good discharge flow even in tall grass.
The main problem with that button-head slotted bolt is that it's very difficult to get a grip on when it's rusted. I'm in the process of replacing them with hex-socket button head stainless bolts, and getting the old rusted ones out really sucks.
I just got an x495 with the 1.1L Yanmar and the owners manual recommended a 10w40, 10w30, or 5w30 engine oil with an API rating of SM which is a gasoline oil designation which I thought was quite odd considering it’s a diesel engine…your package came with 15w40 JD diesel oil so I’m thinking I’m gonna just put some Mobile 1 Delvac 1300 15w40 that I have in hand…it would seem that engines these days are using thinner and thinner oil…most diesels these days are recommending 10w30…I was on the forums and a lot of guys are just using the T6 5w40 Synthetic and calling it a day!…
Blow your grass away from the unmode grass You're killing your mower deck by blowing all those clippings into tall grass it can't evacuate its deck You're just causing more trouble than it's worth. Always always point your shoot away from tall grass like this unless you're windrowing it, and pull that deck guard up so you can discharge further
I still have my 15 year old 10PX cart from when Lowe's used to have the free dump cart promo with purchase of a JD tractor. Gave it new wheels and tires last year, and I'm giving it some new labels this year. Can't believe what this cart costs now!
I used a new but scrapped garden hose to funnel the oil and a bar clamp to take the kink out…..still learned the hard way to have a plan for the mess that you’ll make.
Thanks so much for doing this! I was about to call a repair place when I watched this. $25 same-day Amazon purchase and my lawn sweeper is up and running again!
