@@BudChristensen sweet!! Morris Mini Motors has a NGH 38 video. They sound great. I have a 1/3.8 scale Tiger Moth kit I think I'll put mine in. Balsa USA has a nice scale hub for it. I have one for my Saito 40.
Cg for most BUSA kits is way nose heavy. a good fly able cg is on the leading edge of the lower wing and the aft limit should be by the front N strut attach point.
Bud, really glad to see you back. Have been worried about you. Hoping your fall is better than your summer. For sure, your priorities are right on. Looking forward to the build of your Ford Fliver.
All is good. The DVII just needs to be balanced and ground tested. I will hopefully by posting a new video shortly. Work is too busy and we are short handed on staff, so I need to take a break on finishing the build. I hope your summer is going well!
Bud, I don’t know how to contact you on an old post. I’m enjoying catching up on your repair of the clipped wing Taylorcraft. My question is… you go into a lot of detail with calculus and that was very helpful but seeing how meticulous you were to get the angle right, why did you not go the extra bit and make the wing 6° and Tail 5°. As detailed as you are I don’t understand why not make it to your reference material? Maybe it’s more complex than I’m thinking
Tim, the Bob Nelitz plans differed from the true TCraft plans on the angle of attack of the horizontal stabilizer. I used Taylorcraft plans to fix the issue and it allows the plane to fly level regardless of air speed. Thanks for to question and watching the restoration.
great build love the plane, I used to fly in the northern IL, McHenry area I 'm currently finishing a proctor dr 7 have you ever done the cable pull pull system, I like it it looks more scale
Just picked up an old D.VII kit that was from an estate sale last weekend so been obsessing over D.VII videos and now found this ! AWESOME !!! Totally tagging you in my build videos :)
Brilliant, light weight design. Question. What did you use on the Rudder with the hole drilled through it. Where the control rod slid through. Hope I'm making since.
If you are asking about the wire that steers thectail wheel... I used a section of nylon tube that used to be used for antenna wire back in the 27 & 72MHz radios.
Just started watching your channel. Great build! I want one of these really bad, but it would probably take me about 3 years to build one! I’ll buy this plane from you as-is! 🤓 Is this something you build to sell?
Heckdad and I did a lozenge pattern on a 47 in wingspan DVII, 5 color pattern. Didn't take too long, but we made stencils for each color based on the repeating pattern. It really isn't that difficult to do.
I built one of these back in the early 90's and loved it. I put a geared brushed RC car motor in it running on 6 cell then 7 cell Nicad. Always got funny looks at the model club because I was flying electric. Had to reinforce inside the nose with a bit of fibreglass to handle the weight of the Nicad.
Bud, if you want some 3D printed snap on covers for the wing servo wires, let me know. I can print them in black or white and you can pant them. I just email me the exact size of the strut gage of the wire.
I also have decided to use silicone extensions on both of my exhaust pipes. Because I did not want to take and have to cut slits in my cowling. This way, it allows me to work the silicone through a closed cowling more scale. I have never mixed tail to Aileron. Explain why you would mix them. I have never had any problems flying Military style. Good to see you on the scope again, bub.......
You actually correct for 'adverse yaw' by applying the rudder...full up and down movement of the aileron is fine. Trying to 'Trick' the yaw out is questionable. People who tout differential aileron, can't coordinate rudder and shouldn't be giving setup advise.
I really like the Pulse 2S LiPo batteries for my Rx and ign. Price good. They come with both a regular servo connector and en EC3. Yeah, yellow usally needs an undercoat. Flat white or silver.
@BudChristensen I have to finish the flap on the right wing. Then I can move on to the left wing. The body is 90% built but can not connect the 2 wings until I build the center section, and then put the 3 sections together. Then, I can connect and measure for level and the right angle to the body center. Then, l can cement the center section to the body permanently. It's going slow. Because I don't work on it every day. Also, because I am O.C.D. ( perfect for an engineer). I am just trying to make it as perfect as possible. I finally figured out the radio is as far as servo placement and channel placement, and it's all correct. Reading Chinese/English is hard to do. They write everything kind of goofy English!! I will tell lin. Hi, and she says hi back. I thought about calling you the other day. But, I just simply forgot to. I appreciate your photos and your information on your build. From what I can tell, very accurate work. Talk to you again!
10:21 How about we call it what it is?It's an exhaust header pipe. It looks really great.Looks like you get a really good job.Man and I bet she flies good just generally, if the plane looks like that you know a guy took.His time building it and you know it's probably gonna fly right.
Bud, I have followed all your very informative and enjoyable videos. Thanks for all the work you do to help the few builders left in this hobby. Any chance on a few words on how you sharpen your scissors?
Larry, here is the link to the video that shows how I sharpen my Fiskar Scissors. Let me know if you need anymore info! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p9ns0o2Q5qk.htmlsi=jgsW5XVDFzrly4L2
Also, not sure if you have flown a Fokker DVII before, but the ailerons are not very effective at all. They are really small for the amount of wing area they have to push. So I highly recommend for your high rate, you have as much throw as mechanically possible. You will find that you will only need a dual rate for this function and not a tri-rate. But you will see when you get some flights in.
With our modern radios there are options for wing controls. In my 1/4 D7 I am using a Graupner radio. I can bind up to 4 different RXers to it. So I put a RXer, switch and battery in the wing. This eliminates the aileron extension, which actually prove to be a bit of a pain over time. It also creates redundancy which is safer. My radio will not opperate if any unbound RXers are not turned on, so there is no chance of taking off accidentally without switching the wing on.
