Hi Mike! Thanks for the info/feedback. That's awesome! I guess the power o/p is not consistent with these boards. I have 2 boards, and both behave differently. 73.
@@scotfinch6912 Scott, thanks for your feedback. I'm glad it worked out well for you. There are many similar low budget mics out there, and I do own many although I haven't made any videos on those.
Hello, Thanks for this detailed explanation. It seems to be a good product. Maybe you mentioned it, but does this charger recognize a 20 amp circuit breaker on 120 volts. Will it give me a charging power of 1.92 kw (16 amp) or a power of 1.44 Kw (12 amp)? I would like to benefit from this little advantage of 1.92 Kw. Thanks for the info.
Hello Karl! Thanks for your feedback. Unfortunately, the answer (from what I know) is a no. It won't/can't detect your CB capacity. Also, as explained (from practical bench-test), at 120VAC, it limits the Current to about 11.1A.
Thank you for the video! What are proportions of the ingredients, not sure if you mentioned it. Also, how does your mixture compare to the reed wax you ordered? Again, thank you!
Thank you for your message. Frankly, I've forgotten the proportions I used. It's been long... It's in the video. Besides, for my later projects I was able to get usable ready to use reed-wax at a decent price, so....
Ravi, there's some tradeoff between both in terms of air/effort needed to play. However, from my experience - having tried the top end valved to this new design valve-less, the difference is not much. Matter of fact, valve-less harmonicas are easier to maintain and no issues with temperature and humidity. The experts may disagree, but to each his own. In short, go for the valve-less new version. My best wishes to you.
Thanks for your message. For the wood I used regular carpenter's glue from home Depot. It's holding up well. The reason for the rotting was water seepage...which is now taken care of. Good luck with your renovation project.
I recently ordered a USDX+ V2 that was supposed to have a battery, but it arrived without one. My big question is about the connector. I understand the issue of polarity but there are several 2-pin connectors to choose from. Can someone confirm that the VH3.96mm is the correct one? Thanks.
Yes, that is correct....but that was for my rig. Since these rigs are sold by many vendors, it's better you measure the pin pitch and type of connector used on your rig. That said, connector is not an issue for me. When needed, I just replace with whatever I have at hand. Good luck!
@@PremMenon Thanks. I did end up measuring the pin pitch (2.0mm) and it looks like for my rig I will need the PH2.0mm connector if the vendor of the radio doesn't come up with the missing battery. How is the battery secured inside the case? Double-sided tape?
@@barbaracornwell3041 To be honest, I've forgotten as it's been a while now. I do have a video showing the internals. It's one of 4-5 videos I made on that SDR. Check that out, please.
Good fix Prem. I appreciate the videos since I just bought 1975 Ibanez Concord 684 with some belly. As you did, I am humidifying with some weight on the belly and will see what happens the next few days. I like your homebuilt Bridge Doctor and may have to follow you on that well. Good bless.
@@ColinMurrayNZ Oh! That's too bad. If you Google you should find it. I don't want to make promises I may not be able to keep. I've moved ahead to (many) other projects therefore can't guarantee the schematic availability. Besides, each vendor has something different - although the same concept.
the attenuator is not accurate and varies according to the scale... in general the output is low... in yours if you measure with an analog multimeter the resistance is ohmic... to me it seems infinite
No, these units will not lift 200KG. I have basically the same ones. They may hold 200KG, but they will not lift 200KG. All these low cost units use misleading advertising. I love mine. Just have to be aware that they are nowhere near as strong as the original Viking Arm from Norway.
Thanks for your feedback. You are probably right on. After this I received a few better ones, but I guess - not 200kg, but definitely more stronger/rugged.
I have a USDX+. I thought it would RF-activate a small linear amplifier simply by jumpering the SO239 connectors with RG58 coax. Apparently not the case; it has to be PTT switched?
Pine wood is soft! The grain is weak in the direction of the force you are applying! This will fail at some point! The grain of the wood needs to be at 90 degrees for full strength !!
@@Dragunov1111 Set the current limit to 8A. It should work. Then find out the actual current drawn by your bulb. Keep in mind that such bulbs may draw higher initial current....and may draw more than the 5A "calculated" current.
Hello Heiner, thanks for your message. Essentially, the Rx port of Radioberry goes to the antenna directly although there's an antenna change over relay in-between.... because I'm using the NC contact of that relay for Rx (the usual practice). I didn't feel the need for any filtering for Rx frontend. Rx is as good (better, in fact) as most commercial rigs I own. 73.
@@PremMenon Guess, I will also do without any filtering as my antennas are small bandwidth and thus prevent overloading. Will probably only use the rx part for the time being. Congrats on that fine gorgeous looking vfo in the sturdy metal case Prem!!!
@@heinerrambold8889 Thank you, Heiner! My best wishes to you. It's just like straight into a doubly-balanced diode-ring mixer front end - as used in many homebrew rigs and some commercial rigs as well. Overloading should not be a concern. I keep the RF gain at around 5 or 6....and reduce as needed. I'm happy you checked out my ESP32 VFO I made for my army man-pack.
Up / Down / Ok / Cancel buttons probably makes a very powerful general interface that can be adapted to many many uses and functions just from having enough correct software + screen UI programming. Otherwise, using only 3 buttons, an alternative is Next / Ok / Cancel.
It is a great radio. If you install WSJT-X, you can even work digital modes. I've made a tutorial vídeo on how to setup both the Radioberry and WSJT-X for that effect. As for the build quality really depends on the manufacturer. I have a different board, and although there is nothing to write home about, the quality is pretty good. You can by an heatsink kit for the Raspberry Pi4 and apply the two biggest square heatsinks to both the AD98666 and the FPGA. Also, the holes beneath those chips should be filled with solder. That is important for grounding and for heat dissipation as well.
Thank you for your feedback, sir. Yes, now all the heatsinks are in place - including a fan - in the final phase. I've pinned the link to that video. Every day I'm having QSOs using this Radioberry. I have 2 boards. Both are different. Thanks for the suggestion on the digital modes. I'll give it a shot. 73.
Nice review, thanks. Please note that recording in mono is probably because of choosing 32kbps mp3. If you select a higher format, it might start recording in stereo.
Could you please tell me what's is the the max TX power output on the Radioberry?, some people say 4dbm or 2.5 mW, some say up to 100 mW. Couldn't find this on the internet. Thank you
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, give it a shot. My guitar had no monetary value after all these years. Just sentimental value. Had purchased it ages ago - new - when I was still struggling in life, so..... I'm happy with the repair outcome, and it's playable again....sounds good too.
My best wishes to you. It's a bit frustrating initially....to get it going. You'll then have to build the other things to make it transmit. Check out my video which shows this TRX in action (if interested). GL & 73.
how well the vocal off feature works? I noticed you skipped that and presumed that probably it didn't work that great!!! lol. It will be highly appreciated if you can add your comment about that feature.
Thanks for your message. Sorry I missed touching on that "vocal off" feature. As you correctly said, I'm skeptical about that feature. I did test it though... Just like any other run-of-the mill product offering that feature - it is not good. It cuts off the required frequency spectrum....and the track sounds horrible - to say the least.
Hi I have replaced the resistor on boath sides but I'm still getting the same lines. There is 38v on the left side but 0v on the right side resistor. Do you know what could be the problem?
hi, prem. something I didn't get ! how do you select and control the LPF for each band ? what I see is that wires of LPF go to the radioberry controller board and each band is selected by Pi Pico but the relays are 12v . by the way did manage to install your radioberry controller on on new Pi OS 6.6 or is it all based on 6.1. nice work and well done
Hello Arash, thanks for your message. Mine is the old one. Started the project in Oct/Nov 2023....so, same image. Regarding the 12V relays, it's not an issue. 12V is a common connection to all the LPF relays and the required relay pairs are grouped (negatives are wired together). The required band relays' negative gets grounded by the controller thus selecting the band.
Very nice and something I am going to do myself. I am going to use the PA and FB out of an old IC-725, well that's the idea at least. But I am trying the Radioberry now for about two weeks now without success. I just can't seem the get the software setup. I am going round in circles trying to get it working.
Thanks for your message. Yes, if you have a donor IC-725, output stage is taken care of. Even I went in circles for a while, and then succeeded. I'm sure you will figure it out too. GL and 73.
I have not removed them so I don't know if there are nuts inside (must be). Otherwise, just 2 screws holding the handle. If there are nuts on the other side, you'll have to open the case so the nuts don't fall inside. Not difficult.
Thanks for your message, and for your encouraging words. Yes, I'm working on it. This clip just shows the very basic controls when I first started. As of today the control panel is more elaborate with many functions. Just doing the finishing - metal work, linear, LPF, TRX switching, etc... Hope to post a video of the finished product soon.... probably in a week or two. GL and 73.
@@JasonViator A "Band-Aid" solution is to spray DeoxIT inside those pots. However, replacing those is not too difficult. A good temperature controlled soldering iron, a good roll of de-soldering braid, some liquid flux - and a steady hand - should do the job.
Thanks again - for your kind words. If my memory serves well, I think I got the brass sheets from a local company here in Toronto. I guess you'll also find those in Amazon and the big-box stores as well.
