I love several details about this design. To begin with, the leds. Many creators try to control the leds individually, but you used leds with a bus. I thought they were only available in led strips. This solves many problems regarding electrical and control design.
Would *Galvanized* steel wire (0.5mm diameter) be ok to use for the horizontal connections? Also is the "Silver plated copper wire" mentioned at 3:06 0.6mm & what was roughly the total amount needed? 👏🏼Thank you, Thank You! 🙏 much obliged to you!
Yes, galvanized steel would be ok but in general steel wire is difficult to solder. You definitely need solder flux suitable for electronics. Silver plated copper wire is much easier to solder. The disadvantage is copper is more soft. The vertical data lines are 0.6mm. The total length is roughly 1400mm.
A 16x16x16 cube is a real beast regarding the power consumption if the same type of LEDs are used. The total current is around 4096*0.06A=246A. Three 70A power supplies would not be enough.
@@Roby80-h1d I would seperate the LEDs in groups. Each group has its own fuse. For example if you have 32 groups: 246A/32=7.7A -> The fuses should be around 8-10A.
The SMD 0603 100nF capacitors have a voltage rating of 50VDC. For the level shifter I use a 100nF/50VDC multi layer ceramic capacitor with a spacing of 5mm.
A clear/transparent LED is more focused and has a smaller viewing angle. A frosty/milky LED diffuses the light more evenly and mixes the colors better. That's why I used frosty LEDs.
👏👏👏Simply Amazing! Your meticulous approach is just awe inspiring. I've done some projects but def still learning. When I search to order the LED's themselves, the product page says "Please note P9823F is a new version, don't mix with P9823's purchased 2022 or earlier." Were the LED's you used here the newer P9823F's? And if not & you used the older ones, does anything change as far as the wiring using the newer LED's? Again thank you, much obliged & your work is beyond inspiring, an absolute masterclass!!!
Hi, thanks your comment 🙂 I tried my best with this project.😄 My PL9823s are produced in 2022. I suggest you solder 4 wires to one of your PL9823 and connect it to your controller. That's highly recommended regardless of the manufacturing date.
This was an incredible video to watch. You are extremely talented. I've been toying with the idea of making something similar to this after seeing the Govee Hexaglide Pro kit. I'm even more keen to attempt this after watching your video. I don't have access to the tools that you have but I do have a 3D printer, so I hope I can replace some of your steps with parts that I can print myself at home. Thanks for uploading this video 🙂
Thank you for your kind comment!🙂 The most time consuming step was making the grid. Most likely I will build a very similar LED-Matrix with a 3D printed grid. But before this I will finish an ongoing project. 😃
Hello! I am trying to understand how the individual leds are controlled. Arent they all connected in series? How do you control individual leds to form complicated patterns? In my mind they could only light up one after the other?
Yes, the data pins of the LEDs are connected in series. Every LED forwards the data to the next LED. The internal data latch of the built in controller saves the data.
Nicely done. Me thinks rather than a cube you can use only 4 led deep and make it wider instead and use graphic effects to give it more 3d appearance. Just too costly for a full cube.
I think the aluminum base plate is necessary. Without the heat sink the temperature slowly increases to roughly 40°C in 30min. After 30min it gets really hot. That's why I added the heat sink. The extrusion along the edges is not for cooling. I just like the clean look, it makes it easy to mount the LED Matrix to the wall and it protects the electronic parts on the back.
Thank you! I thought a lot about the grid and the diffusor and came up with this solution. I refused to buy a 3D printer for a long time but now I can't stop printing. It is so much fun :D
@@yotudero The number of times I've thought "I really wish I could do . . . " and then remembered I can make something with a 3D printer that if it doesn't fully fit the bill of what I want, it can come awfully close is something that I have lost count of. From replacement brackets in kids toys, through statues, mounts, ducting for fans, hinges and countless other things, having a 3D printer has proven itself invaluable..
Thanks! These are the standard animations available in WLED. Just programm your controller with the WLED Firmware and select the different animations. Check the link in the description for the WLED web page and the installer web page.
This is a really great video thanks for posting. Out of curiosity what gauge size are you using to power each segment for the red, black and yellow wires (under the LED cube going to each segment) and what gauge wire are you using to come off the main power supply? Super appreciated thanks again!!!
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. Your version is one of the cleanest cube's I have seen hands down. Your instructions are also very clear. Excited to follow along to this design. Thanks again!!!
The capacitor ensures a stable power supply for the controller inside the LED. But it should work without capacitors as most LED cubes don`t have them.
Hi, I am using a Meanwell UHP-200-5 (5V/40A) as the power supply. Each LED draws 0.3W. You can have a look at my other LED Cube video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wKtEOfoG2CA.html
Very impressive ❤❤ You can also make another video using same Matrix run with WLED set on 32x32 matrix. Its matrix designs are unique and could be interesting project.
Are the heatsinks really required? Did you take any temperature measurements with and without? Thanks :) Edit: Sorry if that was a stupid question. Your craftsmanship is immaculate. I am sure you know exactly what is required.
Don't worry, of course you can ask questions :) Without the heat sinks the aluminum base plate got hot after around 30min and some LEDs stopped working. I didn't measure the temperature but the malfunctioning was the reason to use heat sinks.
Awesome project and flawless build! I'm truly amazed at the level of detail you paid attention to when building this thing. I wouldn't have had the patience to cut a thousand little foam strips.
Thanks! The foam pieces make a big difference. Without them some light comes through small gaps between the grid and the base plate and light up the neighbouring pixels.
