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We are a Hobby Shop in Long Beach California with a combined 60 plus years in the hobby. If you have questions or want to see something let us know in the comments.
5521 E. Spring St, Long Beach, CA 90808 phone: 562-425-9000
Thanks buddy.., I'm doing my shocks while watching this video. hitting pause and play as i'm doing it . I bought some shocks on Amazon, they came with NO OIL IN THEM... so take them apart before installing them. NO MATTER WHAT THE BOX SAYS...
man you talk to much. all you need to do is show the upgrades. do not give you demy life story. Simple straight to the point. ok i will not be watching your you tube any more.
Cheeseburger⁉️ I once paid $17+ for a Cheeseburger Happy Meal @ the Aiport in Chicago. I rather have upgrades, better to have it, and not need it than need it and not. 😁
I agree with most of this great advice. except having aluminum arms I haven't had any issues at all bashing the hell out this car flipping the car at 60 + on the street going off jumps and all. the plastic arm's are cheaper thats a giving BUT they broke easily and so did the bulk head and that nylon bar that connects in the front of bulk i dont know the proper term but i got aluminum arms aluminum bulk and swapped that nylon bar for a aluminum one as well and it was the best upgrade i ever did even have aluminum arms in the rear and used 4wd axles in the rear because there thicker then the 2wd ones. All of this with a sidewinder esc and 3800 kv motor lower spur gear and bigger pinion gear this slash has been a beast haven't had to replace anything since i put aluminum parts on. Aluminum is the way to go IMO 👍👍👍👍
To finish explaining how to actually measure the toe in or out (seems he forgot). Using that same toe gauge, you will put the gauge across the front where the toe gauge has points at each end that you’ll align to an exact point on each front tire (either the center line of tire or furthest edge of tread of each tire). Do this across the front, write down measurement, then turn gauge around and measure again across the back of tires (using the same exact point on tire you used on front). The toe gauge will bender the vehicle and points will now face forward for second measurement. Write down the second measurement from across the back of front tires. The difference between the two measurements is your toe (in or out). If equal (rarely), you are already at zero and can adjust from there (make adjustment on both sides equally). If the front measurement is wider (or higher) then the rear, you have toe-OUT, if the front measurement is narrower then the back, you have toe-IN. Now, using your turnbuckle wrench, you’ll adjust the steering links that run to the back side of each wheel hub, in or out a quarter turn on each side, measure again, until your distance is equal front and rear. “Equal” puts you at 0 toe. Lastly, now (assuming you want 1° of toe-out) adjust until the measurements are 1/16” wider in front measurement, then the rear measurement. Note: It’s actually a little easier to use two gauges (one across front and one across rear of front tires), so you don’t have to keep flipping gauge around and moving vehicle as much. Kinda wish he’d have finished explaining how to take the measurements, as this is a pretty important setting. He was dead-on with why it’s important and what toe in or out does, but I wouldn’t call where he left off as “self-explanatory” by any means. If you’re looking for an explanation, then you’re already past “self explanitory”. There are also (7-years later), MANY other settings that are able to be changed. Bump-steer, Ackerman, Caster, Ride height, & kpi, to name a few. RTR kits may still only have a couple adjustments, but anything else has a lot, including multiple suspension/shock adjustments, as well as dampening of both shocks and differentials. Hope this helped a little on the “toe”, it’s not as easy to explain without pics/vids. Just remember to measure using the exact same line front and rear, because the adjustments tolerances are so minimal. Using the molded line around center of tread is typically best, but nowadays there isn’t always a center line of tires, so you’ll need to go to where tread meets the sidewall, then note the difference between the measurements.
DEFINITE NEW SUBSCRIBER HERE!!! I bought a Rustler VXL & Bandit XL-5 in 2018. My son & I drove both of them maybe 1 month(too much power for his age). Been in storage since! Last month, I found em, pulled em both out, and me being a COMPLETE NOVICE, I took both apart as much as I could and detailed/cleaned them up! After 2nd battery run, the Rustler snapped the pin on the top shaft. Having zero knowledge about RC's I took to local hobby shop & watched them fix it for me. Had I found this video/channel a week ago...I'm sure I could have done it! Great camera visual & explanation here! I'll be stopping back by for more How To's... Thanks guys😎💪
I have a question I'm building a kyosho gt2 it was a 1/10 scale nitro buggy at one point in time I'm having trouble with the front dog bone I was wondering if there is a difference between the dog bones now the GT2 chassis that I have was a nitro chassis it was two-speed now I changed it to a single speed now I don't know the diameter of the stock dog bone that the chassis came with but is there anyway you can get back to me and help me out and maybe I can order that special dog bone from you and one more thing now it is all electric
The company says to store the battery from 40-60% so it will last more , and never near empty.. How do we know the % of charge of the battery then if we can only measure per cell voltage ? Is a linear connection between max-min Voltage so we can calculate the % of charge in that simple way?
