You're welcome Wayne and thank you for the nice note. GL with your own projects!

Thanks again GP. It's really all about using the right materials, tried techniques and a lot of practice. I appreciate your encouragement!

Thanks for the note GF, I appreciate the comment. Good luck with your own projects!

Thanks for the note MS. Despite the game being a couple of decades old it's still fun to play and even more fun to mess with the editor. All the best to you!

Glad it worked for you. Best to kick monster butt in glorious full screen!

Thanks for watching and for the awesome note Mr. Able. And good luck on your own projects.

You're welcome Mr. Grotius and thank you for the nice note. GL with your own projects!

After that build I was hoping some armed forces used unicycles but to no avail! Thanks for the laugh Super, I appreciate the note and your sense of humour!

Sorry Roger, it's been too many years since I've messed with the editor so my memory of its functions is pretty foggy. I wasn't aware of the "extra" key/vals so not sure how you'd customize the func-earth quake.

A thought came to me after posting. Is there a camera shake entity that has a time keyval? If so, maybe try that and add an earth quake sound to simulate the func_earthquake.

@@stevieRay3211 Well I took a look at the cin_shake and cin_shake_cam entities but wasn't able to make use of them. However, taking another look at the speaker, there is an s_shakes key that will cause the screen to shake for the duration of the sound. Which is perfect for my wants.

Glad it worked out for you. Perseverance and creative work arounds are sometimes the only way to tackle the problems we encounter. Best of luck in the mapping adventures.

iddevnet.dhewm3.org/doom3/code.html I think the best way to learn D3 mapping is to unzip the game files as described in my videos and load the original maps into the editor to see how id pulls off the various gags.

@@stevieRay3211 Unfortunately DOOMEdit seems to be broken for me. Once opened, only the toolbar at the top and blank white windows are visible. I can interact with it, but it's impossible to actually use in this state.

The kit is easy to find and very inexpensive, making it a fast weekend build. If you want something in an America flavour, Tamiya's Walker Bulldog is another cheap and rudimentary kit. Neither will likely win any contests, but they're both fun and inexpensive to build.

Hey Silvestersze, thanks for the note. The undercoat color is sort of a raw steel colour which is very close to black. The lights and the video sometimes distort the actual colour. I add a bit of red and brown to give it that light rust patina look. Look at these raw steel slabs, www.pinterest.ca/pin/137359857361138693/. You can even see some blue in there. I don't dilute the overcoat to show the metal colour underneath. Rather, I spray lightly with an airbrush so as not to cover the undercoat completely.

@@stevieRay3211 Thanks so much for your replies. Gotcha! I’ll definitely do that. I really appreciate that. I’m now building the exact same model as in the video. Trying to get a hands on with this experience. LOL 😝

@@stevieRay3211 I do have one more concerning question about the steel slab. I went to the link you’ve provided (thx btw), I think the steel slabs (or any kind of metal) should have different degrees of metallic silver-ish shininess, shouldn’t they? Should I add some silver paint into the over coat (black-red-brown)? Please advise. And thank you again. 😄😄

Bare metal that's exposed to the air and elements looses it's shine almost right away. Also you likely don't want too much bright shiny metal on your tank. You can highlight, here and there, with a pencil but don't overdo it. See the M5 video, it shows the pencil treatment. Good luck.

@@stevieRay3211 Ahh… got it. Oxidation. Sure, I’ll look for that M5 video you’ve suggested. Have a nice day!

Hi Larry - thanks for the note. The Takom Stugs are nice kits and you should have no problems with your build. Hopefully the video helps. All the best to you!

Thanks HL. Admittedly my wood graining could use a little work. I appreciate the note and good luck with your own projects!

Now, now, we may have square Frizbees but we draw the line at wheels. You may reconsider the shows you watch for your cultural insights, like maybe try the far more authoritative The Simpsons. Have fun.

@@stevieRay3211 Between South Park, The Simpsons, and Family Guy, that’s pretty much the Axis Powers of my post High School education! 👨‍🎓 Beavis & Butthead deserve an honorable mention as a solid foundation to build on.

Hey Mr. J, thank you for the nice comment. WW1 resulted in a few funky camouflage schemes which makes the period fun for model painting. GL on your own projects.

Hey CL, thanks for the note. That little fellar is 1/35th scale. Probably not a whole lot larger than the real thing! Meow.

Thank you, my eloquent friend. I have a Huge Scale 1/16 Tamiya 36202 with Rommel, coming before Easter. I plan to do a big triple build of this; 1/16, 1/35 and 1/48, all Tamiya, the latter two for simple diorama “Vignettes”with a desert ME-109e (Tan w green spots). The last of which was my first model ever in the mid 70’s which is still in the family collection!

Hey GF, thanks for the note. Now I just have to finish the damn thing!!! Kind of lost my mojo but I'm hoping to get it back soon. Good luck with your own projects and thanks again!

Thanks for the note Simon. Once you get the PE grills on, the detail beneath is pretty hard to see so you should be okay. I'm a pre-paint fanatic so I'm probably too fastidious when it come to these type of matters. Truth be known, I've forgotten to paint a few "raspberries" in my time so we're brothers in suffering. Good luck on your project nonetheless.

@@stevieRay3211 When can we expect Part 2 of the build? Also, any tips of assembling these tracks in terms of gluing and being able to bend them?

Hey Simon, been taking a break from model building but I hope to get back to finishing part two of this series soon. In the meantime, a brief explanation of assembling plastic linked tracks is covered in my Stug episode, about 11 minutes in. Here is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gkz7MjuZDuk.html. The stug kit has length and link tracks but the procedure is the same for all separate links. If you managed to assemble all those pesky guide horns in the Jagdpather kit, my eternal respect for your perseverance!

Sorry, couldn't answer sooner. Yes, flat brushes. Not sure what size since the writing has worn off. It's about 8mm wide, synthetic, nothing fancy.

@@stevieRay3211 Oh, not a problem at all! Just couldn’t thank you enough for all these great advices… 🥳🥳

I've never encountered that problem before. If it's a small spot you can gently scrape and/or sand the area until smooth then re-paint the bare spot. You can also remove the paint using a lacquer thinner on a cotton bud. If it's all over the model, not sure what to do. I don't want to give you bad advice that could ruin the model. I have stripped the paint off an entire model before and repainted, but that's pretty epic. Sometime we just have to live with a few dust spots and vow to do better on our next project!

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you, Tomas. This’s a great piece of advice for the solution. Pretty much same way of what I think you’ve mentioned in scraping and/or sanding. But I’m not confident enough to use lacquer thinner removing the paint with a cotton bud then re-paint ‘the spot’ again method yet. Maybe I’ll try that in the future. Yes, I agree that sometimes we’ve to live with things in imperfect condition(s), nothing is perfect in the world. But learning from mistakes can improve modeling skills. 🍾🥂

Hey Silvestersze, airbrush pressure varies from 20+psi if I'm spraying a large area, like applying a base coat, to 12psi or less if I'm detail painting when the brush is very close to the surface. There are so many factors that it's best to find the pressure that works best for your circumstances. For the base or "primer" coat you can use anything. I like enamel since its durable but the greenies are taking away our enamel paints so using an acrylic or hybrid acrylic (Tamiya) works fine. Tamiya's grey primer that comes in the spray can is excellent but expensive. But many manufacturers make "primers" so select one that works best for you.

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you, Tomas. You’re my good teacher. I got it and will start at this settings here as a reference starting point. Yes, it’s not easy to acquire enamel paints in the US like it was used be in the 70’s. Back in the days, there were no acrylic, but enamel paint and lacquer spray paint only I remember. Sometimes I ordered those from Japan on eBay, but took a long time to receive. I use Tamiya Fine Primer and Oxide Red. Yes, they’re so expensive. I just use them conservatively.

Thanks Silvestersze. Hope everyone in Seattle is doing well.

The little bar clamps are 7 inchers. Yes, I reside in Canada - long winters, perfect excuse for hunkering inside and building models.

@@stevieRay3211 I hear you. haha

@@stevieRay3211 I’m in Seattle.

Hey Silvesterze - thanks for the note. I use the dual-sided ones, with 240 grit on one side and 120 on the other. That's a good general purpose sander. You may want to get additional finer ones if you really want a glass-like finish. There are other - how shall we say - better brands out there but if you're into saving a few bucks and don't mind a little extra work, then Trumpeter is okay. Hopefully you have some hobby mud around as the tracks have really bad push marks. Anyway, it's all covered in the videos. Good luck with the project!

@@stevieRay3211 Ahh… I see. I’m gonna get 240 to start out with. I’m currently just using a Tamiya file from one of the three-piece package/pouch. Thank you for the heads up! This’s really helpful. 😄

I don't think enamel would work for chipping. It isn't soluble in water and using a thinner on it would likely wipe all the paint off. You could try it on a bit of scrap but I'd bet it would turn out to be a mess. Maybe use a lacquer instead of the enamel if that's available. Your undercoat has to be a non-water soluble paint so it stays put when you wet the area (the parts covered with acrylic) that you're chipping. Sponge chipping on its own can still look really good.

@@stevieRay3211 Thank you. I appreciate your input! 🥳

No problem Mr. SS. Good luck on your project!

Thanks AM! Hope your own building project go well. All the best to you.

Thankssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss for the comment! First video so it was a little rough. Watch the latest ones, much better. GL.

Thanks FEP! Just don't blame me if you get scared when playing the game.

​@@stevieRay3211 Hi, do you know where i can contact creator of modding tool for this game?

Not sure what you're asking Gahler. You probably know that id is the company that produced Doom3 and its editor but I'm not even sure they're around anymore. If you want to connect with people that mess around in the idtech3 and 4 engine, try Discord. Not sure how many people are still on it but back in the day there were lots. Good luck to you.

@@stevieRay3211 Too bad but ok. I just want to modding something for game wolfenstein 2009. This game only allows for modding scripts but it cant modding sounds, textures and models because i need spk and mpk repacker. Well then have good day

RF has two kits, one with full interior and the other is almost as detailed - torsion bars and lots of subassemblies. The Meng JP falls somewhere between the Tamiya kit - easiest - and the RF kit - the most complex. Price-wise you can't beat Meng. This page, if you scroll down, has all the sprues and other bits displayed for one of the RF kits. On that page you can also have a look at the instructions. GL with your GP!! www.scalemates.com/kits/rye-field-model-rm-5031-jagdpanther-g2--1240885

@@stevieRay3211 thank youu!! The prize doesnt bother me. And between dragon takom and Rye Field? Sorry for been a little bit anoying hehehe

Questions are never annoying. Dragon kits are always complex but their "Smart Kit" series tends to be a little more simplified. Dragon kits are expensive and sometimes hard to find, and are comparable to the Takom kits for complexity. Some of the Dragon kits have zimmerit molded on. If you go to this link, scroll down to the time line where you can click on each release and see their details. If you decide on the Takom or Dragon kits, be prepared to spend quite a bit of time on them but some people like that level of detail and the work that's involved. I've built a few Dragon kits but I'm always put off by the price. Once you throw in your paint and supplies, I sometimes find it hard to justify the price. Still if you've never built a Dragon kit and love lots of detail and work, then give it a try. www.scalemates.com/kits/dragon-6924-jagdpanther-ausfg1-late-production-ausfg2--1186022

@@stevieRay3211 many thanks!

Thank-you for watching and for the note. All the best to you. Спасибо.

Interesting. The mystery is finally revealed! Thanks Paul for the insight. Tanks always have some doodads that befuddle us builders but thanks to the collective wisdom of model builders someone always leads us out of the darkness - sorry for the bad pun. All the best to you!

Thanks CS! I appreciate the nice note. Harvey gives us some great tips for upping our completion building. Good luck with your own builds.

Glad it worked for you Mr. B. Don't blame me if you get scared playing the game though. Good luck!

I totally feel your pain as this kit was an adventure. Truth be known, I made a bad error when building it because of the confusing instructions. Normally I would retire the build and move on to something new but I wanted to finish the episode so I had to buy the kit again for the fresh parts I needed. Maybe its a marketing ploy by ICM! I'm an experienced builder so God help beginners trying to tame this kit. Still, ICM as a brand has a lot of potential and most new companies, sadly, need some time to get their act together. Maybe one day Tamiya will expand their catalog to include more WW1 subject matter but until then, it's the wild west for us. Hopefully the video will spare others from our anguish. Don't get discouraged. With all the videos and forums around these days it gives us a chance to evaluate a kit before we buy it. Trust me, I learned that lesson the hard way. Thanks for the note and for watching and good luck with your future projects.

@@stevieRay3211 - Every now and then I need to build a Tamiya kit even if the subject doesn't interest me that much! Have you ever tried a Copper State kit for WW1? They're good.