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Finally,a fair dinkum down to earth bloke without a moronic 20 gallon hat and the shit annoying antics and dreadful acting 98% of the bigger 4x4 feature tools think is cool.
Hi, can you confirm a few details for my own 79 tub conversion for a 75 series? where did you generate the measurement from (source)? Where did you mark the 110mm from? Can you show more detail or the trimming down & moving of under tub steps & the mount that you say you cut 20mm off? Cheers
Hey mate, How would you go about doing the chassis under the cab? Would you recommend lifting it off? If so, how? Restoring an HJ75, preparing to go ahead and do the same as you. Do you see any issue in once sand blasting, spraying a coat of rust converter, then doing the chassis paint? Any other tips regarding restoration would be much appreciated. Keep up the good work! 👍🏽
I've got a 75 that is actually pretty rare because it's got factory diff lock and almost no rust and I got it with a fully custom tray that looks amazing problem is it's got a lot of electric problems that I am trying to fix, like indicators and tail lights and somehow it's missing the ecu-b fuse and ecd fuse but it still starts and runs fine
Hey mate, I'm 6'4" and keen to get the seat further back (i.e. to extend the rails or mount the whole seat further back). Do you know of anyone selling aftermarket rails/seats that can give additional slide? I somewhat foolishly thought it'd be an easy one to sort out, but I'm struggling to find other tall drivers who've tackled this.
Well I would go the early 79 (2000 to 2006) bigger cab and front suspension has been redone for the better. And normally, not much of a price difference surprisingly.
Very nice, but does anyone have any idea how to make your own full fender? I mean to protect the whole inside of the car, I don't know how to say, to prevent all the mess from the tire?
Hey mate great vid its a coincidence that I have the same model cruiser as yours and am looking to do a dual battery setup. Just wanting to know how far away from the main battery can you run the BCDC charger modual? I was hoping I could put mine in my canopy on the back along with my secondary battery that will be inside the canopy? Or must it be as close to crank battery as possible? thanks
Yeah mate that would be fine, I've done a setup like that and had no issues. It had a 3m long cable from the crank battery to the charger module then another 1m to the second battery. Just don't forget to use fuses on the wires. Cheers
Great 4wd mate , I have the 2003 factory turbo rv model . Only thing I did was install industrial 2micron fuel and oil bypass filters from filter Technology Newcastle. Super clean fuel and oil .
Hey mate, another good trick with the fuel filter is to flip it upside down and install the mount bolts again and crack the filter. Not loose just enough to make it easy to undo. Saves trying to get in there to crack it first.
Hey Mate, Would you happen to share the wheel size? Just looking for something myself. To suit fitment with 2inch suspension and also 2inch body lift. Would these tyres fit stock rims on my 1985? Only just getting started, got alot of work ahead of me with this one. Cheers!
i my self have a 60, the driver seat is now a nl pajero bucket that i had laying around, i ahd to cut down the seat base to make it not so tall and weld in my own horizontal braces and within an hour i had a comfy bucket seat, only regret is not cutting it down further but thats okay, only worry now is coppers lol
Good job mate, it would be good to make up a seat just like that but like you said coppers! I'll keep trying to find some stock ones so it's one less worry If I get pulled over haha
I love my autotechnica 4x4 seats in my 75series ute , got the standard material version not the fake leather, paid $580.00 for the pair at my local autobarn store. Made my own brackets to mount to the slides which worked out well as now i sit a bit higher as i used some 25mm x 50mm x 3mm dura gal steel. Heaps comfy on long drive and after 10,000km holding up really well, they still look like their new. 1 thing i found out as i drill out the section for passenger seat to weld a plate in, which i also welded a nut to the plate, toyota in their wisdom has already allowed for a single seat to be installed besides the bench seat on the passenger side, as it has a nut welded in under the floor for the mounting part but they never exposed it to the inside of the cab! Found that out as i cut the section for the plate to be welded in.
Dam maybe I should have went with the cloth material.... I was thinking that the two material types could be different but I didn't think it would have been that much. Toyota never ceases to amaze me, ill have to see if i can find that bolt would be nice to stop that dam chair shaking around. Cheers mate!
@@Buildin70s its the nut your looking for mate, i would go 2 ways, 1st now u have the slides mounted to your seat, remove that dodgy bracket and mark the centre of the slide hole onto the floor, now remove the seat and using a tape measure , double check the mark u made by measuring the front holes, then use that measurement on the rear holes, then check the measurement front holes to rear holes on both sides , thats were the nut is for a 75 series, if i had paid more attention when i drilled my hole i wouldve noticed i got it right on the nut 1st try. it wasnt until after i decided to cut a section out and weld in the plate that i seen the nut. worst case and you dont have nut, go the plate method, drill a hole in the plate, weld a nut to the plate, cut out a small section to weld the plate in flush with the floor, then your seat will be safe and not flex like that, plus in future if you need to do anything it will be like normal, undo the 4 bolts and remove the seat. Also as u mentioned about feeling that your slipping forward in your seat, the bracket i made as i mention, feels like it has lifted my seat up like 100mm even tho its only 25mm , im only 5'8 so i got plenty of head space for the seat to go up. my seat feels the opposite to what you described, i have to slighty force my legs down to use the pedals, basically my thighs feel well supported. either way, u can make your own brackets a make the front edge slighty higher than the rear so u stop that feeling of sliding forward. i would do that by using some washers , the washer idea would work with your current setup aswell. good luck
I guess that's why they say the poor man pays twice....if you happen to have some newish stock LandCruiser seats that your looking to get rid of I'd be happy to have a chat with you😅 Also, Buildin70s is now on Patreon, check it out here: www.patreon.com/Buildin70sRU-vid Thanks for watching!
9:25 "Any brand will do" well maybe but maybe not because Toyota (and generally Japanese cars) hates silica which present in many aftermarket coolant. The concentrated Toyota Red is Phosphated-IAT, and the newer Pink one is Phosphated-HOAT. I would use original Toyota Red for older cars as they might still have bronze components in the cooling system and just replace every 2 yrs as recommended by the factory. 4L of concentrated genuine Toyota red is $50 which makes buying aftermarket ones not really a cost saving option. Plus it feels good 😄
It's a really a hot topic green vs red. I've seen people use green in LandCruisers with no issues, same with the ones that stuck with red. Green was just the one I happened to grab at the shop plus it didn't really matter as you seen I was doing a full flash. The green coolant I got has no silica in the mix, same with the red ones I seen. Thats surprisingly cheap coming from Toyota haha but I definitely agree it's alot safer to stick with the colour from the manufacturer
