From your lawnmower to your coffeemaker, we provide quality repair parts and how-to videos to make your repair quick and easy. We aim to empower you to do simple DIY repairs yourself in order to save time and money. With Fix.com, you're handier than you think!
1:07 .. Pro Tip always use Hand operated pressure when dismantling long seated or corroded bolts/hardware. This includes car engines ... Its easy to shock, damage, snap or strip Old seated Original Fastners ... that can add Hours to a simple job ... Speed is not always Faster (yin yang)
Ok, here is some critical information, for those of us, with an electric/pull start system, and the black battery box on the deck of the mower. Ok, YES, there is a bolt underneath the box. But, it is towards the back of the mower, and you will see a slightly raised section of the box, that does not touch the deck, but sit's above it, about 1/4-3/8". The bolt you have to access is, literally in that notch, towards the backside of the black box/mower. And, I have found, that the box is riveted to the deck. So, for full access, you will have to rip the box off of the top of the deck, revealing 2 of the 3 bolts, as the 2nd bolt is, along the left side of the black battery box, just underneath the side front corner. But, if you are able to remove all of the plastic covers off of the back, including the flapper, for the bag. As, the top of the flapper for the bag hatch, is literally what has you blinded from seeing the bolt in the first place, besides the battery box itself. And, since I can't start it with the key anymore(Long story short, the cable harness was ripped out of the key starter switch, and ruined it), so it's pretty useless to me, at the moment. So, I decided to just rip the black box itself off. Which, made it much more simpler to access all 3 bolt's, for the plastic belt guard underneath. Also, it is a good idea to take a plastic bag(Walmart bags will do fine), and use it underneath the gas cap, by taking the cap off, then draping the bag(Double layer, by using whole bag) over the open hole, then screw the cap back on, and you now have a sealed gas cap, from leaking...
Electric blowers are not as effective for cleaning dryer vent systems. I used a powerful STILT blower and removed tons of debris compared to an electric blower. I wish I had recorded a video to show the difference. I used a gas blower outside to blow air into the home and a leaf vacuum inside to capture the incoming debris. Note: Do not use a gas blower indoors due to the risk of fumes and electrical hazards.
Just a heads up on these.....the D-shaft is so tight on most of these timers, the knob fails. New knob? The D-shaft strips. New timer and knob? 50/50 crap shoot. These are infuriating. Bring back the metal D-shaft!
Hey Everyone, my Whirlpool Quiet Wash Plus dishwasher (model DU920QWDB4) from around 2005 has a slightly different assembly, so yours might too. It's a little more difficult to get to the control panel. After removing the 8 inside screws, you have to slide the FRONT decorative panel off to get access to a final screw holding the housing together. It's all smooth sailing after that!
Thank you for the note about the gear selector being between settings producing symptoms similar to a bad gear set. It saved me some heart ache, time, and money at a crucial time.
I installed a new part but as soon as i press the water dispenser button the water pump burns out. Happened twice so is not faulty piece. Ia the correct model
This video makes it look very doable but I'd suggest looking at others as well. The bearing caps will usually be seized into position. These parts will need to be forced/broken off. I had my Maytag serviced many years ago. Not many will work these because of the difficulty. 😮
I am so grateful for this video! Thank you so much for the great tutorial. I did it several years ago and now I think I was remembering I was never gonna do it again. Ha ha! But you made it easy enough to follow. Thank you!
Your video made my replacement of the hot and cold water inlet valves easy and very quick. I especially appreciated your mention of the Phillips screwdriver and the slip-joint pliers. That was all I needed.🙂🙂 Normally, I would have brought half a toolbox. That isn't needed. All you instructions were perfect. Thank you. You helped me a lot.
I’m dissatisfied with mine. I’ve had it for 7 months. The front panel is cheap, one of the two brackets that secure it to countertop in front broke, the upper sprayer fell off and nothing in the Manuel to help me figure out how it was attached, no instruction on how to take the middle drawer off, got it off and now it isn’t level as it dips in the front and a plastic piece fell into the bottom and no idea where it came from. Very cheaply made.
Thank you for your tips...very useful since they were not indicated in the installation manual, even in official videos of the brand right here on YT. Ironically, manufacturers are increasingly making the installation of electronic devices more difficult and delicate, instead of the other way around. The only thing that was missing from your video is what was already indicated in other comments, and that is what would be the least complicated way to raise the washing machine to the pedestal. Keep up with the good content!
By the way, you don't necessarily need the Whirlpool replacement part. The only thing you need is 1/4 inch polyethylene tube that you can get from the pluming section of any hardware store.
For the rust inside the wheel barrow you can plug up the holes and purchase several containers of Evapo Rust from harbor freight, pour it in, and let it sit overnight. It will dissolve all the rust. That’s what I did. Worked great and ensured I removed all the rust inside the wheel barrow bucket. A grinder may not get all the deep seated rust inside the bottom of it.
