I'm not an expert, and on this channel I'm going to show you various tools and woodworking techniques that I have learned or am learning. Sometimes the experts demonstrate something and make it look easy. The only way to know for sure is to try it!
Also tune in here for reviews of tools that don't normally get a lot of attention.
I inherited from my father 2 screwdrivers of the same style as he shows only much larger. One about 9 inches and the other about 16 inches. They were both good tools and I depended on them. Unfortunately, they were lost when a thief stole my toolbox from inside my vehicle.
Good day sir. Great video…lots of information. You mentioned that you wax the sides of the plane….paste wax or do you use sealing wax? I’ve got a few planes and occasionally I have to go over them with very fine steel wool and put on a fine film of silicone based gun oil. That eventually evaporates/rubs off and I’d like to have something a bit more permanent. Yes…I use these planes on occasion. (Just wondering if they teach young folks how to use and maintain hand tools in the vocational schools). Thanks for your no-nonsense videos. Mac
I use paste wax. I have thought about using car wax also. Car wax dries harder but I imagine it would work just as well for preventing rust. Paste wax is probably better if the surface needs to slide over stuff. When I was in high school we had very brief instruction on using hand tools and almost zero on sharpening and maintenance.
If you live anywhere near Milwaukee, there's a flea market right off I-94 just south of Milwaukee called 7-Mile Fair. I know it's still there but due to poor health I haven't been there in years. It was starting to get overrun with booths that sell new junk from overseas but that's mostly in the indoor part of the flea. Outdoors still has LOTS of old tools and other typical flea finds. I used to live about an hour away from the place but found it worth the drive to head over her and find stuff like you're interested in. It's located at 7-Mile Rd and the west frontage to I-94.
Your seven looks great and looks like it is working good too. Keep the old parts in case you ever sell it, but it yours to do whatever makes sense to you. I have several low knob planes with small adjuster and have no problem going from one style to the other.
I too have replaced knobs and totes on my planes to fit my hand, a bit thicker and of more interesting woods. May i suggest you hang on to the original parts and if nostalgia bites, you can dress it up in its old parts 😊
I've got that same screwdriver. It was my wife's father's. He did a lot of woodworking and refinishing of old furniture, refinished a 100 year old piano, turned lamp bases, made bowls, cutting boards and tables. Sadly I never got to meet him, he had passed before my wife and I were married. She told me he had a great workshop behind his house.
I would never buy a saw with a plywood handle. EXCEPT for that one. Never seen it before. Obviously not a quality saw( my usual criteria) but everything about it is just cool
I believe the bevel gauge is a ships bevel or shipwrights bevel gauge. When they have brass blades there is often a small blade at the other end. When they are made with a wood blade there is usually only one blade like yours.
No matter how amateur you figure yourself to be, there are always folks out there way behind at whatever woodworking technique you are demonstrating! Just to say at least some of us appreciate what you have posted. I know I do!
Hutsuls strops are great. Made in Ukraine & very high quality. This knife is garbage and mine did not come sharp. Their set of pen sized carving tools are cheap and dull as well. No good.
Nice job. I’m sure highly skilled turners would call sanding cheating. I don’t. My only complaint…I much prefer the look and feel of the low knob. And of course you should build what I want and not what you want😜
An angle grinder with a sanding disc could be a helpfull tool, and I mean a sanding disc with overlapping pieces, and practice on a soft touch. Practice makes perfect, and be patient.
I try to drill the knob through while it is still on the lathe. But then I don't have a drill press, and I do have a drill chuck that mounts in the tailstock :)
@@NotanExpert-Woodworking Well it isn't magic, when wood dries it shrinks and when it gets wet it expands. When you go out hunting for old tools again look for a hammer/ax with a wobbely head on a wooden handle and just give it a try. But make sure you ram the end of the handle a few times on the floor to get the head in place and then let it soak.
Very nice finds. You should be able to weled yhat head. I dont know if you will need to preheat it or not. I have seen many people repair axes by welding them.
I'm not an expert too so we are kinda colleagues ;-) You could use 2 nuts to unscrew a threaded rod. Place 2 nuts on road, tight them against each other, then just use the one far from the end to unscrew rod. Sorry for annoyance but I'd like to train my English )))
Question: How the heck did you get the rivets of the S&J saw!? Neither you nor Rex showed much of this process on-camera. I tried prying them off and only succeeded in completely chewing up my wooden handle. Then I tried drilling them out. No dice. I'd finally mangled one rivet enough I could use vice grips to literally rip what was left of the head off the rivet and pound out the shaft, which was really stuck in there--tore thru more wood as it was pounded out. I took vice grips to the rivet I just removed and couldn't move the halves--NO amount of prying was ever gonna pop these apart. I have ruined my saw trying to get these foul things out. 😞
I did two of these saws using an old cheapo chisel and a hammer to pry them apart. A screwdriver wouldn't get under the edge of the rivet. Don't use a good chisel, it was kind of tough. There was some wood damage on a couple of the rivets. Some just came apart real easy.
@@NotanExpert-Woodworking No worries thanks buddy I was going to buy the Adjustar for the Stanley/ record to see if it fitted the millers falls thread , if not could try the Reed would be good if you could do that much appreciated.
@@NotanExpert-Woodworking Yes that would be great , I really appreciate you doing that for me , I've got two of the Adjustars on the way just now 👍 Looking forward to the video
Shelton plane company was around since the early nineteen hundreds if I recall correctly. Some of their earlier planes had a unique adjustment mechanism, some people collect the early ones but they are not regarded as good users. A search on E-bay will likely turn one up. I may be incorrect but my understanding they where bought out by Stanley at some point and may be reason for Bailey design being used. I suspect they where a lower cost plane to market to retailers so as not to ruffle the feathers Stanley's regular retailers. I have three Shelton number nine planes (they are cheap and kept popping up and make a good fore plane or for rough conditions), one doesn't have a frog adjusting screw, but he other two do. Seems like most you will see have the ugly ass totes like yours and one of mine. One of mine has a tote that resembles a very nice Stanley and the other is some where in between. The thing is if they are tuned they can actually work pretty well although all I have seen have a large mouth, but can be adjusted with frog. As far as Miller-Falls they made many different versions of the four size smoother plane some with solid lever cap. The ones with two piece lever caps are considered much better planes. I have a number nine that planes as well as any Stanley but the back lash for blade adjustment is so horrendous that it doesn't see much action. Hope this answers some of your questions.
The frog's ARE completely different. It's odd that the Shelton #9 is the only Bailey pattern plane that Shelton ever made and it was a post WW2 addition. I have stopped buying planes, I don't have room for a wall of plane in my tiny workshop. However, that said, I'm keeping my Miller Falls, I just like the way it looks.
If you want to clean up the wooden hardware on that Millers Falls, might I suggest using a little denatured alcohol and a lint free cloth, or towel. Some places sell it as "fuel" or "ethanol" depending on where you are. I know there's some issues in different parts of the world. It's a perfect solvent for shellac and I'm just guessing here, but the finish looks like shellac that's dried out and begun to chip. The alcohol will bring it right back and allow for the shellac to bind to the wood again. Easy peasy.
I bought the 12". Each "jaw" is 1 3/4 inches and with the screws out until flush with the threaded inserts you can get 8" between the jaws. Which is kind of huge.
