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@@kayarakruppenbacher4654 while I'm glad to hear that, I'm sorry that you're having this issue, it's a real Downer to see that when you take off the rail.
THANK YOU so much for this vid!! I literally made ‘washers’ from 2 (1 wasn’t sufficient) plastic roofing nail caps, as we are an hour one way from a home improvement store. I cut them to fit around the top of filter w my husband’s box cutter. I slipped them inverted stacked in one another over the post nipple of the filter housing. I feel the filter is a bit stressed but I’m expecting to replace (permanent correct fix) the entire part anyway so not that worried. I just can’t believe that one tiny plastic piece caused this issue at filter change time. Stay safe sir-thanks again!!
THANK YOU SOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH -----I USED A SOLID PLASTIC WASHER SO NO RUST AND IT WORKED GREAT------YOU ARE THE BEST !!!!!!!!!!-----YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE THAT SOLVED THIS FOR ME-----YEA ICE AGAIN ALSO !!!!!!
After all the work of removing the seats -- wouldn't you think we would like to a wide or long photo shot of the cargo area with all seats removed? Dah!
Cleaned it best I could, sanded, bondo, and then sanded and painted. Not a fan of the fix but didnt have $ to get it professionally done and didn't have the time to weld in a panel.
I saw this video and did the test without the filter and its hardly running but when I put my old filter back in, it runs just fine so this part has me stumped.
@@famoushollywood that's a tricky one... If I were to guess that valve plunger is on the brink of being too far out of spec to work right... On the edge so to say. Glad it works now though.
@@famoushollywood so after it was working fine with the old filters and you swap to the plug and same results? I know at one point they switched the new filter top to be a little bit different and not sure how it works with the old valve.
Great video. I'm having to borrow my wife's grandmothers minivan and I had no idea how great this stow and go feature is. Removing the seats could create a lot of extra room, but I'm not so sure that we will do it. Thanks for showing what is possible.
These vans are extremely versatile, you can fit a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood or drywall in the back. It can be argued that these are more versatile and convenient for construction than a pickup truck with a limited 6ft bed.
just got install done on van I recently got two things I had to do different is programable options are now in diagnostic list and I had to change remote start temporary disable to false.
Sorry I don't have anything to those. I would hope that the valve design was improved but if you have a total stoppage of flow then maybe iced over line or clogged filter.
Spot on with the fix. Thank you. Funny how there has been 1 million views as of my recent viewing. My take, don't by GE. Less than 2 years old and mine failed.
Thanks for the compliment, I currently do not have a he and my compressor failed less than 2 yrs. Fortunately the only issue I had with my ge after 7 yrs was that water filter valve.
did you rev it a bit for the hole time? ive bought a rx8 with fresh rebuilt engine, but not complete finished. at the first start it was running like yours, but engine turned off after around 20 seconds. im not sure if thats normaly happens, or if it is a fault.
I was giving it gas to keep the oil pressure up and make sure everything gets lubricated well. The engine shouldn't stall out, most likely something else going on.
My 2010 has a leak in exact same spot- front bolt on passenger side. Totally rusted out. Had I installed my own, it would have been a lot better done than Ford. Not a fan of this brand.
@@sshawn09 My 2010 has a Mazda motor that's great but a ford-mounted idler pulley ripped off the front cover of the engine at 45k (traveling at 25 mph ) simply from it's own normal tension and a poor design. Very complex repair for no good reason. Had to pull the crank pulley, retime the valves, woulda cost thousands because they underspecced the part. Replacement pulley had the three bolts the original should have had and would not have failed. Not covered by Ford after warranty. Rear latch failed. Never thought some of these things would go out. Something in the key and steering wheel I had to re-engineer., I forget. Windshield wiper motor. What else, was it a throttle body ?...I forget. Quite a few things before 60 k. Wipers failing. And the roof racks have problematic mounting that rusts holes in the roof. Great. I may be spoiled from a lifetime of Toyota/Nissan but I see a lot of cheap inadequate parts, areas of lazy design and other poor stuff on a vehicle that still mostly does it's job, drives and handles well, is quiet. Not bad, not good. Mine is old but low milage still hasn't broken 100k Of course I've had to do all the usual stuff that is maintenance; flushes, brakes, struts, a lot of suspension replacement no complaints, but it's clear the vehicle is pretty lightweight too. Not tough. I don't regret it, but next mini-SUV will be a used Rav4.
@@ceeweedsl wow, that is an unfortunate list especially the front cover situation. The throttle body is a widespread issue, I actually have a video on that too. Knock on wood, otherwise mine is hanging in there. Good luck!
@@sshawn09 Yep, thanks. That pulley was an incredible fail. Happened at 25 mph one evening the day before our first trip through the mountains on the new (used) 40k vehicle. There were three holes in the cover but they must have saved millions by speccing a two-bolt pulley mount. Of course, Ford took full responsibility for their error! (not). It's a known issue with the 2.5L engine of that era. Huge potential fail for a small savings. I like my Escape in many ways and it's not all bad news or anything but again, they have too many parts failures to be anomalies. It is (or was) indicative of a corner-cutting approach.
The washers I found [ 9/16" ID x 3/4" OD x 1/32" Thick 304 Stainless Steel ] didn't work, maybe because they weren't thick enough, or because the small plastic release valve needed to be pushed up even more than what the washer was able to lift (which I tested manually). The garden hose washer also didn't work, nor other metal washers I tried because they were too thick for the filter to completely turn & lock. Certainly "built-in-obsolescence" - no reason why that valve should ever fail. I ended up getting a [ GE WR17X22066 Refrigerator MWF Water Filter Head & Tubing ] for $64 from AMz. It wasn't hard, but wrote down the steps I needed to do before hand, so that I could just follow during the process, & make sure I turned off the circuit breaker every time I had to work on the water lines, & making sure there were no leaks before turning it back on. Another solution might be to find a way to attach, glue or epoxy some other piece of something of the same diameter to that plastic valve that would allow the valve to go higher, & no mo more than perhaps an extra 2/16" (1/8") - which is all you need. Thanks for the great video, which certainly saved me a lot more time than I spent on the job.
Thanks for this feedback. I have heard the design changes a bit over the years, perhaps that's why it didn't work, really not sure. Thanks for the measurements as well, all the info is much appreciated. I'm glad you got it working with the new one.
Thank you so much ! After trying two GE filters and the washer method I was able to replace the whole line and unit in under 15 minutes. Everything is working perfectly now!
@@sshawn09 thanks either way.. I put the washer on the filter and it's still the water flow is low..I think it's that whole filter piece that I have to replace...
@@firstplt bummer.... There's a few ppl where the same situation occurred. A new valve isn't the end of the world and pretty easy to replace. Good luck.
The valve failed because they used a soft plastic. If you can imagine a V design that gets pushed in to open the valve, that V kept getting shorter and shorter. Changing the filter also gave it compression at an angle - also collapsing the V length even more. Thats why the hack is to put a washer in there, to squeeze it up a little higher.
This was hugely helpful, thank you! This is a complicated mechanism and even with the manual I'm not sure I would have understood it as clearly without the help of your video.
Awesome job I went with the new part on my 6 yr old ge it cost about $55 easy to install following the steps you went through great success!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
This is the first video of yours that I've watched. I just want to say it's absolutely brilliant, you have a fantastic way of explaining and showing how these parts operate. You're a real credit to RU-vid. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for that very sincere comment, it is much appreciated! I'm truly glad to help, thank you for providing a comment that gives me motivation to make another one.
YOU are AWESOME. Regular garden hose rubber gasket. Working perfect. Interesting I tried it with the new OEM GE filter and hose gasket and got no flow at all (probably operator error). Reinstalled the new Home Depot filter with the hose fitting and it works great. You continue to impress 7 years later. (11/16/2023). Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving and a very Merry Christmas to you and yours.
I can't seem to get it right at all. And I can't even find a book on it. It is driving me crazy. By any chance do you have pictures of the clutch set up
FANTASTIC video, as Ive already used the washer method. My parents are having issues, and I’m almost 100% sure it has to do with the SECOND “How to?” in your video. They’ve had someone come over, and I just know they’re going to way over charge them as they are elderly. How much do you think ordering the parts (with the two tubes) plus labor would/should cost???? I know it’s been a year , but if you get this could you give me a best estimate at your earliest convenience??? No worries of course if you can’t, and thanks anyway for the great video!!!
I'd love to help you but in order to estimate the parts, one would need the exact model number. If you have that you can go to a website such as ereplacementparts dot com to see the cost.
Are all Chrysler OEM Wireless Ignition Modules compatible with remote start, or do you have to get one that is compatible? My WIM went out on my Chrysler and I have to replace it anyways. I'm just not sure if there's two types (ones with remote start, and ones without) or if they all do it. I saw an aftermarket WIM (Dorman) that says it's without remote start so I just wanted to see if you replaced the WIM in your system because it wasn't compatible with remote start?
I'm not 100 pct sure. From what I understand it seemed as if they were all compatible w remote start. The difference was that the new one had an external antenna port and it came.with said antenna. Because I was unsure if it would work, I had purchased the replacement. Not sure if it helps much, sorry.
@@sshawn09 thank you for the quick reply is there in way that you can send me the info about the remote start information really thanking about doing it to the family can. Thank you for ur time and info. Ps. I'm very handy.
If you notice and compare...the newer manifold assemblies now have small ridges near the valve "button" and the old one (in the video) did not. GE did this to keep us from doing the washer trick, this makes the washer not be able to push against the valve button.... they did this presumably so that we all have to spend another $70 bucks for a new manifold assembly each time it fails. Which is often. :-(
Thanks for the comment. I have seen that newer design, they are tricky. I've never tried but I wonder if using a dremel to smooth down would be a solution?
@@sshawn09 I was thinking the same thing. It really does look to me that GE has modified the design of the part to make us continue to buy their new part every couple of years. My guess is they know the washer trick by now. I've purchased about a 5 or 6 of these in 10 years. It wasn't too bad when the part was $20-25 bucks, but the part cost has tripled by 2023. 😞
@@sshawn09 I had though of the same. I kept an old one to mess with at one time. I might try some solutions on the old unit once I replace it with a new one. I think a little cap that could fit over the existing "button" on the manifold will help. I think after just two or three filters the button tip surface gets worn just enough to not make enough contact to depress fully.
such a crap design. I tried a plastic washer in the past but it couldn't get the little button to push up enough. I've had a GE refrigerator for 10 years and I've replaced WR17X22066 manifold at least 6 times. It's a terrible design that only after 2 or so filter changes, it wears it out. Thanks for the video
@@sshawn09Update: I took it to a nearby transmission shop in Walbridge, Ohio and they confirmed it was the throttle body, not the transmission! Code came up as P2111-00, Throttle actuation A control system stuck open! My family will go on Rock Auto and order a new one!
@@jacobg.witmer before you do that call Ford service and asked if it's recall. It would save you a pretty penny, and the little bit of time and effort.
