Sharing projects based on the Arduino platform, Raspberry Pi, electronics and 3D Printing. Occasional personal vlogs but they are few and far between. I am not a particularly good student of anything, nor am I a particularly good teacher.
mine orange pi3b got stucked the initial orange pi screenshot, but can't the sd, with both leds on, tried different images but nothing, power supply and cable has been changed as well
So glad I found your video (and so glad you pressed “record”!). New to RPi, I’m hoping to build something similar, but had no idea what software to use, and how it would all go together. I got an old pi B+ to boot last night, and have a zero 2w and touchscreen arriving this week, and your video gives me a roadmap and the confidence to take on this project. Thanks for making and posting this video
I've just purchased one of these guns and have yet to try it, you video has given me a lot of confidence and I enjoyed watching almost as much as you did making it, thanks for not editing out the mistakes
Hello, my name is Richard, I am the person that created the electronics and software for the original Brian the Robot (the actual one!). It's quite amusing that there are people still thinking about poor old Brian!! Well done, nice little project 🙂
That's awesome Richard, thanks for commenting. I'll let Toby know that one of the original creators saw his Robot. He's a bit older (8..ish) now but I think it is still kicking about.
I ordered 3 for prototyping drones. I have a xiaon esp32s3 running an accesspoint hosting http server for output of mpu6050 data and gps data. The mpu6050 displays data but my gps does not. I do see one binary character. But im lost at this point. I have to step outside for the blue led to turn on but 30 minutes of running i got no data
Sadly not, I replaced my stations with some others, one called Britcom One has some nice old BBC radio comedies. You can still get the BBC world service. But losing Radio 4 is a real shame.
You absolutely could use the internal amp, but that amp is designed for different signal levels. It also means you would need to separate it from the tuner circuit and understand the how it operates. I didn't have the exact schematic so it would be difficult to integrate.
I have recently started learning to solder. Nothing I do seems to work well, and I always make a mess. I have tried watching many introductory videos on it, but it seems each of them promote fancy hardware that I do not have access to. Thank you for making this video. You showed me a new way to think about solving my problems, and seeing things not go perfectly for you really helped encourage me to keep trying with my own projects. Thank you!!!
The PET should be quite easy to fix, it got an old school linear power supply with a nice big transformer. I'd reseat any chips in their sockets, making sure you take ESD precautions. these old chips will die very easy to any sort of static discharge and are getting harder to get.
I'll start with checking voltages and caps. The inside might need a clean. Can't recall if it has external video but I can certainly reseat the chips. I have some contact cleaner too and a fibre glass pen if it needs it. Unfortunately it wasn't well protected during the dustiest parts of the renovation.
@@DavidWatts just take esd precautions, give it a good clean and reseating of chips in sockets. There are plenty of circuits on the web. I don't think it has external video. I'll have to check to see what goes out to the outside. Good luck and it would be nice to see a repair series.
@23:00 doing 45 degrees and then cutting flat to cut off the end up against the wall to effectively cut of the piece that would have been touch the strip you cut off the long length would have worked, man this is hard to explain in text. I had to do the same thing in my place.
You just needed to make the 45 on both pieces then cut the top piece again to take off the tip. As you cut down the architrave then you need to "reduce the length" or trim the tip off of it to make the pattern align. I imagine it is done now, but the changes you need to make can still be done if you have a bit more length on that extra piece you planned to add.
I really should have reached out for advice before I went all in 🤣it is nailed and glued to the wall now. I'll know for next time, now you have explained it, I don't know how I didn't realise it.
That's going to be embarrassing when guests get down on hands and knees, and look at that fireplace tile with a magnifying glass. Ooooh, these tiles are off by at least 0.25mm. Otherwise, really looking great now.
Cut all angles at 45 degrees, and then shorten the left hand side of the top piece by the same amount as you trimmed off the LH architrave. Of course the top piece will need to be longer to allow for it to be trimmed. At least that's the way I've seen it done.
Yes, cut the right hand architrave to the same width as the left and the top of course. Anyone looking at it would realise the reason why it had to be done.
Thanks David. I was thinking about you the other day and wondering how it was going. I all looks fantastic. You will have to show us how the architrave turns out on the next update. Take care.
Will do, the next update will probably be the last of them. I won't be able to do the kitchen for a while. Once that bedroom is carpeted I can set up my nerd room. I have some electronics projects I am looking forward to attempting.
I've just found one of these units languishing in a draw. I have a use for it but there seems to be quite a lot of (not so) background noise on the recorder's playback. Is this normal, do you know, and can it be tamed? Enjoyed your video - thanks!
I own an Orange Pi prime and well I found a problem the power in jack looks like its soldered to the board but after removing the plastic housing I found that the center pin was not making a connection to the circuit board and soldering it is almost impossible ,After trying to solder a wire to the gold looking throughhole and failing I give up its verying tiring this gold throughole is the 5 volt bus and it will not take any solder ,to the trashbin it will go.
Thanks. Interestingly I found (and designed myself) only high side switch with P-MOSFET. It's fine, cause I used it to shutdown SD card reader and it's voltage regulator once. Kind of problem is that if switch is designed to disconnect Arduino from battery to prevent deep discharge and damage of rechargeable batteries, not every MOSFET works. Some may still allow few microamps to flow - either because Vgs(th) is specified for 1mA, or because they conduct a bit all the time and there's some sweat spot - if voltage is close to Vgs they conduct, if voltage is double vgs, they conduct too and when voltage is close to maximum rating (e.g. 60V), there should be current no higher than 1mA. But for similar design I used 1M as a mosfet pullup (here pulldown) and 100k for base of bipolar transistor.
I been trying to get my Attiny85 to work, I 'm using a top hat board that plugs direct in the Arduino Uno and works fine as long as I have it plugged in the Arduino , when I remove all the wires a try to blink the led with my own 5v battery it does not appear to work, seems like it not transfering to ting85 memory? I also see lots of other people are having the same problem and most of the youtube videos are done but hobbist just learning and they skip several important steps. Hope you can make a better video and show detail and go slower.
