I'm just a guy in a shed, you know? A goofball with a bunch of benchtop power tools and an Avid CNC router. Although I'm known for making Vectric Software tutorials, I'm NOT a Vectric software or CNC expert.
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Mark Lindsay PO Box 581 Eagle Point, OR. 97524
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Hi Mark, if one were to take a piece on and off the table to do epoxy pours would you need to set-up work offsets or can you just manually re-establish the xy coordinates? Thanks!
Strictly speaking, you can do this without work offsets. You just have to be very precise when you set your X, Y, and Z zero. The work offset just makes that process a lot easier. Once you've established the work offset and save it, you should be able to go back to that work offset repeatedly. The epoxy inlay of the cartoon pirate I did videos on is the perfect example. It was 15 colors, poured over the course of 6 days. I took the project off the table and poured the epoxy in my house, as it's climate controlled. Each day, I took the project back outside, homed my CNC, remounted the project, then went back to that work offset. I never set my X Y zero a single time. I only had to set my Z zero for each bit I used on that day's carve. The project came out perfect. Here's a link to the final video in that mini-series, in which I carved and poured the inlays, then surfaced and finished the project. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u2A9L4b7VWU.html Again - I never set my X Y zero a single time. I just homed the machine, went to that work offset, set my Z zero, then started carving.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks Mark! I did watch all the videos in the pirate series, I'm new to CNCing and do not have the homing switches for my CNC. Thanks again! I have also watched a number of your other videos and for a beginner not familiar with all the terminology and concepts yet, you delivery style and and explanations are great and much appreciated
Thanks Mark - that was a great video ! I'm new to Pro Carve so exploring the possibilites is exciting(even starting at 73 years old as I am. Your pace of explanation, detail, is much appreciated.
I'm importing a STL, its making me set a zero plan. If i go above the zero plane my model is out side the work area. If i set the zero plan in the middle, there is some parts that are under the zero plan that wont be cut. How do I fix this issue?
You have almost perfect timing. I'm going to discuss this very thing on my Live Q&A on Sunday, July 7th at Noon Pacific time, 3pm Eastern time. I hope you can join us, as I'm going to answer your question directly. It's a common question, but it's way too much to try to type out in text.
Your training is absolutely first-rate. After I found this series, I started with the first video and I plan on working my way through the series. I am new to CNC and at this point, I don't know what I don't know. This series is filling in those knowledge gaps in a logical sequence.
If your wife is anything like my wife, scruffiness is not considered a desirable trait -- after about a month, she's "suggesting" I get a hair cut & trim. ( Usually takes another month or two before it happens.) 😬
Thanks Mark for a very informative lesson, I am thinking of buying a Rapid Change ATC and they sent me a STL file so that I can run a mock up unit to see if it will fit on my CNC. Well it has holes in it for where the cutters fit into and fixing holes to the cnc table, I have never done a 3D before but this one made it a lot easier to understand. I have just upgraded to VCarve12 so working out what is different is a bit of a challenge. Cheers.
Thank you very much for your kind words, but I'm far from a professional. I'm just a retired guy in a shed who is having the time of his life. If this mini-series of videos has helped you with a 2-sided project, then I've done my job. Thank you!
That is sooooo cool! I can pretty much make any type of moulding. After renovating my first floor, the moulding where it tied into old type, I was told they don’t make it anymore. Now I can recreate it once I get all the measurements. You were right, not talked about much.
By chance, I just received my 4th axis from Avid earlier in the week. This video goes a long way in removing some anxiety and dread about setting things up. I should get a torque wrench. What is the torque suggested for extrusion? You are an easy-to-listen-to teacher and your videos are clean and void of fluff - a testament to your editing.
I do appreciate your kind words, but I think my editing needs a lot of work. Just my opinion, but thank you again. I'd say 99.999% of people don't bother with a torque wrench. They just snug it up and move on. Avid themselves suggest that. I spent too much time in the army working on helicopters to not have at least a suggested torque value, but that's just me. I spoke with the folks at 8020, and they recommend a torque of 15-18 ft lbs., but DO NOT go past 20 ft lbs. Basically, if you tighten it until it's tight, you'll be fine.
Flip that bowed wood and put it out in the sun. Bow down. It will come back. But watch it will reverse. Old woodworker Charles Neil taught me that it works. Bag it when its flat.
Assuming the dish is a 3D model you're carving before you carve the text, you set the Z zero to the material surface the same as you would if you were carving into the surface of the material. In the V-Carve Engraving toolpath, check the box next to Project onto 3D Model when you calculate that toolpath. The software will do the rest.
I just finished the replay. Answering questions would be great on a limited basis, say once a month, or every other month. But the in-depth topics are still the best. Thanks for all you do, Mark!
