Best intro of all time! If you layout a pattern of holes on your MDO base, you could use 1/4x20 inserts and design a repeated pattern for each strip of MDF so you can easily remove and replace your spoilboards when they get too used up.
Probably, but I don't ever plan on replacing one of them. When I surface them down to the point that they're getting close to the top of the aluminum t-track, I'll just glue some 1/4 inch thick MDF on top of them, surface them flat, and drive on.
I installed a very similar setup but used the CNC to cut slots for the track and their mounting holes. With those installed, I stuck up on the fit of the MDF slats.
Good morning Mark. That spoilboard looks really nice!! I'm really liking the t-track idea.👍 I have a question, didn't you find that the mdf was a little rough after you sealed it? Did you lightly sand in between coats? I used the polycrylic to seal my mdf cnc benchtop and it did not dry smooth. I had to sand between coats. I've used the Sanding Sealer on mdf for other small projects and it works really good (but I think I still had to sand it). Probably should've used it for my benchtop. 🤷♂️😃 I won't be able to make your live stream today, so I figured I'd ask here. Thanks a lot Mark!!
Thank you, Joe. Yes, the MDF is a little rough, but that's to be expected. It's nothing a little 220 grit on a sanding block won't cure in about one minute. I didn't sand between coats. I'm not going for a showroom finish - I'm just trying to keep the MDF from absorbing a ton of moisture over the winter.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Ok yeah, that makes sense. Thanks so much for getting back to me. 👍 So do you feel that the roughness will NOT affect your material or make it a little uneven in certain spots?
This is the 3rd spoilboard I've done this way, and I've never noticed any unevenness (is that a word? I guess it is now...) I do know that if I don't seal the MDF it WILL be uneven as heck before January. We get a lot of rain during the winter, and wood will start to rot very quickly if it's not sealed. MDF absorbs that moisture in the air like a sponge. That's the only reason I seal it at all.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Yes, "unevenness" is NOW a word!! Why? Because you and I said so....it is so decreed.😆 That mdf will blow up if not sealed, especially where you live. Here too, so I wouldn't take that chance either. Thank you for the help and advice, Mark. I appreciate it.
Mark, why not just glue the whole board down and CNC mill the slot for the aluminum. MDF doesn't really need sealing but I would have used a thinned shellac.
There are a lot of ways to skin the proverbial cat. As long as you get the result you want, that's what counts. As far as sealing the MDF is concerned, I have to. I live in an area that gets dense fog for days at a time. If I don't seal the MDF, it will swell and eventually start to mildew and rot. It's happened to me before - that's how I know I need to seal it. As I said in the video, I normally would have used thinned shellac (or shellac-based sanding sealer,) but I was out of it and I needed to get it sealed ASAP.
Glueing the spoil board. I have to help someone move so I won't make the Live Q&A. I know that as months and years go by, you will have to resurface the spoil board. Eventually, wouldn't you have to replace the slats? Do you plan on removing the t-tracks and surface the whole board down to the base level spoil board?
I should never have to replace one. When I eventually surface it down close to the tops of the t-track, I'll glue and fasten strips of 1/4 inch MDF, surface and seal that, then drive on. Should I need to remove one strip of MDF, I'll mill it out as you described.
The same as with my Gatton CNC, Steve - I should never have to replace one of the MDF strips. When I eventually surface it down close to the tops of the t-track, I'll glue and fasten strips of 1/4 inch MDF, surface and seal that, then drive on.
