how do pads even lift from the trace like that? im assuming by dropping the cart, but i think the shell would break completely before the board gets damaged like that. also, doesn't matter that you keep doing the same thing, these videos are entertaining to watch.
I just got a SFC off ebay and it had a horrible buzz but swapping that resistor fixed it. Thanks for posting such a quick video pointing out the issue!
4:19 people usually think those pads of the rambus(rams) affect some and when you look the scheme those just only keep the ram down nothing else for better result i recommend you grab an capa check or capacimeter and read those capacitors levels you will avoid future freeze to test if that gonna happen use Mario 64 level dire dire docks if the 64 freeze maybe you could recap the entire board including the audio and video part ...
I got a sfc/snes from someone i know and it has this audio problem where if you don’t use it for a very long time, then it has sound If you play it too long, the sound will slowly get distorted and disappear and you will only hear the buzzing sound from the console. This is a issue I have.
You’re doing a good job you don’t have to justify every cart you repair. You are inspiring me like you said it keeps the carts out of the landfill and also it keeps the passion alive. There’s no way we could ever keep these alive for eternity. We are doing collectively we keep the hobby freshin the eye of the beholder
I bought a Super Famicom from Japan and plugged the supply in today... i live in europe... thank god for surge protection! But yeah the brick was humming for a while and then a fat spark indicated demise for this guy. Thanks to your video i was able to make out what part exactly vaporized in that moment. Im confident that i can repair it so it will bring joy for years to come.
By the way, just a little information. The cartridge slot is actually region locked just like the c. D so if you have A us only action replay. It will not work in a Japanese Sega Saturn.
Lol bro I recently discovered your videos and I've got to say it's the best! Definitely got me cracking up over here with the music and sound effects 🤣 glad to have found your channel, and I love your honesty.
I have One genesis game that loads up the 'Licensed By' page then goes black. Cleaned it up, tried every way of inserting it and everything... Nothing. Any advice on what it could be? Seems the console is fine given that it plays all other games.
I have a SNES with a graphics problem that I thought might be related. My video output looks perfectly clean except for the fact that the whole screen scrolls vertically, wrapping around from the bottom back up to the top. The scrolling motion is slow, such that it takes a few second to wrap fully around each time. I tried replacing the 6 capacitors that you replaced in this video, but that did not fix the problem (no change that I can tell). Got any other suggestions? For reference, I'm using the original power supply and composite AV cable with an old CRT (which works). The motherboard is labeled "SHVC-CPU-01". Thanks in advance!
Sorry, I couldn't really say without looking at the board. You could also try replacing the caps 33uf caps by the voltage regulator and maybe the regulator itself.
I looked for a copy of Star Wars just because of a copy of Conker with damage to the trancers. After changing the chips it worked fine and looks better now. The good thing is that this Star Wars game is cheap.
One thing that can be considered is reverse-engineer the PCB and simply make them brand new. I suppose they must be a 2-layer design, so it shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish.
yes the problem with most glues is they melt when you use the soldering iron - JB weld make a high temp epoxy - good idea using the copper tape tho - i never thought of that- green UV mask top and bottom helps hold a pad firm
Hey man I was trying to fix pilot wings on snes there’s a square component that needs to be replaced but I’m not sure what it was and was going to see if you could tell me
If you run into this again, use a rotary grinder with a super small tip to carefully grind away the area above the pins to expose more surface to solder to. We had to do that on the Wii drives when they started clipping pins to prevent drive hacking. It will give you more area to solder to and usually keeps you from putting so much heat into the chip trying to get it to stick to the leg remnant.
