Hello, thank you for this really informative 😊 just for my knowledge, instead of welding it, couldn't you just heat it up using the tig torch and let it cool down? That way you won't have to turn the weld down everytime. Thanks 😊
@Pawcu4ever Yes you could heat it up but the effect of welding is more, and personally I have a bit more control in small areas. This shaft was short and needed a tight bend. If it was longer, bigger or less bend than I would only heat it up. The effect is also relative the diameter of the shaft. Small shaft like this has little effect on heating up with a torch. You heat up almost the entire shaft (unless you have a very powerful and small torch) and ten there is little cold steel to keep it in place, so that the heated area can pull it straight when it cools down. When the whole shaft is heated and cooled it just expand and shrink but no straightening.
Hi Bart, I have the same machine here in Australia that I’m currently restoring. Mine is missing the cross slide and compound slide lock levers. I see you play with it quickly in your video but I’m unsure of how they’re meant to function. If you can help me describe them and the function or pull one out and send me some photos please reach out!
Yes! Its a Japanese calendar thing. Take the first two numbers of the serial number tag and add 25. This was the year the machine was made. The second set is the month. The last 4 numbers are the serial nr.
My Cincinnati lathe has the same convention regarding the sliding and facing power feeds. I can change direction of the leadscrew without stopping the spindle (at reasonably slow speeds) via a dog clutch on the threading gear box.
Small suggestions: Please move the welder away from the iron dust next to the grinder. Thank you very much for the inspiration with the height-adjustable table.
I'm going to take apart the tool post on my LS again and check the multi-positional function gears. I know I get the 90deg positions plus some others but not as it appears in Bart's video. I'm so enjoying this 'lathe porn' as my wife calls it.
Great lathes. The gear is a sacrificial gear, I think the original is made of a fiber as I recall. I made a new one because on my LS one of the teeth had a chip. I made a few extras, if you need one look me up on the internet just type in my name. Prince Edward Island Canada.
What was that second belt you used to put the chamfers on the mounting bar? You started out with a red sanding belt then switched to a shiny silver colored belt.
Thank you for your video. With due respect I disagree with Robin somewhat on these solid tool posts. This is a tool room lathe, it is designed to work within specific parameters and Schaublin knows very well how to design lathes. When we change out the standard compound tool post for the solid tool post we limit the versatility of the lathe. Let's understand tool room lathes are not CNC lathes, CNC lathes do work better with solid tool posts because they have different parameters and they are controlled by computers that enable them to machine any angle required. Are we saying that the original tool post can't make as quality a cut as the solid tool post? I think we can make equal cuts with either and I'm sure Schaublin would never let a lathe leave its factory that made inferior cuts. I will say that I have personally made a solid tool post and I do use it but I still use my standard tool post for certain machining operations, especially tapers which do not work well with solid tool posts. Older lathes do not work as well with modern carbide and ceramic tooling because they involve higher tool pressures and speeds. Also, it is not always possible to take finer cuts with modern tooling without having several different carbides for different cut depths and materials which small shops aren't always capable of affording. With that said older lathes work very well with tangential cutters because they require less pressure, in fact older lathes work better with HSS cutters overall. With carbides there is a benefit to the solid tool post but the benefit is from speed not overall cut quality. The other problem is the material the solid tool post is made from. Steel has a tendency to add resonance to cutting. I did verify this making both a steel and cast iron tool post. On heavy cuts the steel gave out a high pitch whine. If someone is hitting the tail stock with the compound then they are not using the lathe correctly.
nice job but base ,angle brackets 2 times the size you have ,and how about using old riding mower axles and steering with solid steel /rubber wjeel,woiuld be dope.
Thanks. I didn't want bigger brackets or steering because it was designed to be small and easy to transport on a trailer when I pick up machines. It's not ment to move around under load. And I can support the structure with straps if I need too. But if it was not designed for small transport I would have definitely made it bigger 👍
I just got my own Okuma LS home to the shop and set up. A big thank you for this series, has helped alot in sorting through the ins and outs. That brake addition is interesting on your lathe, do you have any further information on it? Mine has some remnants of a manual type brake but not electrically driven. Thanks again!
Leuk weer eens wat van jou te zien Bart! Heb eens voor een eindproject van MTS Wtb een langsgeleiding gemaakt voor de Pullmax. Dit was met 2 haaks op elkaar staande zwaluwstaarten. De ene was voor de hoogte verstelling van de langsgeleiding en de andere was voor de onderste geleiding van de Pullmax. Zo kon je een volle plaat op maat knabbelen.
Great work. Love your videos. I own a 102vm myself and would love to make a solid tool post for it. Any chance you have a drawing or cad file i can use as reference?
Very nice and thoughtful of you to refurbish your Grandfathers work , am sure your family is grateful . Thank you for filming it for all to see . Kind regards Brian
Your gift to Mark was a super kind and thoughtful gesture not only to him, but to all of his subscribers. Thanks to you his content won't be delayed on account of broken end mill.
