Photography techniques tutorials and gear reviews. Most of the videos relate to lighting, whether off-camera lighting, studio lighting, or on-camera flash. For more, check out the the website link.
One question: how come you have a Dutch name and a German accent? :)) Fantastic stuff, this goes immediately into my GOLDEN TUTORIALS folder... There are very minor points I would have done slightly different, like with structuring video or editing (give a bit more time to showing the examples, and next to each other works best), but that's a side matter. I felt like back at school when we wondered how some great teachers stood out and could reach out and catch our attention. I've seen this video actually twice, counting the number of times I had to rewind to be able to follow (have no such a flash yet). Extremely welcome stuff, and I'll be buying the modern flash I had hesitated to, now under impact of this video. Can't wait!
Having a white or reflective part to this would definitely make the device more efficient ... HOWEVER, the idea behind the black foam is that it acts as a flag. Not a flash modifier per se. With the black foamie thing / flag, I want to control the DIRECTION of the light that I am bouncing. If I use a white card or some metallic reflector inside the flag, it would throw light up towards the ceiling again ... which is light from the lens axis again, somewhat defeating the idea behind using the black foam as a flag.
Hi Neil. Excellent video. I'm curious if when you are bouncing flash in this manner with TTL, do you often find the need to up the flash exposure compensation depending on the distance of the bounce and/or the distance of the subject? Also, when you bounce behind you, are angling the flash slightly up at all, or is it essentially just straight back? Thanks again for this insightful content
I do not understand a few things. I use a Nikon F3 analog camera with an SB-800 speedlite. I use a simple A-41 adapter so I do not have TTL. I only get “aperture priority non-ttl”, “distance priority” and “manual”. I do not understand in these settings how to determine my exposure time.
Your best approach would be to use a light meter to measure your flash, since you are missing out on immediately seeing your results with film photography (instead of digital.)
While listening to your video this morning and earing once again about the end of the curve when talking about the inverse square law, a sample explanation came to my mind to help me visualize how it works. Let’s say the light source is at 1 meter from our subject with the proper power to have a perfect exposure. Test 1. Let’s move our subject from 1 to 2 meters. 1 meters difference to lose 2 stops of light. Test 2. Let’s move our subject from 2 to 4 meters. 2 meters difference to lose 2 stops of light. Test 3. Let’s move our subject from 4 to 8 meters. 4 meters difference to lose 2 stops of light. Test 4. Let’s move our subject from 8 to 16 meters. 8 meters difference to lose 2 stops of light. And we can go on with the same results. As we can see for each test, the difference it takes to lose 2 stops of light is greater as we increase the distance between the light source and our subject. That's the end of the curve you were talking about and now I can visualize why it works.
Thank you for the reference from the other video. Your point was proven 8 years ago and is still relevant today. Besides all the demonstrations between the different diffusers, I particularly liked what you said at the very end - "Cost you nothing!" 🙂
Wow, that was very interesting and mind opening! I was in the process of watching videos that compares Magmod products with Godox about their flash modifiers. I'll buy one of your books instead. Your explanation about using the flatten portion of the distribution of light based on the inverse square law was kind of a revelation. It's so obvious that we just don't see it. I already did some tests with my wife yesterday and it simply works. That and hiding direct light from your subject with the black foam are the keys. Fantastic video, not too long for what we learn.
Really excellent explanation and demonstration. I setup a test with my son's stuffed animals in a small room to test. Was able to follow and see the differences. Thank you!
If the walls and ceiling are warm toned, you're still safe to bounce your flash. But if the walls and ceiling are painted green or blue, then the spectrum of color you’ll get when bouncing your flash, will lack the warmer tones you need for good skin color. Your best option then is either direct flash, or off-camera flash.
I do offer workshops, whether online or in person. The in-person workshops went on a hiatus during the '20 - '21 pandemic, and I never kickstarted them again. It's about time! neilvn.com/tangents/photography-workshops/
I recently came across your channel because of Omar Gonzalez commenting on how great your black foamie thing works. I really enjoy your channel as you have such a fabulous way of explaining the world of light and flash… can’t thank you enough.
Yes, you will pick up color casts. But this generally isn't a problem if you shoot in RAW .. unless the surfaces that you bounce your flash off is predominantly green or blue in tone. Then you might very well have a discontinuous spectrum of light, where the orange and and other warm tones that give you good skin tone, are missing. Then color correction is tough or impossible.
Hi Neil. I have come across this video, your demonstrations and explanations are so useful and easy to follow, I now need to catch up on your other vid’s. I do have a question which I would be so, so grateful for your experience and guidance. Would you ever bounce a flash off a window?
It is entirely possible to bounce the light from your flash off a window .... IF you can bounce it at a sensible angle, and also temper your expectations. Here is an example: neilvn.com/tangents/using-on-camera-bounce-flash-outside/
@@neilvn For years I’ve used a home-made diffuser using Ikea drawer liner (a trick that you probably know about, let me know if you don’t) and I’ve been happy with the results, but using the technique that you demonstrate adds depth and contours to the image of a face that the diffuser can’t. Your photos are awesome, I hope your clients appreciate just how good those images are!
With Nikon the overall exposure compensation will affect TTL flash: With Sony and Canon, the Flash Exposure Compensation can only be set via the FEC control. With Sony, that is on the camera body and the flash. So with Nikon, the overall exposure compensation and the FEC are cumulative.
Came to learn how to use flash , stayed for the photography lesson it’s 1 of a kind , you are a true master at your craft, amazing work wow!!!. I what link for your books.
Sir this is about the third time I have viewed your excellent Video. Each time I have learned something. I have been practicing using a piece of Black Foam, and aa a piece of Red foam. I am amazed at the results of my on Camera Flash images with the foam. Thank You so much for your detailed teaching. At the end when adjusting Flash compensation. I got a little lost, are your doing the adjustment via camera or on your flash unit. I use the Godox V860IIN, speed lights on my Nikon D850 as I practice what you have taught. I truly appreciate your excellent teaching style, and creative Photography. Thank You very much.
With Nikon, the overall Exposure Compensation and the Flash Exposure Compensation are cumulative. This means (with Nikon), you can set it on either the camera body and / or the flash.
You are just awesome. Love your content so much. I have two questions: why to use black foamy thing and not white foamy thing? You know that black material absorbs light intensively and we need all the light we can have. And the second question: instead of using a rubber band and a “black” foamy thing ,is it not better to use a white glove on the left hand ? It can be used more quicker than the rubber band and the foamy thing.
Using a white card / foam, or adding a white or reflective part to the black foam would definitely make it more efficient ... HOWEVER, the idea behind the black foam is that it acts as a flag. Not a flash modifier per se. With the black foamie thing / flag, I want to control the DIRECTION of the light that I am bouncing. If I use a white card or some metallic reflector inside the flag, it would throw light up towards the ceiling again ... which is light from the lens axis again, somewhat defeating the idea behind using the black foam as a flag.
@@NickBelt -- depends on the size of the place, my flash might be close to full power anyway, when I bounce like that. Make sure you watch the entire video to see the examples.
Really enjoyed watching your Master Class, thank you very much !!! Surely, the multi million industry will not be quite happy now when you showed how to substitute expensive equipment with ....piece of black foam 😄. I just subscribed and thumbed up.
I have been through hundreds and hundreds of RU-vid videos, but none of have described such a way that you have done thankyou sir this was really worth watching and gaining some knowledge about external flash light hats off to you sir all the way from Nepal.
