Thx for the reply..❤ yo work very detailed ❤.. well my 67 has very little rust🙏🙏.. I have L99 which I will convert to LS3 also will b using 6L80e transmission..wife wants to drive to😂..have few projects such as 65 fastback/ 55 Chevy truck big window n also 1972 240z..but need 1967 camaro done first..did the transmission tunnel..thx to u..got many ideas since it was first time.. i ❤ classic cars n trucks..this is my hobby not by trade..❤ to do all my work by my self.. bro keep the good work n videos coming...iam always watching yo work 👍
excellent work... wondering if u had welded the firewall together, like to see the video, iam doing same on my 67 camaro, i can get some ideas from u,,, i leaning a lot from yo work,thx
Much appreciated. I need to resolve the front cage before I finally weld up the firewall. Will be done in early fall I hope. Your 67 pretty solid or rusted out similar to mine? Thanks again. 👍
Thank you very much for this! I am doing suspension and transmission upgrades. The 6 speed manual with suspension upgrades demand the upgrade to the wheels because the tires simply can’t handle the additional speed the car is now capable of! 69 Super Bees were gear limited to 117 MPH now with 750 HP 6 speeds and Hotchkis suspension it will blow the tires off without trying 😅 I’ll come back to ya with the final results
I personally put 15" 5 spoke polished aluminum wheels on our '90 Century (fwd), along with Cooper Cobra rwl radial tires. It was as close as I could get at the time to a Torq Thrust look. This year Century vaguely reminds me of the 66 - 67 A body GM offerings, on a bit smaller platform which was why we bought it when it was new. I'm working on a '90 Ford Ranger I dragged out of a field a couple years ago and plan on using 15"x7" aluminum 5 slot wheels on it. I'm old enough to not care what is in vogue and am reliving what I liked when I was young. Might even put whitewall 70 series radials on it, which would not have been my preference back then.
You definitely have the knack to demystify the complex and break it down into understandable and entertaining content! I’m hooked! Keep it coming - your channel will explode.
Came across your channel looking for shaved firewall ideas on my 68 Camaro vert. Color me impressed. I truly appreciate your level of detail in everything you do and it has given me the faith and encouragement to do what I wanted to do. And luckily for me I started digging and found some remaining original repairs that I intend to fix properly. My father and I bought the 68 vert when I was still in highschool. We did a frame off resto replacing the rockers, quarters, and tail pan. I learned how to weld on this car almost two decades ago. Fast forward to 2023, I lost my father in January and managed to get the car back safe and sound. It was never quite finished though. Last it sat freshly painted with the drivetrain bolted up 13yr ago roughly. Time and mice have been busy accompanied by the moist climate in Michigan. So I’m restarting the restoration all over again from what was a custom restoration mainly factory based parts and turning it into a pro touring street car. I look forward to more videos from you and more helpful tips as well as ideas. Keep up the great work!
back in the late 90s GM was still stamping out all square body P/U body parts in Mexico & they were cheaper than repro there were so many trucks still world wide it was worth it for them .... dont know if they still are
People should stay away from cheap chinese reproduction parts what they save on part cost, they will spend more in body work and time. Now if you ever do Porsche's, the main supplier has quite a bit of disparity in their parts, you can get a 1/4 panel that fits well and spend 8h replacing and the next one will fit poorly and you'll spend 12h replacing. Jaguar parts are an other headache, from the same supplier, at the same cost and part number you can get a physicaly correct part and one where features will be missing and/or of an incorrect gage, sometimes they fit sometimes they don't. On the E Type convertible 1/4 panels the shape of the repop one is so different than the original one that you can't replace just one or the car looks crooked. When you do these jobs professionnaly try to make an estimate. You can spend almost twice the time with the same parts from the same supplier or manufacturer.
I still have my 1967 RS, good news it was garage kept. The original 327 blew up in the late 70’s. All of us guys would take our cars down to the drag strip for some great fun. Today I’m replacing the parts and trying to get it back to original stock.
I put a pair of skins on my 68 and they fit pretty poorly. They were labled Golden star. They had the window rail attached so maybe same as Dynacorn. That ended up being a nightmare because it was not in the right spot. Of course I found this out after paint when I was putting the glass in. The bumpers on the glasss would not clear the rail. It took some major modifications to correct that.
Hey, I have been struggling with my 70 Camaro hydraulic clutch bracket a bit. The first one I bought from Speedtech. The hole in the bracket for the hydraulic cylinder didn't line up well with the firewall hole but after a little massage on the firewall hole, I got it to work. Then I found the angle of the cylinder rod was coming in way too low on the stock clutch pedal. Speedtech instructions say to cut off the stock GM rod, add their rod and adjuster and problems will be solved. Well that make the rod too short and where they tell you to drill the pedal is just a terrible rod angle. So I go and buy another bracket from Custom Performance and their hole lines up even worse with the firewall but the bracket angle is much better for the cylinder push rod. So, cut and weld I go with the Speedtech bracket. Maybe the DSE bracket fits for a second gen? I suspect they need to be different.
I work at a freight company n ship body parts if people knew how shitty the body parts are for their 50 120 thousand dollar cars they would stop buying new
I’m happy with the Dynacorn skins. Don’t think junkyard (at least around here) would be an option. I’ve seen some do well with aftermarket replacement full doors, they’re pricey but a timesaver. Whatever makes sense for you. 👍 😁
Pre fitting the door prior to welding is a good idea, I had to remove a skin on a sport satellite that another shop welded on and then refused to correct. It was a b¡+€h but I actually saved the skin as they didn't do a great job of installing it either. And just like that I made a new good customer with multiple cars
Thank you for doing this video. As you probably remember, I was recently getting ready to skin my driver's door. I bought an AMD panel, but the stamped holes were not exactly in the right places, especially the mirror mounting holes. After a lot of deliberation I decided to use the new panel for patches, and I'm actually glad I did. I was able to fix the rusted lower corners, but the rest of the door was in superb condition. I really hated to tear off a door skin that was 90 percent perfect, and replace it with metal that wasn't stamped correctly, even if it was new metal. In the end, I'm happy with my door, but it is nowhere near as well done as yours. Your fab skills are phenomenal, and your videos show great details that other videos lack. Again, thank you for this video. There aren't a lot of Camaro door skinning videos out there, so this has become my new favorite!!
Very good video and great points. I made sure to add to the description on the Camaro door skins that they do not come over reinforcements brackets or braces. Also be careful when using panel bond on door skins. Panel Bond makes it much harder to adjust gaps as needed when welding is required.
Another great video, Ken, a great throwback picture of the stud driving that flashy red Camaro-(could have been me in a 68 I owned👍😂😎). Question: are you concerned that the vent window frame on the passenger side is a visual obstruction?
Thanks Charlie 😂 I had a mirror there back in the day and never had an issue - don’t foresee a problem now but time will tell? How’s your build coming along?
Bought a 1969 Camaro from a close friend. He had bought alot of repo parts for goodmark. As I stated put it all together the driver's side quarter was off about an inch.Big issues became just even bigger. Stay away from goodmark stuff.
I found it can be suspect at times. This way I’m confident with my base epoxy layer. A little extra work but I’n not paying myself by the hour. 😂 Thanks for reaching out!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge from expert experience!!! I would love to do the same. I love learning new little tricks like setting the door gaps before your final weld, simple things like that are things that I love to learn. At 61 years old retiring from all Phases of high-end remodeling Construction when I was in Santa Barbara, now building my truck restoration business, but right now recovering from ankle surgery. When I was young and in construction, I saw old guys not wanting to learn new methods and new products to increase their business and productivity. I vowed that I would never be that old guy! I'm always eager to learn from the experiences of others. I feel that if I stop learning I start dying.
Working on ford gm and mopar , i find whats a good part for a mopar then for a gm or ford might be better from another company. it like they do a better job with one car but not so good with anothar.
It’s pretty sad that so much more money goes into vehicle restorations than the car cost when it was new, hell,you probably spent more fixing that one door alone than the car cost new in the showroom. It’s also a shame that the old cars that we love rusted out so bad,even in the early 80s some of these cars were only 10-15 years old and were rotted out beyond belief. Im a car guy but I would never spend the crazy amounts of money it takes to get these cars looking good again.
I’ll say. Costs are “kookoo for cocopops” crazy 🤪. I enjoy it so there’s a different value equation at play but sometimes I wonder. Appreciate the comment. Many thanks.
@@ParadiseBayCustoms I’m not even dissing on guys like you or guys that love their old classics, I think it’s great what you do. I used to have a 72 lemans back in the 80s and you could get body panels at auto wreckers for dirt cheap then get the car painted for under 2000 bucks. My buddy just had a 78 Chevy truck almost fully restored at a place, the guy had it for over a year and charged almost 50 grand Canadian for the work, it needed a lot of parts and metal work done but geez, I couldn’t do it. I gave away a perfectly straight rust free 79 blazer body to an auto wrecker 19 years ago because I couldn’t find a buyer even at only 3000 dollars, didn’t want to drive it anymore because it sucked back too much fuel. Now I wish I still had it because they’re getting good money these days, hindsight is a bitch😀
@@ParadiseBayCustoms me again. There’s a guy in my town that has a real 1970 GTO Judge that’s been sitting under tarps since at least 1988 rotting away and I asked him if he wanted to sell it back in the day because you could still get cars like that relatively cheap in the 80s. It hasn’t seen the sun in the last 36 years, I stopped in two years ago but he didn’t answer the door. It’s a shame because he’s just that much older and less inclined to do anything with the car than he was back then. One less Goat on the road🥲. Greetings from British Columbia
@@Whateva67 No kidding! Trucks, Blazers and Broncos are the new hot rods… CRAZY prices. I use to have an old IH Scout II and I’ve been looking for a good project candidate but what they want for a rusted out carcass I don’t think I’ll be getting one anytime soon. 🍻
Oh, I forgot to comment on your idea of doing full quarters now. Well, my 70 Camaro build came to the same crossroad. I chose to do full rear quarters on both sides and found a lot of rust underneath that I was able to fix with the whole quarter off. One thing that was interesting was one of the quarters was NOS and one was AMD. Both fit the same except for the door bolt holes were not the same. Fixed that.
Cool. I’ve committed to the quarter replacement but for whatever reason I’m reluctant to do it. New territory for me for sure. A good buddy thinks I’m crazy because the current ones are in good shape. Like you said, it will be great to get access to what’s underneath. 🍻
Great comparison video. Wondering what your thoughts were on using Rivet Nuts on securing the mirror bracket instead of welding nuts on the back? Thanks and keep your content coming.
Great presentation, nice work and good tips about the brackets up top. This is also the same for a lot of Mopar door skins dyncorn has brackets and AMD doesn't. Probably best to never throw away parts when you cut them off the car for this exact reason. Also with panel bond be carful on the door skins with that stuff, if you decide to use it do NOT try and weld or modify the door gaps on the skins it will not work and be a complete mess down the road. This is the reason personally I never use panel bond on skins and plug weld them in place.
As always love the attention to detail. The Lizard Skin works great. I wish I had used it on my 72 doors. I didn't find out about it until later. I'm planning on welding mine too.
Yup been burned by that on my 1969 bird. One has then brace on top the other didn’t i got one from AMD and other was OER. Sad part the AMD cost more and missing the bracket I love the lizard skin product, easy to use and clean up when done
Crazy… There’s no accountability - probably why they are all short of details. Agree, my first time using Lizard Skin, very happy with it. Appreciate the comment and the view. 👍
