I’m replacing all front steering on my G body car and STILL undecided on which brand 😢 I’m not going with AC Delco that’s certain I think proforged, their sleeves are nice too
I need to do the same, I just looked at the cost of insulated pipe, and its gone to the moon! Since its been 6 years is it sill working good? any lost of performance over the years?
great video, im having a problem with flushing my combi boiler. DOmestic side was no issues, but the main heat exchanger does not circulate water almost as if there is an internal valve that is shut off. any input would be much appreciated. thanks in advance
If the exhaust is too hot to touch....This would possibly be high-static in the air handler. When this happens the 95% efficient furnace is no longer 95% efficient. Most of the efficiency from the 80% to 95% efficient furnace comes from the secondary heat exchanger when the vapor in the flue gas condenses. When the air handler static is high the airflow is reduced thus raising the flue temperature. I would be curious, what is the Duct leakage number (total and leakage to the outside), then total external static compared to mfg data, temp rise, and watt draw on the furnace?
Airflow and duct leakage have a lot to do with total external static, which has a lot to do with the efficiency of a furnace and system efficiency. From what I think I know if the external of the pvc exhaust is 100F then it is to high.@@larsonhomeinspection9932
@@larsonhomeinspection9932 I'm a buyer! ill take a measurement tonight. its a short steep run from furnace up to chimney main pipe, only 4 foot run maybe, so length may be an issue. Thanks Larson!
You will need to add a 3/4" sweat globe valve between the hot and cold take-off ports. Water will take the path of least resistance. The coil tubing has 60ft of equivalent length, which has a higher pressure drop than the small short run of pipe between the hot-cold take-off ports. You will have to throttle the globe valve to force water through the exchanger...
Could you plummet directly to a heat exchanger connected to your hot water heater? So, you're not heating the whole homes water, just the hot water that you're Using.
I was told on the high efficiency condensate LP heaters we need to flush the outside of the heat exchangers too, is this correct? otherwise they rot out I was told, since I lost 1 unit already... I was going to buy a flush kit for the inside, what do we do for the outside of the xchanger where exposed to the heat?
Great video. Thanks much. At the end of your video you flushed any remaining vinegar in the space heating side with water from the domestic cold side. I thought I was doing this step right, however, I accidentally opened the space heating cold supply for about 30 seconds and flushed. After realizing my mistake, I shut the space heating cold supply off and proceeded to flush with the domestic cold supply. Did my mistake introduce fresh water into the space heating side?? If so, will this cause problems and what can be done about it? Thank you again!
A lot of guys say not to flush/descale the boiler side of the Combi units. They say to only do the domestic side. I'm confused? Looks to me as though the boiler side is the filthy mess that should get the most attention.
Dumb. The low grade heat from a condensing boiler is negligible and the rubber fernco fittings are illegal on a boiler exhaust stack. Put the shower drain economizer on the shower drain and you will actually save energy. 100% of your hot shower drain water is going out to the sewer.
I have a 250/150 navien combo.I cleaned out the condensate filter.The condensate fill tube is located against the back wall.How do you fill it since the rubber stopper is against the back wall of the unit?Thanks for your help.Randy
WoW!!! I did not know about changing the oil on CP impact. That gives me something to do today. Having a CP impact/ratchet kit for way over 10 years and impact still works.Still does the job, but can tell it's getting weak. Cant wait to see if this will help. Plus take a good look at the ratchet that is not working?
I put Moog inner and outer tie rods on, along with a new Moog idler arm and pitman arm and put Moog ball joints on a 04 Suburban 1500 4x4 about almost 5 years ago and they are still working great with having tight tolerances and I use my Suburban off road hear and there in AZ on dirt roads and rocky roads and driven through streams with no problems with the Moogs parts. My Suburban also has a 2" lift with Bilstein 5100 series shocks. When I do oil changes on my Suburban, I always grease up the grease certs on the front end. As long as you service the suspension parts to make sure they are good with new grease I think parts will last longer instead of the none serviceable parts, but I also believe it also depends on the part, if it was engineered with higher quality parts or cheap parts and along with how hard you drive your vehicle or how hard the driving road conditions are on if the part will last long or not. I have heard good and bad about every manufacturer on how their parts are even good and bad about some oem parts these days being made cheaper than what they use to be. Personally if I could afford it, I would put kryptonite suspension parts on that are for trucks because they are way over engineered and don't break but for now I will stick with Moog parts since they have worked for me and my application so far.
Yeah that's not doing anything dude. Water only flows when when you're using water and then its less than half id say closer to 2/10's of the water flowing to your tank that flows through that heat exchange and that's why its hot to the touch. You're much better off with a tempering tank made out of an indirect water heater with a pump to move water or a thermal fluid through that heat exchange. This setup you have is doing next to nothing and I'm sure if you take a before and after temperature reading of your main line you'll see that there is little to no difference at all. Not trying to shit on your idea I do something similar but this is just not an effective way to recycle heat.
That’s cool. We have a 96% furnace. We have a 20foot pvc exhaust for it and it doesn’t feel super warm near the end, so I imagine a lot of the heat radiates into the cold basement. It’s the only thing stopping me from putting an air to air metal heat exchanger on it.
