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The temperature of water is not crucial when mixing liquid chemistry. It is more of an issue with powders, that may not dissolve correctly, if the water is too cold. Those accordion bottles are impossible to clean. There will be quite lot of residue in the bottle you store your color developer. And you are paying a premium price for those bottles. Buy your bottles from any store selling equipment for laboratories instead. Bottles cost almost nothing bought this way, and they are designed for chemistry. Same goes with measuring glasses, funnels, thermometers, etc. In photo stores you are paying a premium price for these. Also, the "stabilizer" in modern versions of C-41 is actually a final rinse. It is like Photo-Flo, but it contains also an antifungal and antibacterial agent to prevent mold and bacteria growing in emulsion during storage. It should not be washed off by Photo-Flo, which lacks this component. This stuff is meant for black and white only, where silver will prevent growth in the emulsion. Stabilizer, such as it was used before, for stabilizing the dyes, is no more used in C-41, but the old name remains.
Eversince I watched this video, I bought this lens with no regret at all. I am using it on both my D850 and occasionally on my Sony A7r5 body. The image quality is awsome, the color rendering and out of focus are very pleasing to me and I really enjoy the close focusing capability and quality as well.
Sorry b+w is five times easier than any color process, particularly when using Cinestill DF96 which is one bottle, one step, no mixing, no working solution bottles, no discard bottles, no distilled water, no heating, when you're done developing you pour it back in the exact same bottle! I mean all you need is a tank, The bottle of DF96, and a funnel. It's true the normal three chemical black and white film is a little more involved but certainly no worse than any color process. The main advantage of black and white is you pretty much never need to warm the chemicals you can always do it at room temperature. I mean the Cinestill color kit is very good and pretty simple but still. You cannot beat one bottle one step room temperature! So yeah if someone has never developed film before I would 100% tell them to use black and white film and DF96, just to get experience with the whole process and equipment.
Looking for a film camera from the year I was born, 1983 but everyone on YT is saying this was 1982. When you go on Nikon’s website it says this was 1983 and the FM2 was 1982
Thanks for the review of the Voigtländer. I also used quite a bit of 50 mm lenses and around from Leica and others and do not think Leitz/Leica is enough out of this world to call the Voigtländer being only 80% of the Leica-lens, even a current Summilux Asph. It's not a definite scale, I know, but 80% to me sounds quite harsh, as if it was just another normal-lens. In my book, many of such lenses deserve that rating. From what you are showing I'd rather rate it 90-95% of a current Leica-lens and better than some of the old crop from Wetzlar.
Mac, I know this comment is being posted 5 years later but thought I would post it anyway. An excellent in-depth "how to" video for any beginner. Just one comment and one suggestion. First, the comment, glad you use Photo Flo on your color negatives. You're the only RU-vidr I've seen using it on color film. Second, the suggestion, when loading film using a changing bag, use a leader retrieval tool to pull out the film leader, cut the film leader off and start the film on the plastic spool BEFORE placing in the changing bag. That first few inches of film was already exposed to light when loading it into the camera and does not have any images on it so it's safe to do that procedure in daylight. This procedure eliminates the hardest part of loading film in a changing bag.
You’re disappointed at the beginning because the m5 doesn’t compare to a Nikon f. Why would you go from a more accurate system (Nikon f and f2) and go to a more expensive less accurate machine? You don’t even have a 100% viewfinder. I’d shoot Nikon and the Leicas for a good 1-2 years and print in your darkroom. See which pictures are more accurate as you framed them in camera, and which has better focus on the print
I owned this lens for several years and completely agree with your findings. I remember a review with samples showing it was Nikons sharpest lens at f2 and sharper than the famed Noctilux 1.0 at all identical stop-values. But more often than not the CA and and the veiling flare took away much from that sharpness. Add to that a busy bokeh at f2 and swirly-effects at wider stops and you get quite a difficult beast to work with. But when everything worked out, man, what a lens! Stopped down to f5.6 it was razor-sharp into the finest detail even on the D800E.
how is that Zeiss lens so huge?? It's a 35mm. That thing looks like an 85 or longer. That's pretty annoying since I wouldn't mind getting some zeiss stuff for my Nikon. No reason a 35 millimeter lens should be that long. The Voigtlander F-mount is very small in comparison. (they have a 20mm and a 40mm that are both basically pancake lenses. Not sure why the zeiss one is so big)
It's not only worth buying... I'll argue it's the best manual SLR ever made (The FM3a probably is... but it's also a vanity camera released in the early 2000's and is 800 dollars and is exactly the FE2 but with all mechanical shutter). The Olympus OM2n and the Nikon FE2 are probably the best manual SLR's ever produced. There's going to be some subjective opinions... but those are the best of the best. Aperture priority. Exposure comp. The Nikon has 1/4000th shutter speed. The Olympus is incredibly small with small and super sharp lenses. I'd take the Nikon FE2 as my all time favorite... with the Olympus as my 2nd. (And anyone saying the FM2 is the greatest... NO, the FE2 is all that, but with aperture priority and exposure comp. And anyone saying the F3 is the best... NO... it's the FE2 with a slower max shutter speed. The FE2 reigns supreme.)
Photos are good, i am not sure about the film but has its charm for sure, and i like the way you explained when you were taking photos. Please tell us your thought process when you are taking photos, is very helpful.
Wouldn't it be easier to cut the film before removing from the cartridge and get it on the reel and then put it in the bag? You should have enough film leader to do this without exposing any film.
Reminds me a little of the long ago gone Kodak Color Infrared (E-6) film that would give green plants as blood red. You did better than I did with this film - I shot on a cloudy day but yours in bright sun gives better color saturation. Thanks.
Globe and Miami are set to become future penturbian towns in Gila county. I read of this years ago in Dr. Jack Lesinger's book "Penturbia", which speaks of a future population trend, where people will choose to migrate to towns such as this, because of the historical architecture, amongst other reasons. Great photography, and vlog, I am a first time viewer.
in its day it was certainly not underrated but the best and most high-tech there was if you didn't want to lug an F4 :D inflation-adjusted price was something like 2500$ today-money for the body. I still have mine.
If your F3 burns batteries when just switched on, it needs fixing. But when putting it away and something pushes on the shutter-button in your bag it will also drain power, maybe it was that? Same with Leica M6 btw which you have to set on B to prevent this.
I tend to agree with everything said. Great camera. The F3 and the FM3a also good options. If money was no object i'd go with the FM3a... but it's like freaking 6 times the price of the FE2 and they're basically the same camera. I think there's too many "purists" or "leica fanboys" who think the FM3a is the greatest mechanical SLR ever made... which may be is true... but the FE2 is THE SAME CAMERA except you can't shoot in all shutter speeds without the battery. Not sure if that one aspect makes it a thousand dollar camera. Anyway, nice vid.
“The SLR camera underrated or otherwise” feels meaningless. A film body is just that: a light tight box that carries the film. The factors that affect the image, 1. Film emulation and surface area (size, the bigger the better) 2. Lens choice 3. light and 4. the thing that presses the shutter. Light box difference can affect ease of use, all else is sophistry.
The only difference it it and a FE2 is that the FE2 has an electronic shutter, and the FM3A has a Mechanical one. Oh. I forgot to mention the big difference. The price!
The FM3a only uses the mechanical shutter if you are shooting it in manual. Otherwise it reverts to the electronic to get specific shutter speeds that aren't necessarily in full stops (like 1/315th of a second e.g.) Basically you're spending a LOT more money over the FE2 in case you run out of batteries... which is not going to be often. [And to get a camera that is about 20 years newer.]
