I am a recovering NASA engineer who thoroughly enjoys technically complex (expensive) endeavors. One such endeavor is long-range shooting. This channel is here to help convey what I've learned over the years, and do so in a manner that covers the underlying reasons why things happen, not just that they happen. If anyone has any requests, please let me know, and I will do my best to make them happen. I love a good challenge.
I citric acid...dish detergent. Moatly does well. However...the last part to clean is inside the neck. This is most important to me for consistency. I dip my clean necks in redding dry neck lube. I dont want some clean..some wirh a bit of carbon.. some wirh alot. After cleaning i rinse and place. In dehydrator. Im not too fussed about the tarnish thing... Im interested in the boretech...but...dont want to have to manually wipe out every inner neck. Does the hornady remove all carbon from inner neck? Did you try a combination of both? Thanks
It's a tough call, to be honest, and I've been close to getting a 300 Norma barrel spun up on numerous occasions. In the end, it came down to a combination of economics and practicality. The Norma certainly outperforms the PRC by a bit, but it's also a little overbore (shorter barrel life), and the cost per round is higher. On the practicality side of things, there is a fairly narrow margin where the performance increase makes a tangible difference - objectively, I'd put that at north of maybe 1800-1900 yards. The recoil difference is also a thing. With all that said, I've given a lot of thought to getting a barrel cut in 300 Norma for my single-shot ELR rig (currently barreled in 37XC). But I've also given a lot of thought to doing it in 338AI - too many choices!
Brother that’s an awesome set up but you must have been a firefighter that I worked with back in the day.. Can you say Over Engineering? It’s a target stand, you can do the same thing with rebar, baling wire! And leave it there so you don’t have to go set it up every time!
I just got it, and my first two trips to the range with it are also the first two I did with my 300. Area 419 offers a similar setup for sale, I just happened to have all the RRS parts on hand to do this, so decided to give it a go. I'm kind of hooked on this setup. I actually don't mind being the crash-test dummy for this - though I'll think twice before using it on my 375.
Great video. Regarding your tenon threads... you don't really want/need them tight. The shoulder and thread faces do the work. Tight threads will gall.
I'll start with the gain twist. Essentially, gain twist rifling eases the bullet rifling. My barrel is a 9:8 gain. Instead of being a sudden slam at 8 right away, it starts spinning slower, which is less impact on the bullet, but also less impact coming through the rifle to the shooter. Essentially, it should somewhat lessen felt recoil. Unfortunately, I picked a twist rate that I will not need (8). I ordered this barrel during the pandemic when I was worried about bullet supply (my go-to Berger 230s were unobtanium) and I wanted to be able to shoot solids. But then the 220 Bergers came out, and I realized a HATE solids, and it wasn't an issue any more - now I wish I would have gone 10:9. Supposedly, it also allows for slightly higher pressures since the bullet will not be slowed as suddenly when it hits the lands, and thus will not build pressure as quickly. One thing I have yet to understand is the diminishing return with going to a higher twist differential. I spoke with Bartlein about this and they said they see minimal, if any, benefit when you go to more than 1 gain (e.g. 9:8 or 8:7). As for LH twist (for right-handed shooters), since the barrel is imparting left-hand angular momentum to the bullet, the bullet is imparting the opposite - right-hand angular momentum to the rifle. In theory, this should push the cheek riser away from the shooter's cheek, and push the stock into the shooter's palm, yielding better control. I've only got a hundred rounds down the barrel so far, but between the 220s (vs. 230s), the gain twist, and the LH twist, the felt recoil is noticeably more manageable. The brake is likely a wash with my previous brakes (I've used the Hellfire Match and APA Lil' Bastard on this rifle previously).
@@TwoMinutestoTarget awesome and thank you. Have you tested right hand twist against left-hand twist and not using a muzzle break? Or have you at least kept the same muzzle brake on both barrels while testing?
@@justice1327 To that the right way, you'd need virtually identical (or actually identical, but with a barrel change) with more test equipment than I currently have.
Wow. This explains why my rifle has been jumping up and to the side so badly. I put a much heavier wood stock on it, went from 7.5 lbs to 13 lbs. I think I was shooting soft shouldered by instinct when it was lighter because of how much impulse was being transferred into my shoulder. Once I got a heavier stock, it wasn't as sharp so I brace up too much. Also didn't know about the shoulders being in line behind the rifle. Thanks dude, subbed, and going to watch the other videos.
If you want to get better at managing recoil, going heavy will actually do the opposite. When I shoot my 6 BRA for any extended amount of time without shooting one of my more heavy recoiling rifles, my fundamentals go to crap. It's one of the reasons I have a lighter, short-barreled 308 for practice - it makes dealing with wind and recoil a little tougher, which in turn makes you better.
I do not understand, while watching ultra-high speed photography, you can see the bullet completely exit the end of the barrel before there is any discernable movement of the barrel whatsoever. Thoughts?
Hi there. Thanks for the video. Just a question: a quick calc on the bolt face area on the casehead says the 8x68s should have around 93% of the real 300 prc case's area - would this not cause any bolt thrust / excessive force problems? Have you perhaps seen any early pressure signs because of this? Thanks!
Wow. This is the video(s) I've spent days looking for on managing my recoil for PRS shooting. Really appreciate the work you put into this. I think I've found the answer to my problem and the best possible solution. Thank you!
I bought Lapua brass, i would NEVER use a case head different than what it was designed for or at least be the proper size for the caliber/chamber bolt combo. Hornady cases are not so bad either, I just load a reduced load when I fire form that batch to my chamber to season/harden the primer pocket up, then I have got as many as 8+ firings on those cases so far. To many guys get new brass and load them right up to max on first firing, and this allows the primer pocket and case head to expand more than if fired with a reduced load and allowing the lower part of the case to work harden some till loading the case to full potential.
Great demomstration and information.Im so glad Isawthis in shoulder tension.Growing up was always taught to hold it tight.Since Ive been shooting prone now Ive seen its so correct to hold it tight.Thanks