Gonna guess the cut wire and bulb are in parallel, but join together later and go through another load like a light or heater(?) Before the cut, some current is going through the bulb but not enough to light it. Most goes through the wire. After the cut, all the current must go through the bulb, which lights it.
I never got a chance to view any of your previous "you're gonna get someone killed videos" but I believe you. Nonetheless I've been shocked a handful of times from floating neutrals that became live, multiwire branch circuits and 240 volt circuits controlled by two single pole breakers without identified handle ties. I've also ran across 208V three phase circuits with 3 single pole breakers without identified handle ties, or a double pole and single pole breaker, but avoided being shocked because I used my meter to test from phases A-B, B-C, C-A, A-ground, B-ground, C-ground, and repeat the test with the meter set to DC volts. Depending on the situation I'll also temporary ground the conductors after completing LOTO if my gut tells me something is screwy in the building such that the conductors could become energized dispite following all LOTO procedures to the letter. The point I'm trying to make is, by following time tested safety procedures and using common sense, no matter how much it may seem like overkill, safe work practices will become second nature and over 9 out of 10 workplace injuries and fatalities on the job can be avoided.
this is why you shouldn't attempt to read the NEC if you don't have good comprehension skills. and beyond that, if your comprehension skills aren't well enough to read a book and make sense of it? then I wouldn't trust you to run / hang wire, know about derating, doing actual hook up, bonding conductors, neutral/ground connection at the main. too much misunderstanding in this feild from guys saying "I've been doing this 20 years! you wouldn't believe the complexity of hospital circuits!" but still argue the NEC and their lack of understanding of it. gets me everytime 🤣
Cute, but... Cycling them in the other order would not work, as switch #3 must be off for lights 1 and 2 to get power. If #3 is turned on, neither #2 nor #1 can get any power. So the night watchman has to walk his rounds in the proper direction! Got a way to make it work in either direction?
Nice demo dude, will certainly help some apprentices wrap their head around multi-switched circuits. In the UK we call the end switches 2-way and all middles are intermediates.
@@bjc688 lol no how silly....some other countries call it a 2 way and intermediate. But the correct term is 3 way and 4 way . ZERO place used the term two way and three way. But fyi two way is not the correct term and makes no sense as far as electrical schematics would go. A homeowner or diy types can use that term but no electrician should
Just able to shut lights off from different locations 3-way would be 2 different locations and with a 4-way and 2, 3-way switches you can turn on/ off from different locations in a room
Work for a utility. Started out in the line shop. Hated making up taps under load. Didn’t want to seem like a punk when I was on the pole or in the bucket, so we’d never pull the meter. But I knew that second leg was picking up any 240 load that was on before the power went out. Stove, heater, ac, whatever. Didn’t like it. Lol
3 way in US = 2 way in Europe, and 4 way in US = 'Intermediate" in Europe....just as a faucet is called a tap in Europe....same thing, just different terminology.
@@shamrockshore6308 Aussie Electrician here We call them 2 way or intermediate switches You can have an almost unlimited number of intermediate switches between 2 2-way switches Example If you had a 10 story building the lights in a stairwell could be controlled by a switch on each level
@shamrockshore6308 You'll find it's 2way and intermediate in most of the world. It's only the US that has such backwards electrics. Still in the stone age. Decades behind the rest of the world and struggle with basic terminology.
Thank you i fucking finally understand what the fuck a neutral is. everyone is so fucking stupid when answering simple questions. And thats why you have fucking 110v cause its fucking half. Now its 3 phase bullshit.
That then new rule 4 years ago must've flew right over my head lol. To be expected though, as in the 9 years I've been in the trade have yet to run into a situation where I need to re-identify an ungrounded conductor in a cable assembly as a neutral. In fact I've never worked with 14/4 or 12/4 either, the company I work has never ordered it. In the probably half dozen situations I've needed 14/4 or 12/4, (wiring a bath fan/light/heater combo with 3 separate switches) I just run two runs of 14/2 or 12/2 NM (never AC or MC cable due to the potential of inductive heating) under the same staple so as to minimize EMF and into the same knockouts with ½ NM connector. Use the black for the fan, phase tape the black and white of the 2nd cable to red and blue respectively, and use red for light and blue for heater. One legitimate situation for re-identifying the blue of a 12/4 NM to white that comes to mind, would be in rooms with 120 volt baseboard heaters with built-in receptacle on the heater, which is not permitted to share the heater circuit for obvious reasons. The homerun could run to the heater, with the white-red for the heater circuit. The re-identified blue and black could be used for the built-in receptacle outlet, which can then jump to the general purpose lighting and receptacle loads in the room, in which case you might as well take advantage of the 12/4 and wire the general purpose circuits in the room and perhaps an adjacent room with 12/2 so you can use a 20 amp breaker.
Prior to 2020 we could re-identifiy a colored white to white and use it as neutral but only under specific conditions. Those conditions were removed on the 2020 NEC
