Filmmaker and photographer based out of Pittsburgh, PA. I have spent the past decade traveling and working professionally and am extremely grateful to be doing what I love. I want to share what I've learned, my techniques, ideas and tips that have helped me to be successful so that you might be able to do the same.
Hello Jason. Thumbs up and subbed. Quick question for you. I'm a new photographer, and I currently have a 50mm RF, 85mm RF and a 24-105mm *which I'm looking to sell. Shooting style is mainly portraits 95%. I do need a wide lens. Should I spring for the 24mm? (All non L lens) tks! Greetings from Bawwston. 🤙
Appreciate that!! Man, that’s a tough one, I love the 24mm but it can feel a little wide at times, if I wanted a lens to complement a 50mm and 85mm, I think I would probably go 35mm. It’s such a versatile focal length for capturing, portraits, street photography, travel, some landscape work. I have a video on this channel about it if you want to see some examples, but I think that would be the lens I would go with! Since you have a 24-105mm, use tape of something to lock the lens at 24mm and shoot around, then do the same at 35mm and force yourself to try out the two focal lengths and see which one you like more! Hope that helps!
@JasonPischke hey. Thanks for the quick reply. I'll definitely have to check out your video on the 35mm. I was also looking at this lens as well. But since it's so close to the 50mm. I'm on the fence to selling the 24-105 for the 24mm but now you have me thinking of getting the 35mm. Thoughts?
@@armani007E55 With real estate you are going to want the widest lens you can get your hands on. I would start out with the RF 15-30mm f/4.5-6.3 and then upgrade to L-Series glass if you find yourself getting a lot of work in the field.
Thank you Jason! I have not found any other video that explains the canon log formats and color spaces in such clear concise way. Now I can make an informed decision when selecting the right settings in my Canon R6
That’s amazing to hear!! It’s challenging because there is no such thing as the perfect settings, hopefully knowing why you should use one profile over another you can get the most out of the R6!
I guess it kind of depends on your needs. If you are shooting during the day and need a small, light, walk around lens for photography, this little guy will be just fine. If you want to shoot video, or shoot in darker environments or at night, having no IS at all could be a bit tricky.
I wish I could have tested them with the same exact lens, but overall I was super impressed with the T100 given the price point and age of the camera body.
That’s still a good focal length to have!! When I first bought my R6, the only lens I had for months was a 50mm. Lenses also generally outlast camera bodies, so having the 35mm, if you upgrade down the line to an R8, RP, or similar FF body it will pair nicely with them!
@@JasonPischke true in principal, but the optics are not the same as having a 50mm. That is - the actual 50mm on the R50 is horribly wide, but has the same creamy bokeh as it does on a full frame. The 35mm on the other hand, does not. It produces a lifeless two-dimensional/flat image on the R50. Updating the camera is the answer, you’re on the money there 👍🏻👌🏻
@@wolfiemedia The difference you are referring to is that a 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera (1.6x) is acting like a 80mm full frame equivalent and so the compression and background separation is going to be more pronounced. As you go up in focal length you get more defined separation between subject and background, as you go wider, that separation gets less noticeable. Crop sensor camera's also by nature capture less light than full frame. A f/2.8 lens on a full frame camera will resolve more like a f/4 on a crop sensor camera and so this also can contribute to that flatter feel you are noticing with your images.
I think both have their place, I typically shoot 24fps because it conveys the speed and movement of the drone better. When you shoot slow motion footage, like 60fps slowed down to 24, it has a cool slow motion look, but you loose a lot of movement.
@@JasonPischke good feedback. I’m only just getting into drones now and the mini 4 is my first purchase. Looking forward to learning how to fly and learning how to get some good captures. Thanks again. And great video
Unfortunately this was a bit of a last minute test and I wasn’t able to get a EF-RF adaptor in time to test the same lens on both camera’s. It is something I try to do though, in an upcoming video with the R8 I use the same lens for every test!
Nice video! But I wonder what you mean by being able to de-register the drone in Europe? We don't register drones, but we do mark them with our personal Operator ID. This is something we can't dodge with the Mini 4 Pro. We don't need a licence or take a test for the sub 250g drones however. So, still unsure what you meant by that.
Phillip Bloom did an excellent video outlining upcoming 2024 classification changes and what goes into declassifying the Mini 4 Pro. Highly recommend checking that out. Obviously I am based in the US and don’t know a ton about EU drone regulation, but from what I have read starting Jan. 1, 2024 drones under 250 grams in the EU will have a C0 label that restricts the height limit to 120m. Mini 4 Pro’s bought before Jan. 1, 2024 can be declassified through DJI allowing them to be flown in the A1 Sub Category allowing them to be flown above that limit. It’s all very complicated, thats why I would recommend that Phillip Bloom video for more details!
oh my what a great video. I just found your channel today and now that i seen this video of your now i want a drone even more lol. I was thinking of getting a drone but NOWWWW i want one sooooo bad lol. Great video my friend your awesome. Thanks for this video ;)
Appreciate that!! Glad you found the channel and have been enjoying it!! Lots of drone stuff already on the channel and more to come! The Mini series has been a favorite of mine to fly as of late!
I have noticed certain movements make it show up more than others. I know for myself if I am going to be shooting at 15mm, I am extra careful when it comes to introducing any shake. It’s unfortunate for sure, hopefully Canon will fix it in a future Mark II release of this lens.
Picked up my mini 4 pro to scout back country lines in the E. Sierra and many other places and it has not disappointed yet. Recall flying it from a saddle near June lake all the way up into the San Joaquin couloir and was able to scout an avalanche zone and drop into a chute before losing connection and the drone came right back fiming the route back until video link was regained. This thing rules if you know how to use it (not to mention the follow modes etc)
That is awesome!! It’s so cool to hear how other people are using it, the range of the new O4 system has been impressive. Probably no shortage of scenic views out your way!
@@JasonPischke no doubt, the range is truly astonishing and it's ability to fly through pretty tough winds at Mt tops (14k+ft a few times). Not to mention the super stable video/photos in said conditions 🍻
Appreciate that!! I have a friend with a Mavic Pro 2 as well who now is selling his Pro 2 after seeing it and messing around with some of the footage from it haha
A mixture of the phones excellent OIS and just being very intentional with my movement when getting shots. The shots off the top I probably shot 3 or 4 times making sure the movement was smooth in camera. I will use warp stabilizer if I absolutely need to, but I try not to overuse post stabilization as it feels sorta robotic.
I’m right there with you shooting on the iPhone 14 Pro, I enjoy the 15 Pro and love the log image out of it, but Apple really needs to work on the pipeline for offloading those huge files. Being able to shoot to an SSD is one answer, but I don’t love having to always have a cable plugged in.
I got the Mini 3 Pro about a month before the launch of the new series and I really wish that I had waited. The 10-Bit Log and the Waypoints are features that I would love to have.
I have not flown a Mini 3 Pro, but have watched countless video’s about it when I was looking to buy one before the Mini 4 Pro was announced and the footage looks incredible, especially considering the price and size. 10bit is nice, but you still have one heck of a drone!
I don’t have any Mini 3 Pro batteries to test it myself, but I have seen and heard of people using the Mini 3 Pro batteries in the 4. It will give you a warning that the drone is over 250g since the Mini 3 Pro batteries are slightly heavier, but other than that it seems to work just fine!
@@thomza It appears DJI has added Mini 4 Pro compatibility to the Mini 3 and Mini 3 Pro batteries on their web store. This should mean that all systems should work normally with it. store.dji.com/product/dji-mini-3-pro-intelligent-flight-battery-plus?vid=114171
@@JasonPischke The Mini 3 Pro batteries definitely work in the Mini 4 Pro. However, they do activate and broadcast RID. I just tested and confirmed it last night. This is due to the Mini 3 Pro batteries putting the 4 Pro over 250g. It's barely over 250g but still activates RID.
I have an Samyang 14mm for my R5 and it is extremely sharp even at the edges. But I hate to change everytime my 35mm, 28mm and 14mm. I want only one lense, for vacation and for wedding/events. And on second body my rf 85mm 1.2.
That is always a hard decision we have to make. You either get that wonderful sharpness and shallow depth of field from a prime, or you trade some of that for the versatility and convenience of a zoom. The RF 15-35mm is still basically welded to the end of my camera, but it is tempting to fill out the bag with a bunch of primes in similar focal lengths!
Although I have the Air 3, many things are the same on the Mini 4 Pro. I personally set my obstacle avoidance to Brake as opposed to Bypass. I think Brake is far more safe and I’d rather lose the shot than lose the drone.
I went back and forth for months between the Air 3 and Mini 4 Pro, I am super happy with the Mini 4 Pro but do run into the occasion situation where having a telephoto would be nice. Brake is probably the safer solution out of the two, I have yet to really test the limits of obstacle avoidance and really hope I don’t ever need to haha
@@JasonPischke If one can afford it I highly recommend the Air 3. I still have my first drone my Mini 2. But the three reasons I opted for the Air 3 were the tele camera as you stated, better wind resistance then the Mini and larger and longer lasting batteries.
@@ronaldwilson9525 All valid reasons! I am glad you have been enjoying the Air 3, I still fly a lot with the Air 2S and enjoy the larger form factor for stability like you said. Coming from the Mavic Pro as my personal drone, pretty much anything was going to be an upgrade haha
All handheld. I shot with the Canon R6 and the RF 15-35mm f/2.8 and RF 70-200mm f/2.8. For stabilization I used in camera IBIS mixed with lens IS, but no digital or enhanced IS. Hope that helps!!
How is this not more popular! This is a very helpful and well-made video! I’m deciding whether to get the 14 pro or 15 pro in 2024. Thanks for the help!
Haha I appreciate that!! I am glad you found it helpful!! I have found video’s about Apple products for me never do well because of the volume of video’s produced around their products, but I enjoy making them regardless!
Great Vid, I would have loved to have CLOG2 in R5C, but its not there even though we are quite the Sensor can handle it (And I don't want to shoot 8K Raw). I think this is where Canon Really messed up and didn't keep up with other Cameras. This was basically forcing anyone who wanted more out of their camera to buy the R5C or the C70, but those cameras are expensive. But then Sony released the a6700 and the ZV-E1 and made the only way to move forward would be to consider Sony. I bought the ZV-E1 being the highest Dynamic range Camera for the Money, and yes it can outdo my Canon R6 any day. I'm still waiting for Canon's next move in hopes that the R5Mii is better then the ZV-E1 for video. But overall I'm more of a R6 guy and if a killer r6Miii came out then i'd likely be all in.
Completely agree, it has been a frustrating 2 years sitting through camera releases that give us no significant bump in sensor performance. The way it sounds right now, the R1 and R5 Mark II are both going to be using significantly updated sensors and will have the ability to shoot CLog 2. I was disappointed in the R6 MarkII, the R6 hits such a sweet spot between price to performance, but to bring very little improvement over the original R6, it didn’t feel like a true successor in my opinion. I’m hoping the R5 Mark II is that big leap we need to see from Canon.
Comes down to personal preference, I personally enjoy shooting with the 35mm just a touch more. It might be because I am so use to seeing everything shot with phones being 24mm, but they both are great lenses optically, both stabilized and both have macro functionality.
Wszystkie nagrania zostały wykonane w CLog3 i poddane korekcie kolorów po montażu. Niestety, nie ma możliwości korzystania wyłącznie z stabilizacji obiektywu w aparacie Canon R6. Stabilizacja działa albo dla obu, albo dla żadnego z systemów.
This is a great lens for 30 megapixel or less cameras but from what I understand, the resolving inadequacies show through once you pair it with a higher megapixel R5.
This is good information to know! I have only tested it on my R6, but could see how an R5 might resolve more of the imperfections in the glass. Thank you for the insight!!
Completely agree with you! The 25L is more of a day pack which would benefit from that, the 35L is more of a multi day pack and should have all of the pockets.
That is amazing to hear!! The drone was powered on, it was just sitting on a shelf. Some of the modes like the panorama photo modes do require the drone to be in the air, I would recommend just bringing the drone up to a low hover and setting those up.
I put my video settings in pro and then go into auto press on the white balance auto and back off. In auto, I get my colour profile and then hold on the screen to lock it in. Can't seem to lock it in on pro.
I typically set up white balance and color profile in the main camera menu and leave it at 5600k unless I am flying indoors. On a normal flight I only adjust shutter and ISO, if you prefer to use auto, the Mini 4 Pro’s auto is pretty smooth, but still would say set the white balance to 5600 and make any small corrections in post.
Check out the comment I left on your other question for a more detailed answer, but I would often find 50mm on a crop sensor camera a little too tight. It comes out to around 80mm full frame equivalent which is pretty tight indoors.
In most of your videos you mention using the lenses on FF cameras. What prime lens would you recomend for a crop canon camera? I'm loking for a prime with good quality and large aperture to go with my kit 18-150 lens. I 'm not sure of the 50mm fits because it would be around 80mm in a crop and it may be too long. What do you say?
When I use to shoot a lot with cropped sensor cameras I often found 50mm to be a touch too tight. I bought a 35mm f/1.8 and loved it for portrait work and shot all of the time with it. I have been shooting more and more with the 35mm on full frame and might enjoy this focal range even more than 50mm, so I would recommend checking out the RF 24mm f/1.8 or if that is too expensive, the RF28mm f/2.8 can be found for under $300. Also something to look at is Sigma recently announced that they will be producing RF lenses for July, they will be 16mm, 23mm, 30mm, 56mm all at f/1.4 so it might be worth waiting to see how those perform!
@@urielg8761 did you go with the 35mm? I also have the r7 with 18-150 kit and went with the 24mm f1.8 since that will be around 35mm on APSC. Wondering if the 35mm f1.8 would be better!
@@nicholasbarszcz1100 Hi. No, i have thr 18-150 for now. I will use it at different focal lengths and try to find which one prime i should choose. Good luck!
You are going to love it! It’s a great combination of being small and compact while also being able to get incredible footage and very long flight times.
Based research I really like this lens and it would sit well on my R7. Problem I have is the kit lens that came with the R7 is surprisingly good. It cover 18-150 and though a higher aperture it kills it for street photography. But the 2.8 for low light is a nice feature to have.
An awesome benefit of RF-S lenses are the versatility and wide focal range you can get with them. I love my RF 15-35mm f/2.8, but coming from something like a 18-150mm, you are going to feel very limited on range. For the price, I would maybe take a look at the RF-S 10-18mm. It will round out your kit nicely and complement the 18-150mm, but also give you that 16mm full frame equivalent fov for wide landscape shots!
@@JasonPischke thanks for your reply and advice. Your answer is completely logical as Spock might say. I have the 10-18 and although it’s cheap plastic, it provides great wide angle shots. So yes, I have covered off allot here with the kit lens included. I am however a sucker for larger aperture lenses as I love to experiment and get creative in low light. Since the R7 is maybe good, but not great in low light, I wanna open it up rather than buying a R5 or R6 which I also considered (as they are both a bit better for low light stuff than the R7). But dropping this amount of dough. I figure, I’m still learning the R7 and any new R series lens I get will work with a R5 or 6 down the road. In the meantime I get to overcome the low light challenges of the R7. If I can get half decent at that, it should be a more usable upgrade for the next R body I get. I’m not a pro, so I may find a lens such as the 15-35 2.8 may do me well for low light even on the R7, which has such a good sensor, that it actually doesn’t shoot badly in low light at all, it’s just full frame is generally better. Sorry for the long winded answer. This photography gear stuff becomes a passion when mixed with the satisfaction of actually composing and making beautiful pictures. I am no expert, but have had a camera in my hand since I was a child (late 50’s now). And it still thrills me to have nice equipment. But ultimately it’s the person operating it that makes the biggest difference. Anyways, nice video and thank you for doing this.
@@andyp7787 Something you may want to keep and eye on is very recently Canon has announced that they will be allowing Sigma and Tamron the rights the build RF mount lenses. Sigma in particular has announced that they plan to bring to market 6 RF lenses by July, all built for APSC camera bodies, like the R7, and will more than likely be priced much lower than native Canon glass.
@@JasonPischke Thank you for that information Jason. I just got my RF 15-35 2.8 and am in heaven. This is such a fabulous lens on my R7. Although I’ve only had it a short time, the low light capability is unbelievable. Sharp and open. I don’t get wowed easily but this has done that. It’s a beast though. Heavy and quite large. But I can see me getting allot of use from it. I want to thank you for the information on the 3rd party lenses as I didn’t know that. I’m certainly looking forward to it as both are good manufacturers and sometimes they come out with a beauty that beats native lenses. The lower cost will be welcomed obviously too, as some of Canon R lenses are so expensive. Most people can’t drop nearly 3K (or more) for a brand new lens and can’t experience such a luxury. It’s an unfair world sometimes, but that’s where the Sigmas and Tamrons of the world help to balance the scales. I hope they are priced well and make some fantastic models. Canon needs competition in regard to their RF stuff, or one day they may need to call the Apple lawyers and ask them to come to court with them. Keep these great videos going sir!
