John has been shooting since he was a kid and is now a middle aged man. He likes shooting rifles and handguns, reloading, bullet casting and the outdoors. He prefers to call reloading ammunition cartridges “Hand Loading” because it sounds more elegant and sophisticated.
Being an “Amateur Ballistic Engineer” he realizes reloading and hand loading are essentially the same but likes to think of “Hand Loading” as being done carefully with precision and “Reloading” more about cranking out ammo. He is on a quest to have an intimate knowledge of all things related to metallic cartridge loading.
He believes in God, freedom and a good sense of humor.
You can see all of my posts here: thereloadersnetwork.com/channel/johns-hand-loading/
Nice job 💪🏽👍🏼 I went a little to heavy with the lemon juice when i did this ; the brass had a pink patina when they dried out I didn’t bother cleaning up my next batch just reloaded as is with my small lee loader ; they all went bang 😂
They used to be made by "Treetopflier" he is a guy on RU-vid. I don't think he makes them anymore. I have seen similar things made by others. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_uc3NHEeSLM.html
@@Ruteger100 I appreciate that. I have been busy with other stuff recently but hope to get a few things filmed and uploaded in the next few months. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Lee mentions "dwell time", apparently the time you keep the collet engaged, presumably to allow the brass neck to settle in for some time. Ever hear of that?
I think a couple second is all it takes. There is a slight amount of spring back after you remove the case form the die. Until the brass gets brittle and then should be annealed.
Are all of the 5.56 Lake City rounds Berdan primed? Some of them? None of them? I have a buddy that lives an hour away from me and he called me last night and asked if I wanted a 5 gallon bucket full of once fired Lake City brass and I told him that I *Think* that I heard that all military brass was Berdan primed *OR* the primer was crimped in the case but if they are Berdan primed then I can't use them for anything but if the primers are crimped in then I could possibly use them but may have to buy a special die or some type of extra tool to get the primer out and another tool to undo, or straighten out the crimped primer and pocket? Would this Lee Universal Decapping Die take the primers out of a crimped primer pocket IF the military brass has a crimped primer and not a Berdan primer pocket? If this Lee decapping die won't work on a crimped primer pocket what tools/dies should I get to deal with a crimped primer pocket? Sorry for all of the dumb, beginner questions but I was diagnosed with tongue/throat/neck cancer on June 6th 2023 and went through 8 weeks of radiation and chemo which screwed my thyroid and kidneys all up and I need something to do that isn't strenuous and a 5 gallon bucket of free brass should be pretty easy to handle in my condition and at the same time keeping me occupied and not sitting around thinking about the worst case scenario concerning if my cancer treatment worked or not Thank you
Thanks for the video, an thanks to those who replied because yall helped me, I did a polish job an guess I pushed the connector in with to much force resulting in a very hard trigger pull, I bent the connector out a little an now I'm back to a 5 1/2 to 5 pd trigger pull, so much better
Like you I love fixing and rebuilding firearms! The most challenging build I’ve EVER done was the 1911! Every single part had to be hand fit, filed and polished to perfection! But it was worth it!
I took the Lee Lube and mixed two teaspoons in a 6 oz spray bottle with 91 percent alcohol. After mixing it up thoroughly and shaking it up, I made it into a spray. Works very well. Also, did the same to the RCBS-2 lube into spray. Both worked but the Lee I can use inside the case necks. I'm pretty stocked on Lee Lube for awhile now.
I got one a few months ago. Before I ever shot it the cylinder got the same kind of wear just turning it because it rubbed the loading gate. I emailed Ruger and they said they'd fix it but I decided it's not worth the trouble for me or them. I luckily got a pretty darn accurate one and it's very fun to shoot! You really can't beat them for the money.
Great video tutorial! Very descriptive. What brand of cleaning rod are you using if I may ask? I am tired of these cheap screw together rods that disappoint.
It is a Dewey one piece rod. They are fantastic. I get the smaller diameter (.17 I think) they recommend it on their website. Works great. Worth the price.
@@mikemuhlbach2951 I had one once and youtube took it down. They don't allow them. If you look at the reloaders network website there should be some videos there. My one that was taken down here is listed under my page at the reloaders network.
I was going to do all this with my inheritated model 12. But i just soaked it in clp for 3 days then took it aprat used a nylon/brass brush, rags and compressed air. Seems to work extrmely smooth now. Need to go test(slam) fire it 😎
Nice video on this poorly named Lee die. It should be called the "Rifle flaring die" or just "Flaring die" IMHO. A expanding die to me, is The Lyman "M" die. Its patent appears to have run out after decades. Redding now has it as well on their NexGen and other dies. Lee has even introduced it in their new powder thru expander "M" style plugs in their powder thru expander dies. So Now we have more, and better options for a actual "expander die" for straight walled cases and pistol cases. To me a "expander die" goes all the way into a pistol case and also flares the mouth for cast bullet reloaders. The "M" style, 2 step Plug actually enlarges/ sizes the brass all the way thru where the bullet ends up after being pressed into place. This Lee die you are showing here for rifle cases, just flares the case mouth and really should be called a "flaring die." IMHO The "Expanding" has actually already been done by the center expander plug on your sizing die, on all rifle case die sets. I never will understand Why Lee misnamed that die.
You dont know how much you relieved my worry about taking my 1911 completely apart. I can take the slide out no problem but i have a hammer and trigger coming and wanted to see if there was anything that i was going to have to worry about while taking it apart but other then the pins with the spring for the safety i believe i will be a ok to do this but i will be watching as i go so i don't mess it up. Thank you for helping out with this video.
Got a 1943 Remington Rand recently and I'm a little hesitant to fully disassemble that beauty as I haven't worked on a 1911 yet. However, after watching this video, I'm more comfortable with the idea of actually doing it. So, thanks for uploading this. 🤝🏻👍🏻
I am glad it is helpful. There are lots of good 1911 resources out there. Do the field strip a few times first. And take your time. Don't force anything and you will do great. Also if it operates correctly now, don't bend the main spring at all. Good luck.
Horrible work...to much info for suck a simple job and the sight is facing the ground...gave some ideas on putting my sight but i thimk i can do so muck better.
I hope you can do better. The sight works fine on this rifle as shown. Was done simply to test an idea and it worked. There are many BETTER ways to accomplish this, but I used what I had and it worked. Have a great day. good luck on your next project.
Fine presentation and explanations! I'll be purchasing my first 1911 in April. It was nice to see your demo and explanations. Oh, nice work on you sear and grip safety. Thank you! I'm in the making to become a 1911 guy.
Wow,that is much simpler than the older version of the 22-45 . With my older oneI took more time to reassemble the pistol than it did to clean it.thank,s for the vidio.
It is very nice. I have a mentor who had an early Ruger 22 and it is difficult to remember the order you must use to take it apart and put it back together.
