We own an Ioniq 5 with 4 levels of regen, turning regen off is way less efficient I find but that’s probably because the low level of regen you can achieve on our car is really quite good, level 1 regen barely brakes the car but still puts back into the battery, so every percentage of the battery just lasts longer at that level of regen. I can see why heavy regen would be a bad idea though for the most part unless you do true one pedal driving, something our car is good at also.
Your saving brakes on the regen. How much is a set of disced to be machined. Regen gives long livetey on brakes. Do the sums free enegy from the sun off solar panels teduction in break wear isca no brainer
Well dworak keyboard is better then querty keyboard. I would enforce everybody at tesla design to use dworak, they will understand you very very quickly.
@@ElectricVehicleMan I am talking to someone who is driving on the wrong side of the street, probably you express yourself the same way. I don't need help. You need to understand what people are saying to you
Thank you ever so much for your time for this video..... I am purchasing my first used EV. You've explained it thoroughly. It makes more sense on how it works ......as videos of drivers driving them and speaking on miles per KW. Thank you ever so much.......❤❤
I had the Vw E-Up, I leased it, it only gave roughly 68 miles per full charge, at max 80 on good conditions in full eco mode, also it took 2 solid hours to charge on a supercharger, far too long, not a bad car otherwise.
Hi, sorry if i missed this, but i would like to know what panels you had on your roof? How budget were they? Also when i have just had 6-7 quotes for good quality panels the Heatable micro invertor set up was 5k more expensive than other quotes with the jinko Tiger Neo panels for example. I'm not sure thats a premium worth paying?
Thank you thank you thank you! Clearly laying out the difference between kW and kWh!! Like calling Concrete "Cement!", or Bread "flour." They are different units.
This car is brilliant for converting people like me over to electric. I have never considered electric before trying this, and have driven Land Cruisers, numerous different pickup trucks, and my last to trucks were F-150 Raptors. This car looks futuristic, but still strong, like a CyberPunk SUV. The Raptor is still considerably bigger, but this at least feels like a proper SUV and not a little town runabout. We will be using it for towing, for mountain trips, overlanding trips sleeping in the back, all the stuff we used to use the Raptor for. So yeah, you can complain about cars being too big, but if it wasn't for this I would still be burning petrol in my Raptor ;)
I liked it and was informed, but here's the pedantic bit - why do you say one kilowatt (singular), but one kilowatt-hours? One kWh is still just one unit.
The 7.5p is for 4 hours so 28 kwh in the battery and the rest at a higher rate. Pre-conditioning the battery also takes energy from the battery thus reducing your range. In your example rapid charging to 80% would mean only charging to 40 kwh capacity reducing the range by 40 miles
I just bought a 70 plate which is being delivered at the end of the week , it has 164k miles on the clock although it’s not been a taxi due to having just one mot . I will be happy if I can achieve 160 miles from it .
Polestar 2 is not a valid comparison... Polestar 2 is a drivers car, it is low, centred around the driver, not a family car, sorry... It has a big transmission tunnel (making it a 4 seater really), low ceiling, poor boot space. Not practical in any sense for a family. Also RRP is not important if you lease or PCP which most people will. It's all about the monthlies... And right now the lease deals on these are stonking... Perhaps not so, when this was filmed.
Maybe I'm missing the point but it doesn't seem worth it to me. If I'm exporting power to the grid (or home) it's only worth it if I'm getting paid the same or more than it cost to import it. It's electronic arbitrage I suppose. It makes sense if you're charging when it's cheap, usually mid-afternoon or overnight and discharging during peak hours, for most people that'd be charging overnight and exporting the following evening but that's only really feasible if you didn't drive your car and you're a low mileage driver or perhaps if you bought a car with a far bigger battery than you'll need but if you want to save money you probably won't be getting a battery that's too big. You're probably currently looking at maybe 15p/KWh, if you can export 21KWh (3hrs @ 7KW), that's £3.15 which is nice but not amazing and if prices return to normal it'll be even less. V2L seems more useful to me. You can go camping or out for a picnic maybe and use the car to power a kettle or hairdryer. Could even use it at car boot sale to show people your old electronics are still working.
Summary * kW = the rate at which energy is delivered * kWh = the total amount of energy delivered / held in a battery * Cost per kwh x the number of kwh delivered = total cost * Fast chargers cost more than charging at home * Miles per kWh is the inverse of kwh (or wh) per mile. * Electric cars charge fastest between about 5% and 60% full and slow down until full * Electric cars will only charge as fast as the car can accept OR the charger can deliver - (whichever is slowest)
One thing we need to mention to beginners, and something that very much tripped me up. Is about those expensive fast chargers compared with cheap home charging. You will hear folk talk about something called range anxiety, but in reality it is usually a sort of economics anxiety. In short, once you get your head round the fact that a lot of your journeys are very cheap, you start to realise that it does not matter that longer journeys cost a lot more because you used a pricey fast charger. Your monthly fuel bill will still be cheap.
Great clip, i will forward this to all those people who ask me why it takes so long to fill my electric car, even if its ready to drive away before i am back from a quick toilet break 😮,
