I appreciate the video man, it really helped out a lot. I have the 2.5 L engine and the early style DPC box so mine was a little bit different and I actually swaped the firewall wire with the fender wire because the fender one was incredibly long for some reason so I just swapped them out and everything fit awesome. I did have to modify the cover for the DPC box but it was a little bit different than yours. I don't like how the wire comes out towards the fender and it's a pretty tight turn down, I may modify it a little bit more so it's not quite a steep turn because that wire is rubbing up against the sharp Fender and I'm worried it's going to cut through the insulation
@@aaronstone105 Thanks! I’m glad it helped. I made a few revisions to my install in a later video. Here’s a link to the specific part of the video if you’re interested. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1cA-lIX3fRA.html
Tie power behind the radio not the reverse light circuit. Tie into the switched hot into the radio. It's probably not getting enough current to stay on
You have to go into settings I think and change the camera input type if I remember right anyway on those head units for it to work correctly. There's a setting you have to change and then it will work
I’m an iPhone guy so I can’t speak to Android specifically, but I do know that when my phone is linked to the head unit via wireless CarPlay (WiFi) you can only control the volume from the head unit. Whereas if I’m linked via Bluetooth I can control the volume from both the head unit and my cell phone.
Love the project Jay, I'm sorta the reverse with 9100 up Front and RCR in the back. In a troopie. I will share some pictures when the build is done. Great work!
I just looked but I can't find them anymore. They might have been discontinued. They were a gift from my wife. All I know is she bought them in a local camping shop here in Taiwan. Sorry
You’re one hell of a thoughtful fabricator buddy. I’ve just started diving off into making custom brackets and doing things like that for my truck when there is no aftermarket solution I definitely subscribed because just that counter sink press idea was really helpful.
Thanks for the kind words. You’ll find it to be a slippery slope😆. At this point I spend more time daydreaming at my desk about this stuff than I do my actual work. There’s nothing more satisfying to me that building stuff that doesn’t exist. Thanks for the sub and good lock with your truck. 🍻
I got mine on EBay the brand name is “MicroBypass” Here’s the directions copy/pasted from a screenshot on my cell. AWARNINGI It is dangerous (and illegal in most states) for the driver to watch the video monitor while driving the vehicle. The driver may be distracted from looking ahead and an accident could occur. Install the MicroBypass only in Retail Display, RV, or Marine applications where there is no parking brake to interface to. Do not install the MicroBypass where the driver may be able to view the monitor when driving. ILLEGAL USE PROHIBITED! Installation Instructions 1. Connect BLACK wire on MicroBypass to BLACK wire (Ground(-)] on Alpine Radio (Also Connect to the Vehicle's Ground wire) 2. Connect BLUE/WHITE wire on MicroBypass tO BLUE/WHITE STRIPE wire (remote turn on (+)] on Alpine Radio (This connection can also be shared with Amplifiers if Present) Connect YELLOW/BLUE wire on MicroBypass to YELLOW/BLUE wire [Parking Brake(-)] on Alpine Radio only-do not connect to vehicles actual parking brake wiring/circuit 4. Connect YELLOW/BLACK wire on MicroBypass to YELLOW/BLACK wire [foot Brake(+)] on Alpine Radio only-do not connect to vehicles actual foot brake wiring/circuit, no connection if not present on Alpine harness NEED INSTALLATION HELP? CONTACT US DIRECTLY AT MICROBYPASS@MAIL.COM
I did notice. But I wasn’t really paying attention to that. My factory stuff was in pretty good shape when I did the swap being that I’m in a very temperate climate so dimming headlights wasn’t a problem for me. I’d imagine it would make a difference otherwise though. I did however notice a difference in winch power though.
Holding the up arrow calibrates the system. When you know the battery is fully charged, hold the up arrow to tell the system it's fully charged, that way it has a starting point. Alternatively, if you know the battery is fully discharged you could hold the down arrow and set that as the 0% charged state.
Do you actually think I didn’t try that before taking the time to shoot and upload a video? BTW I updated the title of the video to include the solution…over a year ago… 😂
What an absolute d#ck head! Did you consider contacting the manufacturer? It may have been a faulty unit, that even the most reputable companies can put out. Pretty sure they would have sent you a replacement. Are you seriously showing people that you need a trolley to move a battery 10 feet to a bench to work on it? What an absolute clown show of a video! And yes, you were correct, an absolute "hit job" to be sure
I believe if you draw too many amps it will go into this mode. If you disconnect and reconnect it will restart. You can change the amps in the settings
Hey John. FYI this was just some found footage I put together from like 8 years ago. D60s are WAY to much for my driving style these days much less Unimogs 😂
every electronics needs reset from time to time. fact! sometimes you just have to unlug it from electricity. pull your cable directly from monitor and shunt. could be that electronics on shunt and monitor both need reset at same time. or maybe just monitor bad.
Did you watch till the end? Thankfully despite how it was playing out, it did have a happy ending. And FWIW the brakes are solid to this day. Haven’t had any other issues since that test run. Good luck with your set.
Mainly ON/ON/OFF and the ability to assign outputs to what ever switch I want. The SP9100 outputs are tied to their specific switches. Thanks for watching :-)
Thanks! I’m halfway done an auxiliary power tray project right next to that area. Once that’s complete I’m on to this. Here’s a link to what I’m doing first. 👉ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h4ZR30EM-ck.htmlsi=vxY3KLERnFD2Icj2
You almost had it, only thing missing it a VSR isolator work on the alternator voltage at 13.5 so your AGM will never be full but the DC to DC will take the 12-13volts after some voltage drop, depending on length of cable and boost it to 14.7volts by sacrificing current. To properly charge the AGM you need 14.7volt to bulk charge then 13.4 to float charge.
I’m not 100% clear on what you’re saying here. Almost had what? 🤔. I’ll take a stab at a replying though. TJs have conventions NON-smart alternators. So the charging issues newer vehicles with smart alternators have isn’t a thing for us old guys. Voltage drop in my case shouldn’t be a significant factor in my situation either. I have about 6’ distance between my isolator and battery bank and that distance is covered in 2awg wire. I’ve been running a Victron monitor since the Renogy went out on me and I’m happy to say there are zero issues. I appreciate your comment and sub though. ✌️ 😊 On a sidenote, I do have a DCDCs sitting on my shelf, waiting to go into the Jeep. But it’s way too powerful for the size of my battery bank at the moment. Goals… 😂
@@JeepTJay6 I enjoyed your video here in Australia, I’m running AGM battery in my own Dual battery setup,learn a lot about AGM battery, I ran 2 separate fridges plus light for 7 days touring. the main point I was trying to make is, AGM batteries need a higher voltage to fully charge proper ( 14.5volts to bulk charge, then 13.2 for float) an alternator will only put out 13.5 volts approximately. Keep up the good videos
@@panos8444 Yup. But my power needs are very modest. There are only a few decent DCDCs on the market rated low enough for my wee little 56AH bank. I looked into RedArch from over your neck of the woods and even spoke to a rep there. Really top notch stuff. But the price point +cost of shipping over here to Taiwan was kinda impractical for my needs. I wanted as small a bank as I could possibly get away with to keep my curb weight down. I like to crawl on the rocks now and then. I plan to eventually switch to lithium and get twice my capacity for half the weight of my AGMs. At that point I’ll be able to make good use of the brand new Victron DCDC on my shelf. Nice chatting with ya. 🍻
Put the emergency brake on and the other icons will light up and it will open more menus then find the correct time zone out of the options it gives you.
Thanks for the input, but the issue was that I didn’t have the GPS dongle attached to the head unit. Then I attached it, but was too deep inside my garage for the signal to grab. I temporarily gave up and drove to the store and presto! The clock was fixed lol! Good guess on the e-brake though. But I actually have an E-brake bypass installed. At any rate, It’s no longer an issue. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! Although that was only an MDF sketch model. Still making some tweaks and adjustments before I build the final. I also haven’t decided what material I’m going to use. Stay tuned for part 2 😁
