This helped fix the exact same problem i had with the USB Bosch adapter draining the 8Ah battery. I used a 6.3Ah to revive. Care must me taken to use proper gauge wires to prevent overheating, a 20-30 second boost was all that was needed in my case.
Nice. Wonder if there's something odd about the electronics in the 8ah? Non of my other batteries have died on the usb adapter thing. I have a 6.3ah eneracer battery too. I didn't use it for the boost as it has different cells (20700 vs 21700 in the procore). Could also be a change in electronics in the procore restricting direct output - hence my super slow trickle charge. Might have different management in the eneracers allowing a short effective boost🤷♂️ Wire I used was from mains c ring. More than enough. 👍
You are a gd genius how you improved those sauters, how do you even think of that in the first place. As for lidl clamps, I was in "why not" boat and bought several packs of all 3 sizes. 2 big and one medium broke on the first use. I find them very, erm, unresponsive? No hold or very weak to over tight with no middle ground at all. When too tight red release wont release. Plastic feet are very slippery. But while I am finding them very frustrating to use, I have used them for the past 3 years and even fitted several kitchens with them and countless doors. I also found them very hard to use one handed. Any suggestions for nice one handed clamp that isnt bessey? Cheers
Cheers mate. Not the Lidl ones are always the same. Some folks have reported that they're pretty strong. Mine aren't, though not as bad as yours by the sounds of it. The extra bolts I put through mine help. Clamps from Jorgensen or Piher are always worth checking out if not Bessey. There's some decent looking one handed clamps at Rutlands on offer I wouldn't mind trying out. 👍
Well, it's not exactly the Henry Studley tool cabinet....but it's neat, quirky, looks different and does the job it's supposed to do..can't say fairer than that really 👍
😂😂 Thanks for reminding me of those. The Studley tool chests are ridiculous! They're the ideal tool chest if you're a travelling carpenter with only a push bike to get you around though😉 Next level organisation.👍
Subbed. Thanks for reviewing these bits because I cannot afford to pay the Whiteside price for them. Because of your review, I went out and bought a few.
Thanks mate. I'm sure you'll like. Mine are all still going strong. The bearing top one has had a lot of use but still cuts beautifully. Important to try and keep them clean though. Stiff tooth brush and some cleaner 👌
It appears Hongdui are now producing the HD-TB01 Premium Mitre Gauge with a T-type bar compatible with DeWalt saws! Looks like a Bosch one is also coming. Link for Dewalt version - uk.banggood.com/custlink/vDG9REYBeV
It appears Hongdui are now producing the HD-TB01 Premium Mitre Gauge with a T-type bar compatible with DeWalt saws! Looks like a Bosch one is also coming. Link - uk.banggood.com/custlink/vDG9REYBeV
I’m trying this as we speak, as you say most videos state 10 seconds. Upon putting a volt meter on the dead battery it registered 15v so probably too low for the recharge to begin. I’ve left it on for abit of charge and put in the drill and the drill now works! But again still won’t charge in the charger so I’m leaving longer. When connected to the other battery the battery indicator does work but once unplugging it doesn’t. Will see if this will begin to charge on the timer in abit, I’m hopeful this work and will keep you posted if it works!! Much appreciated
Nice one. Good luck mate. I think it might be down to the newer tech in the batteries. They need the tool trigger pulled to release the beans. Without that, it's like they only release enough power to run an led or something on the tool. This effectively means you only get a very slow trickle charge so can take a while with 2 batteries connected. That's how it seems to me anyway.👍
Clever solution, thank you. I am really enjoying your reviews. I’ve been looking at the benchdogs fence system for my track saw table build. I love the idea and the look of their system, but wasn’t sure it was solid enough… I’m now thinking of using either 40mm x 40mm extrusion . My question is, if you were starting again would you use 20 or 40 series extrusions?
Thanks mate. I think, starting over, I'd stick with 20 series profiles to make the same as I have now. I think the fence dogs are a great fixing solution. They would allow a fixing in 40 series but, only one. With a 2040 flat and a 2020 piece on top, I can get 2 fixings in from each fence dog. This keeps them solidly in place, no pivoting around a single fixing. I think this is important if you want to remove it regularly as I do.👍
I’ve had one since before moving workshop, so now I’m sorted I’ll finally be able to review it after putting it through its paces with the house renovation. I didn’t get the nose foam unfortunately, and my stupid shape nose still allows a little air into the specs. That being said it is still a very good mask (I’m yet to find one my thin bridged hooter properly fits in lol
Great review Stew. Base camp sent me the Pro version which I think is better with the head strap and agree it’s a comfortable mask and doesn’t fill up with condensation like my GVS or Trend Stealth. No steamy glasses & does seem a better fit for beards, seems to be a keeper 👍.
Nice one. Think I've seen it on your Insta? I'm a perpetual hat wearer so didn't fancy the head strap of the Pro. Yeah, it's not like the Base Camp don't get a bit moist after long use but not dropping wet. Proper comfy I think too. 👍
I use the 3m 7500 series dust mask regularly. The condensation is indeed a big pain when using for a long time. If more readily available localy (in Belgium) i would instantly give it a try. Thanks for all ur vids!
Yeah, 3M have always been one of my go-to for many things. Nothing against their masks. Just the moisture build up really after long periods. These cloth ones seem much better at coping with that. Just so you know, Base Camp take care of customs to UK and EU so no hidden charges👍
Thank you for the fantastic review, Stew! We're thrilled to hear that the BASE CAMP mask has changed your perspective on cloth masks and that you're finding it effective and comfortable for your work.😊
I use the trend stealth P3 and it is always wet on the inside after ten/ fifteen minutes of use. Pisses me off having to clean it out. Looks like I'll give this a try.
Yeah, I think that's kind of a feature of any mask with the silicone face cover. Wonder if the stealth lite would be better? Still, I found the Base Camp great on this front. Gets moist but not sopping wet. 👍
Hello Stu. Interesting review. The nose piece is one of the best features here. The fogging makes it impossible if this does work now I have to wear glasses….. I have to declare a bias here. I worked for 3M for 10yrs. I do like there respirators. However having done multiple courses, beards and negative pressure is a no go for full protection. Better than nothing but if you were protecting against dangerous particles or viruses then you would need a positive pressure system. These are the powered type. I could go full keyboard warrior mode, however not a rant against anything you said more a be careful people 👍🏻
Thanks mate. Yeah, I don't think I'd get away with my beard in the virology game😂 I admit to never really looking much into mask/respirator numbers or performance before. I was just happy this base camp one seemed to massively cut down wetness and tickly coughing after prolonged use. By all means though, if there's anything you'd like to impart for people to consider, I'm all for it. 👍
@@BischBaschBoschthanks mate always happy to comment, has to be ‘non shouty’ way though. Sometimes written text comes over, even if unintentionally across the wrong way. The easiest way to think of respirators is, with a beard if your life depends on it, say dealing with asbestos, your respirator should be fit tested. This is an industry standard. Does not matter the industry, the test is standard. Don’t let a comfort lull you into a false sense of security
Someone with knowledge! If you don't mind answering a question regarding the 3M 7500 series. When it comes to wiping / cleaning the insides, which wipes are suitable and cheap to get the job done?
Please note - Base Camp handle customs when shipping to UK and EU so no extra charges. Delivery (US to UK) takes 7 days and is to your door. Shipping is £5-6. Apologies for not mentioning there's no customs charges in the video.✌
I am a beardy like yourself , and have one of those but without the nose strips ( first I knew of them ) Its great most of the time , but I also have a Trend Stealth which I purchased several weeks ago , as despite changing the filters on the base camp, I was still ending up with a lot of fine dust inhaled. The dust and general breathing is much better with the trend, but the condensation is bad. I give it a quick wipe over with some swabs I have , and keep it in a zip lock bag with silica bags in them. It seems to be keeping the damp & dust away. For general use the base camp is great, but prolonged bouts of dust creation I currently prefer the Trend. I got mine issued by my employer during Covid , as they are an American multinational, along with a big pile of filters.
I've tried the RZ mask, didn't work out for me. Sits wrong in my face, tickles my nose constantly. My 3M 6503QL half mask on the other hand works perfectly for me. Even my beard is a non-issue. Bought 3y ago, happy to this day.
What's the PZ mask? It's a funny thing though innit. I didn't like the fit of the 3M at all. And the silicone mask collected loads of moisture, same as my Vitrex. Great you found one you liked and fit properly though👍
@@BischBaschBosch RZ not PZ 😄 It's the Aussie version of the Base Camp iirc. At least it looks the same. Couldn't agree more. Everyone's face is different. Good there are so many options to choose from.
Sorry bud. Meant to say in the video that Base Camp handle customs to UK and EU. No hidden charges. Shipping to UK is £5-6. Takes about 7 days to get to the UK.
I have similar lower quality mask that looks like that since covid years. Not good for heavy dust use such routing or using table saw, but came in handy when I do hand sanding. I want to buy that higher quality one, but I doubt it will be available in my country. haha My go to is the bulky 3M 7502 + 7093 filter.
Great to hear, thanks mate. Nothing wrong with being instinctive if it's from good past experience. I just think it's also worth thinking about a glues properties and the job you want it to do too.👍
Excellent video. The only one I have seen that actually explains the properties of each glue and its applications. My only however is that Everbuild D4 should not be used for cutting blocks as it is not deemed to be food safe (as per their technical helpdesk). Cascamite isn't either and the only option I have found that is guaranteed food safe is Titebond. Cheers.
Thanks man. D4 glues (which includes titebond 3) are inert when cured, hence food safe. They're solvent free and don't leach. Not sure why help desk told you it isn't. Only warning on their technical data sheet is not to eat or drink while using - as in wet glue. Pretty standard. 👍
I have the triangle from Temu for $40. 1. I’m disappointed in the ledge not being perfectly straight. The fault is due to the groove being too deep. That causes the ledge to have less meat. Which makes it “wavy” and not straight. Your point-contact method of testing with the bench dogs is one scenario of use. Another test is the full-contact method where the ledge is fully in contact with the mating surface. That’s the fence-to-track scenario you had shown. Because the ledge is not fully straight, I do the Fence-to-Track calibration without the ledge. 2. Did you notice the fasteners for the Ledge are in the way of bearing it on the edge of a board? You cannot randomly use either side of the ledge because of those protruding fasteners. 3. The Ledge and the Edge of the Triangle are not flush. The Ledge stops short of the edge of the triangle. Thankfully that is the desired flaw, if there has to be a defect. I do appreciate and have high quality tools from TSO and Woodpeckers. In this case, the Triangle is just going to be used for layout, and not for measuring. I’ve found the China tools do not have accurate scales for measurements. And I do not trust China manufacturing for router bits and power tools. For my targeted usage, with the price and value points, and even with the three flaws, I decided to keep the triangle. Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experiences with the China tools. Every bit helps to inform our decisions.
Thanks for sharing you experience. First thing I check is that all edges are straight with a precision straight edge. My triangle and it's stock were both straight. I know what you mean about housing in the stock being very deep. Could be of concern if you were to continually remove it, making it prone to damage but, I keep mine attached. Thankfully my screw heads don't protrude at all. They're clear of each reference edge by about half mm. Not a lot but enough. I had no intention of using this for measurement, not least because its imperial only so I didn't even concern myself with its accuracy in that regard. With regards Chinese tools and machining accuracy mire generally, like everywhere, you get the production you pay for. There are cheap, often dissappointing Chinese tools, and premium ones. Hongdui a good example of the later. Their products easily comparable to offerings from Harvey, Jessem etc. Not to mention all the premium tech sold in the West, manufactured in China. Their problem isn't manufacturing or engineering prowess. I think it's more that they don't particularly get, or "do" brands. Woodpeckers for example understand that their brand - and the (often ludicrous) premium they attach to it - lives or dies via the quality of every item they make. Outside of the domestic market, it's very hard to find companies like that in China. Veiko for example make some excellent quality, accurate tools for an excellent price. They also fill out their range with some rubbish. Hongdui seems to be a change on that front. One to watch.
It took a lot of trial and error for me first starting out and I did fall into the trap you mentioned the only glue you will ever need. I do like a quick set for small projects and open time for big projects I don’t use Titebond it’s to expensive here in Oz. Shelley’s is my go too they have a great variety and it’s a reasonable price for what you get. Plus it’s made here. Thanks for sharing it’s a great topic and I’m interested to see what others use cheers
Yeah, it can take a while to work out what you like at first. Great you've found a home team glue that suits. Titebond 3 is essentially a D4 grade glue, same as I use. I use the everbuild brand as it's the right price point and a proven product👍
Well, what a great, interesting video, thank you, glad you mentioned hide glue, as a restorer I use almost exclusively hide glue, as it is reversible, with heat, warm water and even vinegar. Thanks again and be lucky
Thank you! Hide glue is a classic and perfect for many restorations. Very unique properties. Unfortunately, for my designs, it wouldn't hold up. But, it's one I think should always be in the conversation👍
Brands can make a difference but we have some fine PU in the UK too. No disrespect to John Heisz but a serious furniture maker or production outfit that uses a construction pu glue is ultra rare. It's too messy (doesn't clean well initially, can stain later), which can make it hard to spot/check a closed (or not) joint and, can degrade before time if there's air or hollow in the wood/joint. What it is though, is quick. That has its appeal. I'd rather take my time. 👍
Interesting stuff. I like to keep things simple and stick to a few basic products. Pretty much everything I make gets the Titebond 3 treatment...it seems to work well and has never failed me. 2 part epoxy ( whatever brand I have lying around) deals with sticking dissimilar materials, and mitre bond for a quick bonding job. The one glue that I never use, and loathe is polyurethane....too messy, too sticky and the only type of adhesive that has ever let me down.
Sounds like we have a similar general approach. I meant to mention titebond 3 as, in terms of properties, it's a D4 glue. Not all D4 grade glues are equal I've found over the years. Everbuild, titebond and Evo I rate for this glue.👍
