Excellent, my window didn’t quite snap into place when I rolled up the mechanism, but pushing in the glass to the tab worked! Thanks for the excellent walkthrough
Hello.Great video. My car has 1.4 t-get engine. Is is possible to remove the manifold for exsaust gasket replacement, without dissasembling the front part of the car?
@@ard1419 you can technically do this job without completely removing the front end. However, it is a lot more difficult. That is why we recommend removing the front so you have easy access to everything and can do the job right.
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance already tested removing the heat shields and seems there's space for removing the rest. Is it possible 200 ml coolant to be loose for 2 months because of the turbine banjo bolts? It happens not during driving but when the car sitting for day or more
I have 5000 TLX. Its very tricky getting the 500 raised on it. I had to use them backwards (hoses pointed to back) for it to work. The jacks just barely fit within the wheelbase, and press against the tires on the way up. It's tricky, but not impossible. I need the TLX for my other cars.
2024 and still a great video. I'm a driveway repair kinda guy and as stupid as this sounds I didn't realise the Radiator and Condenser were 2 different things my radiator is fine but my condenser was damaged but from what I've seen it only means AC won't work and engine cooling will be just fine which was my main concern. Great video man really appreciated it.
Thanks for this video! I have a stock 2017 124 spider Abarth manual transmission. It has 30,000 miles. I noticed that it’s missing oil after about 600 miles. There is also black carbon on exhaust tips. Seems to happen when driving hard. Any tips? Is it the air oil exchanger needs cleaning? Or do I need a catch can? No smoke coming from exhaust. Everything works a feels great. Just worried about oil consumption. Thx!
Hi. I need to remove my calipers and then reattach them. I read in a Fiat manual that when you depress the brake pedal, this will disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder so fluid won’t keep coming out of a brake line after removing a caliper. Is this true?
@@jamesp2293 the brake fluid will leak out if you disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. If you disconnect that, put a cap on the end of the hose so it stops leaking. Once you are ready to reinstall, remove the cap and install the hose back to the caliper
@@NGENCustomsandPerformance Having never actually worked with my brakes before, I don't know if I need a male or a female plug and what size. I have no idea what to ask my parts store for...
@@jamesp2293 rubber cap. If you go to a parts store, tell them what you are doing and they should be able to help you. Why are you removing the brake hoses from the calipers? It’s not necessary to change the brake pads and rotors
You likely have an aftermarket intake that doesn’t have this hose connected to it. Remove the filter before you clean the AOS and then reinstall when you are done
Factory Skid plate 6 bolts 10mm Coolant Res 10mm bolt 10mm nut Passenger Top Mount 3 bolts to engine uses 14mm 3 bolts to chassis uses 15mm Battery Terminals disconnect negative first 10mm or whatever wrenches, ECU pull tabs out, remove connector, set asside Battery Hold down 13mm bolt ECU Ground Strap 10mm Battery Tray 13mm nut x 1 13mm bolt x 2 Curse struggle with battery tray cause it wont come out as easy as in the video ;) Driver side top mount 19mm center bolt x 1 15mm bolts x 2 Frame brace 19mm bolts x 4 O2 Sensor usually 7/8 or 22mm or o2 socket Exhaust 13mm x 2 Midpipe retention bracket 13mm Exhaust Hanger any tool and cursing required to remove Lower mount 18mm on engine side e18 socket (alternatively, 12point 14mm) on chassis side MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THIS FIRST otherwise you're gonna be stuck with this bolt and hang up the rest of the process and now you cant use your car to go anywhere. Hope this helps other diy mechanics who just need the tool sizes to take with you when you're replacing your friends mounts.
Hi, thanks for the video. A couple of questions. Why did you remove the down pipe? And if you did wasn’t that a good opportunity to upgrade the down pipe? Next, why can’t the exhaust manifold be removed with the turbo attached? Since both will be replaced why is disassembly required? And can’t the new turbo be mounted to the exhaust manifold before it is installed? It seems like you did a lot of work that could have been done prior to the installation. Just observation.
Another great video as always! One question: I did notice there's a slight wobble in the pulley when running the engine. Any concerns there? Seems like it's not sitting fully centered. Thank you.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FA0g39IDjIQ.html 1:09:15 I sincerly hope you changed that last nut that you overtightened and the 13mm socket just spun on the nut... nothing offensive, just a good eye. this video was awesome !
Why replace the part if it could just be cleaned? It would be different if it were a mechanical part but it seems silly to do anything besides inspecting and cleaning if its not damaged. Mind you, that might involve an o-ring and some thread sealant/tape.
First of all thank you for such a useful video, 26:42 about powerflex inert, is it nacessery or better to install this inserts on both sides on gearbox mount ? or just 1 from right side is enough
The filter goes in a position or it's the Same in any direction? I say it because of the air flow. There are filters that let air through in a single direction
