Welcome to Loves Branding! The purpose of this channel is to provide some insight and behind the scenes of a garment decorating business specializing in embroidery and digital printing (Direct to garment & direct to film) work. Happy to help answer questions to help others discover or grown in the industry!
thanks for the Video, Can you tell me more less how many shirts you can print with just one set of Cartages? (please give a guess on one color only, I'm sure this is not perfect but this will help me get an idea) Thank You
I have an opportunity to buy one for 500 with a pretreatment system. Is it not worth it? The guy says it works and doesnt seem to know anything about it. Im sure the tubes are clogged. But is it worth it as its 500 for both the f2100 and a pretreatment t1 machine
Thanks for the tip. I ran some white shirts today on the f2100 at my shop and them suckered faded right after washing. I didn't double stike the color or have and of my striking setti g turned on. I'm definitely trying your setting tomorrow. 🤪
Beautiful video. Would love to see how successful you could be if you used a better PT machine and different solutions! Also, there is no such thing a true universal PT, yet!
ok so what I've done EVERYTHING mentioned, and then some? It keeps giving me an axis area when the needle is going directly between the seam. Thankfully it's a 90/14 so it hasn't broken every time but I have to do the dance to get the off axis fixed. What else could i be missing? I've followed every tip and trick I've seen. Hats are the money maker...we all know that. So i really HAVE to conquer this!
Unfortunately there's a lot of variables to consider. One thing I see with some machines is the cap driver being too high. It's kind of hard to explain over comments but I found this video on how to adjust a SWF machine. Other machines are very similar. The goal is to get it so the cap will sit as close as possible to the needle hole. The more space there is, the more likely there is some deflection in the needle causing it to not go straight down. Give this a try, if not, I would recommend reaching out to a tech to get it dialed in
I was able to make my own with Embrilliance Stitch Artist although I later saw some blank designs on Etsy. I used a heavy black contractor trash bag for the first few that I made until I purchased the clear plastic. Thank you for an excellent video!
Appreciate the love! Unfortunately, this is likely my last video. I have started another business and the goal will be to post some long format content on there but the video styles are going to be different. Right now, we are mainly on Instagram @streetwearhouse_official if you want to check it out! We have a RU-vid but its just reposted content from IG
Question? I have the temp set to 310....and I am not fully closing the plate so press is just me holding the clam shell down on my own and the 100% acrylic beanie is being crushed and pancaked...how do I stop that from happening? Should I not put any pressure when closing the lid and just hold it so it doesn't open so literally no pressure at all? How do I keep the Acrylic beanie from being crushed?
Play around with the temperature and pressure. You may not need any pressure depending on the heat transfer material. The goal is to soak the heat into the patch to activate the adhesive and have the adhesive bond to the beanie fabric. The light pressure helps the second part making sure it has contact with the beanie. Also, some acrylic beanies are better to decorate than others. I try to stay away from the really thin beanies.
I'm not sure if I have it anymore. Someone told me the guy took the file down. You may be able to find an alternative or reach out directly to Jeff Fuller to create something like this again!
This was on my F2100 using it as a temp DTF printer. I don't have a good grasp on DTF printers in the market at the moment. Honestly, if you're not looking to produce transfers to sell, I would recommend buying it from a company like Supacolor or stahls
Worn and washed for over a year. I shot this video in January 2023. Probably have washed and dried it (high temp with the rest of my clothes) at least 20 times. It's super super faded now compared to when it was a newer dollar but is still holding on! I stopped wearing it recently though and am just keeping it for the novelty
Could be the density of the design is too high so there's too many stitches on the outline causing it to 'cut' through. You could try a thicker plastic or I have seen people use a rubber-y style clear couch covering and the material is a bit more forgiving.
@Loves Branding, THANK YOU FOR THE COMPARISON VIDEO! I ordered Sulky embroidery foam yesterday and it should arrive today. Several years ago, I used craft foam on sunhats and items that will not be washed. I recently saw a video that stated if you’re using foam for an item that will be washed, you need to make certain that you use embroidery foam that is designed to be washed. Also, I noticed some people lightly and carefully use a heat gun to “shrink the foam” where it peaks out after clean up.
I love Gunold foam but this video is older and I know a few other companies have a dense foam option that I didn't get to test out. Definitely worth investing into a heat gun to clean it up after. Its a minimal difference but these small things will make it look better! I personally like this tube style heat gun I got: amzn.to/3wWFc67
Hey Loves Branding, ive always wanted to start something like this but im not sure where to begin making t-shirts. i know the epson f series are quite pricey , is there a cheaper way / what would you do as a beginer to start if you had to do it all over again. that would be a great video !
I started way back with a vinyl cutter doing vinyl decals. I then learned about heat transfer vinyl and was making simple 1/2 color shirts. With embroidery, you can get a reasonably cheap table top embroidery machine for $600-900 but there are limitations on size and can only do 1 thread color at a time. If you're wanting prints, it might be easiest to invest in a heat press for a few hundred $$ and then order full color transfers that you can press onto the shirts. Each method has its pros and cons but I would suggest watching a ton of videos and see what suits you best. Personally, if I were to start over (but had everything I learned) I would invest into a used 6 or 8-head embroidery machine. Its incredibly expensive but the profit is crazy, especially doing it out of your home. Alternatively, I would probably just go the heat transfer/heat press route. Its requires less experience and expertise but the margins are a bit smaller.
I use 75/11 for everything! I'm sure you can adjust to better dial in on these materials but it worked for me. Just make sure the design isn't too dense or it will cut through.
All the equipment is very expensive but prices on DTG & DTF technology is dropping and its not as much as it used to be. If you're looking for just DTF, there are many smaller machines available that are extremely affordable!
I been doing embroidery for over 20 years and I never had a problem embroidering a hat, any brand, Richardson, New era , flex fit, yupong ,etc, the problem is your Machine, unfortunately you have a melco, is the worse machine to do hats, is a useless machine, the only way to make it work us with a computer connected directly to the machine, it doesn't have a built in computer with a USB , to Dan load the dst. Program. Use needle 12 or 14, and a speed of 650 s/m , to have a quality embroidery, I'm a digitizer too, so the design have to be done correctly.
This video was made to help people who are struggling with caps. I have since switched to Barudan but personally, my Melco handled caps extremely well. There are many variables but the most common issue I see with people having trouble with caps is the cap frame is not properly adjusted and there is too much of a gap between the cap and needle plate which allows for deflection and broken needles. Digitizing is also important though!
ok mr./ms. digitizer....should the digitizing be having stitches go across the seam and not in the seam? is that my issue? ( I have a Ricoma 1501 in case you need to know)
You would need to either sew it on or use some sort of adhesive to attach it! I personally am a big fan of heat n bond since it's so easy to use and holds up very well over time.
