he replaced everything except the actual engine, he fails to know the name of the parts, or even how to set the air gap on the flywheel pick, very very armaturish.
Have a question about my Chevy Cruze and it's a 2016 first generation. Do they have rear main oil seals and if they do how hard is it to replace and what might it cost to have one replaced if they even have one. I was wondering? I know the front crankshaft pulley have a seal just wanted to know if it has a rear main oil seal. Thanks and God bless
No, you run the risk of putting the swash plate, pump, and internals out of alignment. The shaft holds everything centered and very likely won't go back together without disassembly.
I saw a video that I think was from the University of Minnesota that said if you have a Buckthorne that you saw it off about 2 feet above the ground and just strip any branches and go back several times over a year or so and keep stripping off any branches or suckers that pop out and then the root of the tree will eventually just die due to lack of nutrients and Sun. I wonder if that really works? Would be a nice way to not have to use chemicals.
I apply Chem with a foam brush. Really good control that way. Don’t think the holes are necessary Tordon works great. Don’t spray it, apply directly and carefully. Get the big ones out first that are the berry producers. Then go back for the little ones.
@in-depthdiy2123 Firstly, Thank you very much for the video. Question: It is nearly 4 years since your video was posted. Do you still have the vehicle? And is the repair still working? Or is the leak back? I have the same vehicle. I am the original owner. It has very low miles (50K miles). But, it is starting to exhibit that same annoying drip of oil down the side of the oil pan. Thus, I'm considering the same repair. And wondering if your repair has been long lasting, or if you would do something different in hindsight.
I just did one side and I was frkng praying dude! 😂😂😂😂😂 I though I had my cylinder at TDC after removing the spring and I gently with the grip of a mantis lowered the valve to insure contact with the piston.... It did not touch the piston 😂😂😂😂 I freaked out lol but! I chilled and water turning the engine until it finally touched ! And the a proceeded
When removing throttle linkage. Open throttle then put a screw driver into and under the butterfly to hold it open then release the throttle and it will fall off!
Good illustration more lighting would help you my man why doesn't anyone put pan on dry for engine support with a few bolts? The pan job and timing job are two separate tasks with this engine I don't know about you but I'm not putting my head under engine supported with a hoist or something... pan is last job after timing is done let rtv cure from timing cover job your suppost to put it in those strategic problem areas before torquing cover...onced cured pull dry oil pan straight edge were that crap oozed out from timing cover and then apply silicone to pan job done no leaks
Repalced my seal with one i had from a mahle or felpro kit couldnt remember which. Felt so proud until i turned the engine on and the oil came pouring out like a stream. Of course its sunday and no oem parts available anywhere. Guess it will just have to wait until the new seal arrived 🤦♂️ 6 hours between the seal and replacing inner outter tie rods.
So I had one that smoked but would still work. I took it apart and all gears looked good, motor looked good. I cleaned out some of the grease as it seemed to coagulate due to not being used for a few years (it was a gift). I put everything back together and now it won’t even turn on. Any idea what I could have done??
Ok, this is crazy what I just discovered. I have two machines here for repair. No start. Cleaned the carb, fresh fuel and then I wondered why I had no spark. So I read on the internet and it was the oil level switch. I am so ashamed I didn't check for this first. Filled up the oil and she started up immediately.. .Honda GX120
Good info for disassembly. My wife’s would not stay in the off position on first try. I found the screw for the on/off speed lever was slightly loose. To tighten, you have to completely disassemble like in this video. I removed the lever screw and added a drop of loktite. All good now.
Great video. Thanks. I dont drill holes, and never seen anyone recommend drilling holes. If only dear would eat buckthorn like goats do. I spent my whole day cutting buckthorn with my chainsaw and lobbers. Time well spent.
I have the same chainsaw ... it has less than 10 hours of use. I have had to replace the piston twice for same issue, scored piston. Stihl is refusing to repair or replace the saw. It will cost me $275 to have a local Stihl dealer replace the piston. Obviously a defective lemon. I will never own another Stihl. Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I need help I have a 3800 series 2 1997 Grand Prix gtp can I follow the same method to do the rear head ? I’m not sure if I can turn the crank to tdc or should I shove some rope inside the spark plug ?
It would have just been easier to take the saw apart.then you can go in and clean your saw up and check other things as well but I noticed on your video you didn't show that you hooked up the in pulse line in the back you threw it all together and I watched the video twice.
