Does a failed pcv valve cause coolant to mix with the engine oil? I had a lot of oil in the cylinder heads I had to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine manually to remove the oil out. I’m also thinking it could be a failed head gasket no too sure! SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
Failed PCV could cause oil/water mix but so could head gasket. Perform a compression test and leak down test before you do anything else. You can also do an exhaust gas test on coolant expansion tank. Is the exhaust smoking at all?
I always use the official Audi site for that. With used vehicles it’s difficult to know if the correct bolt has been installed. Here’s an example from the Audi site with the water pump: parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_2010_S4-Base-Sedan-30L-V6-AT/67800922__5970142/WATER-PUMP/1399107.html#1
If the pulley is wobbling it’s either not attached to the water pump correctly or the water pump has failed. Definitely worth checking. Squeals can be caused by many things but a new belt once you have fixed the wobbly pulley should eliminate that.
My car occasionally activates the check engine, indicating miss fire on cylinder 1 and cylinder 4. I already changed the spark plugs and coils, my mechanic told me that it could be the charcoal filter. Any experience about it?
Have you used a BMW scan tool to look for codes? If it is misfiring noticeably there should be at least a stored code in there. That might help narrow things down.
It’s because they stretch when you torque them. Basically just weaker if you reuse: rts.i-car.com/crn-1316.html#:~:text=What%20is%20a%20torque%2Dto,box%2C%20and%20suspension%20mounting%20locations.
Nice work. One minor detail that I just love, retaining the Greddy mufflers. Just nice to see the car retain some JDM flavor despite the LS. I love rotary engines, I've owned one for years, but an LS in this car feels ok to me. It was such a compromised version of the rotary.
Very helpful video. I was able to pull the water pump off with out placing the front end in service mode or removing the supercharger. It’s very tight but with the right tools you can get it off with limited removal of items.
You were able to replace the water pump without removing the supercharger? What about the t-stat? My water pump just dumped all the coolant and I'm in emergency repair. I really don't have the time to do the PCV and everything at once. I just need the water pump replaced for now. Please help with any insight. I have a 2015 Q5 TFSI 3.0.
@@mk_ultrarunner I’m waiting for my parts to come in but I didn’t need to pull the supercharger off to remove water pump on 2018 a6. It was a tight squeeze between engine to cooling fans. Not sure how much more space you have in a q5. For t-stat you’re going to definitely need to pull supercharger off. Make sure to use correct size torx but and don’t strip them. Take your time. Best to break water pump pulley bolts loose while belt is still on.
@@andrequiroz4657 Thanks. It's still a tight squeeze but I definitely don't want to put the car in to service mode. Gonna be a real pain with all those coolant lines to remove still. I may just go ahead and remove the supercharger to get the t-stat and water pump done, but the PCV body may have to be a different project for a different day. I suppose if the PCV was the primary issue (I do have a code, but no dash lights), I would go ahead and do everything, but my car is undriveable at the moment.
@@mk_ultrarunnerwhy would putting it in service mode be a hassle? I assume your talking about the bumper, few bolts and it tilts forward. That what you mean?
Great video thanks! Searching for answers because I have a cylider 1 misfire after doing a heap of maintenance. I didn’t have this code or condition prior to taking supercharger off, cleaning valves and intake runners + much more. I broke some electrical connectors and replaced with Audi. Codes are Cylinder 1 misfire & Hide cylinder I didn't have this problem before my "maintenance" Any input would be appreciated
That sucks :( Start by swapping the coil from cylinder 1 to 2 and 2 to 1. See if it follows the coil. Then do the same with the plugs. Even new parts can fail out of the box. That will at least eliminate those parts. Beyond that, unfortunately you might have to dig into the injectors :( Did you do anything to the injectors whilst you had the supercharger off? Double check the wiring to 2 and look at the connector contacts.
@FindingSeconds First many thanks for responding! I did not take out injectors, I did remove intake runners to clean & clean valves. When removing connectors to injectors the tabs broke so I bought new connectors to replace. I think I know where I'm going next....back to see the injectors. Checking OBD Eleven again to see if I can test electric to injectors/ performance test.
@@stevek9670anytime you remove supercharger you have to replace the 6 rubber rings. If you removed the manifold you need to replace the 6 more . They are green and orange. While in there people replace the round tube that is under the supercharger it’s like 10 bucks but can get clogged. The other issue might be you accidentally squished or damaged one of the injector rings , they’re the ones that sit at the very top of injectors, the green ones. They can sometimes get pulled off when removing supercharger
@Pwnulolumad I did replace all of what you stated, including injector orings. Just had grad party prep so it's soon I'll roll it back in to hopefully resolve. Honestly seems weird that under 2,500 RPM no codes... One thing I have seen is a required software refresh after PCV replacement (on some types). I'm not sure if mine is the one. No PCV codes however was reason 1 other than 199K refresh....
As long as it is only a top up you are fine. If the overflow tank is empty, you might get an air bubble. Either way the cooling system is a sealed system. You’ll need to hunt down why you are low. These cars are prone to oil and coolant leaks. Don’t let things drag on as it will get expensive!
title is misleading. you are only telling what you got, what needs to be installed, and other things. but not really anything related to tracking, just a 3 second video of it.
Check out this video for that: VANOS solenoids bleeding and replacement in 5 minutes! (E60 V10 M5) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZKfqa0QRWso.html
@@FindingSeconds np! What happened is that I lost the new pin(felt down with no trace, haha) and tried adding old back. It sit snug and all looked fine (checked after running idle) until… car heated up and it began not to hold up the sensor(somehow). I am quite positive it was unbroken as well as installed properly (both sides equal, etc). Will try to inspect later today whats an issue and why it did not hold - been doing it without charger off, thus its a pain 🙈
Always best to 100% confirm. I checked the PCV valve for example on FCP and parts.audiusa.com. The figment there indicated it was for 2010-2012. Looking for the same part name on the 2013 indicated it there was a newer AH version. This is assuming US model years. Where are you ordering from?
I’ve tried looking a few times but I can find a good parts lookup for you. The US model years are slightly different (10 cars were sold in 2009). Also there might be slight variations from region to region due to local regulations. Might be best to call a dealer.
my 2020 BMW 330i is having the same issue and the Dealership told me it is this "BMW 16 13 7 466 242 Activated Charcoal Filter would this be the same process to change it out ?
As far as I can tell it would be similar. Unfortunately I don't know enough about the later BMWs or the 330i. Might want to look for a workshop manual or access to TIS. I did a quick search but like you may have already found, there aren't many videos or data on that part/car yet :( Sorry!
The TSB below has all of the details. Long story short, the older PCV ran the crankcase pressure higher than the new one. It resulted in increased oil consumption. Switching to the new revision the ECU has to be reflashed to stop it throwing a code when it see’s a lower crankcase pressure. Hope that helps! static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10119987-9999.pdf
This might be a silly question but do I have to disconnect something from the vanos system to run the bleed procedure? This is because I imagine it’s like bleeding the brakes where a hose has to be disconnected…
No such thing as a silly question :) In short no. The bleeding procedure works the system and keeps building/releasing pressure. This helps work out the air internally. Great question!
Best I had out of the rotary was 22.1mpg (US gallon) on the drive home from buying the car (1800 miles). With the LS3 it will do 19-20 around town :) I haven’t done any big road trips yet to do a fair comparison. Round town the RX-8 was 15.
Only problem with ls1 swap is it throws the weigjt balance off, which is the defining point of the rx8 chasis. The lfx swap is the way to go. V6 perfect size
Nope, all good with the starter. It's just a way to wire in the starter and the alternator. Each of them have to be directly connected to +12V. You can either run the wires in series like I have or in parallel. The starter is the thing that draws the most current on the car when cranking. This way you can run the largest wire to to the starter and then smaller wires from there. Just got used to doing this on race cars!
@FindingSeconds ....after I run mine for a bit, turn it off and then go to restart, it will slow crank for a bit almost like it doesn't want to start.....but then it cranks fast and fires right up. Acts like the battery is dead for a bit. That's why I asked. Any ideas?
If it does it every time, check your battery voltage just before starting it a second time. If that all checks out it is likely a ground or 12v connection somewhere. Just checking you have a ground strap for the engine to chassis? I think I may have a couple. I have another video on the channel that digs more into the electrical side of things.
@FindingSeconds ....just bought the car over the weekend. I plan on testing everything next weekend and reporting back. I have a feeling it's a ground but I wanted to ask your opinion in advance. I like your videos and appreciate the time it took for you to make them. Thank you!
A3 paddle shift pulls off in gear 2 then 4 and suppose 6 the car goes into reverse won't engage 1.3.and 5 I gather 1side of gearbox what is the issue please help
I have a 2011 A5 30tdi V6 240 with this transmission and i get a intermittent jump from 2nd gear to 1st and also reverse creeping is delayed, even if revved. Been told by Audi needs a Mech kit, is this correct? or is it the characteristics of the car? Thanks
The TSBs I show (and the ones you can find on the site for your car) talk about a possible SW update. Do you have anyway to pull the SW version of the unit?
Great video including the detail, also you are correct about not removing the sub brace while on the wheels a lot of you tube videos have the car on its wheels. Did you perform a transmission adaption after the oil change?
I did not. Audi recommends changing it every 30-40K so not sure how different the oil will be. I haven't found any official documentation saying an adaptation was needed. Is this something you have seen?
Yes there are a few videos showing the adaptation via VCDS after a service. Just priced the parts from Audi including new bolts for the cross brace £370.
hey im on my way to doing my swap i talked about last year. I have a 2008 rx8, t56 transmission and just getting engine and stuff sorted. I have the aluminum diff housing from the 93 - 99 tbird, not sure if its best to go with 28 or 31 spline (t2 torsen comes in both). one question i have is what diff ratio did you use for this build? thanks!
Hey @tylersmith7914, that's awesome! Can't wait to see how it turns out. I used a 31T spline on my torsion. Only because that is what the cobra diff had originally and matched the parts from V8R. I left the gears at 3.55. The car is light and I didn't see much benefit going to a 3.73 or 4.10. The LS3 has so much torque it will currently wheel spin in almost any gear :D
Are you talking about a SW update or a TCU tune? If it is a SW update, that unfortunately I can’t answer. As far as I know, there isn’t a way for the community to update SW as yet. The TSBs do list running adaptations if you replace some of the parts (not all). My assumption would be that when the SW is updated, the procedure either recommends resetting the adaptations or does it automatically. As far as a TCU tune goes it isn’t something that I have seen recommended. I do know on some of the older DSGs people would reset adaptations every couple of months to help with an aging transmission. I’ve done tunes on many cars and have yet to need to reset adaptations after. If you have different experience I would love to know.
My S7 has the "bump" when coming to stop. When it shifts to first and stopping the clutch engages, causing the car to push forward. Its very concerning and causes the engine to surge rpm and hunt for idle. It has also cause the car to stall if the surge is hard enough. 2016 model so its not listed as an issue.
Hey Chris, I just looked up the TSBs for your car (using the method I indicate in the video). Here was the top link in the power train section: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10174954-0001.pdf Looks like the only solution to that was a replacement mechatronics unit. The document indicated it was covered by warranty for the first 4 years or 50K miles. I would recommend reaching out to Audi with that document to see if they can help still. Hope that helps.
Awesome, the document said about ordering by the VIN and also had information in it about making sure the clutches etc were completely adapted (before it was necessary to replace the mech). Is Audi working with you on it?
@FindingSeconds no a friend of mine and myself are replacing it. We've had it out once for new harnesses and solenoids. No change. I hope it's something to do with the fluid passages or the gear selector cups. If not then it may be a clutch pack issue. We've done multiple adaptations with no changes. Did new fluid, new harness, new solenoids even though old ones Ohmed good. It's had a TCU tune and it's just gotten worse over time. Especially with the increased clutch pressure for the tune. It's been doing this since it was stock around 30k miles. I never knew it was under warranty until it had over 50k on it. It's at 90k now. It's been a great car otherwise. Low 11s and a daily driver. I just work around the shifting by manually shifting into 1st around 5mph.
