I am about to align my 1970 Maverick. Can someone tell me if I need to add shims and loosen the control arm bolts? Does the "Suspension Tension" pull the control arm away from the tower or keep pressure against the tower? Do I get bonus points for using suspension tension in a sentence?
This video was super helpful to me. I have a step van with a 80le tranny with a 6.5 diesel and two grill mounted transmission coolers, I haven't been able to find replacement lines for the current ones, this looks like a good path forward. Have you had any issues with the lines?
Looks great mate! Can I ask what sort of compressor you were using for blasting? I have a 50L 9.5 CFM compressor but I keep seeing sellers of blast media recommending that you require a minimum of 18 CFM for the media to work...
my rubber stickers fell out after a day of driving, i ordered another set and ill use a higher quality super glue this time, if it still doesnt work ill try your method looks good
one of the best wiring videos i've seen. nice job! love the humor, too. just a note about the inertia switch - i thought the mounting was directional. by that i mean i thought the red button had to be facing up. apparently not. so, i learned something by watching!
Hey - did you install a reat seat in the car? Wondering if it interferes with the retractor. I like that setup better than the ones that use a single mount location with the slotted bracket hanging off it. I have a '70 so the upper mount location is already there.
No issues. The pickup is in the deepest part of the tank and I don't let it get below 1/4 tank. Fuel pressure has never dropped below 57psi in any of my data logs.
It is! I've made one small addition since the video though, adding a check valve to the top to ensure I'm not drawing in air, only exhausting through that under boost.
Hi this is Corey Studwell, we have a 63 plymouth fury, with a 318 poly. Can we pay you for motor mounts and oil pan? We are planning on LS swapping it. and we dont know where to buy parts. In advance thank you. Regards, Corey.
I'd like to smooth the firewall on my 74 Duster. The B body has that seam or pinch weld running in a nice symmetrical arc but, the A body one isn't so nice looking. Can that just be cut smooth and then, can you run a bead along it to attach the two sections again?
Yeah, if I didn't have the nice looking pinch seam I would have just welded the two panels together, ground it down, and used body filler to smooth it out. That approach is probably more structurally sound regardless.
Question, headers and exhausts that come already ceramic coated I believe are coated on the inside and outside? If that’s true if diy just the outside won’t the inside surface metal get crazy hot? I know hotter means faster evacuation, but that heat concentration on the unprotected inside can’t be good for the metal? I read a comment somewhere that said too much heat can literally explode the metal from the inside. Can’t be good for a muffler either, especially a motorcycle muffler with just steel wool inside. I believe the ceramic on the outside is doing the opposite of dissipating heat, it’s actually acting like a shield and not allowing the heat to dissipate through the metal into the cooler air. That’s why it doesn’t feel as hot. But the inside I think is hot as hell, more so than normal. That’s why a coating on the inside is there on finished parts, the heat has no where to go but out. I’m interested to hear your or anyones thoughts on this. And if I’m right, how the hell do you diy a good coat on the inside of a long header or pipe? 🤔
