Did this job today, with your video as a guide. Thanks alot. Used an hour or so on the job, but did not remove the wheel and liner. Just squizeed my fingers in, to plug the connectors back in. Also iused a lot of time to open the 5 point torx, what a stupid idea to use 5 point safety torx. Now its time for a beer. 🎉
Hur mycket procent förlorar du i kölden? Jag kommer nog köpa en polestar men har panik över att bli strandad pga bilens uppvärmning av batteriet i kalla temperaturer. Hur mycket procent förlorar du i kölden?
For a product that's supposed to fit the Polestar 2 specifically it's weird that the plastic keyed covers don't fit more flush to the car. The clamps shouldn't be visible with a big gap between the car and the covers. Bummer.
Got three Nissan 24kWh packs, bought the individual modules from a company that resells EV batteries. Put them in 14S and use a Batrium WM5 Bms, its now running for nearly 3 years. Next project is a HV EV battery which does not need to be disassembled
hey! i got my hands on 2 modules, and i am going to make a 72V for an Ebike build. havent started anything yet, so im just looking for some info on the modules. did u dissect them and make another voltage and use for them? if so, u have any experience to share? :)
Hi I have a question and hope you see this soon. I have to do this seemingly relatively simple repair. But for my i3 I have to change the door release mechanism, not the charge socket lock. My question is about safety. Of course I’d disconnect the emergency shut off under the front trunk but is that enough? As I understand it the door release mechanism is not part of the high voltage system so just disconnecting the front truck emergency shut off should be safe enough. Is this correct?
It was so long ago that I was working on the i3 that it is a bit hard to remember and I’d rather not guess. But my impression was that there is no exposed cables or connectors behind the charging door. So the emergency shut off sounds like a safe idea, I never pulled that one though.
@@BasinBjorn thanks for the reply. Yes it seems like it should be a relatively “simple” replacement. I’ll just do the shut off at the front and get it done. Thank you.
Firstly, thanks for your awesome content! How has the RTT affected your range on P2? Do you remember average consumption by any change? How does it compare to the camper you built? Is there some reason you went with RTT instead of the camper? I am planning to go on a road trip with my P2, and I am still wondering if the RTT is a solution or if I should just sleep in the car. Additionally, I have been thinking about something like a teardrop camper, but due to the route, there might be 100-150km distances without a charger, and I don't know if the 2021 P2 can handle it. And about the RTT, are you using the factory roof rack or something else? I saw a Reddit post by RaphaTlr, which was a bit worried about the RTT damaging the car because the clamp style isn't "secure." Do you have any opinion about this?
I believe the consumption increased with 18% on the P2 for my RTT setup. The roof racks I used was the Polestar ones, bought from their web shop in the app. They to clamp around the doors and yes it is not 100% perfect. After I removed them and sold the tent, I had slept perhaps 3 weeks in the RTT and the “damages” I could see was: scuff marks from the rubber contacting on the paint and two small dents in the roof. One dent was from a rock bouncing hood-window-underside tent- roof of car. I’d at least recommend applying a clear vinyl wrap to protect the paint where the rack has contact with the car. Also, one time I had one of the four hooks on the rubber feet coming loose. I just moved it back and tightened. Never came loose again. But: I was also always careful to not place all my weight in the front or back of the RTT cause that would cause more stress on the roof rack. But it worked fine! Sound levels increased a lot. But was fine driving 130-140 kph.
About the teardrop camper: The reason we got a RTT and not just took the teardrop was only so we could drive faster. With the camper we’d be stuck with like 80-90 kph and we wanted to drive faster. Also cheaper on the ferry without the camper. But the camper would be more comfortable and a little easier with the kitchen area. Hard to remember the consumption with the camper but I should have a video on that. But I think it was +30%. And around 280-300-330 wh per /km. But 200km non stop with the teardrop camper was not a problem! Also: parking at the chargers with the teardrop hooked on the car is some times not possible, so I had to unhook and park it separately and then charge. (Inconvenient)
This process worked for me, however I recommend jacking both sides of the front of the car up to remove upward tension from the anti-roll bar. If you dont do this it will be difficult to disconnect the anti-roll bar connecting rod and you won't be able to pull the spring and shock assembly out of the wheel arch. Other than that the process works well.
Tjena Björn! Finns det möjlighet att få köpa färdigprintat av dig och då den senaste versionen av magsafehållaren (vänster) + 2st svarta muggållare med tillhörande ”fjädrande plastring” i samma färg, vad skulle det kosta i så fall? Har nyss köpt en svart begagnad p2 med awd 2021 och tänkte piffa upp den med några smarta tillbehör, din magsafehållaren verkar ju toppen, bra ingeniörat där👍🏻 Med vänlig hälsning, Micke i Norrköping
Hej Micke, det går att lösa. Jag har nog även någon färdigprintad liggande hemma. Skicka mig ett mail på bjornalarssson@gmail.com (3st s) så tar vi det därifrån.
The unknown central module is the Battery Heater Control. See: 1:13:45 The website below also gives a thorough explanation of the Nissan Leaf battery pack. It is offered by an instructor at Weber State University. The total length of the video is slightly under 2 hours. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vYQJatWpBXY.html
Hi, I noticed your Polestar 2 does not have the passenger dashboard lighting? I just purchased a Polestar 2 and found out that the high illumination is part of the Plus package, which I didn't realise at the time of purchase. Are you able to do an instruction video on how to install the missing lighting (passenger dash, center console, door welcome light and boot lighting) that would be available with the Plus package? Thanks heaps
You left the BMW badge in the middle. It is stuck on with double sided mounting tape, like the others, and you can use dental floss to remove it, like the others. However, the inner surface of the glass on the tailgate has an opaque black coating. This coating has been omitted in the areas of the taillights, of course. Also, there is a 3cm diameter window in the coating under the BMW logo, so if you remove the logo, then this round "hole" will become visible. My car had a rectangular white sticker stuck on the inside, over this round gap. The sticker was very difficult to remove, as it had to be accessed from inside.
Am i right to assume since each module is 2s2p what the middle contact of each module is for balancing? If you measure the volage across the middle contact is it half of the modules voltage?
