I made this youtube channel to show you my work on BMW E38. I'll show also my work on my Lotus Elise S1 later. They are old cars and they need to be refreshed and maintened.
I am simply sharing my work, I'll probably do some mistakes, some things which won't work out.
My 540 threw a diag code about the active thermostat. It turns out that it was stuck at 105° C. Part of the reason why the famously exploding coolant hose exploded. Now using a 95° C thermostat from the 840i. I would assume that 85° C is only useful for its original purpose: desert climate
Merci pour la super vidéo! Un travail respectueux de votre part ! Salutations chaleureuses de Garry (61) de Munich (Allemagne - ville de l'Oktoberfest) et restez en bonne santé avec votre famille !
Merci pour la super vidéo! Un travail respectueux de votre part ! Salutations chaleureuses de Garry (61) de Munich (Allemagne - ville de l'Oktoberfest) et restez en bonne santé avec votre famille !
Thank you for the great video ! A respectful job from you ! Warm greetings from Garry (61) from Munich (Germany - Octoberfest city) and stay healthy with your family !
Hello, under this year's cold winter my car was parked inside the garage for a period of 6 month now. its March of 2024, I started my 2001 BMW 7 series, then all of the sudden I heard a noise coming from the front of the car, when I checked noticed the noise is coming from the AC-Compressor. Its so strange that the AC is not even on but still make the noise. Last year I changed the timing belt, starter, Ac-belt, tensioner and all of the pullies. I thought the AC- compressor looked good and did not change it. In your video I saw that you replaced two valves on two hoses. My Question is are both the valve same or they are different from each other and by any chance do you remember the part numbers. Thank you for the video too.
Hey, man, splendid work! I am battling a rusty tank and was wondering what were the new parts you installed at the end ? Could you perhaps provide part numbers for them ? Thanks!
Good job, I use ramps for my oil changes, quicker than jacking the full car up. I'm in the UK, our oil usually comes in 4 or 5 litre plastic bottles, not 2 litre metal ones. Looks like a leak from the coolant tank cap. Replaced mine, the tank can split and leak. Decat 😉
OK. --- This video omits the most important and difficult part. The trick to get the rear cap with the new brushes on is to remove a small pressed-on silver plug at the tip of the end piece. It is next to the centrical connector. You can then get a tiny flat blade screwdriver inside to maneuver the brushes apart and past the bearing and onto the commutator ring contact. 11mm is the absolute max that will fit. 10mm x 5 mm x 5mm fits the best. You can buy any size bigger and easily file the brushes to size, they are soft graphite. Also "weld" is just soldering the braided copper wire.
Nice job - my 111S has been misfiring and the petrol gauge is sticking. The only way to fix the gauge is tank out and new pump so new tank ordered as well and new lambda sensor, plugs and petrol filter to give it all a birthday present.
I bought that exact thermostat, paired it with a BMW resistor plug that fits the connector. I see the SES light on at all times. If I clear it, it comes back the next time I start the car. I know there's the Bremmen brand which I may try, but from my understanding, the DME runs different software on the 2003 BMW e39 540is, vs the 2002, 01,00, etc and so the 2003 cars cannot be fooled unless I code it, which I don't know how to do. IF anybody knows how to run this Tstat without coding, please let me know.
Thank you for your helpful video 😁 My boot opened pretty normally but closed like in 25 seconds. I replaced the oil by taking off the reservoir and filling that one up (seen in another video). I didn't knew a certain bolt had to stay off for the air to escape. Now I know, thanks. Currently my boot doesn't open anymore but I feel he's trying. Closing works but kinda slow and I need to give it a little push down at first. I will try to fix it again soon
When the pump gets noisy, the fluid needs topping up. There is no need to remove the pump. A 5mm hex wrench cut down allows the fill screw to be removed. Filling has to be done slowly as it takes time to dribble through to the reservoir, using a short length of clear tuning. BMW fluid is wildly expensive, so locate Aeroshell 41 instead. The pump can be removed without removing the white module in the video.If the pump is removed, reposition the clip to the reservoir so the head faces towards you, so it can be tightened later if necessary.
I see alot of questions asking for a error for not connecting the wire. All should be fine without a warning light. If it does show you can connect the inside of the plug itself and it won't trow a code
