Cut a long story short, if you own a vehicle with this engine in, put aside the money you save from the improved fuel economy as you’ll need it to pay for the cambelt replacement.
Simon Rees , my C-Max 2014 64 reg , does around 31 - 36 Mpg (44 on a gentle 55-60Mph on motorway at 2000-2200rpm in 6th gear) but that’s it , this 55Mpg is complete and utter nonsense as they test it on a rolling road with no load or pulling any weight for about 4 miles and work it out from there . It’s a big heavy 1.5T car (1.9T fully laden) to pull for such a small block where as a fiesta is around 1T or 1.6 T fully laden so a big difference. Mondeo 1.0 Ecoboost must be even worse for economy?
@@richie674 Putting the 1.0 ecoboost in cars bigger than the fiesta was a silly move by ford in my opinion. From my experience, the ecoboost tends to suffer far more in the larger cars.
I've got a MY21 Focus Active Estate with the 1.0l 155ps mild hybrid. That "hybrid" system opens another entire can of worms im sure. (Especially when the battery gives up the ghost) If I don't care about how I drive, give it some fairly often, and only do short town trips. I tend to see a return of 45mpg. If I drive more conservatively on long motorway stints (in "eco mode" @65mph on the dash) I'm seeing anwhere between 64mpg and 68mpg even with 3 adult passengers and light luggage. That's with an empty weight between 1.4T and 1.5T
One thing (among others) that shocked me was that the oil pump/balance shaft belt drive and the cam drive gears are not keyed to the crankshaft. Which is why there's the need for special tools to keep the whole mess timed while you replace these belts - whether these are the world's best belts ever, not probably going to matter too much as this has all the hallmarks of being a cheaply made, failure prone engine. Ten years. 😂
Exactly this scenario with my granddaughter's Fiesta oil light is on and making strange noise, obviously not driving the car. She smelt petrol a couple of times but not bad, oil light came on and oil level checked was very high, probably with petrol that has degraded the belt blocked the filter and she is told the engine is scrap. Have done some research via internet and local garages and this is a common problem. Standard cam belt is about £400 to £500 to replace for a lot of cars these engines cost £1500 to replace , if Dayco designed this they should be ashamed. Never buy a car with one of these engines.
Done one this week for the first time. Tools used: Sealey VSE5945 flywheel tool A drill bit 100mm M10 threaded bar Tip-ex Milwaukee M18 Fuel Propane torch Halfords socket set Snap-on digital torque wrench Must say it's funny to see how active these videos are becoming now the 10 years is coming up on these cars.
@@gooseuk1985 233 gbp for the belt kit for me. Expensive for a belt. The propane is for the bottom pulley bolt by the way. They are tight. Only needs warming a bit. Threaded rod for Crank lock through block at back.
I have a question, please: Will using an internal cleaner ( Liqui Moly 1019, or Tunap flush ) every time the oil is changed will damage the timing belt? Thanks a lot
Just so you’re aware the bottom crank gear is on the wrong way in this video, mine fell off when I was replacing the belt and I used this video to see which way the crank gear went back on and when I was turning the engine over to recheck timing the belt was walking off the can pulleys!!
Does Ford Europe have a totally different service schedule for this motor? In the States there is no timing belt replacement interval, there's merely a check and you just keep running it unless it's physically coming apart.
Donald Johnson yes there is , it’s 10 years or 150,000 miles which ever is sooner , but I’ve heard that a lot are snapping after 90,000 miles here in the uk well before the 10 year lifespan . I have to say that when these engines were first released in 2012 that they came with NO service interval as the engine was a lifetime belt in oil (BIO) but Ford then released the interval information soon after . A bit strange I thought as we all know belts do not last the life of the engine . Not even timing chains do either.
@@richie674 your UK cycle must be extra harsh on the belts, here in the States I've worked on quite a few of these all over 90k (miles). I've never seen a single belt failure ever. Maybe something changed since they were launched stateside in 2014?
😂😂 Considering the prevalence of oil lube shops that will literally stick the same oil in everything I'm surprised the US hasn't seen more failures. Service intervals in the UK is 18k miles or 2 years, granted our average use is more town diving than highway purely because we are much smaller so tend to have less need to travel between major cities or states like you do over there. Even the heavy use interval is 12.5k miles (earlier cars switched to this for all services)
I just surpassed 100,000mi in a US spec Ecosport with the 1.0L EcoBoost. Thinking about an oil pump and timing belt replacement. You are right some of these engines are failing because the oil pump is getting clogged with bits of rubber from the timing belt. Others like this one that is 10 years old look good. What do you think the problem is? Is it lack of maintenance and lack of regular oil changes that's degrading the belt? I have a US spec 2020 EcoSport that just surpassed 100,000 miles. I know the potential problems with the 1.0L. I regularly change the fluids I use nothing but synthetic oil I change it every 6,000 to 7500 mi. I have regularly been using 0w20 oil to maximize cold start oil flow. Keep everything lubricated quickly as possible. Ford originally said 150,000mi change interval and life expectancy of the belts. 2018 and 2019 US models were subjected to a TSB from Ford about failing tensioner and pulley and belts failing. Any engine produce after April of 2019 was no longer subject to that problem and was corrected according to Ford. My engine was not part of the TSB. So far, so good. Recommendations?
Rubber timing belts don’t go well with engine oil. Regardless on how many oil changes you perform. Ford was just too cheap to use a proper timing chain.
@@applepoop10supposedly it was for "Low friction" benefits and silent operation. They are failing earlier than dry belt equivalents, at least with a dry belt you would be aware it needs changing, anyone looking at an eco not knowing would assume it is a chain.
This is a brilliant video, however there is just one comment I have, in the video and other videos made from other companies they say you need to remove the drive shaft bracket to access the crankshaft locking pin bolt, this is not needed as this is extra work. you can access the pin while the bracket is still in place.
Yup - I realised this too. But I have seen earlier models before with the shaft in the way at least to insert the pin rather than extract the bolt. I just used a piece of M10 threaded bar personally.
I have a 2014 1.0 ecoboost cmax. It has been pretty well serviced by last owners and I have just had a service done at 39,000. I'm thinking of replacing the belt at 10 years old or 60,000 whichever comes first. Would this be correct.
Lee Finney, I’ve just done mine on my 64reg c-max after 8yrs and just over 24000 miles and mine showed signs of de-laminating but the oil pump gauze was clean and free of debri . Oil pump belt changed too so both changed on age related not so much mileage wise but glad I did it as it’s a mammoth task to carry out 👍
I wonder if this engine is still running... The crank sprocket has been put on back-to-front which will cause the belt to sit in the wrong position and risks it coming into contact with the timing belt cover!
It seems to me to be insane to design an engine using a wet belt. Either chains in an oil bath or a dry belt outside the engine. The former should last a lot longer if designed properly, whilst the replacing the latter ought to be a much simpler and cheaper job again, if designed properly (and it a convenient time to change the water pump too). It's not even as if for many people the wet belt will require replacement less frequently than a dry belt. A modern dry belt can be extended to about 10 years, and for many people (me included) that's a lot less than 100,000 miles. Also, if you happen to pick up a second had car with one of those 1 litre Ecoboost engines, you had better hope that the owner has kept scrupulously to the maintenance schedule with the right lubricants. Reputedly the wrong oil or a flush can be harmful to the belt(s). The 1.5 and 1.6 engines are dry belts. Personally I would tend to avoid those 1.0 litre Ecoboosts.
Baz, there's also a mesh filter in the "Oil Pressure Solenoid" that needs checked, which is beside where crank locking pin screws in. "Garage Wire" RU-vid Channel has a Dayco Training Video at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fDkoaPwbfpg.html showing this at video position "2:17/3:45"
I know, video just shows him doing it with engine out on a stand!! Doesn’t mention the labour time to replace the belt is over 7hrs and that’s without removing the sump to check the strainer. I’d love to know how much this guy charges at his garage to replace everything he mentions in the video (cam belt, tensioner, oil pump, water pump, new oil and coolant etc.) just not worth it on 10+ year old car
Piston one at tdc, cams have square sections for locking them in place. Earlier engines have only two parallel sides on the timing sections, you can set the lobes near to where they need to be then use two set squares to make sure the machined face is 90° to the head before fitting the belt, so long as the vvt pulleys aren't disturbed your cams should align using this procedure. The later engines have four flat surfaces on the cams with qr/barcodes on them, the bar codes need to be at the top you can use a straight edge across them to make sure they are parallel to each other. Because the sump needs to come off anyway I use a flywheel/ring gear locking tool bolted to the gearbox to lock the engine rather than removing the starter motor. You can either indicate off piston one to find tdc or use the locking pin on the front pulley before removing the crank bolt. The front pulley has to be timed to the front cover at tdc no one because the crank sensor runs off of it. With the flywheel locked and the front pulley pegged the belt shouldn't turn when tightening the crank nut so the cams should stay put even without the locking tools. I've done at least a dozen without the tools. Crank nut needs to be 300nm +90° if you don't have the torque multiplier. All in all the tools to do this job cost close to £1000 at one point, they are a little cheaper now but not by much, which is why I do it without them.
@@derekfleming3095 I agree! Alas it was an early engine and 10 year point had clocked up, no one would touch it, only main dealer. There are around 100 parts on the invoice, 40 odd bolts are angle tightened, all must be replaced, it's is indeed a 'dockyard' job to replace the two belts that are inside the engine. It's get it done or replace the engine when they fail or scrap the vehicle. I've been lucky with mine so far. I remember meeting a cousin I hadn't seen in years, and her first words to me were 'you want to get rid of that bloody thing' pointing at the car. She'd had several engines replaced by Ford but called it a day in the end! She was an early member of Facebook 'eco - boom' group.
@@johnrockley9472 the vast majority of engine failures were due to coolant loss, not belt. Mine was 11 years old, 112k, still on the original belts. Secret is to use the recommended castrol oil
How much does this all cost? For example my outgoing Mk5 golf gti, replacing the timing belt, water pump, time and extras, I would have change of £500. This looks more expensive?
Ford quote £1500 for this job A 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of the car roughly. The belt, water pump & tensioner I got for £233 trade OEM and the oil pump belt, new crank bolt, crank seal and timing case water seal for £38 from Ford The rest is labour...
@@troyd-motorsport9933 don't need tooling. Bottle of tip-ex, drill bit, M10 threaded rod and a crank locking tool (through starter hole) is all you need. After doing your first one, you'll have your second done in 2-3 hours. They are surprisingly straight forward.
@@ssss-df5qz yeah the cam lock tool is 1/3 of that cost, the rest is for a torque multiplier. How else would you get to the crazy high torque settings?
@@troyd-motorsport9933 Well I had the M10 threaded rod in the hole at the back of the block to locate the crank for TDC and double checked this with a plug out of cylinder 1 and a 1/4 extension bar. Then I fitted the flywheel locking tool (a sealey brand thing. £30) and held the auxiliary pulley in correct timed position with a philips screwdriver which also doubled as a way of stopping the pulley from spinning as you torque the crank bolt up, which would put it out of time. Very fiddly. The only problem for me here was the aluminium casing that has the timing pin hole for the aux pulley could probably crack with the amount of force but I went for it and it was ok. I'm just going to make a pulley grabber tool to hold the aux pulley in the correct position and not move while I do the bolt up. Someone has done the calculations if you do it this way using the specifications of the torque converter. 350nm then 5 x 16.5 degree angle turns. It's not easy but it worked for me. The cams were a cake walk, just marked them up before old belt was off and engine was at TDC. It's pretty obvious by eye the firing order anyway and the cams literally sit almost perfectly unsprung in the position they need to be in. They were never secured, though I did often check with a straight edge that the two square machined blocks in the casting of the cams (for that stupid tool) were perfectly square to each other by putting the edge across the two cams if you know what I mean? Everything else, the water pump and belt casing was easy. Just make sure you remember to put RTV around the castings in the centre of the belt case for the large through bolts. I almost missed them.
Valve damage is a crap shoot on these Being a 3 cylinder there are points in the cycle that all valves will clear the pistons. Of a dozen I've repaired none have suffered valve damage so far.
Yeah belts are rubbish as mine decided to rip 20% of the teeth of the belt. 92k do well withing it's recommended change at 8k miles usual only do 3k a year....
Who in their right mind would design a engine where the timing belt is soaked with oil? As if it was a timing chain? There should be a lemon law against that.
Please don’t fit the timing belt like this as you will make a costly mistake as the bottom crankshaft pulley is fitted the incorrect way (shoulder should be on the out side and not facing the oil pump pulley) !!!!
I define a big bull*** since they invite you to replace the oil as much you can (twice a year) for maintain this wet belt, and the certified oil has 4L when my camx (in my case) needs 4.5L wtf? And to inspect the belt you basically have to take off the sump oil and to do that you need many hours.
Just because it's same manufacturer,it doesn't mean same quality,one manufacturer might make built for different company according to their quality aspect,so different material can be made by same company because car company has to give certain amount of warranty with their cars, they require higher quality to meet that warranty,so belt labaled FORD for dealer ship has better quality than the one labeled MOTORCRAFT! but it's not worth double the price to get from dealership in general dayco is not such a great company as far as belts go,even if they make it for FORD CO they are just OK in this case,the high quality aftermarket might be better choice,like GOODYEAR(gator back) or CONTITECH,AISIN, DAYCO is made in China anyway
We have a ford Focus 8 year old full service history 74,000 well within Ford timescale to replace the belt 10 years or 100,000 miles thats just gone pop and destroyed the belt and the engine. Ford dont want to know poor design and rubbish after service from ford who dont want to know. Last time we will buy Ford.
The engine that won awards ..is a pile of crap ...wet belt disintigration blocking oil hoses and starving the engine ....not a case of if it fails ....its when it fails
@@steveharper9068 Well I bought a 10 year old used one obliviously but luckily the engine started making noises not long after I bought it and the dealer replaced it with a new engine from ford
Seems to me although this engine is clever technology it's very fragile like a bone china plate. For that reason i won't be buying a vehicle with this Engine. My Lexus hybrid has done 250,000miles without issue and still going strong.
The problem I see regularly with1.0 ecoboost faults are generally because people don't use the correct oil.Many I have seen and I have seen a few,have poor maintenance,lack of oil changes etc. And believe me it's not just ecoboost either many of these small high output engines are suffering,multiair,skyactive,ecotecs ingeniums,etc. all relatively new engine tech from various manufacturers that have serious durability issues,it's widespread too and even the marquee brands are suffering,BMW,mercedes,VAG,Mazda,nissan,mini,we are even starting to see a noticable steady increase in Kia/Hyundai products through the door for some quite expensive repairs and ust from what I hear or read day to day in my work it seems even the mighty Toyota are not immune too!,the payoff for expecting so much from so little,without respecting it. Given that your car has covered 250K it's obvious that you respect yours,I've seen some ecoboosts with very high mileage,the difference in them is care and some degree of mechanical sympathy.
@@areyouundoingthatorwhat9181 Problem is when buying used you don't know what oil has been put in. Also when servicing at independent garages you can't be sure they used the right oil
I own a Toyota 1.8 hybrid with a chain! No issues at all and I drive it carefully and change oil and filter every 10k kilometers. But even this Ford engine can last a long time if used with care and maintained well.
Oil pump clean? This engine must be brand new …. I’ve seen 25k regular oil serviced eco boost engines and the oil pickup is completely blocked to the point it starves the engine and throws the rod bearing in the sump! Worst build of a engine in my opinion!
This is the most idiotic design I’ve ever seen you have so much cost in removing everything to get at the belts which should be relatively straightforward job it’s just a rip off. Of course people faced with a £1500 bill on a car worth maybe £2500 don’t both bother them boom it explodes as the oil strainer blocks up with belt debris or the belt just snaps
Ive just been quoted 320 for the labour, plus parts plus vat. Ford sell both belts for £53 at the minute so not as scary as some people think. These engines come in for a lot of criticism but theyre ok if theyre serviced correctly, you generally only hear about the horror stories. Most or nearly all failures re due to the oil pump pick up gauze becoming blocked leading to oil starvation, cause more often by missing oil changes or using wrong oil, rarely does the belt fail
