Thanks Rick, very helpful, no nonsense, no waffle video which is exactly what is needed when the suns out and all you want to do is figure out why your bike is just saying ‘not today pal’. saved me a lot of time as I pulled the stator off and it looked liked it had been on a BBQ! all sorted now and runs like a song . Top bloke .
The reading depends on the load you have on the machine,. If you're testing with your headlights on, you're going to get a lower voltage b/c that is robbing you of voltage. 13.8 will keep your battery charged. 13.4 is right on the edge of not being able to keep the battery charged.
Hey Rick I was riding and my bike cut off on my way to work. I have a 99 Honda magna. Found stator wasn't charging multimeter showed battery voltage. Watched your video and found connector turned out connector was melted and plastic coating had come off and was shorting to all three yellow wires. Just cut out wires and spliced and soldered in new wires now showing 14.6v thanks for your video I thought for sure was stator.
Dear Ricks Motorsport Electrics, I have purchased a Ricks Stator which replaced my old one for my Kawasaky Versys 650 2007 6 months ago. The bike went fine for 7000 km which I ran last summer, but now my motorbike has problems starting. When using the multimeter I noticed the following: The voltage from the stator (AC) 1000 RPM ......... 11.9V measured on all three phases 5000 RPM ......... 52V measured on all three phases Battery voltage 1000 RPM ......... 11.9V 5000 RPM ......... 14.1V Electrical resistence on all 3 phases = 0.4 ohms None of the 3 phases goes to ground I also checked the battery (YTX 12-BS) on a rectifier and it charges well. If I disconnect the battery while the engine is on, the engine dies within the next 3 seconds (even if I disconnect it at high RPM). My questions are: Does this mean the stator is the problem? As I could tell the regulator (rectifier output voltage) works fine. What are the normal parameters for the Ricks stator I own?
+Mihai Evelin Your bike will not run without a battery. Doesn't matter if your bike is making enough voltage or not. From what you investigated it doesn't seem that you're having any problems with your charging system and there is another problem here. Good luck!
very good video. I have tested numerous bikes 3 phase by unplugging the stator wire and testing across the 3 pins...however in my beta alp 200 (dr200 engine) when I unplugged the stator wire from rectifier to test the engine stopped and would only run with the connector plugged back. I tested it like you did on the video...probes in back of plug and only got 8vac and then less when revving... bike charges battery fine though and it's never killed a battery. but at higher rpm I get a misfire...its not carb and have fitted new ht coil lead cap and no plug. should the 3 phase plug be disconnected to get a reading ? if plugged in should the reading be the same as unplugged ?
Thanks Rick, great video. * 150 cc korean, charging fine, I think. 3 wires * Voltage test, is your connector disconnected? * Mine doesn't start when 3 stator wires are disconnected. Okay? * Plugging into wires right before connector I get 5 vac idle and 15 vac full rpm. Why so different from you? * Connecting each contact to ground I get continuity, .9 ohm. You get 0. Why? * Are there different types of alternator and can you tell what type I have from above?
Are you referring to the OHMs reading? If so, culprit could be a bad connection. Could also be a variance in the meter itself. You can also get strange readings when the battery in the meter is on it's way out. The readings being consistent is more important than just being off a couple tenths of an OHM.
Sorry, no schematic. The bike originally only had an AC regulator (to run the head and taillight), but the kit added a generic DC regulator/rectifier was added. The stator has 2 coils, one for spark and one for head/taillight. I figured that by checking continuity in the 3 wires since I got continuity only between two wires (the lighting coil) and continuity between ground and the other wire (for spark). Any idea what the voltage output should be for the lighting coil at about idle RPM?
I recently had a stator that would not charge when the engine was hot... it tested normally when cold or every time I checked it, even checked A/C voltage output... upon visual inspection I found nothing showing burns, coils all looked good.... I ended up changing the stator, regulator and flywheel all together to get it working again.
I have this problem too. I've just taken the alternator out to rewind but as it's testing good I don't see the point. Trouble is it's not charging the battery. I tested it fine last month when I changed the regulator but now its not charging. Can I ask did you change the regulator first as well or did you spot any connector issues?
Advice please: I tested the stator while the bike was running. 2 of the 3 wires gave consistent numbers (between 22 and 25 ohms) but the third wire gave the number 1.8 ohms, which is the same number all three wires give when the bike is off. Does this mean my stator is bad or that particular wire is bad?
You cannot accurately check resistance (ohms) with power on the circuit (you can destroy your meter though). You'd check the voltage between legs while it's running.
I got ac 16 voltage on all 3 stator wires - increasing exponentially with rpms - and one way continuity through a b and c in the rectifier - but no extra voltage from the battery at revs. New (as with old) battery goes flat after 2 days with head light fuse removed. All seems good - except I only get 0.03 ohms on the 3 stator wires. It should be closer to 1 ohm.
Wow very clear and concise. Great help. Now I have to get that manual. I have a '92 Vulcan 1500 any other charging tips? Thank you for the great videos.
Rick, it's hard to call me during day. Maybe if I simplify Are there other charge system types besides the 3 phase perm mag alternator you discuss on bikes that would cause greatly different test results for vac and continuity like I got?. Most likely charging alternatives on small newish korean bike, 150cc?. My stator has 8 coils, 3 wires coming off it. Surprised phone and pm's not too expensive for you in time. Again, thanks
That was a great video!! I have a 1983 Virago that I recently replaced both the stator and regulator. I receive a constant signal when I use the Ohm reading, However when the bike is on the battery does not show a charge any higer than it does when it's not running. Could you please offer some advice?
The best video I've seen yet on 'testing staters'. My question is, I have a gsxr k3 1000, will a bad stator stop my bike from starting? I hear a loud spark sound like a taser but louder when I press start ignition. My r/r is new, I swapped starter motor with a used one. I opened up my stator and it was mostly dark brown, I tested it and got a reading of 0.00 from each phase. I took the stator out of the bike and tried to start the bike but it made same sound, can you please help?
Hey Rick...lots of great info here...quick question...I just replaced my stator and regulator(admittedly not with one of yours) and everything was fine for about a week, and now my new stator has failed, after only about 150 miles... My new stator will be one of yours, but my question is, what can cause the stator to fail so quickly? Was it just a bad stator, or could there be something else wrong? And how do I trouble shoot it?
Heya Rick .. Confirmation needed, please. Checking ‘Stator Coils’. It’s obvious on first check, reading ohms acrost a/b - b/c - c/a that the connector to the R/R is un-plugged. The second test, AC voltage from the coils while bike running (16vac at idle increasing with rpm‘s), it’s difficult to tell for certain if this test is done with the connector to the R/R is plugged in or not. My thought is that you’ve simply flipped the un-plugged connector over to demonstrate checking with probes from the back of connector. Is my observation correct?? Merci in advance. Enjoy Peace
+Archie aka: Grumps You can test the voltage from the stator with it plugged in or not plugged in it doesnt matter. When checking resistance, you are checking the resistance of the stator ONLY thats why its unplugged. If it were plugged in you would be checking resistance of the whole circuit. So to answer your question, check resistance with the stator unplugged, check the voltage with the stator either plugged in or not.
Hello Suzuki volusia 2004 bike problem when you start the engine running normally, but after about an hour proceeds engine stop and after leaving for a while until cool works normally on the road and works well, but does not stop the engine if the stop in place
have a 1995 Honda xr250r, that has a baja design dual kit on it. The battery is not charging (no voltage increase while the bike is running). I suspect the DC rectifier/regulator that came with the kit is burned. However, I want to be 100% sure since electronics can be tricky 1) do you have such DC rectifier/regulator? 2) how can i test the stator of the bike while on it? I believe it has one phase stator, no? 3) do you have a stator with more output for that bike? thanks
If there is continuity when testing the wire to ground as in @2:05 is it always the alternator stater that is broken or can it be something else? Also thank you for an easy guide
The stator should be disconnected from the bike when you're doing the test, so if you have continuity between the AC output lines and DC-/ground then the stator is shorted. It can be a result of a stator failure itself (such as the insulator breaking down) or something external like a wire being pinched inside the cover. It needs to be removed from the bike to determine the exact nature of the fault.
I just did this test on my KTM Superduke. I have a different meter, but set to ohms (200) I got readings of .4 on all 3 phases. When I set the meter to AC volts (200) the reading at idle was 10-11. When I increased the rpm's the reading dropped down to 6-7. Does that mean my stator is toast?? Thanks for your reply. Paul
Brand new stator, brand new rectifier/ regulator, brand new battery, all tests confirm everything is working as should, however, it's still not charging my battery.. I'm lost as to what step now.
Hi Rick.i have a 93 cbr600f2 and when i test my stator like you showed it keeps reading between 005 and 019.it does not stay put but keeps changing.is this ok or is it faulty.THANX
In another video the stator AC voltage check was done grounding the black common terminal and touching each of the 3 yellow output stator wires for voltage with the red terminal. In this video one terminal of the voltmeter was to one of the yellow wires and the other terminal to another of the yellow wires. When I did this using the first method I got a reading of zero. Something seems wrong, which is the correct method? Thanks in advance.
I did some testing earlier, my bike is at a friends garage which is a 20min bus journey away. I tested each phase against the neg terminal of the battery. surely its only measuring the potential difference so this should work? I thought stators were AC just like a generator ? the reading from the phases to the neg batt term was 0V so I dismissed this as being a dead stator, found some wire in the cover too!.. (non moving part wtf)
Ricks... good morning... i have a problem... i check the 3 phases and everything ok but when i check one phase to battery ground the fluke check value.. -2.098. I susspect that i have something in ground... my motorcyvle its an cbr f4 1999. How i can fix it?.
Rick can a poor charging system cause a bike to not rev up high? My. 07' Suzuki GSXR. 750 does not rev past. 8k. This is my also my third battery I'm on. First two battery's were used but STILL. Bought a brand new one still have problem . Thiught All other parts have been replaced plugs, fuel pump, throttle bodies etc.
What if your bike is mid 70's and you dont have r/r combo...and only one wire from the stator is yellow..and one phase goes through the headlight switch..dont know where to begin..12v at start up but only goes to 12.5 when reving😢
I have a question I was hoping for help on. I hve 1976 Honda CB500T. Read the manual and all seems great, last thing was the points and ignition timing. I did a static test with a continuity light and found that in six rotations the light never shut off. That would tell me my spark plugs are firing constantly, and I cannot get it to idle for more than 4 seconds-and throttle kills it immediatly. Sanded the points to clean the contact surface and yes, they ARE closing.
I did this test, at idle 2 of the phases were at 25v and one was at 20v. when idle at 5000rpm 2 phases were at 75v and 1 was at 70v. It is above the factory recommendation for voltage but barley outside that 5% tolerance. I've been trying to figure out my charging system for a week now and i thought i concluded the rectifier was bad, but now i think they both are bad.. Please Help
Hi Rick i have a suzuki drz 400 sm k6 with no spark in ignition coil. Ive replaced the starter and cdi unit and still no spark. Ive removed the stater cover and rub a screwdriver and i get spark . can you please advise me
I have a 06 Honda cbr1000rr. This is the second time I have charged up the same new battery and every time it last a day and dies. There is no power going to the bike. If I put jumper cables on it will start right up and as soon as I take the jumper cables off it dies. Is it the stator or the rectifier or something else.
Hi Rick my bike battery says 12.4v . After I come back from a ride turn bike off. Go to start again IT'S dead bike wont turn over. I can push start though. The rectifier reads 520 ish none off them are incorrect.only 1 probe is slightly corroded still reads proper. So don't think it rr. HELP PLEASE
What is an intemitant charging issue? I'm assuming the alternator windings since the regulator diodes should just go once and that's it. I've replaced my reg and now after a month my new battery isn't charging again but the windings look good and test good. Any experience with this?
the stator of my cbr600f3 provides 13.0 volts at 1,500 rpm this correct? with 1,500 rpm, and carrying on with lighthouse, is below 13 volts in the battery thank you
i have 2 suzuki,s VL1500 and a C90 same bike just newer, if i check voltage at batt, on both bikes its pretty much the same 13.4 to 13.8 with rpm,s aprox 2000 most sites say it should charge about 14 or a little more,, had a bad rect, on the newer one and replaced with yours and now its back to 13.4 13.8 should it be 14 ?? thx
+Joseph Knoll You need to dig deeper, just checking if the resistance is consistent is like step 1. Check voltage at battery when idling and when RPM's above/at 5k. Check R/R diodes etc. You have a lot more steps to go before diagnosing.
Hi, any ideas on why when I turn my keys to on I hear a crackling noise from the stator? I opened it up and saw no burning but...could it be that the rectifier is gone and isnt controlling the current back to the stator from the battery?
Hi Rick.I'm working on a 1983 GL650 NON RUNNING bike I picked up cheap. I need to go into the engine to replace the starter drive springs and while I'm in there replace cam chain , water pump seal and if necessary the stator. Obviously I can't run the bike for voltage tests but the three yellow wires all ohm out at .6 ohms. In your opinion can I be sure that this stator is good? Or ??
Hy Rick, what if my service manual (burgman650) say the reference for resistance is between 0.1 and 1.0 ohms BUT I get reading between 1.5 to 2.0 ohms? Also what does it means to check for "check that the generator core is insulated"???? Thanks a lot!
Don't use the latter method to test an R1 stator (or really any when the alternative is better). Trying to put your multimeter electrodes in the back will give you a false read on some bikes. Just unplug the wire and use the front end of the plug where it plugs into the rectifier, not the rear as in this video.
Hey rick got a question i have a 08 r6s and when the bike is running im only getting a reading of 12.5 when the bike is running but i was told it should be reading 14volts
Hello!!! I have a 2018 harley davidson breakout M8. I burned the regulator. what I would like to ask you is: how much current must come out of the stator ??? measuring at minimum I give 20 V in alternating current, but accelerating it rises above 70/80 V. is this normal ???? Thanks in advance.
Good morning, We don't have a listing for this stator so I can't give a precise spec, but yes a three-phase PMA should have the unloaded AC voltage across the lines rise proportionate to the RPM. It should be even across all three output line combinations, and the lines should be OL to ground when conducting a resistance measurement. Note: this is a voltage measurement as opposed to current (amperes).
I am in desperate need of help. Can't afford a workshop right now, but a quick phone call could help me figure out my problem. Is there anyway I could contact you guys and get some help?
Aren't you meant to check the stator connection socket for the ground check and not the other socket that leads to the regulator/rectifier? I'm sure that first test was on the wrong socket.
I just put your stator and regulator on my Yamaha Star Venture.. It is charging but not at a acceptable voltage. Both are the Hi Output components. I am only putting 12.6v at idle and around 13.2v at higher rpm. When at idle it was climbing but at very slow increments and it did reach 13.0v... any thoughts? What should the high output stator be producing?
dear rick, i have a 2000 yamaha vstar 1100. it is overcharging. it actually blew two headlights. i bought a cheap stator last summer and it did great. even replaced rectifier but it was cheap as well but still good. i believe its overcharging because of the stator? when at idle, the battery is reading above 13. when revving up, it can reach past 17. i know thats not good. can you help?
+chris gipson The stator won't cause an overcharge; it's the regulator's job to control the output voltage. Thus, the one you have, is apparently defective.
Thank you. I figured that out after i tested the rectifier. It was bad. Changed it, now its undercharging and burnt wires from the stator which now i assume, the stator is actually bad as well
hello Rick , please i need advise , working on my Honda Varadero 1000 here in Cancun Mexico, I check the static reading between A,B,C phases and i have 1.7 homs in all Mi reading on the dynamic test is 22 volts AC at idle and 70 volts AC at 5000 RPM. if i reach 6000 rpm I have 100 volts AC Is this normal? Thanks alot Rick
Yes this sounds correct, as long you don't have continuity to ground. The Vac-RPM correlation should be roughly linear as you rev so it sounds like your AC output numbers are good, assuming that they're equal on all three phases.
Rick, I have an '83 Yamaha Seca 750- I biught a new stator today cause my old one is black. The bike, when it warms up enough (usually after 15-20 mi.) starts running rough (new spark plugs- old ones were dry and fine). If it sits/ cools off, it starts right up and runs great. Anyway, my old stator did not have the 3 prong plug, it was just hooked up with 3 individual connectors. My new stator I bought has the plug. All 3 wires from both stators are solid white,. so I want to know if it matters which wires go where??? I traced where the 3 go. 2 go to the battery area through a plug with other wires, the 3rd goes to another splice (goes somewhere else- for spark plug coils maybe???). Does it matter how i wire the 3 in? It seems like it doesn't matter since they're all white going into the plug. Thanks!
HitaDrum19 All three wires should go the the reg/rec. If you look at the leads coming out of the R/R, there should be three corresponding wires of same colour (be they white, yellow etc). The three leads coming from the stator coil connect to the three of same coloured leads going into the R/R.
Dear Rik, I have ( what I believe to be chronic ) issue on a DL1000 year 2008. The voltage at idle is 13.3 but drops downward when throttled up. From what I have observed on all other vehicles, the dcv stays static or climbs. is this normal on some vehicles ??
The battery voltage should not be going down when revved. This could be the result of a bad battery, bad wiring (bad ground connection in particular), or bad regulator. It is also possible to be a stator problem but this particular issue is less likely than the others I listed with your described problem.
Hello Rick,I just bought a 2000 Yamaha r1 which has a charging problem..The problem that I am having is the stator test good and puts out the correct A/C volts but I have gone through 3 rectifiers in 3 weeks. When I first install new rectifier it seems to last 3 - 4 days... I see that the previous owner had added a LED head light, Not sure if this would affect it or not.. What would cause the bike to burn through rectifiers like that...Any help is appreciated...Thanks,Ant....
got a 2002 did the same thing it's voltage spikes from. the stator if. you get more then 36volts at 5000 rpm stator is burning rectfier up my stator tested fine until. I tested it. for ground and sure enough was shorting to ground
I have a 02 zx12 and at idle it charges at 14.6 and as I rise the rpm up the voltage drops down to 13.2or more would that be the regulator or the stator?
I just got 1 of your stators from my local Yamaha dealer and it's junk...passes the continuity test but fails voltage output test...2 legs read 11.2 volts at idle and the other leg reads 2.5 volts at idle...tell me what my issue is...new regulator/rectifier from Yamaha and new starter solenoid...
If one of our parts is not performing correctly you can contact us to send it on a warranty claim and we can open an RA for you. Please make sure the stator is being tested correctly; it must be disconnected from the vehicle and measured via an AC voltage test between the three line output combinations. If this is being done and the numbers are out of balance please contact us at 1-800-521-0277 or info@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com to set up an RA so it can come in for testing. We will dyno it here and replace if the failure mode is confirmed.
@@RicksElectrics that's how I tested it and I'm getting 11 volts on 2 of the legs and 2.5 volts on 1 leg...bought it through the local Yamaha dealer and now I've gotta take it off and wait for them to send it back to you to be tested...plus they charged me $50 more than what I could've bought it directly from you for...no biggie but now my bike is gonna be down for however long that takes or I have to buy another 1 and wait to be refunded...
@@RicksElectrics Hello, (Honda cbr 1000rr 2005) i have 12.1 AC Volts coming out of Stator - 3 wires, (bike is on, on idle) all wires are giving the same reading (~12v). Stator looks fine, no burned parts. No ground, and 0.3 Ohms. So only output voltage reads low. Can stator look good and still be faulty? The voltage on the battery goes up until 4000rpm then drops significalntly from 13.5V to 12.5V or so, and than continiues to drop lower and lower, every time i rev the bike same thing happens. Thank You.
