Thank you so much for this. I recently bought a 85' and I was feeling pretty overwhelmed with it. I was ready to pass it on to the next person. Then I found your videos. Now I see me and this little guy having a bright future together, thank you.
This is so awesome...I had come to terms with having to de vac my 87 crx and use a weber replacement..but I had way given up on using the stock carb. Thanks a million for going to the trouble of making thes videos...
Bro cool video i have a crx i build her with weber 32/36 head shave 30 over bore and polish 272 delta cam 10 pounds flywheel and gd clutch i unplugged the original gas pump and put a gd race gd pump close to the tank and a gas regulator and believe me she fly sound tuff and look tuff old school style but her sound with a free flow exhaust system and her looks made people come to me all the time but man she run fast gd on gas easy to maintenance vtec and turbo nd a lot to get next to me believe is like running a go kart on steroids she is dangerous to fast in highways streets cities is a lots of fun for around 500 dollars set up well my crx is around 1600 pounds but honda motors love higher rpm like sp bike and really that what i have she rumble to 72 rpm in not time and hold on she fly i can say the 272 delta regrind cam and the 32/36 Weber carb is a combo that needs to be respected on the streets i have mustang Camaros corvettes muscle cars and hondas etc looking at my break light because she really pull hard and fly i think the best combo for the streets on a crx the rest are to much weight and to much power to really enjoy the civic old school kp the gd job
Great videos man! I enjoyed watching you cleaning out that cluster F out from the hood of that CRX. The finished product looks great, you can actually see the engine! I can't wait to do it to mine. A question that I have is the box on the firewall passenger side that you unplugged 2 electrical plugs from. Is there anything special that should be done with those?
hey man! i love the video all 4 parts of it! this has been the best way to get ANY information on my 1987 honda civic! I'd actually love to get ahold of you and see if you know some stuff about a weber carb conversion, and anything I'd need to know before getting started. It's my daily driver and I really don't want to mess anything in the process! If you happen to read this comment shoot me a message or respond to this comment! I love your content so far and i really would love any help!
Great vid man! Thanks for all your knowledge and help. Do you think you can make a devac video for the 2gen prelude 1.8 dual carb? Please and thanks in advance 🤟
@ 15:00 you pull off the tube that goes into what u say is something to do with emissions mumbo-jumbo. Where does that get hooked back up to? Or should I just cap it off?
I take it that this car will remain in a state that does no smog testing. We got 30-31 years out of wife's 1984 DX HCH 1.5 with 5-speed. I have different items from the car stored. Let me know where you are located and I will get back to you if we live close enough to make a deal.
Is this the 1.5 l? If not is it the same process for one? I have a 1986 sedan with the 1.5 that wont idle and trying to see if this is why not. Do you know where I could find more info about the carburetor?
I have a 87 carburated 1.3, it was working fine i messed with the fast idle and stopped working 2 days later. Haven't de'vaced. Im getting spark, fuel is going in the carb tank, what could it be thanks!
The plugs could be washed out. My need to replace those. Makes sure the float level is good. To high of a float level can cause the car to flood the engine.
I was just wondering...during the video you said" removing most of the vacuum line, you wouldn't pass emissions/smog". Is that just for the visible inspection or will an engine light come on after removing all tubing ? What's makes it not pass emissions? I have the same car and I need to replace the carburetor, I believe. So I was tempted to do the vacuum delete your showing. I'd appreciate any help or suggestions.
your right about calif emmission, it forced me to get it running perfect, my 1985 crx hf. high fuel as you know. Many attempts on hwy going 60 mph , I got well over 60 mpg. 5th gear , that special small a barrel carburator, super light car weight, did it. I eventually rebuilt the motor myself. Tip: never send your Rare HF carburater to a rebuilder NEVER !! , they sent me back a regular already rebuilt replacement , then said they dont have my carburator anymore. Thieves, liars. You label your carb, saying return my carb only. Then they sell your carb on ebay for 500$, no joke. These rebuilders are in El Monte CA You open these so called rebuilds, they bend diapram shafts, and squeeze gaskets that dont fit into carb, or no new parts at all. Wrong carb on a sensitive HF model leaves you with a reg carb dumping too much fuel into intake, loads of problems. This sent me down the road with years of struggles until I finally got the right carb. You see the real challenge was to get it to run smooth as silk with everything stock as it was in 1985, thats the real fun.
I got a 87 civic all stock all original 91k no dents no rust original everything even the cig lighter. I have have the reciepts when bought in the dealer, warranty book, manual, chilltons book, etc... Should I do this to my car?
If everything is works as it should I would just leave it alone until you either decide you want to swap to like a weber carburetor or swap the engine entirely do something modern.
Since you have a lot of experience with these cars, i was wondering if you could help me with an issue with the idle on an 86 wagon. The idle Fluctuates quite a bit, and often just dies. However, sometimes its fairly normal with a little bit of wobble. Could this be a common issue with the vacuum control box? Or is it just a common vacuum leak / poor fuel delivery system. The issue kind of just started overnight too.
Naitrio I would consider it more of a common vacuum leak issue/fuel delivery issue. Try and spray some carburetor cleaner and on the vacuum lines and see if the idle changes which would indicate a vacuum leak. Sometimes the rubber carburetor base plates cracks and can cause issues like this as well
I live in oregon, and I have a 86 hatch and I was wondering how much would it cost for some help to do what you just did to that wagon. I'm a novice to stuff like this and I don't have many people and or space for some help.
Ok. So I think possibly the last question I might have is..... Now what do I do with all of the electrical connections that are just left after unplugging the few? Just leave em? Or....?
I have a 86 civic (carbureted) original engine 160k miles. Looking at De'vacing it. Any tips on water pump replacement? It started leaking and I can't find anything on it
Does this information pertain to late 80s Accords too? I have an 87 Accord Hatchback DX. It has been difficult to start if it has been sitting. Have to pump the pedal quite a few times before it will run but after warm no problem except for a little hesitation when accelerating. Anyway yesterday it was fine until I noticed it began idling about 2500. Hit the pedal and the idle would drop but then go high again. Pulled off the road and turned off the engine but then it wouldn't start again. After about 10 min it would start but did the same after driving a short distance. I think the carb needs rebuilt.
This information does pertain to the 80sa ccords as well. The only real difference is the EGR stuff has a little bit different set up but the carburetor is basically the same thing.
@@junkyardboiz2896 thanks for answering bro. I want to know if it is possible to adjust the ignition timings without a light, like from the sound of engine, vibrations or rpm. Second it would be of great help if you tell whats the process of attaining a proper air fuel mixture in civic 1986. Please tell me how can i send you images of my carburetor and distributer? Thanks in advance brother.
Has anyone passed emissions with this modification? Over here in good ole Utah emissions are required all the way back to 1967. Just hoping to know if it will pass before I move forward with it.
redoing the fuel system on my 1984 1500 s hatchback and im encountering some issues with evap back on the mechanical fuel pump. im certain i dont have the lines crossed by the tank but when i crank no fuel even passes the pump. there are no leaks and the two way valve and charcoal canister is running the way that it should. i know it is not blocked off at the carb as well because i have the line disconnected and running to a catch bottle. the fuel pumps is new as well as all fuel components and its a real headache trying to figure out purges and evap. any info is helpful thank you!!
@@junkyardboiz2896 yeah brand new front and back, i realized the filter is supposed to go after the pump in line to the carb so i will switch that and retry but i doubt thats enough resistance to have screwed stuff up
Hey did you ever do a halfshaft delete? I have a 87 Honda civic 4wd wagon. Tried the devac and the carb was shit. So I did a y8 swap and my problem is the halfshaft bolts to the block and with the y8 I can't bolt the halfshaft to the block. Do you of a axle that full size 34.75 with 27inner spline and 26 outer spline that would work that would delete the half shaft?
I cannot say for sure since I have never came across one of these they were never offered in the states but I would imagine it would be pretty similar.
I know this might be dead but if anyone has info over this series working on an 84 accord that would be awesome thank you. N if it’s the same for capping off the carb.
Well if you are looking for stock parts rockauto.com has the most parts available. cheddasauto.com/ and www.heeltoeauto.com/ are the best places to find performance parts.
Hi mate. Can you please help me you would be a life saver. I have a civic ef 1988, d15b4 1.5L dual carb. Issue is: morning starts takes a min or so as low idle i have to press gas for abt 2 minutes or it just turns off, after it warms up its fine. HOWEVER, even when warm - turning AC ON, my idle drops to around 150rpm. Turning other electric headlight, when cooling fan coming on drops to about 400rpm. Can you please advise, being a dual carb - i cant even find the damn air control valve
Unfortunately we do not have the dual carb d15 here in the states. So I don’t have any experience with them. I would recommend seeing if you can find a factory service manual online and that might help you find things or give suggestions on how to fix issues. Sorry I cannot be of more help.
@@junkyardboiz2896 I'm looking for anybody that's willing to help with this project it's a love project I had to go rescue my dog from the desert over four thousand mile trip
All this is well and good but what about passing the emissions test? In my state, (NV), only vehicles built before 1963 are exempt. Removing all this crap is nice but if you can't get through the test then what?
Doing this you run the risk of not being able to pass. You have a few other options if you are having issues you could go ahead and replace every last vacuum hose and hope the solenoids in the black boxes are still good. The Weber 32/36 is a very good Upgrade but I don’t believe it is emissions legal in a lot of states.
Set the fuel level in the sight glass around 1/2 half way. You have to turn the float level screw 1/16 turn at a time and slight rev the engine to stop fuel from coming out the screw.
My float adjust screw leaked so I put 100% silicon caulk on the threads. I thought maybe the gas would dissolve the silicone but it hasn't - and it doesn't leak.
@@junkyardboiz2896 Ok, my Temp gauge was stuck on cold right so I popped the hood and saw that the Sending gauge sensor was disconnected. I reconnected it and the temp gauge shot all the way up to Hot. My car isn't overheating so could it be a short somewhere? Or is it just a bad Sensor that needs to be replaced
@@junkyardboiz2896 when i did a weber swap on my old wagon, i hooked up the electric choke directly to the old choke wire and it seemed to work so i figure there has to be an easy way but i have not looked at everything in the service manual for it yet. Thought the ac would be easy but it just has so many components in those vacc black boxes it uses looking at the FSM. appreciate your videos man !
@@junkyardboiz2896 i got it all mounted up and i got no vacuum leaks or anything so thats awesome i got some issues adjusting fuel but got it to run smooth and idle, until i gave it a couple revs to see if it will bug out but no it goes up smooth but after letting it sit on idle by it self for a few minutes i came back give it some gas again and the throttle butterfly stays stock, what you recommend? Should i rebuild it or buy the weber kit? Bc i am tired of messing also with the vacuum lines and all that.
Ed 2ZZ VVTL-I & Kseries Doing the Weber conversion is by far the best thing to do. Trying to rebuild the stock carburetors can be tricky. The Weber is more user-friendly for somebody that doesn’t know a lot about carburetors especially Honda carburetors.
@@junkyardboiz2896 got you thanks, i am a mechanic but this little thing we bought it on the action to keep it has gave us some issues finding parts since most parts arent in market any more and its worth fixing since its a 1 owner, no rust what so ever. And Thanks again keep the good work man i appreciate it not too many people have the time to share things like this out here 👍.
