Nice video. My issue is, randomly the fuel pump won't run. I hit the tank from under the seat and got it to start, so I figured the pump was going bad. However, the next 6 times it happened, hitting the tank did nothing. Randomly it would work regardless of what I did. I found the fuel pump relay before finding this video.. if I just move the relay around, it will allow me to start the car 5 out of 5 times. So at this point not sure if its a wiring issue or relay is going bad. Seeing your test wire will help me a ton. Let's see if I can get the test wire to do the same, if not, replacing the relay I will do! Thanks!
Nice and simple video with details. When the weather turned cold, I can "hear" that the priming is intermittent on my 92 DX. Now, to attack that relay! Thanks!
On my 1993 Civic del sol SI, this is exactly the same, the same cluster of wires with the same colors. It seems this is a common point of failure of these cars. If a jump wire gets the fuel pump to kick on, you've probably narrowed down your problem to that relay. You can remove that relay and bake it at 380-390F for about 8-9 minutes on top rack in oven on some folded up tin foil (that can get the solder points to rejoin and temporarily make contact again) let it cool, reinstall. It worked for me for almost a year, until it failed again, at that point I just replaced the relay.
Trying it now on my 96 civic but nothing is hapening. Does this mean my fuel pump is dead? Followed every step you mentioned. Except my wiring harness for the main relay has different color arrangements. The live wire is black and white, and theres 3 yellow and green wires from the relay harness.
Can wiring this connector from the battery line to the pump be a temporary fix to operate the car or will the engine not get the right amount of fuel and operate not optimally or waste fuel?
In jumping the connector, you are making the connection the relay normally does. But, in unplugging the relay, you also disconnect computer power. See below. Thus, you can operate the car. However, this also bypasses all safety control of the fuel pump. In case of an accident, the fuel pump would continue to run even if the engine is turned off. So, I would only recommend doing this to get the vehicle moved to where you will be diagnosing and repairing it. The fuel pressure is controlled by a mechanical pressure regulator in the intake manifold area. If that is bad, or the fuel filter is clogged, or the pump itself has weak or low output, the vehicle still may not run when you jump the relay. Note that there is another wire that is energized by the relay that also is turned on which goes into the computer. There is a yellow and white wire and a yellow and black wire that will also need to be jumped to start the car since the relay would be unplugged.
@@johnedwards7466 So when you stuck your tester in the wiring (my wires are the same color as yours for these two) one is continuously live for the battery line, but shouldn't the other one be live also when you turn the key to the on position for at least a few seconds as the fuel pump should be triggered to prime? This one isn't live for me, even when turning the key...
In regards to your question, the wire going to the fuel pump has no voltage. It only gets voltage when you jump it. The computer normally runs the pump, via the relay, for a couple seconds with key on.
Aaron Weise did u check the under hood fuses? Also, check wiring schematic either online or at the library. There is a power distribution fuse box under the hood. This has the bigger fuses and relays in it. It is important to look up the wiring schematic. I can't stress this enough.
