Awesome video Keith. Had the same problem on a customers vehicle. But what it was doing the cluster was flickering. Previous shop replaced the pcm with no luck luckily I found a wire that was grounding out on the block. Always good to find those
I like this format. It keeps the video moving right along. Boom! Red and white wire. It's right there in front of us. Awesome. You'd have no problem getting a cameraman.
i like when you diagnose first and are then kind enough to share the info with us. Its quicker and to the point! Thanks for all you share. Enjoy North Carolina
Thanks for taking the time to make this. This video really hammers home the Point of load testing powers and grounds before calling a module and calling in the heavy hitter a.k.a. Keith.
Keith thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge on the actual computers and what to look for. Have a safe trip enjoy Artie 👍
This is great. Good diagnostics. I love that you do the videos afterward. I can't stand watching a how to video with 30 minutes of "nope that wasn't it". You are right to the point, show the steps taken, and help others understand what to do. Well done.
Love the format Keith and this is the info I'm talking about no where in Mitchell or the oe flow chart does it state that no bus could be a missing module they have you focus on a shorted or open bus you give so much info in small bits. I love it lean something new all the time with your videos. They say people who think they are great brag on how great they are .the people who are great get told they are great . your great 😀😀 I can't imagine a better person to learn from
Love it, Keith - you just do what you gotta do - whatever works for you, works for us! As far as I'm concerned, anything you put out is GOLD - no complaints here. I ALWAYS learn something from your videos, every time, whether it's a faster way to troubleshoot, or where to start for a certain issue. I think 99.9% of your viewers understand you've gotta pay the bills first, and everything else comes second. I, for one, (and again I think I speak for 99.9% of your combined subscribers and viewers) REALLY APPRECIATE the effort you put into making these videos! I honestly have no idea how you do it. I have no children, I have no commute since my shop is on my property, and I do 1/100th the amount of work you do, and I have NEVER shot a video, and I STILL feel overwhelmed alot of the time!! If I'm in bed by midnight, I'm not moving until 8am! Hats off to you, brother - God's given you a gift! Not only that, but you're doing His will through all the people you help out here. 😎 If I had HALF your energy, I'd be alot better off financially, that much I know! But, the knowledge I gain watching your vids makes up for my ... slackage ... if that's a word ... 😁
I know this is a 2 year old video and I'm just commenting now but hopefully this will help people same as she was your video mine's an O2 Durango SLT plus 4.7 with the three plug computer meaning the earlier O2 durangos at a separate transmission control module where the newer ones are four plugs on the PCM. Anyway followed your video to a t. Pulled my crankshaft position sensor camshaft position sensor throttle body sensor anything that might throw a no bus code symptoms are the exact same as your video figured while I was in there my trucks rolling at 190,000 miles when I got the no bus code diagnosed it still receiving the 5 volt signal to all the sensors mentioned above well under the truck checked all the grounds make sure the thing was snugged up went over to the fuse box under the hood near the battery if others have stated sometimes you get some bare wires under there check that and all was okay. Same deal pops and covers under the steering wheel made sure all the ignition wires are okay the grounds by the timing control unit on the driver side kick panel that controls your lights and other interior things but after checking everything out going back to the PCM under the hood checking for proper voltage the way you did and the five volt out from the PCM both checked out fine. So if I high dollar pulse tools and knowing all the sensors were checked and changed out decided to bite the bullet got a remanufactured PCM from a company online. Pulled the three screws holding the computer popped in the new remanufactured PCM and the no bus code went away my mileage came back up my overhead consoled with compass and other features turned on and trucks running perfect. So again has this video is pointed out to help people if your sensors aren't grounded out and you have your 5 volt signals the PCM can still be bad. I can't fault the truck it's almost 20 years old with 200,000 miles so 130 bucks for remanufactured computer to keep me on the road was well worth it. I've seen a lot of videos where people say they changed the computer and they still have a no bus code Again that may be the case if you have a direct short on one of your sensors or a gouge in your wiring harness grounding out the computer but again in my case everything grounded out fine had proper 5 volt signals coming from the PCM Just no pulse running from the PCM to the dash and obt2 port so the truck couldn't communicate. PCM swap problem solved.
I hope someday I can be as good as you ! I just started watching you and already learned some things here and there but as far as i can tell you are a diagnostic god put frankly
No sir. I just follow basic principles and keep the same diagnostic process regardless of how daunting the task at hand is . That's what fixes cars. A solid foundation. Look for training on our website www.trainedbytechs.com
The diag on something like this is what I get bogged in thanks for showing the thought processes staying focused on the find and not getting distracted on the maybe
I’m not gonna lie,I do like the power probe. I haven’t used it much since I got it,but it was helpful as the ground for my test light under a rusty car. I’ve also used it to provide power and ground. It does have its uses! However,I love my Harbor Freight test light! It only needed some sandpaper to clear the rust off the spring inside it and I put a hole in it from shorting something out,but other than that it still rocks! 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Datum this video saved our company alot of money besides a new fuel pump hahaha but sure enough the red/white wire was totally gone. Thanks for the video and the information
Man that was extremely helpful going to check that tomorrow considering no dealers have a computer. I have the no bus message and my engine light has gone out.
I like going back to these a second and third time and picking up on little bits of information and technique I either missed or glossed over the first time.
Keith , I'd be your cameraman ...for free! but I live on the other coast...thanks again for making really good videos , I think we all know what a pain it must be to record and stage and ..on and on ...So again thanks.
i'd volunteer to do the camera but not on the island or any other part of nyc or jersey for that matter you can have it. its not a bus short its the short bus and we are all riding it thanx for being the driver
Its either the engine computer or something connected to it. The computer is on the left side of the engine bay. The other problem i had was the park sensor, the one attached to the trans. Replace computer and that sensor and fixed 100%. 2002 3.9 Dakato 2wd.
Simple, if it’s a dodge you have a short. This problem piped up out of nowhere. Mines was the dome light. When you spin the knob to turn your dome lights on and you hear that click coming from the glove box something back there in mines has a short. Didn’t even notice my dome lights didn’t come on when opening the door. That click would not stop coming from the glove box and the chime for the door. I knew it was a short because anytime i turn something on using power , cigarette lighter, head lights, it stop and my gauges came back and check engine light went off. I didn’t tear the dash apart to get to that module or wire that’s shorted on the side of the glove box, just gave the glove box a couple wacks , dome lights came back , ticking/chime stop, ac/heat came back, check engine light went , no bus message disappeared as so as the airbag light. I’m going to tear the dash off to see exactly what is shorted back there but just thought I’ll give my 2 cents as I was tearing my hair out because I was doing so brake work and took a couple fuses out the fuse box and thought I fried something. Simple short as usual with dodge. Pain in the ass chasing them
You are right about those factory diagrams being better. I haven't seen any of the newer ones, but the old Chrysler diagrams and manuals are perfect. Especially the 8W section for wiring diagrams, etc. They have labeled pinouts for every connector. The wiring diagram layouts are perfect (I actually like them better than Mitchell diagrams.) And they have illustrations showing where every module, ground, connector, and splice is located. I wish Chrysler made manuals for everything. The factory Ford service info is crap.
Thank you very good information as few on RU-vid I do the same. Passion is what moves me to help people! I owe you one. When you like it, come to your workshop here. either for your bottle of tequila Cazadores. Here south of Texas. 100% Mexican
Ever since I have heard your reason behind the issue with using the PP and having experienced funky readings from it myself I only use it to provide power and a ground when i'm doing checks with multi meter inside or under the car. Also Keith wanna know if you have known this or heard about this on chevys, with the KOEO if the airbag light flashes 7 or 8 times then you DO NOT have a network fault. I was told this at a recent Network class i went to.
This is a great video and you obviously know what you are doing. Since the people who are watching it probably don't know what they are doing would you please remake it when you are not in a hurry to go to N.C. ? That way you could show where you are probing the PCM (and not show the air filter!) Also what brand of wiring diagrams are you using? They seem easy to follow. Again, I don't want to seem like a ranter. I was able to get some information but if you remake it slower your fans would really like it. I personally bolted from N.C. for the hurricane at about that time. Luckily my Jeep didn't start its problems before I got back to Illinois. Thanks for posting.
@3:15...I would like to lodge a complaint! 😂😂😂 Again, my hat's off to your detailed and comprehensive knowledge of these various systems. I do have a question; say you were called to program a module and ran into a "no comm" issue like this, do you stop and ammend the service call charge(s)? Thanks for taking the time to recreate and share your craft! -100
If you are using your cell phone I just bought a head band for my iPhone X...haven't used it yet...you should try that !!...I'd be your camera guy in a heartbeat but I'm still working...I'm across the Raritan Bay from you...I just subscribed to your channel the other day...I saw you on PHAD a few times...you're SHARP...watched all PHAD,SMA, and Scanner Danner...need a new outlook on diagnostics...and videos I haven't see a hundred times each..LOL !!
Great video as usual , Keith just queries if i had hit the power button on my power probe on that power supply wire to the pcm would that have made for a quicker than quick pinpoint test or just one more barbecuedd pcm .
Good video! I like this format a little bit better. 2 questions your last video what was the fix? The second question how much or what is the range per vehicle do you charge?
The fix is an exhaust leak on one bank and a failed upstream o2 sensor on the other. Follow the Facebook page for pictures 😁. And charges vary , programming vs diagnostic and type of vehicle and information necessary sometimes cost extra.
Question at the beginning testing pin 22 I belive .when checking it no power ifi apply power it starts , where dose that pin get its power i can't find information
Power probe 4 feed mode setting test is great for finding voltage drops (there is no button push during this test) the circuitry in the PP4 loads the voltage just like a test light. No feed back from beep sound or the red led ( pos) or green (gnd) led lights will let you know if there is a voltage drop. The PP4 company does a horrible job at instructions for this unit. It took me a while to learn to use it correctly.
