Had the same problem all thru last winter the truck sat while I tried to suss out the problem. From all my reading I finally decided it must be a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor. The access to that distributor and the sensor behind it had me inventing all kinds of new cuss-words! Took it over to the mechanic ( towed ), and he tackled the repair as it was just too cold for me. Afterward he asked if I had played around with the Distributor at all....well, yes, I had put in a new rotor and installed new wires... he smirked and said it appeared I hadn't re-installed the Distributor Cap squarely onto the base ( roundly!)...still smirking, and $300 richer, he told me to stop playing around on the innards, and bring my problems to him... So $100 Tow Job, another $120 for the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and the Mechanics $280 charge for the install and work-up... and now I wonder if my screwy Distr Cap install, crushed a wire as in your situation? Ah well... still Livin' and Learnin'......Great video ..glad it worked out for You!
I’m glad to find this video, I’m not a mechanic by trade but I love working on my cars and my 01” Ram 1500 has the same issues and I got frustrated until now, you my friend gave me hope. I will do just that, thumbs up on your patience. Thanks a lot!!
I was about to say something similar Tomas. I've been working on my wife's 2003 Dakota 4.7, which we bought from a private party back around 2007 with NO PROBLEMS, and just when I think I fixed it the truck laughs at me. So I admire your patience.
Wow I’m so stoked to have found this. I’ve watched so many videos and tried everything as my truck is 98 Ram doing exactly same symptoms cranks and no ignition -fuel pump & gauges dead 💀 Going to pull distributer coil wire 1st thing in the morning. I wish I had 1/2 the patience you have but I didn’t give up at least 😆
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, but miss having a van, and was thinking of a Ram Van 1500, but hear a lot of horror stories about Dodge. This video is sure educational! Thank you Allen.
Great video brother I really appreciate it exact same issue that I'm having currently I have a 98 4x4 as well crew cab Laramie and it had exact same issue crank no start no spark no fuel no gauges supposedly the guy I bought it from said that he did a "toon up" to it which was very poor toon up because all the spark plugs were very different from each other not even the same brand and the spark plug wires were old and crusty and dry rotted! I swapped the cap on it but I did not check for that wire but I'm going to check for it now thank you for your detailed information
I so have this problem right now. I actually bought the distributor pick up and they crank position sensor. But im gonna swap the d. pick up tmrw and see what happens. Nice thorough vid! Thanks!
Man nice work and I’m glad you did this video because I’ve got the same problem but I’ve just rebuilt my motor and now I have absolutely no spark new distributor and wires and coil and I put the cap on and everything else but it’s got to be around the same area that is causing my problems so I’m very very thankful for this video man thank you
Great job , I'm working on a 1998 sebring convertible. No start condition, I have ignition fire, but no fuel pressure. The new pump runs when ignition is switched on, runs for a couple seconds, but does not supply pressure when in start or run position. It will start and run with starting fluid. So I have to track down the short, asd is possible. Fun, fun, thanks for posting this, it gives me hope I can find the problem. The car will actually start and run occasionally, so in know it's fixable. 👍👍🏁🏁
Good God man !!! This video sums up all you need to know about the dodge ram 1500s' . Power steering didn't work , it was my water pump. Transmission didn't shift into high, it was my throttle sensor. Heat gauge didn't work, it was my coolant sensor. Now if the truck dont start , it get out and kick the tire because with a dodge 1500 ... you never know !
Great troubleshooting Allen,by the way if the truck runs but the gauges don't work,try resetting the trip odometer. Found that one on a forum a week after I bought my 98.Cheers ,all the best.Thanks for the vid.
Alan, my name is Richard I recently put in a 360 CID eng in my 98 Durango what I'm about to tell you is may sound screwy as all get out but that part you replaced on the distributor does t feed your spark to the Distributor it completes the circuitry to your fuel injector timing on relation to the ignition spark and timing. And with that there is a plate on the back of the engine that the torque converter attaches to. That plate has a lip on the outer rim that has 8 evenly spaced cut out holes with a senior attached to the back toward the passenger side of the engine. This is what ignites your spark plugs from the coil. This is the screwiest systm but it work. For it to all work right it has to be perfectly timed, no varieties. It's the screwiest system I'd ever seen but just so you know Chrysler wasn't the only company to use this design.
i Had a computer failure this summer that cost me 1 month of work, all of my summer profits from mowing lawns. if you dont hear the fuel pump prime you should not crank the engine and burn up your starter and battery, the instrument panel does need to be active and the needles have to return to their previous position for the vehicle to start. I was getting randam stalls while driving on the highway, streets, boulevards, pulling my trailer with all my gear....highly dangerous. after disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, the vehicle would arbitrarily start, I dont know why that was, the wait times between battery disconect and successful ignition were longer as the problem got worse and I guessed that the computer was bad, and had a new engine computer programmed and delivered, and it has worked. had it been the distributor cap, I would have never gotten to that, glad you went through your steps and detailed your thinking. 2nd gen dodges are good trucks that make good power and are relatively easy to work on compared to everything else out there.
Good job finding your issue. I am so happy you were able to get your truck back on the road. Dodges are great trucks but just like anything there are issues that suprise everyone. Happy holidays!
99 24v cummins. Didnt run for 2 weeks after I nearly chopped my leg off. I get around to running it. Dead batteries. Replace those. Crank no start. Replaced the fuse that you were talking about (check both under hood and kick panel) started right up
Thanks. Had same problem. The book calls the part a cam sensor but the parts store call it a coil so that was frustrating going back an forth to the store. I disconnected every sensor one by one until I found the one that was disconnected that made the problem go away. That's the bad sensor which happens to be the coil.😊
Yes indeed bro I'm the same problem. I'm going to check it out and see if that's what is causing me the same problem. Big 👍👍👍 and new subscriber to the channel my friend.
That pick up is the van position sensor pick up, so that makes sense, mine the pump into come on until to crank it, hen it makes fuel pressure, runs fine otherwise tho
Awesome video ! I have a 2001 dodge ram .. and I'm thinking the fuel pump is clogged .. but I'm just watching vids for all possible problems that it could be. My gauges work , my truck turns over . But no start. We shall see what the problem is in due time.
I have a 98 1500/5.9 and if you think trash is in the fuel line just unclip it from the throttlebody and straight wire your fuse box under the hood, where the fuel pump controller is with a short piece of wire, is the two horizontal lines at the bottom turn ignition on it’ll start pumping fuel it’ll get rid of the trash and hook it back up. Oh yeah, do you need something to catch the fuel? That’s what I did. It works great.
Congrats on finding the problem and fixing it. We had same problem, crank but no fire. CAB garage moved the fuel relay outside fuse box. Over $850.00 later we get truck back but nothing in rear and center console works. I will troubleshoot in tomorrow when I have light outside. I am excellent troubleshooter in wiring and fuses. SO tomorrow I will look at fuses for inside the cab and modules and ASD too. I have another question for the group does anyone know how to shut off tire pressure system? We don't use those and its a pain when you start the truck. Thanks
I’m having no start condition on my 1995 Dodge Ram 1500. I will check the distributor cap and rotor and the wiring inside the distributor thanks for your help.
I'll be damned the pick up coil, I'm going to go give that a whirl right now I'll let you know what happens, thank you I was even thinking pickle coil over from the get-go and I just never even went to it but I want to go to it right now and see thanks a lot brother! :-)
I was actually very surprised to find that it was tied into the asd system. I hope it is the fix for you as well so you can get your rig back on the road.
Pick-Up Coil/Also..Take Black Electrical Tape & Wrap Those Wires To TPS Sensor..Rain Water Will Cause Them To Go Out...I Replaced 5 In Two Years Before I Learned About This Know Problem..Wrap The Last One Rain No Longer And Issue. When TPS About To Go Out..Truck Will Idle Really High & Idle Back Down & Start Cutting Off At Red Lights Or When Making A Right Turn..Sometime You Want Even Make It Out The Drive Way Before It Cuts Off...
Hey Leroy! That same thing happened to my wife's Dakota. I replaced the TPS and it ran fine for a year or so. Then it began stalling whenever giving too much acceleration. Got it home and throttle was up and down then stumble and stall. My wife told me that she drove it through the car wash. I had suspicions that the electric got wet. So this time I replaced the wire "harness" that snaps onto the TPS. It drove ok for a day or two and back to stalling. At this point I'm thinking PCM/ECM is bad or the throttle body is dirty and getting stuck open/closed in turn tricking the PCM and so forth lol. But any tips or suggestions are much appreciated.
@@Roller76 Replacing The Wire Harness Is A Good Move..But You're Going To Have To Replace That Sensor..May As Well Replace Your Idle Air Control Sensor As Well..But That's Up To You...👍RU-vid University Helped Me As Well..But Not Before I Had Replaced A Fuel Pump..Crank Sensor & Pickup Coil😳
ecu fault, purple and white wire to cell phone charger 5v 1 amp to live idle control ,preferrably to a switch. Replace ECU. probably in need of reflow (solder joints). truck will start with power to 5v rail.
RE: Jtec pulled this explanation from another site....The JTEC controller was in Chrysler products from 1996 to 2004. It controlled the 3.7L V6, 4.0L l6, 4.7L V8, 5.2L and 5.9L V8 and both the iron and aluminum 8L V10's in the Ram truck and Viper, respectively. It's in a lot of vehicles still on the road.
So what does JTEC stand for? I looked in my Haynes for my 2001 Ram and can't find it. I'll check the wiring diag for fuel (asd) and see if I can find it. Thanks!
Keep an eye on the plunger switch under the battery it's like the light switches on the doors that turn on your interior lights when you get in or out of the vehicle. It's a safety switch it'll cut off the ignition in case of a roll over or anything where the battery is dislodged or ejected.
I had NO idea that this existed. My truck just dies at random times, so I am going to check this. Battery compartments Always corrode anything around them, so that's an EXCELLENT tip. Thank you.
JTEC is the company that made the PCM computer module also I had changed that distributor wire named pickup coil sensor but turns out The Pcm computer was bad when I pulled truck to the mechanic shop. I saw another video which advised if there is no check Engine Light and power voltage and ground is ok at the PCM wires it could be bad. I even changed distributor cap, rotor ,ignition coil,Pickup coil sensor. Hope this helps someone.
I'm having the exact same problem. Except my issue is fuel I can pour fuel in carb and will start . I have no power to fuel pump. Every other symptom is same . can ya help me trouble shoot if ya got time ?
I am not a fan of doing electrical diagnosing, and Chrysler products are the primary reason. The last one I worked on was an '05 Caravan with "Transmission issues". Turned out to be the Alternator, and I only found that out, entire accidentally...
It is crazy how one issue is not even related to your problem. Good job finding the issue on the van. One thing I noticed with Chrysler products is that even now in 2022 they have electric problems.
My guess is that JTEC stand for “Jeep Truck Engine Controller” (back in the day, all Jeeps and Pick up trucks were designed in the same building in Plymouth Rd, Detroit Michigan
my 2000 ram 1500 quit running, checked fuses and relays "ggod" if I poor gas in the manifold it fires off when cranking. does it mean positively it's the fuel pump?
Hey man do you know why the asd relay would be clicking about once a minute with truck running and with the truck off, it dims my lights and bogs the engine. But the truck starts and runs fine it just bogs down about once a minute
It sounds like you have a wire that is bear and the copper part is making contact with metal. Have you tried swapping the relay to eliminate that relay. It is possible your relay is bad. If you swap the relay and the problem is still present then you will have to hunt down a bad wire. Those things are what I would try first. For sure swap out the relay first. I have found 9 times out of 10 Italian the easy cheap thing that fixes most issues. Let me know what you find. Or if you have any more questions I will do my best to help. Have a good night. Good luck.
JTEC is a Johnson Thermoelectric energy converter. I remember something about this, but I can't remember what it was. I have forgotten more than I will ever know. I googled it. Matter of fact I google the shit out of just about everything. Maybe that's why I can't remember anything, it's all there in google.
Good morning Sir, I hope this brief missive finds you well… I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500. I have similarly the same issues you demonstrate on your Truck… I keep getting the same code: P1388 and what’s happening is that I will be driving down the road and the engine just shuts-off. And I have to wait between 1/2 -1 hour and 99. % of the times it stars and I can keep moving until it shuts off … any recommendations ? Would greatly appreciated Thank you very much in advance, Fernando
Good morning Sir, I hope this missive finds you well… Excellent video … I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500. I seem to have the same issues you demonstrate on your video. I keep getting the same code:P1388 anyhow, every time I am on the road driving the engine just shuts-off and have to wait 30minutes to one hour and 99%of the time it will start and I proceed to drive until it happens again … Is there any chance of you giving me some advice as to what to do ? Thank you very much in advance, Fernando Ortega
@@allenpreece2100 I have replaced the following items: New factory programed Computer. Changed all sensors on the motor with the exemption of the camshaft position sensor . Is that what is properly identified as ? … I did check it and have been able to confirm that I have signal, voltage. Checked all the fuses and I will check the ASD relay ?? I am just dumbfounded. The Truck will start with no problem once I am on the road the Truck just shuts off
It is the cam shaft sensor. If it has signal that should not be the problem. Have you done a tune up? Does your truck have a Mas air flow sensor? When it shuts down does it sputter and die or does it just die? Are there any stored codes in the computer?
What's going on here? The new generation RAMS with Magnum engines didn't have distributors......has this truck had an older first gen. engine installed?
i need your help, I have the same o2 connector as in your video, 4 wire, 2x whites for elements and black/gray for signal. I been getting 0141 and 0138 which points to the downstream o2, and i replaced it and still getting hi volts b1s2. i checked the voltage on the truck side, as in your video, and im getting 13v for the elements and 4v for the signal. my upstream sensor is working fine and no other CEL codes have returned its always 0138 and/or 0141
@@allenpreece2100 yes both new and old sensor ohm was good 5-6ohms and both created voltage when heated up. the brand is ebay, i know its not scream quality but the upstream is also ebay brand and it works as it should
@@allenpreece2100 i did first i use a volt meter and i got 13v for the elements side and 4v from the signal wire on the truck side of connector . and today i used my power probe and i got ground on 3 wires with key on and 13v with engine running. the only wire i did not get a reading from either off or running was orange w/black it was neither hot or ground that same wire on the sensor side is black wire
Okay. So both codes lead to your o2 sensor one is for the circuit voltage to high 0138. And the other is for the o2 temp reading. I know you know this but we need to figure out why you are getting 13v to that one wire. That seems high. As for the temp code. Do you have a heat gun? If so take the o2 sensor out and heat up the tip of the sensor with the heat gun and as it is heating up check the ohms reading with your meter and see if that changes at all. I will look in my manual to see what circuit that harness comes off of to see if we can pin point the high voltage issue.
@@allenpreece2100 I tried that and it did the same thing the one problem it has that is a clue is it has orange spark and I replaced the coil, cam and crank sensors and the whole distributor cap and rotor. Before it broke down I did smell what smelled like rubber/wire melting just to let you know.
Ok. Have you checked the wiring under the dash to make sure it is not damaged? Do you have any codes for anything on the obd2? have you tried checking the wiring the comes off the computer to make sure there are no breaks or melted wiring? All the fuses and relays are good? And it cranks over it just doesn't start?
@@allenpreece2100 Monro switched the pcm so they cleared any codes and I'm going to take it to the people who put my blue light bar on my truck to go over the wiring and fuse boxes.
Ok so recently did cab swap on my 97 to an 01 cab. Kept all my wires plugged everything back in no start. Cranks no start. Changed the coil and crank sensor brand new battery still nothing. Relays are good but won't connect to obd2 reader. When I try to start it my battery and oil pressure gauge works that's. I'm lost
When it cranks are you getting spark and gas? I am sure you plugged all the connections back in, on the pcm did you get the 3 connectors in the right spot? I have crossed those plugs before and it would not start. Also are you getting any codes?
@@allenpreece2100 never disconnected the pcm. No fuel no spark. Fuel pumped worked at first but doesn't click on now. Obd2 won't connect keeps saying error. I have no voltage at the coil. Have power everywhere else.
K so if the coil has no power that is why your obd2 wont connect. If we can get the power back to the coil your pump should work and you will have spark again. Under the cab on the drivers side there is 2 wire connection's they are at the front of the cab right at the frame... are those connected? Also check the fuses in the dash one under the hood. When you swapped the can did you take the dash apart. ?
Assuming you have a 90s dodge ram... that code is for your evap purge valve. I would first do a vacuum leak test. Using a smoke machine is best. If you have no leaks then I would check off the purge valve and test it. When the slave is off the truck you can apply voltage to the pins in the connector and if it clicks by adding voltage or taking it away then the valve is working. If there is no clicking noise then you need a new valve.
I just bought a 98 Dodge 1500 3.9. I replaced the transmission, crank sensor, plugs and wires. It will not start. It cranks. It started with no problem before hand. Diagnostic testing comes back "Automatic shutoff" ??? I'm lost. Any suggestions
Did you get all the wires in the right spot? If they are off then it will not start and the ignition system is tied into the automatic shut down. I would start there. Let me know if that doesn't work for you.
This is a one-in-a- million problem that you had encountered how would you possibly think other people at least enough number of people would have the same problem as to Merit making a half an hour video and talkin Tech talk most weekend mechanics couldn't understand in a million years. Oh and what the heck
Well @Harry how can you think anyone gives a rats backside what your opinion is either. Maybe his video helped someone! Either way was it really necessary to make a comment that provided zero knowledge or even constructive criticism....almost seems you went out of your way to be a Richard, long for Dick, pointless for all who need help with their trucks!
01 1500 5.2, Replaced Cap/Rotor/Pick-up, Plugs+wires, Coil, Crank Sensor, TPS Sensor, Battery is not even a year old. annnd Still Crank, no start!!! Wtf????
I can't believe I wasted 20 min of my life listening to your blog. U could of made a 2 min video to help us, not ramble on for 20 about what the problem wasnt
I totally understand. Still trying to figure out the RU-vid stuff and how to make better informative videos that are not long. Thanks for watching anyway. Happy new year!
@@allenpreece2100 😁Man..Don' t You Change A Thing About Your Approach To Making The Video..The Process Of Elimination Was Very Helpful..Great Insight Into Things I Wasn't Aware Of..
