In this video we are replacing a neutral safety switch on a 2007 Honda Odyssey. This will fix a code P1717 and the infamous “no start” condition. Enjoy!
Thanks! This was very helpful, in addition to other videos I found for a replacing a 2007+ Odyssey neutral safety switch--definitely in a different location (as shown in this video) than 2006 or before. I actually did the job from the top, after removing the battery and battery tray, as well as the air filter housing/intake or whatever it's called. Left me tons of room to work from the top, although I can see how being able to access it from the side as you did might have been helpful in addition to top access or even instead of going from the top. I just hate removing that black plastic stuff--always end up breaking those damned pop fasteners. I did find it puzzling that the very first, outer nut that you remove requires first bending back that tab, which covers a whole side of the hex nut. But there seemed to be no way to do this without removing that nut, and therefore bending that tab out of the way. Whereas the little tabs on the innermost "washer" (the piece that serves as the shift position pointer) are tiny and easy to bend out of the way or back into position. ALSO, for any of you going from the top, it's DEFINITELY worth removing the big black air intake unit which is held on only by one bolt and a ring clamp. And then removing the VERY large electrical connection under that, which has a plastic lever than you push down to unfasten it. Removing that makes it easier to get to the battery tray bolt underneath. The part most people complain about in removing the battery tray is having to reach way underneath the tray to find a "hidden" 12mm bolt toward the front end of the car. I actually did not have too tough of a time with that--I pulled out the ATF dipstick to get it out of the way and slipped my left arm down and under the battery tray, holding the head of a 12mm socket/socket wrench to find its way on to the head of that hidden bolt. I reached over the top of the battery tray with my right arm to find the end of the socket wrench to push down while my left hand held the socket in place on the head of the bolt. Fortunately the bolt was not at all frozen so I was able to easily get the bolt to start turning out/loosen. All of the above doesn't matter of course if you go in from the side like you did! Oh, also, I'm glad you showed the last step of leaving the top and bottom sensor 10mm nuts a bit loose so that you could rotate the sensor so that the pointer aligns exactly to the line on the sensor when the shift lever is in N-Neutral. That's why those bolt holes on the sensor are slotted, to be able to make that small adjustment.
Great video I’m doing it right now in my garage and you have showed me everything . It also showed me that the one coming off is silver in color and the new one is black. Also thanks for showing the connector removal. The replacement part number is 28900-RYF-023. I’ll just ask if is correct before changing. Thanks a whole bunch. Artie 👍
I just replaced this part on the same van a few days ago and it's been running fine and this morning I was parking and had it in drive and then threw it in reverse real fast and got the gas and it just ramped up but would no go and then I put it in drive and back in reverse and it was okay again. It's never done that in the 6 years I've had it. Any ideas of what that could be?
Important: The blue nut at 1:54 has a retainer. You MUST bend the retainer away from the nut before the 12mm socket will fit. That took several frustrating minutes to figure out.
On a 05 MDX, with the same sensor, I replaced it but now my MDX won't get out of park on its own. I have to use the "shift lock release". On Google, I found forums saying it's the brake switch, but my brake lights work.. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thank you for that great video. I have mine taking apart right now but I cannot get the neutral safety switch off of the shaft. Am I missing something?
I have 2008 Honda Ridgeline. After I install range sensor on ..I try to start the car no crank no start/but d3 is flashing on dash and green key also flashing too. After I watch your video on u tube… may be I didn’t put on shaft neutral position
Yes, and no. They're very little differences between the two. Either way, when you're at an auto parts store an experienced guy at the counter will know what you're looking for using either name
After replacing this I can switch to all gears and all of them work, but I have to play with the shifter a little to get the P R N D lights to turn on. What did I do wrong?
