Just ordered me a new resistor also. I am having an issue with my thermostat running fine then it will jump to 3/4 temp and sometimes red line,but as soon as it hits the red line it jumps back down to running temp/halfway mark on thermostat. Great vid thanku for the detailed explanation of everything you were doing.
Forgot to mention it was doing this before i changed the thermostat housing. I was thinking a sticking thermostat was my issue. To me for it to jump back down from red line to running temp the high speed fan is kicking in but im not getting the low speed fan to kick on to maintain the running temp. Right? I dont lose coolent and the car runs great no check engine no slow down when the temp spikes happen.
I'm going to replace that resistor I've been thru hell trying to figure out why it was overheating and the a/c not working thanks a lot. I'll let you know if I get good results thx.
hi there master chevy aveo 2009 seeing you awesome work have the seme issue only when reach 230F of temperature hi fan comes on but never low fan dropping resister when test is supposed to have ground or current? mine shows ground whit test light it will be awesome if you reply boss thanks
The dropping resistor runs the fan on low speed. You can test it with an ohm meter for continuity or check for power going in and out of it when the low speed fan is supposed to be on. You can also put your test light across the resistor and if your test light turns on the resistor is open. good luck.
I went to the parts store {Napa) and they said that the Dorman part number you provided cross reference is for the 1.4 and 1.8 that's in Chevy Cruze and not for the Aveo 1.6.. So does it still work for the Aveo 1.6 as well?
@@PhillipBailey I installed it as it came, and I'm getting code P0597. I was thinking that maybe I needed to put in the sensors from the old thermostat housing.
@@George-tt4cm Thats a code for the thermostat heating element. Did you plug it in? Here's the test procedure: 1. Check the EMS2 EF25 fuse in the underhood fuse block. It should be hot with the engine running. 2. Disconnect the engine coolant thermostat heater connector on the thermostat housing. 3. Test for 12 volts on the Orange/Black wire. 4. Test for a pulsed ground signal on the Brown wire while commanding the heater with a scan tool. 5. If no scan tool support, check the Brown wire from the heater to Engine Control Module (ECM) terminal 43 in the X1 connector for opens and shorts. Alternately you could plug in your old one and see if the codes clear. If so the new part is defective.
@@PhillipBailey Thank you. I noticed that there is coolant leaking from the connection where the throttle body heater inlet pipe connects to the thermostat housing, it is the same issue I had with the old thermostat housing. It looks like the issue is the throttle body heater inlet pipe, it's not sealing correctly. I will put in the old thermostat to see if the code clears.
@@PhillipBailey So I did but Not fan work at all .İs my mistake is only connect two cable without ground under cables ? so no 5v referance and not work fan? clearly I only connect 2 cable eachother thats it.. I did use A/C and be cold my engine only...
@asarcik the part you bypassed is just a resistor. The fan only runs when the temperature or ac pressure require it to. Are your fuses good? Is the car overheating?
@@PhillipBailey Yes engine warm. But I check all fan relays with a multimeter. I listen tick voice from relays. Thermostat still open and close. Iwant to try to say resistor connect on ground and circle a metal cover. I think changeable volt 12 from 5 or reverse make by that ground.
