Great content my friend! Subscribed! Two simple questions.. I am doing top end in my 21 CRF250 and wanted to know if it would be ok to clean the valves with like you did with scotch bright if I plan on keeping my valves in the existing head? Just worried it may take away from them sealing. And even though I am not replacing the valve's (unless they need to be), I was wondering if you leave the valve seals in the head while lapping or take them out? Thank you so much for all your effort and taking the time to answer the comments. I know how much work you put into these. When your channel blows up your not going to be able to handle all the comments so I am taking advantage of your time and knowledge before your too big!
Thank you for your support. Titanium valves have a coating so unless they have been replaced with steel, I wouldn’t lap them. Some manufacturers allow for lapping of their titanium valves, but you would have to check your service manual. If I were to lap the valves, I would remove the valve seals because since the head is apart, I would replace them anyway. I’ve never had an issue with using a fine Scotch-Brite or quad zero steel wool to clean up any of my valves. Good luck with your build.
Great video but i have question i ended up buying a 2007 kx 250f and been kick starting it several times to get it to start you can hear it wanting to start but it just wont start i change the oil and the spark plug any suggest on what to check out first to see the problem thanks it means alot if you respond
Check your valve clearances first and foremost. If its been sitting, it may need a carburetor clean or rebuild. After that, my next step would be compression and leak down tests.
I just changed the oil on mine and the bottom right oil inlet where the oil filter is was clogged with grease from the break in oil change… guess the shop put too much to keep that spring in place. Any idea what part of the motor that one goes to?
