Part one in a 3 part series(continue with part one next week too) of rebuilding a 42RE, same goes for 44RE,46RE,48RE. In this part we will prepare the drums and pump and planets too. Thanks for watching, please like and subscribe.
Just started not soaking my clutches on last few builds as I seen you did here with no problems. Def less of a mess and easier going together. Thanks for your time.
@@GaryFerraro sure is, I think it needs a new trans mount but with this diesel you have to get exhaust down as least a little to get rear bracket down. I can't wait for zf 8hps start coming in more and more, although the Germans have their tuning down pretty good, so long as you do fluid and filter they seem to really last
@@GaryFerraro Acura trans has 180k and holding. Thinking of getting a used unit and having it benched out. Not by me of course. The A500 was an easy trans in comparison to many others. I know that much.
This is great glad to see your doing rebuild videos now sir and thank you very much for the help and advice on the 5r55w its working perfectly. May have some questions on an a4ld
I've watched this almost 4 times now. Lol I keep missing some of the visuals due to multitasking. I always enjoy watching your videos, even if multiple times in a day. A full rebuild is right up my alley! 😉😁😊
@@GaryFerraro haha... i always make 2 versions and publish them at the same time. Hopefully you aren't getting too much snow there! Stay well my friend! 🤗😁
Excellent idea with the line up shaft. I have pieces I keep around for similar reasons... like a pump tower to check the 4 stretch seals on the input drum on 4L60E. Looks like that piece with 3 legs on the press was hand made too 🤔 i like it. You have the ability to see what you're doing better, more access!
Hey, Gary, working on the subassemblies I found the forward clutch piston had shed some aluminum around the center of the piston. Not by the seal but the inner diameter of the return spring. Also before i removed it, the piston was loose, like it could come in and out a bit; the wave return spring wasn't holding it from moving. I didn't have a problem in any forward gears, only had no reverse. I'm not a fan of shredding material so I'm thinking I need a piston too. Money is less of a factor as time now. Thanks in advance as always.
@@GaryFerraro Hey Gary, have you ever just replaced the inner seal in the direct clutch to fix the 2-3 flare? Got a 44re with only 70k original miles that just started doing this. Hate to get a complete rebuild and I think I could replace just that seal myself.
Do you guys work on manuals? I have an 06 Mazda 3 with the 5 speed, the third gear synchro is shot and it feels very worn in general. Just saw that you guys were on LI and got curious. I actually have an 01 Grand Cherokee with a hard shifting 42RE, but it's not on the road right now so not a priority.
good videos. I have a question. I am having problems getting that 1 tab thrust washer that has a flat spot in the center , that is in the front of the ring gear on top of the 2 tab washer. Do you have a part number or part store discription so i can order it. Your help would br appreciated
I'm nearly finished reassembling an identical 42re for my 2000 Grand Cherokee. I really appreciate your videos and the detail! I couldn't have gotten this far without them. I'm stuck on one detail though. I'm checking the clearances in my forward and direct drums. The ATSG manual calls for .030"-.050" (I'm at less than .010")on the front drum and .050"-.080" (I'm at .090") on the direct drum. The rep at transtar I talked to suggested swapping the wavy snap ring and the flat thicker snap ring between the drums. I can physically do that and that should fix my clearances. Is that an acceptable solution? Can I swap a wavy snap ring for a flat one and vice versa, or will that cause problems? For reference, I'm using identical .066" steels in both drums. I'm positive that I'm using the correct thinner frictions in the forward drum and the thicker ones in the direct drum. All frictions were pre-soaked so that I could follow the ATSG clearances.
@@GaryFerraro I measured the pressure plates. They are identical in thickness. I bought one thicker .088" steel to bring the direct drum clearance into spec. Now it's a matter of finding a thinner snap ring or pressure plate for the forward drum. Transtar told me that thinner steels aren't an option as the ones I have are already the thinner .066" ones. It sure would be convenient to be able to swap snap rings between the drums to take care of two birds with one stone, but I assume there's a good reason one snap ring is wavy and one is flat. Given that I've never rebuilt a transmission before, I'm reluctant to experiment for fear of running into problems later.
@@GaryFerraro That's an interesting thought. I may try that if I can't source an appropriate snap ring or pressure plate. Transtar couldn't get either for me so I'll have to look somewhere else. Thanks for the advice! I'm shocked by how quickly you responded to my question on a 1 year old video!
@@andrewforrister6206 I have had to do that a few times and all worked out ok, No problem on answering i'm always on and get notified when a question comes through
Hey Gary, Thanks for the great videos. I just successfully rebuilt a 42RE in a 2000 Grand Cherokee with your help. How critical is the transmission relearn procedure? My autoinginuity scan tool won't do it on the 6-cylinder for some reason. I'm waiting on a call back from their engineers but wonder if I can drive it safely in the meantime. It drives just fine. Thanks
@@GaryFerraro I have about 50 miles on the newly rebuilt transmission and now it doesn’t go back into first at stop when at operating temp. In drive, it works fine cold then it almost always starts from a stop in 2nd gear after everything warms up. It will drop into 1st if shifted manually. Everything else, other gears and reverse work fine. I confirmed governor demand and actuals follow each other closely on the scan tool up to 45 mph but have not yet confirmed the governor sensor with an analog gauge. There are no codes. The throttle cable and shift cables are functioning and adjusted correctly. Is there a usual culprit you see here? As I start checking this out with gauges, am I correct to assume governor and front servo pressures should be near 0 at idle in drive while stopped? Anything else would indicate the front band staying engaged holding it in 2nd gear, correct?
I think I have the problem you mention @ 4:20 I have a '95 Jeep Cherokee ZJ. 2-3 gear change when cold it will just rev up and really struggle to engage 3rd gear. When warm it's ok. One thing before I tear down this transmission, I have noticed a small leak on the oil cooler check valve pipe. Would this cause that issue? Getting Air in the system when parked overnight and fluid drains back? Also when warm I have a judder pulling away. Not sure if a trans problem or a bad rear diff (LSD). Your opinion would be appreciated, thanks!
Sounds like the inner seal is no good. I would say no to the small leak at the line. If draining back the car will not move for about the first 30 seconds to a minute forward or reverse, If air was getting in the fluid will look like bubbles in it
@@GaryFerraro looks like I'll be ripping it apart then! Thanks for the speedy reply and advice. Is there Any specific brand/supplier you recommend to purchase an overhaul kit from?
Finally found a good assembly video. Helps to know when and where to use assembly lube. I think the general rule is on the back of pistons and on bushing where a shaft rides. And on bearings/washers just to hold them in place. Do you always replace all bearings or is it only if they show wear? Two of my bearings are going to cost $200 each. So far I could have bought 3 used transmissions for what it's costing me to learn this, lol.
@@GaryFerraro Was mostly worried about the big bearings on the input/output shafts. But I have probably 10 smaller roller and needle bearings. Tranny has over 250k miles on it so I'm trying to do as much as I can afford all at once. It's not the one in this video. I was just watching this one for general assembly tips.
Hey Gary I have a zf5hp24 transmission from a bmw and it has no reverse and I have already taken a look at the valve body for cracks and the only thing i can think of is the worn out f clutch. Any ideas?
Hello Gary, I love your videos! Very detailed! I would like to ask your advise on a 2001 Dodge Dakota I am helping a cousin with this truck! Is a Rear Wheel Drive A500, I think or 42RE! Anyway, this transmission has no Reverse, no 3rd and no 4th Gear and obviously no Overdrive! Before I opened this transmission it had NO 2nd Gear but everything else was working! Now shift into First very smooth than 2nd very smooth and stops there! When is trying to go into 3rd gear it feels like is going to Neutral! I'm confused on what I have done wrong! Can you please advise me what I may have done wrong! I would really appreciate! Thank you!
@@GaryFerraro Hello Gary. Thank you very much for the quick reply! I really appreciate! I replaced this drum, do you think that maybe something wrong with this drum? How about if the front brake band is lose? That can also cause not to engage in reverse and 3rd?
@@gxsdallas Not the front band, i would drop out\ the valvebody and air check the drum, question before you drop out the valvebody, does this by chance move forward in Neutral?
Hello Gary. Are you asking in Neutral with the engine running if moves forward? I can check but I don't think so. I have not reverse, no 3rd, 1st and 2nd moves very smoothly, but no 4th or overdrive at all! When tries to shift from 2nd to 3rd it goes to kind of like neutral or maybe if clutches are not catching! Thank you again for the reply!
@@gxsdallas Yes, with engine running just want to confirm it does or does not
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Mr. Gary, teacher a friendly greeting, your videos and tutorials are very instructive. I congratulate you. I wanted to consult you. I have a 2000 4.0 Cherokee with the A500 42RH transmission and I need to repair it. Please do you have the complete Repair Kits model I need for this transmission. Thanks greetings
Where would be a good place to get a rebuild kit I have some with a whole grand Cherokee and there selling it for 400 the only thing wrong with it is the trans and I wanna rebuild it or replace it
@@GaryFerraro Good to know. I'm tearing down my 42RLE which has a weirdly aggressive kickdown issue, but recently when it kicks down, it jolts very hard several times until the foot is off the pedal, then it drops into whatever speed-appropriate gear and drives normally. Fluid is normal qty, normal color, normal smell. No other issues. Maybe something very simple.
A true craftsman at work. Have you ever thought of fixing watches? I noticed you didn't soak your friction disks in trans fluid. Is that a bit of a myth? Thank you for the videos.
@@GaryFerraro the trans shop just told me they found a broken snap ring in the pan of my 42re. $2800 to rebuild. All gears work fine for now. Going to run it until it fails.
The snap ring is the overdrive/direct snap ring, they break all the time, may be ok for a while, snap ring is held by a very heavy spring in the extension housing section of the trans.@@Yoyo81828
