In this video we go over 5 things every 2000-2006 Tahoe owner should upgrade. If I missed anything then comment down below. Part 2: • 5 Things Every 2000-20...
@@evapelayo4150 wheels are motiv magnus 23b and they are a 20x12s with a -44 offset. Tires are 33x12.50 R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Thanks for watching.
I added a trucool 40k transcooler. Worth every penny. My 2005 tahoe came with an electric fan when I bought it from an older couple. Its all factory. I also did a Denali cluster swap that has the trans temp gauge. Swapped out the 5.3l for a 6.0l. Night and day difference. Plan on doing a 4l80e in the future.
@@s.maverickharrisonii6019 any cluster from 2003-2006 denali or escalade will swap right in and have the trans temp. I think even the 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks have the cluster with the trans temp gauge.
04 was the best model year for that generation of tahoes in my opinion. Still has some of the 90s nostalgia with all the best the early 2000s had to offer.
I'm new to your channel, as I own a 2011 Tahoe for about a month now I wanted to see what advice people had, I plan to pull a toy trailer so the breaks ,Trans cooler and cool air intake made really perfect sense. I'm thinking about a small 3 inch suspension lift for ground clearance. But thumbs up thanks for the advice.
I have an 03 LS. I've done all the upgrades you have here except for the transmission cooler. Another must is a center console swap if you have the flip up front seat. It bolts right in and adds extra cup holders and a power outlet for the rear passengers.
Love love! I’m in Texas w a 02 Tahoe and I will do this soon. Ac needs help getting cold so these fan mods sound perfect. No one else has explained these! Great video!!
I upgraded mine with better brakes all the way around with new hydraulic brake lines. I was debating on getting a cold air intake and after doing some research and coming across your video it definitely made me decide on getting one. I plan on upgrading a few other things along the line in the future but this intake I will take word for it.
K&N makes a two-piece setup that draws the air from below the bumper. When one is driving at speed above 20mph, the air coming into the engine bay is cooler than if you're at a stop light. Personally, I love the growl of a cold air intake over music playing. Last note, the K&N two-piece setup will set you back $500 to $600
Well done video, I believe you are right on these upgrades. Sure everyone wants Larger tires and cool wheels but if you don't take care of the engine and drivetrain your Tahoe will look cool sitting on the back of the flatbed.
You are on your way to making a 3/4 ton Tahoe. All those power train upgrades are already on 2500 series trucks (except the 80 trans). For theft deterrence : Get a small round black push button SPST switch (less than $5.00) and nicely install it on the left side inside the glove box where it is hard to see. Light gauge wire is all you need up and out to the under hood fuel pump fuse / relay box. Reroute the gas pump relay activation coil hot wire to and from the glove box switch. One wire in and one wire out. Less than 1 amp flows in that relay coil circuit to activate the in-tank fuel pump relay, so 16 or 18 or 20 ga wire is all that is needed. When you leave the truck reach in and push the switch off. It will turn over and act like it wants to run but dies without fuel.
@@jboe7683 Just find where the fuel pump relay is located. The same no-relay workie idea applies. alarm or not. Or you cold just pull the relay and put it in your pocket. But then you may lose it at the beach. That would be a b**ch.
I just bought a 03 rwd in Fullerton for 8k at 130k miles, took it to Malibu both ways for work (45 miles) never had a issue. Coming up on 150k mi soon. It definitely needs some performance mods but I’m still on the fence since I might sell it for a 06 Yukon 4x4 with a sunroof
The tahoe’s have had real bad paint on the roof. I’m from MS and got a decent tahoe for 1200. It was dirty AF and the sunroof needs fixing but the engine runs like a dream of course
@@EGSHLya I notice all Tahoe’s Yukons all years 2002-2010 have horrible sun roof damage hood damage and side damage with paint drying Either a clear coat was never done… a yearly clay polish and wax was. NEver done in the trucks like or gm used single stage paint to be cheap af Bought a 2004 Yukon that looks garaged most of its life but has slight paint damage starting to happen on the hood
I got an Air raid intake air tube but kept my stock box I drilled sum wholes in the bottom n drop in a k&n reusable filter best decision I did for truck n that air raid intake air tube was tested wit stock air box an it keeps tha air alil cooler than an actual spectre or k&n intake facts but great video fam
New subscriber tonight- 11May2022. I have an '04 Yukon SLT with 337K miles. You have some informative 👍 topics about my Yukon. Example, the brake pistons and which vehicle to get them from. I tow my 2006 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14 motorcycle to car/bike shows all over Washington State, Oregon, Canada, Idaho, Montana, Utah, Nevada, but NOT California(I HATE that State plus I can't conceal carry legally in Cali). I'm gonna be binge'n your videos most of the night cause I wanna kero my Yukon for at least 2 more years then trade in for brand new GMC Denali 2500 Diesel truck. Moving to Montana in 2025 or 2026 and gonna need that truck in the area I'm moving to. Thank youfor keeping videos short sweet and to the point and then you explain WHY certain thing is and that helps me understand why you make sense to upgrade, watch for, change out regularly, etc.
I have the same stereo but I have 2 15’s dumpin in the same but bigger box you got in my 06 Tahoe. I firmly believe that a suspension upgrade is definitely needed in these
I did all of these upgrades to my 2004 Suburban. I put 2018 Suburban/ Silverado 18" oem alloy wheels along with the 2018 Suburban/ Silverado front caliper, rotors and pads on it and WOW, big difference on braking with the new bigger oem upgraded brakes over the original oem small front brakes that come on these years originally. I also installed the bigger truecool transmission cooler and installed a TransGo HD2 shift kit along with the corvette servo to help with the 4l60e flaws and helps it last longer. I am also using Amsoil transmission fluid. I also installed the dual electric fans upgrade along with an oem electric fans wiring harness that fits and wires right up like it should from factory. I also installed a Mechman 250 amp alternator to help keep up with the electrical system with adding the electric fans and did the big 3 wiring upgrade on the charging system. I to install a pioneer navigation system that was still capable of keeping all the oem functions that came with the vehicle, like the steering wheel controls, onstar, and XM radio. I also installed a back-up camera and a front camera that works perfectly with the pioneer double din radio.. Another awesome upgrade I did was installing the transmission temperature gage in the oem instrument cluster, it is so much nicer knowing your transmission temperature when towing and I think it should of came in ALL GM trucks from factory that way. I did add a cold air intake as well. With ALL these upgrades on my 2004 Suburban, it is so much nicer to drive qnd more enjoyable as well especially during the summer with staying cool inside my Suburban do to the electric fans, the old clutch fan couldn't keep up with the A/C system when sitting at a light or in traffic. With all the nice upgrades it brings it up to date with the future of newer vehicles on having the same technology and luxury. All these upgrades I thinks is a must for these generation of GM trucks to make them more enjoyable and current with todays times
First, thank you for commenting and sharing your experience. I plan on doing most of the mods you mentioned especially the corvette servo. Your suburban should should last you a very long time.
@@chantzsgarage thanks, I hope it does, I put enough money into it on trying to make it reliable for family road trips 😁. It still runs very strong for having 206k on it. I am sure you already know these trucks engines are bullet proof and more reliable then the newer gens and are more desirable platform with people because of it, like you have said, the big weak point is the 4l60e. I am also in the process of doing the same thing to my 1996 2500 7.4L Suburban with the 4l80e as well on upgrades that can be done to it and bringing it up to mechanical reliability. I am almost done with it as well. I love the suburban and Tahoe platforms. Especially 96 thru 99 years and early 2000-2006 years.
Thanks for your comments Tyson. I've wanted one for years and just bought 2004 Suburban Z71, 5.3 in excellent condition. 198 K. Seller and myself use the same mechanic for years and I had him check it before buying. Transfer case is leaking and being repaired or replaced. Rear Evap is leaking so fixing the A/C, new fuel pump, R&R oil pan to replace the pick up oil seal, flush trans. fluid and dash cluster fix before I ever get to drive it home. It's had good care and only light surface rust underneath as it came from Kansas to Mich. 4 yrs. ago. Love all the good info and following for this generation of Suburbans. Lots of money but hopefully a good investment for this old farmer.
@jefffrayer8238 hope you enjoy your new to you Suburban 😁. I have 2 of them a 1996 2500 with the 7.4L 454 with a 4l80e and 2004 1500 with the 5.3 with the 4l60e. The 5.3 is a tough engine and as long as normal maintenance is done to keep it going it won't let you down. The suburban is such a versatile vehicle and good for everything you would need it for. I use mine for everything from taking kids and groups to baseball games or events to towing when I need it to and camping in the back on some weekends. I love them.
@@tysoncurrie7745 I talked to a guy a couple years ago as he was gassing up his older Suburban. Said he Loves them and has 2. Been serching but found this on the way to town. It's as represented but nobody knew it had the common problem of internal shaft rubbing through aluminum housing of the transfer. It was half low on oil so can probably be fixed. I left it at the shop, having many things fixed and paid the owner as promised. The engine rattles but hoping as several vids suggest O-ring seal needs replacing. He said several needed new oil pan gaskets replaced so it's not unusual to pull the pan. In the past year the A/C quit working and 4 WD selection was messing up a bit. Being Widowed hoping to travel a bit and camp or sleep in the back. So glad to find all the info and help with this series of Suburbans. Glad I have a great mechanic and why I buy him a pizza now and then..
Fellas do NOT add a “Hot Air Intake” to these trucks. Your IAT temperature will skyrocket due to super hot air temperature’s which will cause you to lose a gigantic amount of power. The factory airbox is the best thing for it. It draws in cold air straight through your fender. If you want a better flowing intake tube, buy the AirAid intake tube designed to replace the stock tube. You can also take the upper side piece of the stock air box off and allow it to suck more air in, and let the smaller bottom side piece suck the air in through the fender.
You can also do hydro boost brake swap from hd setup. That said before I fixed my abs controller I could lock up my tires going down the road with new tires on so not sure what was wrong with your brakes.
Hey dude, sweet truck! wondering, is that bull bar blacked out from factory? i have a chrome one on my truck and i am not planning to remove it at all, what would be your suggestion to make it black? black pipe tape? lmk what you think
Get the factory fuse block, E-fans, all the wiring n all out of an 07+ avalanche, Tahoe, Yukon,1500 truck stright bolt on, as long as u have the bigger 34in radiator Hardest thing is having it turned on through comp at a tuner
"2000 years later"... Our town just build a new fire/rescue station about a mile away and the trucks have to go through an intersection where I live. Never ending sirens - So I can relate!
Radio to me is crucial. I had a pioneer with a DVD player. Get the by pass. So when you have kids who get anxious with traffic, throw in Dora the explorer and bam! Problem resolved. I seen videos where guys installed a hard drive for their movie library. Just my 2 cents. Those maintenance mods are definitely a must.
A lot of people do the 6.0 liter intake and throttle body upgrade on the 5.3s. There are YT videos on how it's done. The intake was or is over $300, I believe thru the dealership. I was hoping you had the roof rack reverse light add-ins thats a video I'd like to find as I have an 03 Z71 full size and even with a tail light upgrade backing up in a dark driveway can be annoying as both the factory and after LED tail lights suck. Thanks for the video. It was totally appreciated. Eddie J. Long Island N.Y
great video but the one thing I highly recommend you change is swap out the metal intake pipe with the plastic air raid tube because all the heat from the cooling system as well as the engine get sucked in through the aluminum and raises IAT significantly. You can find videos of this online to verify my information.
front driver side tire starts squealing when i get up to speed and accelerate. just changed wheel bearing. i have to take off slow and take my time to get up to speed. what could be causing it ?
Wow! Great looking Tahoe. I have an 04 z71 myself. Was wondering if you put a lift kit on the truck or not? If so, how many inches and which kit did you use?
Thank you and its sitting on a 3 inch leveling kit from wulf suspension. I only used the torsion keys and rear spring blocks from the kit and added some bilstein 5100 struts.
I added a 2” leveling kit from Rough Country for the front(Anyone make a 3.5” lift for these?). For the rear I added Yukon XL rear coils(non-quadrasteer) with a set of basic Air-lift air bags and Bilstein 5150 shocks on all four corners.
Awesome build... I completely dismantled my GMT800 rebuilt and upgraded as necessary. Swapped to 6.0L hand built a new 4L60E.. tuning it as well... so did you tune for the new intake or turn off the MAF sensor? Computer will process air according to the old intake even if you swap a new one on. Clutch fans are fine... you can buy a different temp clutch fan for towning. They take a bit of HP but nothing bad. The radiator sucks. It is at 100 percent of its capacity so you cannot put a lower temp tstat. I have a dual row radiator on my wish list... the cheaper intakes aren't as good either. Their whole concept is cold air. The airbox on cheaper intakes doesnt isolate the intake air very well from underhood air. Gosh there is so much to list here... change the checkballs on 4l60e valve body to plastic from sonnax. Most of trans failures are checkball passing through separator plate and burning out clutches. Gosh too much to list.
Thank you for providing your knowledge. It sounds like you have a great setup and I would love to go the same route eventually. I have not tuned it yet but it hasn’t affected the drive ability. I could also see where the intake could have some drawbacks especially in the summer time. I may try to keep the clutch fan but it struggles in the summer here in Texas. Thank you again for watching!
@@chantzsgarage I think thing is if you have a clutch fan isnt always worth hastle to swap for electric. Pros and cons to both. Cool to see you build one up too! As for the air box maybe just insulate it somehow with foam tape. The really spendy ones are completely enclosed except for hole to let air in. They also have thicker material to insulate from the underhood air. I want one bad haha but is $$$
How do you like the pioneer radio, I was wanting to get one with navigation. My tahoe has the bose system and it already has an aftermarket pioneer radio, but I want a touch screen with nav and the factory steering wheel controls to work
The reason why we go with the electric fans is that it frees up about 15 to 25 hp, it has a big enough radiator to keep it cool..thought you would like to know
It’s usually less than 5 hp. There is not near 15 to 25 hp loss in any engine driven clutch fan from any vehicle built in the last 25, maybe 30 years. The only vehicles that may be around that much power loss, is commercial vehicles such as a 5 ton And higher truck. Even in the days with vehicles that had engines with the “smog” pump; The total power loss with the smog pump, engine driven clutch fan, and air-conditioning running… Was a combined total of maybe around 10 horsepower loss
Have an 02 Tahoe LS with Barn Doors. Looking to replace factory tail lights with LED tail lights (along with an LED 3rd brake light). Any suggestions? Thanks! And btw great video! Thanks!
I got the rear lights with built in resistors for rapid flashing. Anyways found them online from a local guy. Looks great 2 years later. Haven’t done the top/3rd brake light yet
Hello, I have a question. I have a 2004 Tahoe with 284 thousand miles and I would like to know if it is necessary to adjust the valves for better engine performance.
Trans use oil same way ..the fan you can just go to the junk and find get it out from 07 and up any chevy with the wires and work as stock .the intake should come out in the winter is you live in cold climat ...speaker are great no need to swap em ...you need to do bigger calipers and rotors.no point of just changing the cals. And if you a good driver no need for a camera. Love my tahoe z71 and it fits everywhere I want it .
Any truck that’s not a regular cab 2WD add a radio with a screen and a backup camera whether double din single din flip out or a floating 7 to 9 inch screen pick out the best option for your budget and based on crime data where you live and work if you have a high number of vehicle break-ins a $1K top brand head unit is a bad choice a $100 to $200 radio will work fine.
That’s a great question. The front end would not hold up well if you run heavier aftermarket wheels with 37s without it being upgraded. With that being said, there is more than enough aftermarket support to beef up the front end and everything else needed to run them. I hope this helps.
What’s up bro need to ask, so my 03 tahoe be put putting like it wants to turn off, I replaced the sensor but it’s still doing it what does that mean? If I take the clip off the sensor it breaths like it should with no put put not sure what’s the problem at this point can you help me?
Changed my intake with spectre noticed no power increase at all so thats not true.All it did was change the sound.Did the 07-17 brake upgrade you also need to change the caliper brackets which you did not mention and rotors-from 07-14 tahoe it does improve the brakes but this is a very old mod anyone knows this.Did not upgrade the fans and i tow every week not needed.I also did not upgrade the trans cooler the stock one is just fine.Trans fluid is perfect and clean and i tow every week again.I would agree with vehicle needing a backup camera and if you want a bluetooth radio.
Question on the stereo I was told that in order for it to work I need to buy a piece for it because my 04 Tahoe is a older model can’t remember what it’s called I believe a friend said it’s 100$
Honestly I am not sure. I can say that my radio does not turn on and off with the vehicle so I have to turn it on and off manually. I could be wrong but maybe that piece has something to do with that.
Yes, if you have a stock Bose system I believe, you need a harness to make it work with system amp. You don’t have to spend quite $100 but from experience, Do Not try to go too cheap. I spent $60-ish on the wiring harness , and hooked up a double din head unit.
Drilled/slotted rotors do not help you stop faster and are more likely to crack (especially around the holes). Don't waste your money and use some decent, regular discs.
I have to disagree. The main benefit of drilled and slotted rotors is the the ability to cool down after each time they are used. I’ve run them on my Tahoe now for 10 months and they’ve seen -5 all the way to 105. I also tow a few times a month and haven’t had any issues or dealt with any cracking. I’ve used them on my g35 also and have not had any issues.
@@chantzsgarage My perspective is a bit different, dealing with race cars, but the first place they will crack is around the holes. Sustained heat (like having to ride the brakes down a hill with a heavy trailer) will wreck them faster than non-drilled. Side-by-side comparisons have proven this out. They don't decrease your stopping distance and don't cool down that much faster. They are for show - which I'm not knocking, I've done plenty on my vehicles for show - but just know they're for show.
@@FourOff hence why high performance cars use them, they go through many heat cycles and are expected to have a shorter life. Unless racing the truck and doing many laps, plain rotors and metallic pads are great. Thanks for the knowledge Marc.
@@HostmorkeCZ Slotted, yes. We no longer use drilled on any of our race cars (and neither does F1, NASCAR, GTE, etc). Part of the idea with slotted/drilled rotors is to let dust and gases from the pads escape. Gasses have dropped significantly in newer pads (especially since they don't use asbestos anymore) so it's less of an issue. The slots also wear down pads faster (imagine them shaving the pads), but this can be a good thing because pads can "glaze" under high heat and the slots will trim that off. Bottom line: regular vented rotors are fine for almost all applications. Slotted if you want a performance option (understanding you'll chew through pads a bit faster). Drilled are "cool looking" but don't increase performance and are more likely to develop cracks.
@@FourOff I apologize I just realized I never responded. I understand your point better now and you are correct about the rotors. I think this is something everyone should understand when they are buying rotors. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
