In this video I try to explain whats going inside the injector. Why keeping fuel pressure above 41 PSI is so important and how to diagnose which cylinder is the one causing the miss.
I'm sending a huge THANK YOU up to you in Heaven, Ron! I'm currently dealing with misfires and because of you I know what I need to do to diagnose this. Already did the listen (starter wire to battery) test on the base engine--good. I'll be getting a fuel pressure tester, and if low check if I HAVE a blue spring as I was "told" when I bought the truck, and buzz testing the injectors. I got this! All because of you sharing your immense knowledge.
Just read the comments about Ron. I'm would like to express my deepest condolences to his family. His youtubes have been a big help to me. He was a very special and talented mechanic. God speed my friend.
Rest easy Ron. you were an amazing mechanic! The best, goddamn modern mechanic ive ever heard of! I've been in the industry for two decades and you still teach me the fine points every time! Wish you were still among us brother!
RIP Diesel Tech Ron (aka 6 oh Jesus) wish you were still around to see how many people your STILL helping. Rest easy in that big shop in the sky brother
Stunning presentation. When I saw these coming in 95, and the dealership was audited, I decided to leave LA and Santa Barbara and go to Oregon. Tons of trucks up here, and thanks for the info. Sorry to see you go, good techs like you are rare.
Reading comments I assume hes passed. Im blown away. You really have great knowledge and im grateful you share. May God be with you. Thanks for helping those you inspired.
Great diagnostic video. I really appreciate you taking the time to show us these awesome tips. Have no idea whatsoever how you have time to make these videos. I had to find time just to watch them! This one, i watched at 2:30 am! You, DieselTechRon, are my new best friend. I have an 03 F350 6.0l in my shop right now, billowing black smoke, misfiring, codes in FICM and PCM. Im a staunch Identifix user, great tool. Always looking for best/quickest diagnostic routines. I invested less than 30 minutes into tryiing to figure out first steps into this diagnosis. Identifix points to high percentage of EGR failures for smokes, your videos are more thorough. Your my go to guy for Diesels. Thanks!
THANKS RON! You helped me, good info. I noticed the aftermarket oil filter on the truck, lol. My customer had a misfire, #3 I said had! Thanks for the good info.
Thanks! Another awesome video. I've learned so much from your video series. I hope your customer has enough money to replace that aftermarket oil filter cap (and presumably the filter too) with the stock one. ;)
If you had done this type of breakdown for every car and truck, would be way easier to fix it.Very precise instructions.thank you Sir.You were a giant.
I was watching this and thinking this guy really knows how to explain things really well to where you can nearly automatically understand, I told my lady then later in the video read the comments, he passed very sad
Ron is a Living Legend as many have already stated down below. Let me define what a living legend means. It means during their life time and after, people still remain to talk good about you.. #RonTheDieselKing
You left out one of the coolest parts. The reason it is caused an "intensifier" piston, you have X surface area on the top of the piston in the injector, and Y surface area at that "nail point" you mentioned. If the top of the piston has 10X the area of the bottom, and you hit it with 3000 psi High pressure oil, you are injecting at around 30000 psi.
Hi. Thank you very much for your advice and help in the videos. I am from Mongolia, Central Asia, far from the US. I own an Excursion 2004 V8 6.0L Powertroke. There aren't many trucks like mine here, so workshops here don't know well about it. Nowadays it has a problem and rough idles and stalls. i had it scanned and got some fault codes which are P0113, P0275, P1102. Can you help me and advice what i should do? Could Rev-x or Archoil help it?
Hey Ron great video. Thank you. Just a question if you did a relative compression test on a scope with a high amp clamp at battery and wanted a sync signal to identify #1 cylinder . I would think you would shut fuel down to prevent engine from starting and low amp clamp one of the four wires going to the # 1 injector. What would you do? Mark ferraro
Great video ron and explain it so well... looking at this IDS system which would you recommend purchase? I see the from the Rotunda site that this is not available for purchase? If from another source could u recommend?
i had one about 2-3 months ago where i said there was 3 bad injectors on that bank, but usally it was fine when warm, and emailed ron he say its probbally a failed copper/sealing washer, sure enough cylinder 7 failed washer causing other 2-3 to drop out
I love your videos. Very educational. I have a i5 puma duratorq which is throwing p1295 codes randomly. I suspect the piggyback injector chip, but also had all dash lights come on today which makes me think alternator or voltage regulation. Got any ideas?? Cheers mate
READ THIS....I had many of these symptoms even took it to my mechanic in town who is a pretty good guy untill I found out what the problem was....First I tried rev ex...My 2003 F-350 6.0 started running rough at idle and loss of power untill high RPM's. So i paid for a new injector, 50 miles later took it back with the SAME exact symptoms ...replaced FICM.....got it back and after 60 miles...started running rough again....SAME SYMPTOMS ......THEN TOOK it back and I was told it was another injector....so I took it home and moved each glow plug wire until I got it, you could hear the engine change...I just wiggled the wires....number 8 was the issue...so I too a piece of hard copper wire and taped it up then taped it to the glow plug wire and propped it up in the direction where it ran well. I did try to clean and spray the male and female connections and put the goo on them...I also looked at the female end of the plug and took a very small knife and bent the prongs in a little...when the mechanic checked the wires he used a probe and probley widened them so there was not a good connection...sounded EXACTLY like this and it was a simple fix the whole time that anyone can do.
I have checked the compression, and listened to the injector pre-cycle and it sounded good. The problem is when I crank it and it's about to turn over it goes blank for a second then sounds a little shaky, then it smoothes out. When in reverse it runs rough and occasionally it will run rough at idle (stop lights and such). I haven't checked FICM voltage as I had it replaced in '11 and buzz test sounds good. I don't know what it could be and your help would be appreciated! Thanks.
Hi Ron if you don't have test part can you use a multimeter to test the signal to the connector instead of a spare injector? Just wondering. Love your videos, I am a do it your self guy and I love working on my 6.0.
I have had very good success using an O-Scope on all injector control ckts via the BUZZ TEST. Checks both open/close solenoid valve coils, be aware FICM may have defective solenoid driver, only a scope will verify this condition.
@@raulc.suenaga2522 First off you will need a two channel scope which will support 100+ DCV. Back probe the "CONTROL" wires of the injector operating coils. Each injector has 2 opcoils. Accessibility is a reality. Rerun the BUZZ TEST and watch the wave patterns of the control valves, they should be quite symmetrical. The flat lined wave pattern will be your failed driver ckt within the IDM. Had to show this to a local dealer to prove the reman IDM had failed. IF you do as many of these as I do, Build a deparate harness to install between the IDM and the chassis harness with test fittings built right in for each injector. Am avail at wj893@bellsouth.net also.
I just worked on a 2003 f350 6.0 I found it to have a high pressure oil leak under the driver side valve cover, so I pulled the valve cover off and found that the oil rail was loose apon further inspection I found that the bolts had pulled the threads out of the head, have u ever seen this before
Hi, my name is Abraham and i have a question, i have a 203 diesel 350 6.0 and i have a problem when its cold it starts and turns off until the third click it stays on. What do you think is the problem?
I really liked this video. Especially the testing and diagnosis of the bad #7 injector. However, when determining whether it is wiring or a bad injector, absent having a spare injector on hand, do you have expected voltages (at the connector to the injector), amperage (in particular, a waveform of a good injector using a low amp probe) and expected resistance of a good injector for those of us utilizing a lab scope?
video unrelated question, what kind of upkeep is there to having the IDS program? yearly subscription charges, pay for each update (new model/year vehicles), etc?? I'd like to look into getting it myself for my diesel and so I can do my brothers pats keys on his ranger and our other fords if need ever arises, and I can try and find out what's going on with our windstar too; like mentioned it's expensive so I wanted to find out what I'd be looking at.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS , I HAVE A 04, I CHANGED THE HPOP AND EGR COOLER AND OIL COOLER , NO CODES , BUT HAVE HEARD OTHER 6.0 AND HEAR A STORNG INJECTOR CLACKLE WITH KOEO, MINE IS REAL WEAK?? ADVISE ??
6.0 '04 F250 died going down the road, will crank over but no start. Done leak test,I hear air,I've changed the plugs,my new dummy plugs are the same but the rear stand pipes are made different from my original. It's the 1/2 inch drive square head. Will these pipes fit my truck?I haven't changed the stand pipes but repressurized the system and still hear air. Could it be an injector leaking causing it to lose pressure? Thanks, simple guy trying to fix my truck.
i dont know if this a scanner issue or if you ever experience this one. when a retrieve engine code #4 injector contribution but when i did a power balance test different cylinder are down
Hello, I am getting "Check Engine" light on my Mercedes C Class 2011 model car, I scanned it via OBD2 scanner and it showed me P0266 cylinder2 Contribution/Balance Code and P0272 Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance Code , on searching on RU-vid I found videos that showed the reason for this error as even on clearing the scanned codes ,it comes again and the light also come again when we start the engine again after closing it once, so the videos showed that it's error with the injector wiring and need to be swapped amongst themselves, so how can I get rid of this issue?
My Ford 6.0 start and dies right away has new icp new ipr valve almost 1000psi when I crank so good pressure no leaks and new fuel filter I don’t know what else also Fcim above 48 volts
Any way to get the software to run the diagnostic tests? I was going to take it into a shop but i am one to do things myself to save myself some cost.. And now that i made a terrible decision to get a 6.0 i feel like the investment is worth it. Thanks
Driving or sitting on the side of the road. It's not the nozzles or that area that fails. I get emails daily from people. Plus all the local shops stopped trusting them. It's usually the upper seal or snap ring that fails. I've tried a bunch of brands and watched major rebuilders stop doing them.
+DieselTechRon So if I wanted/ needed to upgrade the injectors because of a larger turbo, what would you suggest?? I wanted to purchase 155cc nothing too extreme
+wellsmd1 for the custom tuning or matching parts. Search Jodi Tipton. He has a great reputation on tunes which would take knowledge of what works best together. Or Tadd at elite diesel.
I need some help bad. I have a 2006 f450 and its not boosting it has no power. with a load. what can i do to check it. I can't find no good diesel mechanic for a 6.0 in philly
Does anyone know what he meant by not resealing the injector or oil rail? All I am doing is replacing all 8 injectors and connecting the oil rail when done.
I was wondering the same thing. I pulled the fuel rail to replace the stand pipe and was wondering if I should replace the injector o rings and washer while I am there
I found out those 4 cups along the rail have o-rings behind them. You have to take those cups out and replace the o-ring "seals". You need a special socket to take them out and put the cups back on, torqured to 100 ft lbs.
Yes they sell a tool with seals to service them ford wants you to spend an arm and a leg and sell some a#$ to buy the whole oil rail. Just dont go too cheap from a quality aspect when choosing an aftermarket brand to go with. Alliant sells a kit everybody in the diesel world stands behind that brand haven't tried them myself yet but just look for quality.
@@james021188 I remember i bought one of those special sockets and it stripped. Ended up buying another one with the seals and it worked well. Can't remember which brand. Got it from XDP diesel.
Once my truck heats up I have a cylinder 6 and 8 contribution codes being thrown. Idles like hell because they're dumping fuel but runs fine over idle. Replaced injectors, any ideas?
Been a month since you posted. Did you do what he did in this video? Get results? I'm getting Cyl 8 Contribution code. Getting ready to do what he showed. I'm confident I can resolve this thanks to Ron.
I agree with some of the other people here that some of the data and information Ron discusses is in error, or slightly off base. For the most part, he provides very good information, but its a good idea to be wary of any information you are provided. For consistent near perfect advice I would have to recommend power stroke help over Ron.
99% of the time on 97 and newer if it wasn't driven to much you can drain the fuel. fill with diesel and it will be okay. I remove the hose on the out side of the pump and jump the fuel pump. collect it until it's 100% empty. if you don't have a jumper or a scanner to command it on. you can keep cycling your key in ten second intervals. in also usually do the filters. it gets more out and they were not made for gasoline.
I watched your video on the FICM. I followed it to a Tee. The voltage was good. The motor is still running quite and smoking like a train. I gave it a little gas on the pedal and it smoked like crazy and ran really rough. Am I looking at injectors at this point. I have reached my technical limit after checking the FICM. I have had the oil cooler and EGR deleted. Please advise. Thanks
As I stated below, my wife put regular gas in it. I drained all the gas out and filled it up with diesel fuel. However, it screwed something up because every other day it runs rough as hell. So...I'm waiting for it to drop dead again. I think the injectors are next.
Mike Walker sorry to hear that. I just put new heads on mine and studded the unit too I also put a new HPOP and oil cooler in mine. Cost me $3400 to do it all myself.
+Chris Groff I tried rev-x five times with good results on four of them. that's my best outcome by far. Nobody pays me. I've never spoke with anyone from rev-x and I don't receive product from rev-x. I make these videos for free to help. When companies give me product to try. I do. if the results are good, I share it. It's hard to tell before hand what's wear or stiction. no additive will help wear. I've tried all the major companies out there.
