Any professional that works on these engines needs to watch this video. Without a doubt, the most informative and educational video I've ever seen on a fuel system component.
Yet another well thought out presentation! Thanks so much! Having been in the European auto repair sector of the automotive industry I truly appreciate the effort put forth to make your videos ( never been to a domestic training course). If every RU-vid video had this much thought behind it our baseline knowledge level would be much higher. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for all the time you put into educating the rest of us on our trucks. You are to be commended for all your work. I haven't had fuel problems yet on my 03 (175,00 miles) but i do monitor it. It stays between 62-65 lbs usually. This makes me want to take the cover off the side of mine and clean it out. I do notice when I change my filters that the inside of my secondary filter bowl is always dirty. Makes me wonder why it is pretty much black on the walls of it. I buy all my fuel from a reputable truck stop in our area. Thanks again for sharing.
This makes the FSM look like an afterthought. Wow the detail explained in this is beyond what I could have ever expected. VERY nice work sir! I just acquired a clean 04 ccsb king ranch at 180k from my once mentor and good friend Seth Ketterer. May he rest in peace. He was the lead diesel tech at the first dealer we worked at for a decade here in Moab Utah. I've learned a great amount from him. His wife insisted I buy his beautiful rig, and now I have his truck and going through it to make sure any point of potential failure is handled proactively. Lots done already in two weeks, but this is top of the list for today. I'll be pulling and reconditioning it after watching. Videos like this deserve a like and subscription. You got that from me, and a comment for support. One of the best put together videos on any piece of truck technology on RU-vid period. This is award worthy. Thanks for taking the time to make this, and posting it up. Surely a help to all.
Thank you very much, George. I tend to put a lot of time into these, so they are not the typical YT "Hey look at me, this is what I've done". Over my career I got to know a few magazine writers, the good ones who go into detail. I've tried to follow that.
@@toomanytoys you're very good at what you do, and these are flat out invaluable to the 6.0 enthusiast. I really can't thank you enough for taking the crazy amount of time I know it takes to make these. Of all the diesel channels I tune into, this is by far my favorite.
I really appreciate your thoughtful, detailed breakdown of this pump. I recently bought a 2004 50k from original owner. Learning so much from your videos and few more highly knowledgeable folks like yourself.. Thank you so much. May lord always bless this country and people like yourself that share their knowledge. Oh Lord how lucky, blessed I am to be admitted to this great country.
Best and most thorough video on a critical component of the 6.0 diesel. You have boldly gone into detail that that few if any have gone before! Outstanding work! Thank you. Installing a fuel pressure gauge just moved to the top of my 2006 F-350 action list.
Have to say I knew mostly about how the hfcm works(from personally disassembling my own unit on my 6.4), but your in depth explainiton of all the details is the best video on here to date. 👍 Info worth it weight in gold to many dealing with issues . Great work!👊
Thanks for the help in understanding some of my fuel system on my Ford 6.0 engine I am relatively new to Diesel engines and trying to educate myself as much as I can. Your video is well done and has helped me very much... God bless and keep you...
Absolutely the most informative detailed video concerning the 98-04 6.0 powerstroke HCFM. The insert pamphlet that comes with the filters doesn't come close. What a difference it made I had a couple of things off replaced the pump didn't remove the filter when I installed the new pump it didn't line up with the teeth thereby semi crushing 1 side and the air weep hole wasn't at 12 o'clock so never fully purged the air causing hesitation and rough idle. Also had the little brass piece in the water separator installed backwards thereby not circulating the fuel and warming it. But the correction from this video woke my truck up unbelievably. Thanks Thanks
@@toomanytoys Thank You 4 taking the time to do these, really appreciate the in depth explanations of our 6.0's. Also I appreciate the part numbers and the racor pump# too.
Very nice video 👍 Very informative. I went through my trials with these pumps years ago, and I’d say you’re spot on. Especially the fuel pressure gauge recommendation, I’ve replaced a lot of fuel injectors due to a worn regulators for people. For half the cost of 1 injector you could save yourself a headache.
I would hope you see this , I want to learn all that I can an watched your entire video. the amount of knowledge in this video is amazing with such detail. I'm trying to look through everything that I can because my truck runs fine but at an incline loses power. its a 6.0 as well an really I want to know what to look for an this kind of knowledge makes it all worth it. I have subscribed to you!! please teach more especially about bench pressure testing the injectors an using a micrometer for the spool valve. I absolutely love diesels so much more better than gasoline. I never want to go back to gasoline. this knowledge is life changing.
Wow, thank you. I read all the comments, but it might take me a few days to get to it. I would post the question to Powerstroke.org or FTE to get a good discussion. Not that it is the issue, but every 6.0 needs to have a fuel pressure gauge. These injectors I leave alone. I have no issue with the older mechanical or pressure-controlled injectors, but the tolerance of operation of these needs to be very precise.
Thank you!!! I replaced the sending unit and pump, yet still my motor starves for fuel. It stays running long enough to drink the fuel in the bowl, then dies. I suspect that when I did the blue spring kit a few years back, I only replaced the spring. Going to buy the full kit and install under the assumption that my seals are leaking and not holding pressure. Thank you again for the level of details in your video, much appreciated.
Your welcome. If you don't find an issue with the regulator, I would first check to see if you have bubbles come into the fuel filter. You can always disconnect the filter input line, set up the clear hose, and let it pump into a container to check that. If you had the foot come apart, you might need to check the line from the tank to the HFCM for any debris. About a year ago on FTE, Rusty had that issue. Confirmed by using a 5gal can for the supply and returned to it, 3/8 and 5/16 hoses going to the HFCM. If you don't return to the can, the 5g gets pumped into the tank.
Thank you this is probably the best tutorial video I have seen so far of the 6.0 fuel system and I learn something when changing the lower fuel filter in the pump housing I always sprayed out the housing with carburetor cleaner and I pretty much thought I got everything clean now I see and realize I am leaving crap in the cavity for the water separation. In this business you have to learn something new everyday I went to school for auto and Diesel at Lincoln Technical Institute Philadelphia graduated in 1981 I was just 20 thanks to people like you I run a successful business for 40 years and you just taught a old dog a new trick you will not and cannot make it as a mechanic if you don't learn something new everyday
@@ayeyochico5008 Pull the fuse for the heater, and you can cut the wires going to the heater. Tape the ends, or put adhesive-lined heat shrink over the ends; it will seal itself. It's just as good and cheaper than buying a new sub-harness for the HFCM.
Thanks for the in depth information. Helping a friend with his 04 6.0 fuel issues,and this look to be the fix for that problem and will tell about fuel pressure gage being the f350 has 195k on it . Thanks again .
Thanks for all the detail, I've got my 2004, 250k miles and some horrible fuel conditions, kept getting water and debris in my fuel before finding that my filler tube aft of the axle had a rust hole in it. I'm thinking an overhaul and or pump replacement might be a good idea.
Great in depth video! My truck suddenly quit running today. The pump is still pumping, but will not fill up the secondary filter bowl. Instead, it fills it part way, and then starts blowing bubbles. When I turn the key off, the diesel drains completely back out of the bowl. Does this sound like a weak pump, or something within the HFCM? It was suggested that possible my intake line in the tank is broken?
If you have close to a 1/4 tank, we see a lot of the pickup feet in the tank disintegrating due to age. But HFCMs go away in the 225k to 250k, too, some sooner. The best way to tell is to get a can of diesel along with a 3/8 and 5/16 hose. Run the tank side hose into the fuel can and see if the HFCM works normally. Tank or pump tell. The tank side connections come off with a pinch; if fuel comes out, you can plug the line with one of the stepped caps from sealant tubes. Any of the o-rings or cord gaskets from the HFCM can also draw in the air; the drain plugs the easiest to check and replace.
I have an adjustable fuel pressure housing and blue spring update. I’m seeing 82 psi idle, 64-68 cruising, then WOT it’s 50 slowly tapering down to about 45
Answered over at FTE. "That's excessively high for idle; and weird that it would creep up. I would not be using that. Also, with that range of pressure variation, it seems like the system is volume-restricted. That could mean something with the adjustable regulator assembly, the HFCM, or debris in the tank clogging the uptake."
Thanks for all the information. Im having the strangest problem with my 6.0. I have a loss of power. I remove and replace the fuel filters and it runs great for a few days and then the problem reappears. The strange part is the filter are not dirty! I watched in hopes of finding a solution although im not sure i found one i learned alot. Thanks!
Thank you. If you do not have a fuel pressure gauge, you need to get one. It might help to sort out if there is an issue in the fuel delivery, but it's essential to know if the fuel pressure is low and hurting the injectors. The other thing to sort out problems is getting good monitoring equipment, and the best bang for the dollar is Forscan on a cell phone using an OBD adaptor to monitor conditions, and it's about the best code reader.
@@toomanytoys thanks for the advice! Im new to the 6.0 and will be adding fuel gauge to my truck very soon. Ficm voltage good ipr good hpop seems to be good. Ill be hooking up a fuel gauge maybe tomorrow if i can get an adapter together. Its very cold here now with a big snow storm brewing i will be using this truck for plowing. Hopefully i dont lose my injectors.
@@justinbarr5335 You'e Welcome. The other thing good to have is a support group. And as of right now, that is either FordTruckEnthusiasts or Powerstroke.org if you are not a member, with PS.org having more participants.
Awesome video. Just change that filter yesterday and a little rubber and metal thing came out of that. Just wondering if I get buy that pice by it himself??
Thanks. Not sure which of the "little rubber and metal thing" you speak of, but if you are talking about the back flow valve in the housing, no, you have to buy the entire assembly.
Good morning. I have enjoyed watching your videos. I recently removed and replaced fuel tank, sending unit, and HCFM pump motor. My problem is air lock. I have primed the upper filter housing and still no resolve. Any help would be appreciated.
James, if you had an issue in the tank with the foot coming apart, many people afterward had debris in the suction line that stopped or highly restricted the flow. Another issue can be the inlet connection to the HFCM, the quick connect on the nylon line not fully engaged, or even the quick connect at the top of the fuel tank. You could double-check if those are the issue by pulling off the lower inlet line from the tank to the HFCM and putting on a vinyl hose that comes from a diesel can. If the top filter then fills, you know you have a connection issue. I show some of that in my fuel tank video. Another thing that can cause a suction problem is the o-ring on the filter cap.
Thank You for your time to respond to me. I am greatful and indebted to you. I was able to get my 6.0 running thanks to your quick response today. In my prayers this evening.
I wish the fuel filters weren’t so expensive. Plus there are Chinese made counterfeits all over the internet. Also when you remove the cover you must plug all the fuel lines or the fuel can siphon out of the tank until your tank is empty.
DieselFilterOnline or RockAuto, either Motorcraft or Racor; Racor is the filter manufacturer that sells to Ford. If you are draining fuel from the tank, the anti-siphon valve (blue inside the filter area) is not working.
Could a clogged or dirty unit as shown account for long cold crank time? Once started the truck runs great, but crank time is excessive....literally 10 to 12 seconds at times
It may, but I would be looking at the ICP voltage (pressure) and IPR percentage to see if the HPO is coming up where it should. It wouldn't hurt to look at the engine rpm to see if it's at 150 or above too.
I know this is over a year old but I have a question. I bought an 03 F250 6.0 217,000. after about 2 months it started to buck and rough idle then die (Not at the same time). I have replaced the ICP, EGR Valve and the Valve that is on the turbo. My wife is at the point that she wants me to sell the truck because if this. could these issues be caused by the fuel pump or pressure regulator going out??? when it dies it starts right back up. Great Video by the way,..
The video may be older, but every week I try to answer and comments. Not getting fuel could be. Having a fuel pressure gauge on the 6.0L is imperative, not only for operation but low pressure and causes the injectors to fail. At 217K, some have had the HFCM fail, but at this timeframe, there have been issues of the fuel tank pickup foot degrading too, often with running issues at 1/4 tank. So I'd get a fuel pressure gauge, if not a borrow one from the auto parts stores to test (although it may not include the proper adaptor). And thanks for the compliment.
Thanks for excellent content, help me out, I recently swapped the 6.0 for a 5.9 Cummins. I was wondering can I leave this pump on but without the filter, since I won't be using the pump.
If you mean bolted in place that shouldn’t be an issue. The one goofy thing you may encounter is if you’re keeping the original PCM it’s looking for 12 V going to the pump or it sets a code. But I’m not sure if you’re using the original PCM for anything at all.
@@toomanytoys sorry, I meant I won't be using the pump, I just want fuel to pass through. But I don't want to be replacing filters there. So I want to remove the filter.
It will be too restrictive within the pump assembly to pass through, and there is a one way valve in the chamber that may also be an issue. And the big killer, you need the filter as it pushes open the inlet valve for fuel to get to the pump. I would do away with it.
great video, only had a diesel for a few years. I love your mod that moved the HFCM behind the transfer case. Was there any tricks on running the fuel lines, and electrical? should I run a new set of lines or just stub in from the current location. Also did you run into any impedance issues with the longer electrical. about to remove bed and derust and clean fuel tank anyway. Seems like now is the time for this.
With the bed off, this should be a breeze. I spiced in 1 gauge larger wires to extend the harness. That seems to take care of any issue. From the tank to the new location, I replaced the lines with fuel injection-rated hose. They will fit over the existing nipples on both ends. This would be an excellent time to replace the foot in the tank's pickup, At this point in time, they are disintegrating, and the two choices are a new Ford one or switching to a sump under the tank. Other aftermarket pickup feet do not hold up. I used the stainless line I removed tank to HFCM to increase the existing lines behind the transfer case. I used expensive Swageloc stainless union fittings to do that, but you can also use the 3/8 and 5/16 fuel injector hose to work as a union to splice those in. You can also use the hose itself, but that gets expensive for the fuel injection high-pressure hose.
@@toomanytoys This is great, I am working on parts now. What is the best way to find the right parts. I have put my vin in several ford OEM part sites and I can't seem to get my fuel tank to come up. I have 2003 F250 6.0l w/extended cab w/6.4' bed, it keeps pulling up the 38 gal for the 8' bed. trying to get the right sender base. Is it better to just go to dealer? Done that many times, that is pretty painful too.
@@toomanytoys Thanks, does the extended and crew have different size tanks. I only get about 25 gal into my tanks, but I did a VIN search and it says it is a 29 gal tank.
I replaced my filters and did the blue spring and now my secondary fuel bowl fills really slow and I am getting mainly air coming from the HFCM no matter how many times I turn the key on and off. I've taken the cap off the HFCM multiple times now. I've replaced the filter again and even replaced the cap just to make sure it wasn't cracked and not sealing. Fuel does drain each time I take the cap off so some fuel is in there. My thought at this point is the spring valve that blocks fuel from going into the HFCM from the tank is damaged. Have you seen this before? Is there a good way to test it without taking the HFCM off the truck? Is it repairable or can you buy the clip? Thanks for you help. I will be taking the HFCM off tomorrow. One other think is the fuel filter doesn't seem to snap into the pump like I've seen on some videos. The notch on the filter does catch on the body and is in the correct position. I used Motorcraft filters. Thanks in advance.
YT isn't great for back and forth, and I'm on Powerstroke.org and FordTruckEnthusiasts.com if you are there. The valve would not let air in. With the secondary cap off if you've confirmed the fill and bubbles, the first thing I would ask if you are around 1/4 tank full as the pickup in our trucks is starting to disintegrate, and some see the air and low pressure around 1/4 and below. If you took out the drain plug, I would check that o-ring, too. The only other place for air to pull in is the cover gasket, which usually only have an issue when the covers are removed.
For the videos, it's all nasal dependent (voice), trying to avoid surgery. For the motor, I don't progress until I have the video segment done, 'cause you don't realize how much I redo these videos and I'm not taking the motor apart again because I forgot something.
Hey Jack awesome video. I'm currently rebuilding a spare HCFM. Did you use regular fuel line and clamps when you relocated the module? Do you have a parts list to share? Thx. Ed
Ed, I used Gates Barricade fuel injection hose and just regular clamps. The hose is rated for diesel, and with a stiffer, was would not collapse on the tank to pump feed line. 3/8" for the supply side, 5/16" for the return to tank line. Being that it's proofed to over 200psi, it also can be used from the new location to the existing lines. There are adaptors to fit into the quick connects. I took the stainless lines from the tank to the original HFCM position and spiced them into the factory lines using Swagelok fittings. That is an expensive way to go, but I free Swagelok fittings.
@@toomanytoys Thanks Jack. I'll be ordering my racor pump by the weekend. Just pick up a spare at the junkyard. Going to take my time and replace everything. Alot cheaper too
@@eddylee587 why am I possibly missing here dude clearly says raycor makes wah brand including Ford?? Fomoco is ground down lol and are we there yet??? I mean r u there at all??? 🤣😂😂🤣.
Poor bastard....Ed that is and poor monotone guy? producer actor n props n ya u get it. The og sucked anyhow why relocate hfcm??? Find any old license plate and 4 sip ties??? N damnit poor Ed should I feel every need to illustrate four ties four plate holes lmffffao. Great vid bout perfect if ya ask me thanks again
One of the few who know about turning it CCW to feel the drop into the cut threads. Very important to do that on plastic parts with screws too. When you going to have the truck running again? We're waiting. :)
I learned that trick years ago as I started exploring how lawnmower engines worked, mom got po'd with me a few times. Guess it's second nature nowadays. Video reminded me that I turn left to go right.
I got a 2004 6.0 and I'm constantly getting the water in fuel light come on and the truck will stall but not die. Let off the pedal and it keeps going. I've replaced the entire hfcm unit and it's still happening any ideas where to look for chaffed wires? Or is there something else going on? I'm lost feel like I've tried everything
That's an unusual one. The first thing I would do is unplug the sensor connector at the HFCM on the off chance you have a bad sensor in the new HFCM. I have diagrams specific to the '03 year and depending on the build date of your truck, maybe the same. If you are a member of FTE or Powerstroke.org, post up a thread there where I can upload the diagrams.
I recently experienced low fuel pressure while accelerating approx 30-35psi but have 55-60 at idle or normal cruising speed. Fuel is aerated on the return line. I stuck the supply line in a fresh bucket of fuel with same results. Replace hfcm gained about 5 psi at idle but still drops on acceleration. Checked the blue spring upgrade and replaced it for the sake still same issue. Have you seen this before ?
In a post 2 days ago, Brennan had a similar issue. When you pulled from the bucket, assuming with a hose clamped down, did you still have aeration? Aeration would reduce the volume of fuel and cause a drop in pressure during high demand.
@@toomanytoys. Yes still had aeration on the discharge side of pump after putting a hose directly in container on suction side of pump. Suction side is clear coming from container but outlet is aerated. Installed new hfcm thinking it was the cause but still same results. I also took return line off and hooked up clear line and monitored it. It was aerated as well but if I capped with my thumb fuel would clear up On discharge side
You got a weird one. Are you returning to the container or the tank? While it is hard to imagine a new part has an issue, I would probably take electrical tape and wrap the seam of the filter cap and cover edge to see if there is any issue. Tape over the drain plug cavity might be a check, too, as that can be an air source if not tight or the o-ring is compromised. The design is supposed to release air from fuel, which goes to the secondary filter to be flipped back to the tank, so I would expect the possibility of some air, but hard to find, not what you are describing.
Its not that big of a concern. If it's from the check valve in the tank on the return side, you'd notice that when changing the HFCM filter and it keeps drining with more that 1/3 tank. It can also be from a damaged fuel pressure regulator plunger seal, that chould be checked.
What can cause the pump from building pressure? New fuel regulator, new pump ( regular housing), New filters and fuel tank draw sump is good, any ideas would help
So this was just the pump replaced, but not the entire HFCM? What brand and where did the pump come from? Had you pulled the cover and looked at the chambers? And what year truck?
@@toomanytoys its a 2005 f350 6.0. I used a delphi pump, I just realized I put no namer filters in, replaced tank filter, and new blue spring kit, I’m getting fuel to the bowl, but no pressure, is there something in the pump housing I need to look at? I still have zero pressure, only thing I haven’t done is jump the pump. I’m kinda scared to burn it up
@@jonsmith5460 I would disassemble the fuel pressure regulator you just put in to ensure it has the seal and is assembled correctly. The one issue with the sumps is they are more prone to the inlet holes getting blocked by any debris in the tank. Had you inspected the tank when you did the sump?
@@toomanytoys i drained it, cleaned it, replaced the screen, ( did not have the return filters) replaced with fresh diesel, no debris or junk at all. Is there a better priming method? Its weird, it ran great one day, thought the ficm wasnt any good, ( put in a used ficm), replaced the ficm, beautiful oil pressure, 950 psi. While cranking. All new injectors. Maybe 5 km on em. Turned the truck off, and hasnt farted since then, yes, sinc is good. Any ideas is better then no ideas, thanks
@@jonsmith5460 Here's a link to a troubleshooting list of what I made up for a video, just for reference. drive.google.com/file/d/1iAMi_l2fXnoqZMyEmAS9X5xi2LC5A4tV/view?usp=share_link I don't know if Delphi kept the same design as Racor. You said it was flowing, but no pressure. It should be self-priming, but it's possible to get into an air loop - but it's flowing. To manually prime, you would take the cap off the secondary filter and pour about a gallon of diesel into the secondary canister. When all else fails, replacing the pump under warranty would be the next step.
I benefited from your video on grounding and now this great video on the HFCM and regulator, thank you. I just installed a fuel gauge and maybe I shouldn't have, ignorance is bliss. My fuel gauge keeps my attention hovering around 42PSI at idle and low rpm's. As I put my foot in it, pressure rises to 50psi. While raising the idle in park, fuel stays put at 42-44 psi. which makes me think it's not a voltage issue. It only goes up under load. I have done the blue spring a few years back, but with no visibility from a gauge, who knows? I am redoing the blue spring again to find out. Any advice is appreciated.
Bill, Your injectors will be happier once you get it resolved. That's strange that it would go up with a higher demand for fuel. It operates as a constant volume circuit, bleeding off fuel for the injectors and reducing the return volume accordingly. Yours is doing the opposite under load. The regulator and spring are always a good place to start. Especially if it was not an official blue spring kit from a Ford dealer. I'm to the point where parts like that I only get from a dealer. I'm finishing up a video where I took my tank down to inspect the components and the tank. I refer to a story by Eric, who went through low fuel pressure issues. You might want to read the thread. I'll post a link. I would not dismiss voltage as it is something which is needed to be physically checked. We can have fuel pump relay issues, but several harness cross-connections under the master cylinder area have been corroded a few times. The best voltage check is with a safety pink through the pink/black stripe wire going to the pump of the HFCM and connecting a voltmeter to it. Afterward, liquid tape can be applied over the insulation punctures. The link: www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1629144-metal-shavings-in-hfcm-was-just-the-beginning.html
@@toomanytoys I need your help. I changed out the HFCM and did the Blue spring kit. I needed a harness from 3-2 connector since the pump connector broke coming off. I bought a quickie harness off Prime. After 10 or so key power cycles and never going above 20lbs, I noticed the dash lights flickering. the gauge wouldn't work properly. I pulled off the harness and wrang it out. Sure enough the pump wires were reversed from one connector to the other. I reversed the wires so they matched polarity with the original harness. I assume the pump was running backwards. Learned a lesson about not using OEM parts. The lights still flicker and stop when I remove the relay 302. PCM. Even with the harness not installed so the pump is not in the circuit.
@@billknight7442 Harness not connected to the HFCM or HFCM harness not connected to the main harness? I'd disconnect at the main harness and see what it does.
@@toomanytoys Fuel Pump Harness is out of the truck, I removed the PCM and the voltage is stable. But even with the harness removed, the voltage with studder as long as the PCM is connected. The reversed polarity might have smoked something in the PCM. I am trying to find that circuit I saw somewhere with the inertia switch through the PCM. I would like to know how you go about replacing the PCM. I would like to open it and locate the fuel pump area, but I understand that is not practical since its glued shut.
@@billknight7442See the next comment. The CJB also has a diode to protect the PCM, but lord only knows what happened here. A reversed fuel pump should only be a reversed direction pump without changing the circuits. It might depend on if other wires were switched around in that small harness.
That O-ring behind the Plunger seat, if I install it, causes the seat to sit way outside of the housing. it doesn't sit flush. Is this normal? Or should the plastic plunger 'seat' sit flush with the cast housing? I tried to use o-ring lube and push the seat into the housing but the o-ring doesn't allow it. I have an 04 (before the cast-in-place seat).
This is at the 33:42 mark, by the way. That o-ring on the right side of the plunger seat - if I try to install it, the plunger seat is sitting a full o-ring width outside of the housing. If I remove the o-ring, the plunger seat slides right into the housing (which looks 'right' to me, but there is no way of knowing if it is correct. The truck came with a blue-spring, and did NOT have an o-ring on this piece. When I replaced the blue-spring kit hunting for a fuel pressure issue, I didn't replace the o-ring.)
@@shawnqueeney336 I have not played with that version. My '03 replacement engine converted to the new design. They give other gaskets in the kit; some are for the Navistar application if you got the OE kit. I would see if any of the others are a better fit.
2 pumps, 2 Flukes,: 1 ohm. You may already know - you can have a little offset with many meters down this, so check what they read with the probes together.
I have been stalling as of lately, truck runs great, no loss of power or missing and then it will stall followed by 2-3 minutes of crank-no start and code 0231/0232. Wait 2-3 minutes and it starts up fine. It may stall again that day and it may take a week for it to happen again. I’ve tested all my relays, I’ve tested all fuses, I’ve tested power to the pump and to the inertia switch. Been in the diesel forums and most with this same issue point fingers at the fuel pump. Some say the pump should have +/- 100 ohms. My pump had 1.2ohms. I replaced it and forgot to test the new pump. I started it and banged on the passenger side kick panel hard enough to trip the inertia switch and then reset it. Restarted and truck runs normal, hasn’t stalled yet. This was a week ago. Your thoughts?
@@kennethbiretz4882 Those codes are for the voltage supply TO the pump, and the most likely cause is the embedded fuel pump relay in the CJB (fuse box) that you can't get to. It's soldered on one of the mainboards. To test, you have to look at the voltage under load when the issue occurs. So a straight pin in the orange/yellow wire at the inertia switch so you can attach your voltmeter and review the voltage when the issue occurs. There are a few companies that repair them as getting a new one from Ford is expensive. They are specific to the trim level and equipment in the vehicle. There is a work-a-round, but you better be damn good with wiring. I have plans of doing a video on the issue and dealing with it, but that's a good way off.
TooManyToys I changed the fuel pump and everything seemed ok until today. Truck stalled 7 times in a 10 minutes span. I managed to limp it home and immediately disconnected the batteries and started disassembly of the CJB. Sure enough, there are 2 small relays on the panel that are disfigured/discolored. Ordered a new panel from the dealership today.
If you are talking about the images at 34:36, those images came from Pete, and the problem part and the new part were both from a Ford dealer and how the seal was installed at the factory.
@toomanytoys outch had mine installed the other way for about a year on my 7.3 until I looked at the poppet career it has a 45 cut into it that matches up with the 45 on the seat.I you install it backwards like me there is nothing to guide the seat into the carrier.
After changing my filters from vehicle sitting for 2 years the vehicle ran great for a few miles but then ran like s*** after like no fuel pressure at all
Neal, the 6.0 can suffer like that for many reasons, not just fuel. With a partner, you could remove the secondary filter cap, have the other person turn the key to "wait to start," and check if the filter is filling up quickly. You have to also be quick to tell them to shut it off before the canister overfills. But having a fuel pressure gauge is really important with this engine, and so is having a helpful scan tool, Forscan, for $6 on a cell phone, and an OBD2 wifi adapter for about $35 is also essential so the operating conditions of the engine can be read, and codes read accurately. Going onto Powerstroke.Org or FTE can get you a lot of help. It may be as simple as the o-ring on the HFCM cap got damaged when it was installed or, with the truck's age, an issue with the fuel pickup foot in the tank. Both of those sites can also help set up a fuel pressure gauge and troubleshoot your issue.
