I'm looking at buying a single wheel one ton 4x4 with 43,000 miles & it's a 6.2 so i really appreciate this. Nothing is wrong with the truck i just wanted to make sure it stays that way
Thank you for watching. I was talking to a machine shop owner yesterday who had 6.2 trucks but now drives a Duramax truck. While looking at a 12 valve 6BT he is building for a customer I mentioned I was stuck in the low power 6.2/6.5 world. He said “No, you are stuck in the dependable no $5,000 surprise world. Stay in your world and be happy.”
My opinion is that the 60G glow plugs is the only one to use no matter what controller you have. Because they self limit and don’t swell up getting stuck inside the engine. The gray controller though was designed to use the 9G and 11G glow plugs from Delco. They heat up faster than the 60 G plugs. I have had 2 vehicles with the gray controller added by me running 60G plugs start every time down to 15°. Another diesel with the gray controller wouldn’t always start at 50°. I added a relay over ride switch to that truck and hold the 60G plugs on for a count of 12 if it has been more than 12 hours since it ran no matter the outside temperature. Each engine has a personality. I am convinced the gray controller with 60G glow plugs is the best long term solution for the 6.2 and 6.5 mechanically injected engines.
You are correct about the 9G glow plugs heating up faster. All of the non self limiting glow plugs will heat up faster than the 60G plugs. However, if a non self limiting glow plug is left on too long it could swell inside the pre cup. I have removed swollen 9G and Wellman plugs from engines like that. I don’t have any personal experience with the Bosch plugs though. Never removed one and never installed one. If they are self limiting, give them a try and let us know how they do.
What number Delco plugs did you put in? Only the 60G plugs are self limiting. All the rest don’t manually glow for more than 15 seconds. With the 60G glow plugs I normally use my manual override for just the first start of the day. 12 seconds when it is above 70°. 18 seconds when it is above 50°. Below 50° and I normally hold it down for 22-24 seconds. If your fast idle advance is working and your cold start advance inside the IP are both functional. Then all you need to do is turn on the ignition, push the throttle down slightly and then let go. Once the glow time is over it should start immediately and idle well. The time after first firing until about 30 seconds is really critical to have a functioning glow plug controller for what is called “after glow.” Even though the engine is running, it still is really cold. Selected glow plug glows of short duration keep it running and help all of the cylinders get running right. That is why I keep a glow plug controller on all of my trucks even though I use a manual override to get the first start. Us humans can’t do the after glow right as good as a controller. All of the above written has worked good for me down to 12° for me and my vehicles. I hope it will for you as well.
great video! question: the old 9G glow plugs were much quicker than the 60G’s…some people tell me Bosch GP’s heat quicker, etc…others say the tabs break off snd they are undependable… any words of wisdom
84 cucv I put a manual momentary switch in and ac delco plugs The truck says half pedal to full pedal depending on Temps. I hold button for 10-12 sec and just slight throttle and she lights. Any more it gets to much Fuel. ? Is how long is too long for plugs to be on when temp gets cold now getting into fall/winter
I have a 99 Suburban 6.5 and I'm chasing some glow plug issues. Plugs themselves (60G) are only a few years old with not a ton of miles. Recently this fall I noticed that when the wait to start light was on initially I wasn't hearing the typical buzz/rattle I always had from the relay on the engine. When it got colder it got really tough to start unless the block heater was on for a while. I noticed that after the engine would start or if you left the key on long enough the light would pulse/cycle a few times as normal, and the voltmeter would dip each time (same as it always did) indicating to me that the plugs are drawing power and the relay is doing "something," just not the initial wait to start warmup before cranking where I heard no noise and no voltmeter dip. I replaced the relay and got the same result, no change. What could be causing the relay not to heat the plugs initially at key on but then pulse them later? I haven't seen this particular issue brought up researching this online.
It reads like you might have some bad glow plugs. Or, wiring issues between the controller and glow plugs. Try Ohm testing the glow plugs. Here is a video about how to do that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U6rbU3FiB14.htmlsi=dA83IawJPeY6zxa6
Hey I have the old 82-84 6.2l glow plug module and relay on my k1500 . I want to replace the glow plug wiring harness from the module to the plugs. I have been looking online for a whole new replacement harness but all i can find is the 6.5. Do you know if 6.5 and 6.2 are the same or close enough that you can use on either. Cheers again Ants
Just make sure it is the gray 4 pin solenoid and plug. I guess I need to do a video about what each of the 4 small wires go and how to convert. I will get on that.
You said you replaced your 84 Suburban to the newer controller from the "Octopus." Can you give details on that? Where do the wires go from the eight to the four connecter? I have an 83 with the "Octopus" you mentioned and the price of the controller is just dumb. I'll do a manual button before I spend $200 on the controller. Thanks again. Your knowledge is very helpful.
Hi, does anyone know what that blue wire with what looks like a sensor connector on it is? I've checked forums, etc. and the TM wiring diagram only shows blue wire for the relay negative and to the Wait Light. The wire I'm talking about can be seen at the exact 2:00 minute mark above Tim's hand sort of standing above the rest of the wires. On my M1009, it is disconnected zip tied to the harness near the bulkhead. Anyway, appreciate the videos.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 Hi Tim, thanks for replying, appreciate your help; but I think you're talking about the light blue wire from the controller to the relay that grounds and energizes the relay. That's not the wire I'm talking about. Also, it is not the blue wire from the fuse block to the Wait light. The blue wire I'm having trouble finding info on does not seem to be in the TM diagrams (at least I can't identify it). The blue wire I'm talking about has sensor like connector on it (single connection with a rubber gasket) and I think it goes to the 4 pin connector in the cab. I see it in your video at 2:00 and at the end (have not seen it or even mentioned anywhere else). The truck starts and runs fine and this wire is unconnected in the engine bay as if on purpose. Don't mean to waste your time if I'm missing something obvious.
That depends on how the manual glow plug set up is wired in and the wiring of the truck. A stock GM truck has it so the glow plug light is powered by the power going down the same wires to it and the glow plugs. So, unless that wire is broken if the glow plugs are getting power, then the light should be on.
Gates brand is the best I have found. 7575 Gates XL 11A1460 is what my drivers side alternator belt says on it. 6TL was the original military battery size. You won’t find those today. Group 31 is the civilian equivalent. Just make sure you get a pair of batteries that each have at least 800 cold cranking amps.
I have an 1989 and have ran 2 new batteries down trying to get it to start. I have a skoolie. Seems when it did start no matter the temperature the glow plug light stayed on same amount of time. Any suggestions?
I don’t know what a Skoolie is. Anyway, if your glow plug light is coming on it seems your glow plugs could be bad. Watch this video about how to check them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U6rbU3FiB14.htmlsi=fTqdVjiVLwAFeo9t If you are not getting a glow plug light, then you need to check the connections to the glow plug controller. I will be posting a video today by coincidence about the wiring for the controller on your 1989.
Actually, I posted the video I was thinking of a few weeks ago that explains the glow plug controller wiring: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6wDj_yUQ9EE.htmlsi=ZyjOnbahAc9L78eD
I'm just wondering we're my plug in is on my Chevy express 6.5l if someone made a video on that they would be famous there's thousands of videos like this anyone know we're the plug in is at
What glow plug plug in are you looking for? Or, do you mean the 110 volt wall plug cord to keep the engine warm at night? If so, the heater element will be in one of the freeze plug holes in the block. Not all vehicles came with the heater installed. It was an option from the factory. The 110 volt plug wire could also have been broken or removed at some time in the past as well. I have a 6.5 that has the element, but no wire attached.
@@timsteachablemoments1786 if mine does I can't find it mine doesn't start under 50 degree's I have a schoolie bus with the 6.5L has been well maintained used to start up eventually now nothing it def has something to do with it being cold cause runs and starts fine after it's been running but leave it sit for a few days and goodluck I have two brand new batteries and already warm them down have them charging overnight to try again tomorrow
