That was really nice of Brinks to think of the customer who might forget their combo, and provide huge wrench gripping surfaces to simply force it open instead.
I find it enjoyable that LPL has such a consistent method of making videos. The only way you can tell it's an old video is by the quality of the sound gear. A+
What a crappy design. They actually put ridges that make it easier to grab with pliers. Brute force twist attacks like you did, should have been tested at the factory. Thanks for showing us this design flaw.
I like this lock holding device for torture testing better than a vice. It would be more realistic in the field. I am glad you are implementing it in your videos.
Imagine getting interrogated by LPL ... "Ok, he gave us some good information, but I think there's more than we can extract from him... So let's head down to the garage and see what we can find"
A lot of American market locks are built in the same Chinese factory, just with different brand etchings or stampings on them. It's sad really. The more expensive the lock is, the more QC it undergoes at the lock making factory. QC on these cheap locks you can buy at the hardware store are next to none and are flimsy.
Rumor has it they are developing their own, self proclaimed tool grade, case hardened peanut butter for their lock bodies. Won't Master lock be jealous.
@@scootergeorge9576 Really!? I heard that they were working on a “self-decoding/self-picking/self-breaking” lock that activates when you say “Lock Picking Layer.” But I also heard that it’s a top-secret project, so Shhh! 🤐
I love when LPL posts these lock entry exploits because most of the time im shocked to see how easy it is to open something designed and sold to us to keep others out. That exploit took half the time as wheeling in the correct combination. Keep these great videos coming!
Hi Harry, So true regarding safes and safe bolt control handles. One particular Australian made Chubb safe, the high security "Isolator", when locked, the spoked bolt control handle free wheeled. No comparison to the disc padlock with the small "handle" of course, but your analogy was the same, I'm sure, as you said, the little lever would break, leaving the padlock still locked. Regards, Brian.
I'd like to see an autopsy on that lock. It looks like maybe you just popped the sidebar out of position, which is why it won't close back up. I wonder if you torqued it the other way if it would pop back in, which would be even worse as it wouldn't be immediately apparent that the lock has been forced. That said though, in my experience Brinks locks are about on par with Master locks. Just like Master, I wouldn't trust them to lock up a port-a-potty.
I'm wondering if it'll lock again if you dial in the combination properly. Like if it's just popped past the locking point, rather than breaking it forever. But also yes on the autopsy.
As primitive and brutal as it seems, in the Middle Ages there were established protocols in torture to extract confessions. The first stage was "examination of intention" also known as "showing the instruments", which was often sufficient.
WoW! I just got one of these locks too. Thanks for the lesson. Seems I'm better off with the key version discus lock. It takes a lil bit longer to pic. Very informative, and helpfull video. Thanks
I've rewatching some of these older videos, I think this is an easy design fix for "Brinks" ... just fill in the die that casts the part that the channel locks held ... to creat two MUCH smaller protrusions.
I'm learning that calling a *plumber* might be a lot cheaper and easier than calling a locksmith... at least to get in; replacing the lock - maybe not so good.
What I would do to fix this lock is change how the lock actually locks. Rather than the combination mechanism *disengaging* from the lock body, the combination mechanism would **engage** the locking mechanism only when a correct code was given. Otherwise, it would just spin freely, held in place only by the bearing surfaces that keep it from rattling out of the lock body. Not only would it prevent this attack from working, but it would also ensure that the lock wasn't irreparably damaged by someone trying a brute force attack like this.
Slide a screwdriver shaft diagnoly between the two edges and flush with the dial face and twist it that way. I suspect it will provide enough torque to fail the lock, but a screwdriver is easier to carry around than channel locks. Nice video.
I'd think they did test it, and considered it fair game. They looked at the chance of losing a few customers, versus the hundreds of thousands of locks sold, and decided it was well within acceptable margin of risk.
I formerly used this lock for my bicycle lock chain. And I think with the loose extra chain, it would be harder to pull this off because it would twist all over. But not impossible.
commando25101 I’ve picked that style padlock before - Uhaul units use them. What usually works for me is over lift the pins, let up tension to drop in place - then use lifter pick to get the binding pins. Heavy tension.
Thank you for pointing out how manufacturers "name" a lock which implies strength, security and fortitude. But when out to a simple real world test just crumble and fail easily...
Looks like Brinks saw your posting. I tried your technique today and the mechanism broke without opening the lock. Now I have a lock on a U-Haul storage box that is inaccessible. Should have called a locksmith. Not sure they can help me now.
For the time involved, I'd go with the keyed version, and did, just yesterday. I felt like I didn't trust the longevity of the combination mechanism, but this video gave me a completely different reason not to trust the lock.
Ran across one Saturday in a basement and there was no way to cut the clasp. It was connected to some kind of shield that was mounted to the door. I just went outside and unbolted it. It was like they were more worried about keeping people in than out.
I wonder how many lock designers had to look for a new job after this guy drops a video? Everyone evolved in bringing that lock to market should be in their bosses office. And if I owned one I'd be pissed.
Not a one. All this stuff is tested before market. The company is not ignorant, just willing to risk your valuables for their profit. This goes for almost every bypass, defeat and easy pick shown here and other picking channels. Companies selling cheap locks, surge protectors, anything supposed to keep your valuables safe, don't put a monetary guarantee on the package because they know their product is fallible and are not willing to risk THEIR money.
The point was not having the lock itself fail and thousands of dollars of valuables stolen because of a poorly-designed $15 lock. If thieves try to break into my storage place and fail, it wouldn't bother me at all to destroy the rest of the lock to replace it. Either way, I'm rather comforted by my neighbor having a Master 141 on their space, as any thieves will be better served by twisting that flimsy thing (or the many similar ones I saw) clean off. I went with a keyed disc lock, which doesn't have this failure and would be considerably more work to defeat.
So I did this technique at my unit and I'm still here because the whole mechanism of the dial broke and the d*** like the bolt part whatever that is that slides in-and-out to lock it won't move so what did I do wrong I need help
I noticed that you used the WordLock in this video but I don't see any other videos highlighting that lock specifically. Would you consider making a WrodLock video? Thanks
What I mean is the combination center part the round part just spins freely so I really busted it and I don't know what to do now because I can't get it to open
![[679] Using Pliers to Open a Brinks Combination Disc Padlock (Model 663-80051)](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
